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It stopped suddenly while mowing my yard. I didn't notice any unusual sounds, the engine still runs and the blades will still engage but it just won"t go.
Mine is the model with front wheel steering.

Check your traction drive pulley on your transaxle.
I've seen many of those get striped out.

Thanks, that's exactly what the problem was. While we had the mower apart we found some other bad bearings and worn belts and
went through the whole thing and now it runs like new. I was thankful it wasn't the hydrostat which probably have been the end for
my trusty old mower. Thanks again for the helpful advise. bookguy

My John Deere LX277 just quit going forward or backward. Acts as if free wheeling control is on. I just bought the LX277 as part of a house purchase. While using the 42 inch blade to push snow, the tractor just quit moving. I had run the tractor for a couple of hours moving heavy Iowa snow and it worked good, then just stopped moving. While pushing and towing back to the garage, it acted as if the freewheeling control was on. Freewheeling control on or off makes no difference. I see on this forum page to check the traction drive pulley as it could be stripped. I assume I will have to remove the seat, fenders, and gas tank to get to this. What strips on the traction drive pulley and how do I check for this?

HotIron said:

My John Deere LX277 just quit going forward or backward. Acts as if free wheeling control is on. I just bought the LX277 as part of a house purchase. While using the 42 inch blade to push snow, the tractor just quit moving. I had run the tractor for a couple of hours moving heavy Iowa snow and it worked good, then just stopped moving. While pushing and towing back to the garage, it acted as if the freewheeling control was on. Freewheeling control on or off makes no difference. I see on this forum page to check the traction drive pulley as it could be stripped. I assume I will have to remove the seat, fenders, and gas tank to get to this. What strips on the traction drive pulley and how do I check for this?

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what transmission do you have?
and btw, welcome to the forum, there are alot of good people on here with alot of knoweldege and will help you out

I am not sure what transmission it is, but it is a two wheel drive. Internet searches suggest a TuffTork K62. My LX27 tractor serial number M0L277C023851.

is there a clutch and do you have to shift?
or do you just press a pedal and it goes

First Logert it appears you have an attitude problem much like Deere2Me that the Moderators and I got rid of over on PPETEN several years ago. Instead first assuming what the poster has try looking the equipment first. For John Deere the best site is jdparts.deere.com which you can bookmark the following page once you select you default language.

Holtron, If it is free wheeling with the Tuff Torq K62B engaged raise the rearend. While holding one still try turning the other end. Does it try to the wheel you holding the opposite direction or just free wheels? If it free wheels remove both rear wheels and check that axle shaft square keys are still in place. If the are in place then you something broken internally in the transaxle. But with you using it a hours before it failed I do suspect internal problems.

I will jack it up and try to turn the wheels as you said. Thanks.

attidtude? i peomise you i had no attidtude, soemm times people can take a text message the wrong way, then what the sender intended it to sound like

First thing I would check are the drive idler pulleys, drive tensioner arm and the drive belt. 80% of the time this is the cause of a no drive condition.

logert gogert said:

attidtude? i peomise you i had no attidtude, soemm times people can take a text message the wrong way, then what the sender intended it to sound like

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You might like to think abut it like this.
I am now 69, old enough to be your grandfather and the bulk of the regular posters here are well over 50.
So we see the world a touch differently to a 13 year old.
What is funny to you is outragous or disrespectful to most of us.
Now I have a hide thicker than a bull elephant so you would have to be trying hard to insult me and when some one is getting on my nerves I just ignore them.
They can find out what I could have told them from some where else, no skin off my nose.

When I was first here I regularly had to let people know I am Australian and we are plain talkers so if some one is acting like an idiot then they get told so .
Even then I am sure there were a lot who made complaints to moderators about my "rude & arrogant attitude".
These sorts of social skills you are yet to develope.
In males they happen in the late teens & early 20's and in some, never at all.

Remember 10 years ago the funniest thing you could do was say POO where it was inappropriate but by 6 you would have grown out of that.

You also need to remember tat this is a help line and not FaceBook so you are not required to respond to every post and in most cases people would preffer you did not unless you have something factual to add.
I could respond to nearly every one but if some one has it I don't as is the same with all of the professional techs.

There are may here who would regard your signature lines as offensive enough to consider you as nothing more than a very immature pig ignorant attention seeking idiot .
When you are seeking help from people that you do not know it is sort of expected that you don't kick down their font doors spit in their faces then demand to be heard & helped.

And just for the record
I hate President Trump ( show respect )
& think Americans who run round waving guns in the air are their own worst enemies.
And you are probably so poorly versed in your own history that you failed to note that the gun rally was on the anniversary of a murder
Thus it was more a celebration of racism & white supremacy that countering proposed SANE gun laws.

