Kohler compression problem, post head gasket and valve adjustment

[motoman]

two putt, Glad the useless sniping is over. Probably well to replace head gasket. Waiting to hear your success and happy holiday!

 

[reynoldston]

First, ignore any useless comment(s) that insult your intelligence and offer ZERO help. QUOTE]

Makes perfect sense to me. Just like a new engine for next spring.. Yes ZERO help from me.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thank you bertsmobile1,
First, I checked the torque on head bolts at 30 lb ft, all good.

Second, I pulled the head, found both valves leaking(water with air in intake and exhaust port, bubbles)
.
Third, I lapped and seated the valves, no more leak.

Fourth, I don't really understand the cycle/valve relationship on this motor. However, I inserted and marked the push rods at TDC, this was my observations where the push rods would push out of the cylinder/case, there by, would be pushing on the rocker arm, opening the specific input or exhaust valve. And, the push rod retreating back into the cylinder/case, which would be closing the specific input valve or exhaust valve and both of these in relation of position of the piston. Using the magnet on the flywheel is TDC at 12:00 and the magneto sets at 11:00. The motor runs clockwise.

TDC-where both valves could be adjusted, input and exhaust valves are closed. 12:00 is the piston at TDC and 6:00 the piston is BDC.

Cycle 1, 12:00-6:00, down stroke, from TDC,
Input valve starts to open at approx. 5:00 Exhaust valve closed
Cycle 2, upstroke
Input valve open Exhaust valve closed
Cycle 3, down stroke
Input valve closed Exhaust valve open from 12:00-closes in cycle 4 at 7:00
Cycle 4, upstroke
Input valve closed Exhaust valve open-closes at 7:00
Input valve opens briefly at 7:00 and closed at 10:00

My evaluation cycle 1, Ok, although input valve should have started opening from TDC.
cycle 2, If the input valve is open until cycle 3 where it closes at 12:00 and it was suppose to fire at 11:00, then no compression.
cycle 4, Where the input valve briefly opens and closes, valve spring compresses approx. 1/2 the distant s of a normally compressed open intake valve.
Maybe ACR(automatic compression release inside the case).

Actions,
1. Considering reusing bolts just purchased for current head gasket, also not sure if I should buy a new head gasket, what do you think?
2. Hoping after putting on the head tomorrow, I will have compression, but, not confident per above compression/valve observations.
3. Once I adjusted the valves, I will repeat you suggestion of rotating the push rods through the 4 cycles. Sorry, didn't mean to write a book, lol
4. Since I am a newbie, should I have opened this thread under kohler engines, should I ask administration to move it? Thanks

Check which valve is what.
Looks like you are mixing up the intate & exhaust valves

 

[Two_Putt]

Have found the issue with valves opening 180 deg off. I identified my intake from Cub Cadet part manual as being on the left, facing the lawn mower from the front bumper. However looking at the Kohler Engine manual diagram for 20hp courage sv_600.0009, shows the intake valve on the right. Once I rotated the motor through the 4 cycles, looking at the intake valve on the right, the valves opened correctly. Please understand this is the first motor top end that I have dissembled. I now realize that by looking exhaust port and intake port on the head, I should have caught on sooner.:confused3:

With the fixed leaking valves, I found it harder to turn through the compression cycle, as it should. After putting the motor back together, during initial cranking it would not turn over completely, battery is good. I plan on taking the valve cover off and check the rocker arm clearances. With Christmas around the corner, I may not get to it until after. Merry Christmas everyone.

 

[Two_Putt]

After difficulty of motor to turn over, found both valves to be way out of tolerance. Once adjusted .005 on intake and .007 on exhaust valve on compression stroke(end of cycle two, TDC), success. Motor cranks and running great. Don't have to choke the motor to start.

Just a little side issue, FYI. My Cub Cadet LT 1045, throughout working and pushing the mower around, the relief valve on the transmission stopped working, the transmission was stuck in gear, worked once, stopped again. The linkage appeared to be opening and closing the relief valve. Since the transmission is maintenance free, my last option was once all was put back together, I pushed the drive/forward pedal. Initially it seemed to travel almost its entire pedal travel distance and then the transmission kicked in, after that, it drives correctly and the transmission relief valve is now working fine. I now can pull the transmission relief valve and take it out of gear for pushing. What luck, figured the relief valve was stuck or bound some how and the hydraulic pressure during the drive pedal depression, corrected the valve position. Was due to something going my way.:dance1:

I wish to thank everyone for your help and participation. I believe this site/forum has a mixed levels of technical knowledge and abilities from people willing to take time from their day and help those of us trying to fix our broken stuff, ourselves. Thanks again!