John Deere LX277 won"t drive forward or back.

[Muhammad]

Okay guys let's say no more political signature files and keep the arguments to which mower is better. Sound good?

 

[logert gogert]

sir yes sir

 

[ILENGINE]

Edit, AVB, don’t leave the forum because a runny nosed kid won’t listen. Just ignore him and continue to provide your knowledge to those willing to listen. We need good techs here with knowledge like you have. I’ll try to keep him in line or get kick off trying to do so.

I agree with Rivets AVB, Stick around, we have already lost a good tech this week because some punk decided to get nasty with him in a PM.

 

[logert gogert]

yes AVB please dont leave, im very sorry for saying anything that annoyed you, just please dont leave just because of some kid like me, and like they said, they need you.

 

[HotIron]

Back to the no-go LX277. As suggested above, I jacked up the rear end and turned the wheels. They turned in opposite directions. I held one wheel while turning the other. The turned wheel turns while the other is held solid. There is some resistance. I checked both axle keys and they are intact. You can see the shaft is solid to the wheel. I then started the tractor while jacked up and pressed the drive pedals. The wheels did not turn at all. I removed the seat, fenders, and gas tank. The pulley on top of the transmission is on a splined shaft and this was intact. The belt shows a date code of 4417 which I assume means 2017. The idler pulleys are in good condition. AVB said it indicates internal damage. There are several Tuff Torg K62 for sale on ebay $300 on up. I think I'm going to buy one.

 

[tom3]

One question here. When you push the forward or reverse pedal do you hear any noise at all from the transaxle? Most of these hydros have a sliding sleeve that engages the hyd. motor to the differential. This is usually a pretty weak looking piece and possible has cracked and stripped the engagement splines. Not an expensive piece if you can take the transmission apart and DIY. I'd first try that pulling and pushing that disengagement rod on the rear while rocking the tractor back and forth, might grab a little bit of the splines left?

 

[bertsmobile1]

This will be tricky but I have every confidence in you
With the wheels locked, on the ground will do , reach op & try to turn the pulley.
It has a really fine spline that is prone to stripping out .
From memory it can not be in park because that locks the layshaft

 

[HotIron]

I don't remember hearing any noise. Are you talking about the free wheeling control as the disengagement rod? If so, I will try that next. I think I understand about grabbing some bit of the splines left. I will also listen for noise while pressing forward and reverse pedals.

 

[HotIron]

Answering Bertsmobile....I looked at the drive pulley splines and they seem ok. I will try turning it while holding the wheels from turning as you said, out of park which I assume means locking the engagement of the brake.

 

[Rivets]

Never heard of a date code on a belt, so I wouldn’t trust that. Don’t purchase anything until you do a couple of tests. As long as you have the fenders and seat off, I’ve got a couple of dumb questions to ask. First, is the belt going to the tranny tight or snug? Second, with the unit off, can you move the tensioner arm by hand to exert more pressure on the belt? Third, when you press down on the brake pedal and then release it, does the tensioner arm always come back to the same spot? Fourth, when you tried to drive the unit while jacked up, did the belt run smooth and tight, no slipping? Why do I want to know? 1. A belt that is not good and tight will slip under load. 2. If you can move the tensioner, it means you have a missing or broken spring or it is dirty and rusted at the pivot point. 3. Same as #2. 4. This would be the cause of a worn belt. If it was me I would replace the belt before I stuck money into a tranny.