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L130 - Sudden no crank, no headlights

#1

S

Spectre332

Mower started and ran fine last week. 2 days ago I tried starting it again and absolutely nothing. No crank.. not even a click.. and no headlights. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4V. Fuse checked good. Replaced ignition switch but no dice. Used a screwdriver on the two posts on the solenoid with the ignition in the run position and it sparked like crazy so it’s definitely getting juice.

I can’t figure out how the solenoid is getting juice but won’t crank… and how no headlights ties into all of it.

Ideas? Trying not to throw a bunch of money at parts that aren’t bad…


#2

sgkent

sgkent

I'd start by finding a schematic for the wiring and posting it here. Anyone who doesn't have one on hand won't be able to assist you much. And even most of those with one won't help you without a model number of the mower, and serial number of the mower. Maybe even year too.


#3

M

mechanic mark

See Service Electrical then Fuse.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/827817975235190314/


#4

StarTech

StarTech

First you going to need a cheap VOM to start testing. A screw driver is not going to cut it.

And as for the starter solenoid sparking across the two large terminals that is a separate non fused 100+ amp circuit. That solenoid (relay) is a four post version with voltage provide through the ignition switch, PTO switch (which must in the off position) and brake switch (brake pedal must be depressed). But with no lights in position one of the ignition switch (lights don't in position 2 or the starting position) it kinda pointing to a grounding issue.


#5

StarTech

StarTech

Here is the closest wiring schematic I got.
1681969002314.png


#6

S

Spectre332

StarTech said:
First you going to need a cheap VOM to start testing. A screw driver is not going to cut it.

And as for the starter solenoid sparking across the two large terminals that is a separate non fused 100+ amp circuit. That solenoid (relay) is a four post version with voltage provide through the ignition switch, PTO switch (which must in the off position) and brake switch (brake pedal must be depressed). But with no lights in position one of the ignition switch (lights don't in position 2 or the starting position) it kinda pointing to a grounding issue.
Click to expand...

interesting. I guess I can check all ground leads and see if anything is loose, corroded, broken. If it just wouldn’t crank, that’d be one thing.. but the headlights not coming on is what is throwing a real wrench in troubleshooting the underlying issue, for sure.


#7

B

bertsmobile1

Fuse might be fine but fuse holder could be stuffed
pull the plug off the back of the key switch and check for voltage at the B terminal


#8

sgkent

sgkent

turn the headlights on, use a VOM to see if you have voltage at the headlights. One side to battery negative terminal and one to the lights. If yes then you have a bad ground. If no then you have a problem feeding the ignition switch or light switch.


#9

S

slomo

Pull the spark plugs out. Now try electric starting mode. Let's see if she is hydro locked up.

12.4V at rest means the battery could use a charge. Need to run the engine at full revs, all the time. More reasons than this to do it. I would keep her on a Battery Tender.


#10

S

Spectre332

sgkent said:
turn the headlights on, use a VOM to see if you have voltage at the headlights. One side to battery negative terminal and one to the lights. If yes then you have a bad ground. If no then you have a problem feeding the ignition switch or light switch.
Click to expand...
I'll give this a try. Hopefully doing so will at least narrow down the problem.


#11

S

Spectre332

slomo said:
Pull the spark plugs out. Now try electric starting mode. Let's see if she is hydro locked up.

12.4V at rest means the battery could use a charge. Need to run the engine at full revs, all the time. More reasons than this to do it. I would keep her on a Battery Tender.
Click to expand...
I can try... I mean.. at this point I'll try nearly anything. Though I don't thank that's going to be what the problem is... specifically because when I turn the key, I don't even get a click like you normally get when the solenoid engages the starter, so the starter isn't even attempting to turn the motor.


