L130 - Sudden no crank, no headlights

There is a rectangular connector very near the Ignition switch. Press safety latch and pull apart. Check for green crustys and spray with Zep Battery Care. REPLACE that fuse even though it looked good. A battery can check for 12VDC but have no Amps. Rare but it happens. Possibly your ignition switch has failed. Can you rotate the engine by hand? Basics first.
 
Zedo said:
The poster claims he has no lights. the solenoid and safety switch has nothing to do with the lights.
Click to expand...
I know my tractor's lights won't work if one of the safety switches isn't grounded. There's no power to the ignition switch, and therefore no power to the lights.
 
Try removing the battery cable connections on both battery terminals and clean them well. I've experienced similar symptoms due to corrosion between the cable connector and the battery post (or solenoid, or ground). If this happens, its possible nothing electrical works: starter, lights, etc. It can start and operate fine one moment; then the next time, nothing. If you have a voltmeter, compare the voltage measuring between the battery posts, then from the cable connector to the other connector, without touching the battery post. Good luck.
 
OK,
I ahave tried to stay out of this but too much wrong information is flying around
So to start with there is nothing in the light circuit in a JD L130 that prevents the loghts working other than the key switch or the fuse
NO SAFETY SWICHES IN THE CIRCUIT AT ALL
see Diagram below
L130 lights.jpg

From the battery to the solenoid to the voltage rectifier through the key switch then to ground via the light globes

So no lights = bad switch bad battery cables or bad fuse
To test the fuse, pull the plug off the back of the key switch and check for battery voltage on both the red wiren and the Yellow /white wire , both to Ground wire (black not shown in this diagram ) and to the battery negative post .

The electrical section of the JD technical manual ( which you can buy on line from JD ) is over 100 pages long & I have no intention of rewriting all in the post.
So do the above tests and get back with the results for further instruction.
 
I had a similar issue, it was a high resistance to battery ground, from negative battery cable to body of mower, looking at this ground appeared okay, but removed it and wirier brushed it, reattached and problem was fixed.
 
What a lot users don't understand. It is better to have someone that knows what they are doing to do the work then to be guessing at the problem which can be both frustrating and expensive.

I just got in a Hustler Super Z that the owner has change out the voltage regulator because the battery kept discharging. Well someone had been working on the engine beside me as the engine shroud is installed incorrectly. The owner probably changed out a working voltage regulator just because someone removed the ground strap. $85 voltage regulator vs a $5 strap. And he still had the same problem so it is in my shop now awaiting a deck belt but the engine is now charging the battery.

Plus he installed the wrong regulator for the CV740, he has spent $80 when the replacement was only $25. Boy did the dealer seen him coming.
 
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