I agree with Bert, but would add that your signature line indicates that you do have an attitude with any who would disagree with you. The professionals here don’t reply to threads where other pros have started the OP in one direction and don’t want confusion to set it. They will do so only if they have seen the exact problem before and have a resolution to suggest.

i am sorry for the way you feel about my signature bert, and i respect your thoughts and i respect both of you and everyone else here, but in the end of the day, everone is entiltled to there own opinions.
but for as the other part, i was just trying to help someone, i would like to learn so i can help people on this site just like you guys do.

I have opinions about everything.
but this is not the place for them so they get kept to myself.
Eventually most people grow up & realize that opinions are like bum holes.
Every one has one but no one is really interested in any one elses
And with this comment I have now highlited your profile & hit the ignore key so from now on you do not exist.
I would imagine a lot of other techs have already done the same thing.
Oh and RESPONSIBLE ADULT PARTENTS protect their families not pimple faced children

I'm sorry for the way you feel bert, but i refuse to argue with you

Logert,

I have anger issues and a serious dislike for stupid people

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Oh I got a brother with similar attitude. He started the business I have he pissed off more customers than he made good business relationship with. He lost over $6000.00 the first year of being business. When he quit the business leaving me a bind as the business was officially in my name I had no choice but make good the repairs he was paid for upfront and didn't finish. Once I got over that hurtle and started gaining customers he tried to destroy the business by telling everyone that I stoled his business after he had gone around for over 2 months telling everyone that he had quit.

He is the type person that think everything he owns or operates can't be touched by anyone else but your stuff is around that it is free to use. He had a friend to borrow $10 and didn't pay it back as soon as my brother wanted so he wouldn't speak or have anything with his friend for nearly 10 yrs.

Like a lot of folks I tend to avoid people like you so to keep me from being frustrated here I am leaving the forum as there are other forums that have more business like environment that respect each other. Besides Spring just around the corner and I will not have the time to fool with trying help those that don't want help.

73's Folks,

KE4AVB

what? i respect you i respect everybody, and i am nowhere near the way your brother is. and when did i show attitude like your brother has?
i have never said a comment that was disrespectful or hurtful. and i only have anger issues to a certain extent.
for example:
some body is being really dumb and they think they know more than anybody else and they INSIST they know more than every body else, and wont take advice, or listen, even though they asked for help.
at that point i'm not blowing up at them i'm just frusturated, but if he continues, then i will start to get mad.

( no i'm not referring to any body else here or you, its just an example )

Logert, you say you want to learn. When you understand and follow the wisdom my grandfather gave me back in the 50’s, you will start learning. His wisdom was, “You can’t learn any thing when your mouth is open and your eyes are closed “. This is the hardest lesson we’ve all had to learn and based on my 34+ years of teaching students from 12-70, many have to learn the hard way. 99% of your replies don’t help, because your base knowledge is nonexistent. Example, in another thread you told the OP to make sure his solenoid is bolted in place, because that is how you solved your problem. You may have solved your problem, but have no idea why it worked. Base knowledge says it worked because you had a three terminal solenoid, which uses the solenoid frame as ground, which only allows current to return to the battery when fastened to the chassis. If it were a four terminal solenoid this would not have applied, as the four terminal solenoid uses the fourth terminal allows current to return to the battery through a ground wire. Bert and I have tried to be patient with you and have tried to help you expand your base knowledge, but you can’t close your mouth. My suggestion is to stick to the Funny Picture thread, you can’t hurt yourself there. Bert has chosen to ignore you, but I will continue to let posters know when your replies don’t mean much and not waste their time. We are here to use our base knowledge to help people, but I guess as a teacher I’ll have to use mine to keep you out of the fools corner. Another one of grandpa’s wisdom, “ Engage brain first, then open mouth”

Edit, AVB, don’t leave the forum because a runny nosed kid won’t listen. Just ignore him and continue to provide your knowledge to those willing to listen. We need good techs here with knowledge like you have. I’ll try to keep him in line or get kick off trying to do so.

yes sir, im sorry, but i dont want to stick to the picture thread, i want to help, but now looking back i see that my replies werent helpful, and im sorry, ill just sit back and watch and learn let you guys do it, ill stop replying and only speak when spoken to, hopefully i will be able to help but like you said my knoweledge is very low in this circumstance,
just please dont ban me im very sorry.

We will see, only time will tell.

time will tell what?

ABV,

Click on Logerts name in the left side panel
Under his name will be three buttons.
Click on the middle "ignore" button.
Then the petulent little twerp can post all the junk that he likes and you won't see it.

Much better than leaving because destroyers like him will end up where ever you end up for a repeat performance.