#12

S

slomo

Spectre332 said:
I can try... I mean.. at this point I'll try nearly anything. Though I don't thank that's going to be what the problem is... specifically because when I turn the key, I don't even get a click like you normally get when the solenoid engages the starter, so the starter isn't even attempting to turn the motor.
Click to expand...
I hear what you are saying. Wondering if the needle and seat got you hydro-locked?

Plug/s out of the engine can prove possibly if the starter is good. Much easier to turn over.

Oil level on the FULL mark? Not over, not under?

From what you are saying, sounds electrical.


#13

S

Spectre332

slomo said:
I hear what you are saying. Wondering if the needle and seat got you hydro-locked?

Plug/s out of the engine can prove possibly if the starter is good. Much easier to turn over.

Oil level on the FULL mark? Not over, not under?

From what you are saying, sounds electrical.
Click to expand...
Actually now that I think about it... I know the starter is good because when I used a screwdriver between the two solenoid terminals, it did crank the engine. It almost has to be electrical... which is my least favorite thing to troubleshoot. :p


#14

sgkent

sgkent

Spectre332 said:
I'll give this a try. Hopefully doing so will at least narrow down the problem.
Click to expand...
also just for giggles I would measure battery voltage with the lights on but it sounds like it will be Ok. Maybe a tad bit low but enough to turn the lights on.


#15

S

SeniorCitizen

No current is getting to the solenoid via the small solenoid wire to make it shift and connect the 2 large cables . Run a test wire from the battery positive to that small terminal on he solenoid to determine if it will crank .


#16

F

Freddie21

Even at 12.4v, the head lights should work, unless this is a unit that runs off alt and engine must be running. Sounds as if no 12v to the ign switch.


#17

Z

Zedo

Spectre332 said:
I can try... I mean.. at this point I'll try nearly anything. Though I don't thank that's going to be what the problem is... specifically because when I turn the key, I don't even get a click like you normally get when the solenoid engages the starter, so the starter isn't even attempting to turn the motor.
Click to expand...
In my experience over the years , ( cars, trucks ,etc ) you might have the recommended voltage at the battery, ( 12+ volts ) doesnt meant the battery is good, a load tester would tell you if the battery is bad, you might have the voltage there but not the amps to crank over the engine. I always put a battery maintainer on the battery over the winter months, but once spring arrives it kicks right over, however if you used it already, I'd say the battery is shot and cant be brought back to life but you can try to charge it up, A load tester will tell you right away if it's bad or good.


#18

C

CLStout

Could the solenoid be bad, or one of the safety switches be bad?


#19

The Maintenance Guy

The Maintenance Guy

Spectre332 said:
Mower started and ran fine last week. 2 days ago I tried starting it again and absolutely nothing. No crank.. not even a click.. and no headlights. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4V. Fuse checked good. Replaced ignition switch but no dice. Used a screwdriver on the two posts on the solenoid with the ignition in the run position and it sparked like crazy so it’s definitely getting juice.

I can’t figure out how the solenoid is getting juice but won’t crank… and how no headlights ties into all of it.

Ideas? Trying not to throw a bunch of money at parts that aren’t bad…
Click to expand...
Probably, or obviously, a short of some kind. I had a similar problem with my Yard Man Tractor. After replacing every component, solenoid, starter, ignition switch, Neutral safety switch (you may want to check this) it turned out to be a corroded fuse holder. Sometimes it made contact, sometimes not. Go over everything carefully. Maybe try hot wiring the starter directly to the battery to see if it cranks over. If it does, it's somewhere in the wiring between the two. Good luck.


#20

Z

Zedo

CLStout said:
Could the solenoid be bad, or one of the safety switches be bad?
Click to expand...
The poster claims he has no lights. the solenoid and safety switch has nothing to do with the lights.


