OK Im getting close to removing the pan, but cant seem to get the "transmission" off of the crankshaft. There is a setscrew that is super tight and thats about it, its soaking in penetrant right now.
John Deere JA65 wont start, New Coil done
- Thread starter thinkglad
- Start date
OK Im getting close to removing the pan, but cant seem to get the "transmission" off of the crankshaft. There is a setscrew that is super tight and thats about it, its soaking in penetrant right now.
Yes,
As you can see I'm going in, I have nothing to loose at this point, and a camshaft is only about $45.00
Plus some gaskets, way cheaper than a new mower of any quality. I know the history of this mower as it used to be my fathers. It was a weekend warrior and that's all I know.
Dads gone now, but his mower is still here! That alone gives me reason to get it running, and detailed seeing as its all broken down.
Any insight on what to do and any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated.
Broken Deere
Lawnranger
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Look around on the web and see if you can find a shop service manual with specifications. Before you disassemble the engine you may want to measure crankshaft end play. The thickness of the oil pan gasket usually is what is used to change crankshaft end play so make sure to get a gasket set as many times the set comes with several different thickness oil pan gaskets for adjusting crank end play.
As far as insight, tips & tricks go: Take your time, have a clean workbench, have rags handy, take pictures as you go, take notes as you go, study the parts as you take them off/apart, take note of bolt length as some bolts in the oil pan could be longer than others, keep parts in order of dis-assembly so you can put them back together in order, don't use too much force, use common sense, think things through before acting, if you get frustrated take a break, ask lots of questions on this forum if you get stuck and have some fun while repairing Dad's mower.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
As far as insight, tips & tricks go: Take your time, have a clean workbench, have rags handy, take pictures as you go, take notes as you go, study the parts as you take them off/apart, take note of bolt length as some bolts in the oil pan could be longer than others, keep parts in order of dis-assembly so you can put them back together in order, don't use too much force, use common sense, think things through before acting, if you get frustrated take a break, ask lots of questions on this forum if you get stuck and have some fun while repairing Dad's mower.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Lawnranger
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The transmission is likely not pressed on but corroded on. Many times the crankshaft pulley or in your case transmission is corroded on due to the fact that wet grass is cut and gets stuck on the bottom of the deck which creates a humid environment until the moisture evaporates away. This moisture is what will contribute to rusting a deck from the bottom side and causing crank pulleys (and transmissions) to get stuck on the crankshaft. I would avoid using heat and go buy some top quality penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, Kroil or In-Force and soak that sucker for days or even a week or more until you can remove it with as little force as possible. Spray the crank on both sides of the transmission morning, noon and night until you free the transmission from the crank.
Good luck.
