Kawasaki FR691v

[bertsmobile1]

Well set yours at .002" and stop making a song & dance about it.
You have been told the spec is wrong
And I will also tell you the spec is wrong
The amount of valve lash is fairly well consistant across most small engines because the pushrod length is fairly consistant and the lash is there to compensate for thermal expansion.
The water cooled engines are a bit tighter because they stay cooler.
You have already been told the on line manual is wrong what the hell more do you want us to do.
We can not go into every copy on every computer and edit it

 

[macdog73]

I couldn't figure why I would be arguing with a prof. mech. I went to a MM (metric ) to English conversion table . If your not too upset I found that .050 MM(metric) converts to 0.0020 (thousands inch.)

 

[7394]

Look in your Owners Manual, there (in mine at least) is a phone number for Kawasaki.
And ask your local Dealer.

Are you sure your Rocker Arm Brackets are Tight. If they are loose, "your specs" will explain the rattle you mentioned

Install the rocker arm brackets [A] so that bracket hollows fit to the cylinder head projections [C]. •Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the rocker arm bracket bolts, and tighten them. Torque - Rocker Arm Bracket Bolts: 14.7 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

 

[macdog73]

sorry to type over this mssg. === problem solved ===== follow method and check to make sure piston is onTDC IN COMPRESSION STROKE and adjust valves to .0020 thousands once done mower ran all afternoon.. BTW backfiring was threw carb.

I'm back 4/25 .Again mower now backfires and stumbles at FULL throttle but when throttle is backed off to 3/4 it runs fine for the rest of the time mowing .After stopping blades . I parked mower I throttled back but would not go to lowest throttle .(Idled at lower RPM's to cool engine before shut down for 1 min.)

 

[clubairth]

Sorry can't help with your problem but I just did the valve adjustment and found out a few tips?

First jack the back of the mower up. Otherwise oil pours out of the bottom of the valve covers. And it will keep coming out because of how they designed the engine. Poor design!

Be sure and have a new set of valve cover gaskets on hand. They will be brittle and come off in pieces. Why Kawasaki can't figure out you need to install a REUSABLE gasket on items that must be removed for service? Part # 11061-1285 about $12-$15 for the pair.

Kawasaki wants the valves adjusted every 300 hours. I have 310 Hrs. Gaps were wider than factory spec so glad I adjusted them back to the .002"-.0039" specification. The eccentric rocker bolt seems like a good idea and it was a bit simpler to adjust compared to the normal adjusting Allen bolt.

Can't really say anything is different but I "think" it runs better? Hard to say as it was running fine before too?
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[Norma_G]

Hey folks. New to the forum. I have a Toro SS 5000 with a Kawasaki FR691v 23 HP engine. Recently, it has started backfiring when I pull the switch to engage the blades. I've heard everything from it possibly being a fuel solenoid to the brake module. Hard to get an answer out of my local dealer or the manufacturer. I currently don't really have a way to get it to a shop so if I could do it myself it would be great. Thoughts? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

It is a common problem with the Kawasaki engine. I have had the same problem before. It is a problem with a fuel line. It is so close to the engine that you can’t get to it. You can get to the fuel line by removing the protective plate. You may need to get a fuel line repair kit to fix the fuel line.

 

[7394]

Gaps were wider than factory spec so glad I adjusted them back to the .002"-.0039" specification.

Let us know how those specs do for yours.. .