#21

E

esemilio

Zedo said:
The poster claims he has no lights. the solenoid and safety switch has nothing to do with the lights.
Click to expand...
It is most priblably a safety switch. Check the seat switch first


#22

B

bertsmobile1

esemilio said:
It is most priblably a safety switch. Check the seat switch first
Click to expand...
No lights has to be a fuse or power supply wire broken


#23

G

Gord Baker

There is a rectangular connector very near the Ignition switch. Press safety latch and pull apart. Check for green crustys and spray with Zep Battery Care. REPLACE that fuse even though it looked good. A battery can check for 12VDC but have no Amps. Rare but it happens. Possibly your ignition switch has failed. Can you rotate the engine by hand? Basics first.


#24

C

CLStout

Zedo said:
The poster claims he has no lights. the solenoid and safety switch has nothing to do with the lights.
Click to expand...
I know my tractor's lights won't work if one of the safety switches isn't grounded. There's no power to the ignition switch, and therefore no power to the lights.


#25

L

lbrac

Try removing the battery cable connections on both battery terminals and clean them well. I've experienced similar symptoms due to corrosion between the cable connector and the battery post (or solenoid, or ground). If this happens, its possible nothing electrical works: starter, lights, etc. It can start and operate fine one moment; then the next time, nothing. If you have a voltmeter, compare the voltage measuring between the battery posts, then from the cable connector to the other connector, without touching the battery post. Good luck.


#26

B

bertsmobile1

OK,
I ahave tried to stay out of this but too much wrong information is flying around
So to start with there is nothing in the light circuit in a JD L130 that prevents the loghts working other than the key switch or the fuse
NO SAFETY SWICHES IN THE CIRCUIT AT ALL
see Diagram below
L130 lights.jpg

From the battery to the solenoid to the voltage rectifier through the key switch then to ground via the light globes

So no lights = bad switch bad battery cables or bad fuse
To test the fuse, pull the plug off the back of the key switch and check for battery voltage on both the red wiren and the Yellow /white wire , both to Ground wire (black not shown in this diagram ) and to the battery negative post .

The electrical section of the JD technical manual ( which you can buy on line from JD ) is over 100 pages long & I have no intention of rewriting all in the post.
So do the above tests and get back with the results for further instruction.


#27

B

bertsmobile1

CLStout said:
Could the solenoid be bad, or one of the safety switches be bad?
Click to expand...
NO


#28

B

bertsmobile1

esemilio said:
It is most priblably a safety switch. Check the seat switch first
Click to expand...
Seat switch has nothing to do with it unless the mower has been watching too many you tube videos posted by idiots .


#29

F

fatback

I had a similar issue, it was a high resistance to battery ground, from negative battery cable to body of mower, looking at this ground appeared okay, but removed it and wirier brushed it, reattached and problem was fixed.


#30

StarTech

StarTech

What a lot users don't understand. It is better to have someone that knows what they are doing to do the work then to be guessing at the problem which can be both frustrating and expensive.

I just got in a Hustler Super Z that the owner has change out the voltage regulator because the battery kept discharging. Well someone had been working on the engine beside me as the engine shroud is installed incorrectly. The owner probably changed out a working voltage regulator just because someone removed the ground strap. $85 voltage regulator vs a $5 strap. And he still had the same problem so it is in my shop now awaiting a deck belt but the engine is now charging the battery.

Plus he installed the wrong regulator for the CV740, he has spent $80 when the replacement was only $25. Boy did the dealer seen him coming.


#31

sgkent

sgkent

the OP is MIA on reporting since 4/21/2023.


#32

B

bertsmobile1

fatback said:
I had a similar issue, it was a high resistance to battery ground, from negative battery cable to body of mower, looking at this ground appeared okay, but removed it and wirier brushed it, reattached and problem was fixed.
Click to expand...
Yes. very common on older mowers.
Water wicks into the batery cables and eatsthe copper.
Ohm meters will read good , volt meters will read good but no current will pass down the cable .


#33

S

SamB

bertsmobile1 said:
Yes. very common on older mowers.
Water wicks into the batery cables and eatsthe copper.
Ohm meters will read good , volt meters will read good but no current will pass down the cable .
Click to expand...
This has been my experience in the past also. The sudden demand on the corroded cables opens the connection and everything is dead. Clean or replace the cables before you do anything else.


