john deere 68 coil wiring

[bertsmobile1]

Could you post up the part number for the ignition module I would need? Thanks

There is only one.
Atom industries invented the hall effect magneto control module a long time ago and when they marketed it they sold 7 different color coded models with different advance curves and rates to suit several different types of engines.
However today there is only one so it makes your life a lot easier.
Cunning engine makers eventually incorperated them into the actual coil so in place of getting a $ 15 control module you now have to buy a $ 70 coil + module combination.
Victa mounted them under the carb but most seem to go on one of the coil mounting bolts so they get a good earth and cooling air flow from the fan.

 

[moody34]

That model JD 68 the engine is enclosed and you will find the module will ten to overheat on warmer days. Just buy a new set of points and condenser. It will be cheaper, easier, and the mower will start better on the warm days with a hot engine. Its a old mower that doesn't turn very sharp and it is hard to find parts for anymore so how much do you want to spend it. Most of the model 68's have just a pull rope starter.

I did a few searches and couldn't find pints and condenser for this engine, any links? How does flywheel come off? I could just blow the thing apart but want to make sure there's no snags I could come across. Thanks

 

[reynoldston]

There is only one.


Victa mounted them under the carb but most seem to go on one of the coil mounting bolts so they get a good earth and cooling air flow from the fan.

I don't know now familiar you are with the model 68 John Deere. The engine is mounted inside a removeable steel box with very poor ventilation. It vents from the back of the mower pass the exhaust system and muffler and out the side into a fiberglass engine cover that holds the seat. All this heat has no place to go. Yes I think it was a poor design because the engine did ten to over heat on very hot days. So the big thing here is cooling air flow, it just doesn't have it. Its a older outdated mower that they don't make parts for anymore. Is it worth spending very much money on I guess would be up to the owner. This is the reason I say put a set of points and condenser in and run it.

 

[ILENGINE]

Thanks for the responses guys. View attachment 25844View attachment 25843.
Here's a couple more pictures with the serial number involved. In the owners manual it doesn't get real specific it just says briggs and Stratton 8 hp. What is involved in the pointless conversion iLENGINE? Thanks

View attachment 25845View attachment 25846

Part number for the points and condensor is 294628 and the part number for the magnetron ignition module which doesn't use the points and you can just give the old module a good tug and pull the wire loose from the points and leave them in place, and the new module just installed where the old module that you have in your hand in the picture came from is part number 398811.

 

[EngineMan]

I did a few searches and couldn't find pints and condenser for this engine, any links? How does flywheel come off? I could just blow the thing apart but want to make sure there's no snags I could come across. Thanks

Briggs and Stratton Part 294628, BREAKER-IGNITION | PartsTree.com

 

[moody34]

Would I have any issues yanking off the flywheel? Gonna go with points and condenser. Thanks for all the help

 

[EngineMan]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lov5n015e...k for older engines 1919-1981 CE8069.pdf?dl=0

 

[bertsmobile1]

Would I have any issues yanking off the flywheel? Gonna go with points and condenser. Thanks for all the help

They can be a bugger to get off if they have been on for a long while.
I have a proper B & S puller which bolts into the flywheel so I put tension on the flywheel the hit it with the rattle gun, pops off easily
previously I used a 2 or 3 jaw puller and a rattle gun. but once every so often I have bent the flywheel and you need to be really careful not to damage the magnets,

 

[moody34]

They can be a bugger to get off if they have been on for a long while.
I have a proper B & S puller which bolts into the flywheel so I put tension on the flywheel the hit it with the rattle gun, pops off easily
previously I used a 2 or 3 jaw puller and a rattle gun. but once every so often I have bent the flywheel and you need to be really careful not to damage the magnets,

I assume I yank off the pull start snout first?

 

[bertsmobile1]

yes , unbolt the top cowl and the pull start should come off with it.

The starter clutch usually responds to a big stilsons wrench or a BIG punch and some dead blows just be carefull not to damage the holes that the debris screen bolts into , which I should have mentioned must be removed after the cowl.
Be careful haw you steady the flywheel while you do this as the fins breal off really easy then the mower will be unbalanced unless you do exactly the same to the fin exactly opposite.
A strap wrench or chain wrench is very handy for this.
Undo the center bolt, also a bit of resistance, run it out all thway, remove the washers then replace the bolt down to about 3 threads off the bottom so if you bugger a thread it will be the easy to replace bolt and not the very expebsive crank.