If you feel Logert is in breach of forum rules then click on the "report" link on the bottom of any of his posts and type in why you think he should be banned .
I am not in favour of the latter because they just rejoin and come back refreshed & renergized.
When the kids threw a tatrum we always ignored them completely.
They learned is was a waste of time very quickly

what did i do to you??

i have been nice to you, and when you said stuff i said i refuse to argue, and a i havent said anything to you for awhile but then you turn around and keep on going,

and once again, i refuse to argue with you

Logert, he was talking to AVB, not to you. You said you were going to be quiet, if you would have ”Engaged your brain“ first, you would have realized that.

but you see the way he was talking about me?

but yes sir im sorry

I have had people say a lot worse things about me on this forum. Learn from it and move on, part of gaining life experience And knowledge, all depends on how you use it.

rivets, youre wisdom is unbelievable, you remind me of gandolf from lord of the rings, youre a great guy, thank you

Okay guys let's say no more political signature files and keep the arguments to which mower is better. Sound good?

sir yes sir

Rivets said:

Edit, AVB, don’t leave the forum because a runny nosed kid won’t listen. Just ignore him and continue to provide your knowledge to those willing to listen. We need good techs here with knowledge like you have. I’ll try to keep him in line or get kick off trying to do so.

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I agree with Rivets AVB, Stick around, we have already lost a good tech this week because some punk decided to get nasty with him in a PM.

yes AVB please dont leave, im very sorry for saying anything that annoyed you, just please dont leave just because of some kid like me, and like they said, they need you.

Back to the no-go LX277. As suggested above, I jacked up the rear end and turned the wheels. They turned in opposite directions. I held one wheel while turning the other. The turned wheel turns while the other is held solid. There is some resistance. I checked both axle keys and they are intact. You can see the shaft is solid to the wheel. I then started the tractor while jacked up and pressed the drive pedals. The wheels did not turn at all. I removed the seat, fenders, and gas tank. The pulley on top of the transmission is on a splined shaft and this was intact. The belt shows a date code of 4417 which I assume means 2017. The idler pulleys are in good condition. AVB said it indicates internal damage. There are several Tuff Torg K62 for sale on ebay $300 on up. I think I'm going to buy one.

One question here. When you push the forward or reverse pedal do you hear any noise at all from the transaxle? Most of these hydros have a sliding sleeve that engages the hyd. motor to the differential. This is usually a pretty weak looking piece and possible has cracked and stripped the engagement splines. Not an expensive piece if you can take the transmission apart and DIY. I'd first try that pulling and pushing that disengagement rod on the rear while rocking the tractor back and forth, might grab a little bit of the splines left?

This will be tricky but I have every confidence in you
With the wheels locked, on the ground will do , reach op & try to turn the pulley.
It has a really fine spline that is prone to stripping out .
From memory it can not be in park because that locks the layshaft

I don't remember hearing any noise. Are you talking about the free wheeling control as the disengagement rod? If so, I will try that next. I think I understand about grabbing some bit of the splines left. I will also listen for noise while pressing forward and reverse pedals.

Answering Bertsmobile....I looked at the drive pulley splines and they seem ok. I will try turning it while holding the wheels from turning as you said, out of park which I assume means locking the engagement of the brake.

Never heard of a date code on a belt, so I wouldn’t trust that. Don’t purchase anything until you do a couple of tests. As long as you have the fenders and seat off, I’ve got a couple of dumb questions to ask. First, is the belt going to the tranny tight or snug? Second, with the unit off, can you move the tensioner arm by hand to exert more pressure on the belt? Third, when you press down on the brake pedal and then release it, does the tensioner arm always come back to the same spot? Fourth, when you tried to drive the unit while jacked up, did the belt run smooth and tight, no slipping? Why do I want to know? 1. A belt that is not good and tight will slip under load. 2. If you can move the tensioner, it means you have a missing or broken spring or it is dirty and rusted at the pivot point. 3. Same as #2. 4. This would be the cause of a worn belt. If it was me I would replace the belt before I stuck money into a tranny.

Answering Rivets...... I will try to check the belt tightness and slippage. Also, the idlers and springs. I have quite a list of things to do now. Also the previous owner said he had the belt replaced recently. It looks good.

Latest on the no-go LX277. I removed the transmission, Tuff Torg K62A, opened it up for inspection, and found everything in good shape. There were no metal filings or dirt in there. I put it back together and reinstalled it with new oil (Sportline 5W-50 full synthetic) and it works fine until I try to install the free-wheeling rod (disengagement or bypass). With that rod installed it will not go at all. When the trouble happened I thought I noticed something in the brake linkage which does pull on the free-wheeling lever to enable the transmission when the brake pedal is pressed. I had been pushing snow and when I changed the blade angle, I would set the parking brake, get off and change the angle, get back on and push some more. All of a sudden, it would not go. I now have left off the free-wheeling rod and it drives fine. Could this rod have become bent somehow? I can't find a John Deere parts diagram that shows it for reference. I have photos of mine though. Has anyone heard of this free-wheeling rod bending?