#34

B

bertsmobile1

I diagnose this by using jumper cables to bypass the battery cables


#35

B

boatmoter

Spectre332 said:
Mower started and ran fine last week. 2 days ago I tried starting it again and absolutely nothing. No crank.. not even a click.. and no headlights. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4V. Fuse checked good. Replaced ignition switch but no dice. Used a screwdriver on the two posts on the solenoid with the ignition in the run position and it sparked like crazy so it’s definitely getting juice.

I can’t figure out how the solenoid is getting juice but won’t crank… and how no headlights ties into all of it.

Ideas? Trying not to throw a bunch of money at parts that aren’t bad…
Click to expand...
check fusible link at starter ,pull on it to see if it stretches,if it does,it's blown, the fusible link works all accessories and will not start the engine but the main battery cables will still get voltage at the starter but nothing else will work


#36

T

tempforce

check the ign switch for voltage into the switch. turn switch on, check for voltage out of the switch. turn on lights, if voltage and no lights, may have broken wire or bad switch. if lights, check for power to coil. if power, hold tester to switch to starter relay or at relay turn switch to start, check + ign term while holding switch in start position. if no voltage, replace switch.


#37

B

boatmoter

Spectre332 said:
Mower started and ran fine last week. 2 days ago I tried starting it again and absolutely nothing. No crank.. not even a click.. and no headlights. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4V. Fuse checked good. Replaced ignition switch but no dice. Used a screwdriver on the two posts on the solenoid with the ignition in the run position and it sparked like crazy so it’s definitely getting juice.

I can’t figure out how the solenoid is getting juice but won’t crank… and how no headlights ties into all of it.

Ideas? Trying not to throw a bunch of money at parts that aren’t bad…
Click to expand...
check fusible link at starter ,pull on it to see if it stretches,if it does,it's blown
Spectre332 said:
Mower started and ran fine last week. 2 days ago I tried starting it again and absolutely nothing. No crank.. not even a click.. and no headlights. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4V. Fuse checked good. Replaced ignition switch but no dice. Used a screwdriver on the two posts on the solenoid with the ignition in the run position and it sparked like crazy so it’s definitely getting juice.

I can’t figure out how the solenoid is getting juice but won’t crank… and how no headlights ties into all of it.

Ideas? Trying not to throw a bunch of money at parts that aren’t bad…
Click to expand...
use a test light or volt meter and probe the B on the back of your ignition switch,it should have power there, but ground your test light to the engine block or starter mounting bolt to check engine ground at same time,if you do not have voltage,use test light to check both sides of the fuse F1 attached to the red wire


#38

B

bertsmobile1

Do yourself a big favour and buy the JD technical manual for your mower.
I know this is against all US based religions but after you have finished mowing your yard with your repaired mower , go mow the Churches lawn for absolution from your sins


#39

S

Spectre332

FYI: figured out the issue. The positive battery cable’s ear at the terminal was half broken, causing poor connection and ultimately (so it appears) arching (and melting) at one of the plastic connectors for the mower. While trying to figure out the issue, I touched the connector and it cranked off the key. Fiddled with it more and the problem went away when that connector was in a certain position.
Needless to say, new cable on order so once replaced, we should be good to go.

Attachments





#40

S

SamB

Spectre332 said:
FYI: figured out the issue. The positive battery cable’s ear at the terminal was half broken, causing poor connection and ultimately (so it appears) arching (and melting) at one of the plastic connectors for the mower. While trying to figure out the issue, I touched the connector and it cranked off the key. Fiddled with it more and the problem went away when that connector was in a certain position.
Needless to say, new cable on order so once replaced, we should be good to go.
Click to expand...
Always check the cables first before throwing parts at an "everything is dead" issue. OEM battery cables are not the best quality. Checking connections and cables will almost always be the culprit. Not always, but the place to start. I solder the eyelet terminals on my mower cables, I then apply a sleeve of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to seal the eyelet to insulation joint Simply crimping the end on simply doesn't hold up in the real world of lawnmowers.


