intek 20HP 31p977 0575 E1

[2ball]

I got a free lawn tractor, Husqvarna YTH2042, that I am trying to get running. 450 hrs on the engine.

From what I can tell the engine had a head gasket failure, it burned all of the oil out and then broke the connecting rod.

I took the head off and can confirm the gasket issue and broken rod. the cylinder walls look ok.

I don't know how much damage the broken rod caused, but how likely will it be that I just have to replace the rod?

If I replace the engine will any 20HP vertical shaft engine work? is there a compatible engine list?

Do people sell used engines? I cant find any?

I'm pretty handy, and an engine switch should be doable for me, even a rebuild if that is cost effective.

 

[bertsmobile1]

If the rod is busted then the crank would be suspect.
But you will not know till you strip it down
So start tallying the potential cost
crankshaft ?
con rod
Rings
Gasket set
pushrods
Then look at the cost of a replacement.
In the 20Hp range you are at the lower limit of commercial machines so some may have a 1.125" dia PTO shaft thus you need to take care .
Any Briggs engine with the same PTO shaft should drop strait in and hook right up.
If not things like alternators will swap strait over.
Small Engine Warehouse
Small engine suppliers
Surplus center all have heavily discounted engines.

And following the Ch 11 proceedings with Briggs I would expect to see a lot of very cheap B & S engines hitting the market reasonably soon .
It woud be nice if they got offered to the long suffering dealers first but liquidators like to do big single sales even if it yields a lot less money for creditors .

 

[2ball]

thanks, Hopefully I can get it apart this week.
so right now it looks like a similar new engine is running in the 5 to 6 hundred dollar range.

looks like used ebay crankshaft, new conrod and gaskets will run about $150.

I also broke off a bolt with a torque wrench putting the head back on. Hopefully that comes out easy if I just try to rebuild it.

 

[2ball]

I'm having trouble getting the main drive pulley off.

I got the bolt out, but the pulley is stuck on the shaft.

I got some lubricating oil on it. Its at a bad angle to hut it with a hammer.

Anyone got any tips to get this off?

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Put the crank bolt back in with no washer on it. Use a air hammer on the bolt. Usually comes right off.

 

[bertsmobile1]

What Hammer forgoy was put a pry bar behind the pulley apply force to lever the pulley off then use the air hammer

 

[2ball]

couldn't get it off first try. I got it soaking interpenetrating oil now.

I'm confused on how the bolt would help. If the pulley does not have threads it wont act like a bearing puller/crank puller.

what does putting the bolt back in help?

 

[Fish]

You are hitting the bolt, thus the crankshaft. The bolt threaded most of the way in protects the crank when striking.

 

[2ball]

This thing is a bear.

Lets take a step back. I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

I have a Milwaukee electric impact driver. The mid level one.

I'm supposed to put the bolt, with out the lock washer, back in the driveshaft (the bolt holds on the drive pulley).

I'm going to impact that tight while prying down on the pulley with a pry bar?

Does that sound right?

Is it the hammering of the impact and the prying that gets it loose?

 

[Fish]

No, using an impact brings a tight nut/bolt loose, but the stuck flywheel or pulley need a force that pushes or drives the crankshaft off. Once the pulley starts moving, then you unthread the bolt and take the pulley on off the shaft.
Here is an instructional video I made to help folks. It is a clutch and flywheel on a string trimmer, but it is the same technique. The hammer tapping the clutch loose, would be the same action that an impact wrench would have, but in this case the clutch itself also doubles as the fastener bolt/nut. I use the clutch here as you would the bolt, and drive that downward and off of the shaft.