Interlock question

[Red Good]

No battery and no regulator then it is not DC , dc is solely for battery storage so the e start will have energy to draw from . no e start then it is ac from the stator and magnet .

 

[bentrim]

See if this helps
Here is a links for a manual for a Pro 150. Note the first few pages give a way to eliminate the module.

Note to ALL: Please when you ask for help with a Gravely (maybe others) include the model #. Should be a tag on the engine deck and is six digits as 988100, 988101 etc. Gravely used trade model and a spec number. To say Pro 150 is like saying I have a Silverado pickup.

https://apache.ariens.com/manuals/00496500.pdf

 

[StarTech]

Hmmm that circuit diagram is what I came up on this end from studying the original wiring schematic with the module but part safety operation didn't jive with it. Maybe I mis read his post.

 

[SamB]

Very few of us have ever seen one of these units in the first place (doubt even a Gravely has seen very often either) and then it would take someone with initiative to simple pull the circuit board out the interlock module housing. If it is like another OEM one I did pull out several years ago it is so simple it wasn't funny. I wish had took the time to record the info about it but I didn't even think of doing at the time as I wasn't running my own forum at the time and had serious family health problem that require a lot more of my attention at the time. If I remember correctly it is just a printed circuit with a couple jumpers and one lead that is a false lead, no magic components.

But since you willing to replace it there is little harm in taking the module apart for a look see. I would do it here if I had one in hand but I don't and have no reason to buy one currently. Besides I would most like start hard re-wiring once I knew how it was setup to keep costs down like I do with the JD ECUs on the Z800 and Z900 series ZTRs.

On one of my older ZTR mowers, I did away with the 'module' and wired all safety switches in series so if any one of them were in incorrect position, open or closed, the engine quit, the blade brake clamped down and the seat occupied switch killed everything also.. A separate grounding circuit isn't difficult to build. Reinventing a 'modern' safety system can be frustrating.(and expensive. Or NLA parts)
Crippling any safety feature is like disabling one's vehicle brakes. All is fine until the need arises!

 

[bentrim]

If you review my previos post on page 1 & 2 esentialy does that and elinimates the module.
The issue is the switches used with the module are normally open and when activated are closed. The switched in the "kit" are normally closed and open when activated. This means if a switch is deactivated the ignition is shorted to ground and kills the engine, and also deactivates the clutch.

 

[bentrim]

If you review my previos post on page 1 & 2 esentialy does that and elinimates the module.
The issue is the switches used with the module are normally open and when activated are closed. The switched in the "kit" are normally closed and open when activated. This means if a switch is deactivated the ignition is shorted to ground and kills the engine, and also deactivates the clutch. The only question left is are the parts cheaper than a module?

 

[SamB]

If you review my previos post on page 1 & 2 esentialy does that and elinimates the module.
The issue is the switches used with the module are normally open and when activated are closed. The switched in the "kit" are normally closed and open when activated. This means if a switch is deactivated the ignition is shorted to ground and kills the engine, and also deactivates the clutch. The only question left is are the parts cheaper than a module?

My apologies. I didn't click on your link and study it. Changing out an NO switch to a NC switch is sometimes needed if the part uses NO switches. User protection needs to be taken seriously. One never knows who is going to use that OPE down the road. Defeating safety features puts the one who did that at risk, also.