#41

B

bertsmobile1

FWIW
when I fit new cables I coat the ends liberally with liquid electrical tape to seal between the cable , the lug & the insulation
No water = no corrosion
Same story when I fit the battery
I use a long bolt so it pokes out anout 3/4 " past the nut then coat everything other than the end of the bolt with liquid electrical tape
Same story, no misture where different metals touch = no corrosion


#42

StarTech

StarTech

SamB said:
Simply crimping (mashing) the end on simply doesn't hold up in the real world of lawnmowers.
Click to expand...
That is why I used a hydraulic crimper for cable lugs and a ratchet open barrel crimper for most other electrical terminal crimps


#43

C

CLStout

Dude, why are you yelling at me?

bertsmobile1 said:
NO
Click to expand...


#44

B

bertsmobile1

To get your attention
Because you are not listening to what those who actually know are trying to tell you and paying atention to blithering idiots regurgitating trash they got off Face Book


#45

S

SamB

bertsmobile1 said:
Yes. very common on older mowers.
Water wicks into the batery cables and eatsthe copper.
Ohm meters will read good , volt meters will read good but no current will pass down the cable .
Click to expand...
It doesn't need to be an older mower, it can be one that gets hosed down after every mow.


#46

C

CLStout

bertsmobile1 said:
To get your attention
Because you are not listening to what those who actually know are trying to tell you and paying atention to blithering idiots regurgitating trash they got off Face Book
Click to expand...
Hey, I just made a suggestion. I may not be a mechanic, but I don't even have a Facebook account.


#47

B

bertsmobile1

CLStout said:
Hey, I just made a suggestion. I may not be a mechanic, but I don't even have a Facebook account.
Click to expand...
Trying to help people is a good & noble thing to do
lots of suggestions to help people is also good and very welcome
Bad advice from people who have no idea about mower wiring is not appreciated as it confuses the original help seeker and is very counter productive then those who do know have to explain why the bad advice is wrong which makes fixing problems even more difficult.
For some strange reason urban myths circulate that the seat switch is the cause of every electrical problem and must be bypassed .
Not a single mower that has ever been made runs the battery recharge wire through the seat switch
The seat switch's sole function is to prove that there is an operator present so it is safe for the blades to turn on or the parking brake to turn off
So it is only in 2 circuits , the PTO circuit & the ignition circuit .
On a very few mowers that use ignition relays it may also prevent engine cranking but to date I have only come across one wired like that .

Sorry if you found offense but what gets uploaded to the web lasts forever and gets accessed an unlimited amount of time so it has to be correct .
We all make mistakes & have brain farts, I definately do but I admit mine then go back & correct them
And if I do not know or am ot sure then I either do not post or make it clear that I am not 100% certain.
In the case of this thread, there were plenty of people who seemed to be giving good advice so originally I bypassed it till it got to 3 pages when because it should have been solved in 1 page or less I jumped in to see what was going wrong when I came across you bad incorrect post that needed to be countered swiftly & forceably lest others see it and get lead astray.


#48

C

CLStout

bertsmobile1 said:
Trying to help people is a good & noble thing to do
lots of suggestions to help people is also good and very welcome
Bad advice from people who have no idea about mower wiring is not appreciated as it confuses the original help seeker and is very counter productive then those who do know have to explain why the bad advice is wrong which makes fixing problems even more difficult.
For some strange reason urban myths circulate that the seat switch is the cause of every electrical problem and must be bypassed .
Not a single mower that has ever been made runs the battery recharge wire through the seat switch
The seat switch's sole function is to prove that there is an operator present so it is safe for the blades to turn on or the parking brake to turn off
So it is only in 2 circuits , the PTO circuit & the ignition circuit .
On a very few mowers that use ignition relays it may also prevent engine cranking but to date I have only come across one wired like that .

Sorry if you found offense but what gets uploaded to the web lasts forever and gets accessed an unlimited amount of time so it has to be correct .
We all make mistakes & have brain farts, I definately do but I admit mine then go back & correct them
And if I do not know or am ot sure then I either do not post or make it clear that I am not 100% certain.
In the case of this thread, there were plenty of people who seemed to be giving good advice so originally I bypassed it till it got to 3 pages when because it should have been solved in 1 page or less I jumped in to see what was going wrong when I came across you bad incorrect post that needed to be countered swiftly & forceably lest others see it and get lead astray.
Click to expand...
Bert, I'm not going to argue with you about this. I merely made a suggestion on what might be wrong. In fact, I didn't mention the seat switch. I did mention a safety switch, but (at least on my mower) there's a few switches. If there's no power to the ignition switch, there's no power to the lights. That's apparently the way mine is wired. Hence why I made the suggestion. And, that's all it was. And if you didn't notice, I put it in the form of a question, leaving it open to those who are the experts. It certainly wasn't meant to provoke anyone, just trying to give the OP something to think about.
I don't know if someone peed on your Vegemite or you're just having a bad day. I do most of the repairs on my vehicles, including my mower. I consider myself mechanically inclined, and if I don't know how to make the repair, I either study on it, or it goes to somewhere that has the expertise to do the repair. I am intelligent enough to recognize what's over my head. With hourly labor rates what they are these days, and me being on a fixed income, I have to learn how to do a lot of repairs myself.
Have a good evening.


#49

B

bertsmobile1

You might like to double check that
No safety switches AFAIK do anything other than turn off the engine or blades or prevent the engine cranking.
None of them interupt the light circuit as all of the wiring dagram posted clearly showed.
In fact there is nothing betwwen the battery & the key switch other than a fuse and goes for every mower .
The OP said "not even lights " which suggests that he has battery powered lights which again the wiring diagram confirms .
Again no safety switches between the battery & the lights
In the bulk of mowers all of the safety switches are ground switches ( yes there are a few exceptions )
The cranking circuit on some does have power running through them but again not connected to the lights .
SO even without having the actual mower diagram in front of me I know there has to be a problem between the battery and the mower so it is either the power feed to the key switch or no ground .
Mark posted a wiring diagram in post # 2
Star followed up with another in post # 4
So either you did not read them or did not understand them
Spectre's posts were a bit off the mark, but double checking for a hydro lock would not hurt and in a lot of cases , a "no crank" is because of a hydro lock or ACR failure
SGKENT , Senior, Freddie & Zedo all made good posts
Then your post , solenoid , possible safetys absolutely not
TMG followed up and Zedo refuted the safetys as he should have done
Followed by esemilio who again brought up safety switches and added the seat switch to the totally wrong information
I refuted that post,
Gord made a good suggstion
Then you followed up again with garbage about safety switches on your mower which is not the OP's mower & I would like to know what that is just in case there is an exception that I am unaware of .
So in dire frustration with all of the trash being posted I dug up the exact correct wiring diagram ( almost idential to the previous 2 ) and again refuted both you and esemilio

Do you understand why we get a little cranky when people chime in with totally incorrect information that contradicts the previously posted correct information now ?
Regardless of weather it is posted as a question, suggestion or fact it muddies the warters and generates confusion
No body here cares what any bodies back story is.
You could be a pro, back yard mechanic, home mechanic or just a well informed reader no one care just so long as what is posted is correct .
Nothing against you in person .

And FWIW I hate vegemite with a passion it is vile stuff, totally unnecessary in OZ where we get more than enough sunlight but very powerful advertising from Kraft convinced the idiot population that it was good ( it is not good at all ) just like every one seems to think that Coke tastes great ( again it is vile and the excess CO2 hides most of the vile taste ) but the advertising brain washes the bulk of the population to make Coke the largest selling drink on the planet .


#50

C

CLStout

bertsmobile1 said:
You might like to double check that
No safety switches AFAIK do anything other than turn off the engine or blades or prevent the engine cranking.
None of them interupt the light circuit as all of the wiring dagram posted clearly showed.
In fact there is nothing betwwen the battery & the key switch other than a fuse and goes for every mower .
The OP said "not even lights " which suggests that he has battery powered lights which again the wiring diagram confirms .
Again no safety switches between the battery & the lights
In the bulk of mowers all of the safety switches are ground switches ( yes there are a few exceptions )
The cranking circuit on some does have power running through them but again not connected to the lights .
SO even without having the actual mower diagram in front of me I know there has to be a problem between the battery and the mower so it is either the power feed to the key switch or no ground .
Mark posted a wiring diagram in post # 2
Star followed up with another in post # 4
So either you did not read them or did not understand them
Spectre's posts were a bit off the mark, but double checking for a hydro lock would not hurt and in a lot of cases , a "no crank" is because of a hydro lock or ACR failure
SGKENT , Senior, Freddie & Zedo all made good posts
Then your post , solenoid , possible safetys absolutely not
TMG followed up and Zedo refuted the safetys as he should have done
Followed by esemilio who again brought up safety switches and added the seat switch to the totally wrong information
I refuted that post,
Gord made a good suggstion
Then you followed up again with garbage about safety switches on your mower which is not the OP's mower & I would like to know what that is just in case there is an exception that I am unaware of .
So in dire frustration with all of the trash being posted I dug up the exact correct wiring diagram ( almost idential to the previous 2 ) and again refuted both you and esemilio

Do you understand why we get a little cranky when people chime in with totally incorrect information that contradicts the previously posted correct information now ?
Regardless of weather it is posted as a question, suggestion or fact it muddies the warters and generates confusion
No body here cares what any bodies back story is.
You could be a pro, back yard mechanic, home mechanic or just a well informed reader no one care just so long as what is posted is correct .
Nothing against you in person .

And FWIW I hate vegemite with a passion it is vile stuff, totally unnecessary in OZ where we get more than enough sunlight but very powerful advertising from Kraft convinced the idiot population that it was good ( it is not good at all ) just like every one seems to think that Coke tastes great ( again it is vile and the excess CO2 hides most of the vile taste ) but the advertising brain washes the bulk of the population to make Coke the largest selling drink on the planet .
Click to expand...
Well, I don't post "garbage", but I guess from this point on I should offer no suggestions for anything, and just hand off any questions to the experts here.
For the record, I don't like Coke either.
I don't know why you suddenly developed this attitude, but you should check yourself.
We've had discussions in the past, always civil. But it's your choice to cop an attitude.
I hope you have a good day.


#51

B

bertsmobile1

For the record, I don't like Coke either.
Click to expand...
So there you go we can agree on some thing


#52

C

CLStout

Apparently that's the only thing we can agree on, currently. Don't know if we will be able to agree on anything else.


#53

B

bertsmobile1

Still would like to know what mower you have .
I am here to learn just as much as any one else and knowing the exception to the general rule would be very helpful as my regular diagnosing technique may need to be changed .


#54

C

CLStout

OK, it's an Ariens model 936042, 20hp v-twin B&S Intek, 42" deck.
I've tried turning on the headlights (it has a dedicated switch above the ignition switch) with the ignition off, and on the run position. The headlights will only turn on with the engine running.


#55

B

bertsmobile1

Good to know
Sounds likt they are wired into the alternator output or are AC
Do they get brighter when the engine revs higher ?


#56

C

CLStout

Yep. They are pretty dim until I give it at least half throttle. They're the old style incandescent bulbs.


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