Impressions: newGT48XLSi

[motoman]

The seat cushion cover has started cracking along an embossed line . No sharp objects in pocket ever. No sun or freezing exposure. Disappointed...my dyt4000 , vintage 2004 with 800 hours still has a perfect seat , no cracks. I see perfect Craftsman used seats on Craigslist for $100.

Not a reply to seat cover. Over a year ago I attempted to leave info on the failed locker switch which is dash mounted, but it did not show so here is the bare bones info. The switch was damaged by a branch which tore off the (removable) switch top. This switch sends plus or minus current to the linear actuator which engages or disengages the locking feature. No information was found for this Husqy part anywhere so had to dig. The switch is manufacture by Carling , pn 1610R , 20A, 12V, The linear actuator pn is 584393401. Carling is very helpful, and provides a data sheet online ,but will not recognize or confirm the application. The switch is a rocker type , 8 pin with one cavity empty and with index dowel. I found one on ebay for $8. They come in colors , some with led, some without. Worked perfectly

 

[motoman]

The starter engagement "jamming" has apparently stopped @ 232 hours. As noted earlier it reminded me of British cars I once owned. The sensation was that the starter solenoid was stuck "on" and therefore annoying. The problem can be caused by incorrect engagement of starter drive gear vs flywheel gear. Too tight and/or improper gear tooth profile(s) , but a quality problem. The flywheel gear probably machines a clearance on the starter gear. I should have "blued" and read the problem, but taking out the starter is not so easy multiplied by laziness. Otherwise mower is running cool and well, the locker freeing me from ruts and mole mounds.

 

[motoman]

Pulling empty recycle bin in my toy trailer, 37F, slushy road, locker switch engaged, one wheel on pavement, the other on packed slush, slight grade. Suddenly "click," and no drive. Cycled disengagement "wire," nothing. Cycled electric dash locker switch. Nothing. Next scene pulling machine with car up slight grade and into shelter. Grunt grunt, 800 lb beast. No attempt yet to diagnose. The tractor has never pushed snow and only used locker to evade mud holes. I am hoping (somehow, Murphy) that this is some "minor" linkage problem and not fatique/snap of axle shaft which would be a great disappointment. Please chime in with theory.....ha ha ha (always wait 5 sec after actuating locker switch)

Later. I reread my bloated thread and see a warning about a shear pin weakness on the locker engagement drive. RATS if I have to go in when I have babied this thing. (Probably due to OCD gear oil change when not really necessary)

3/13/23 I am too wimpy to get under the Husqy for initial look (37F, no heat). Prolonged search does not reveal any obvious, or named " shear pins" in rebuild kits or in several (long) youtube K66 rebuild videos. Perhaps something upstream. Any ideas?

 

[motoman]

Pulling empty recycle bin in my toy trailer, 37F, slushy road, locker switch engaged, one wheel on pavement, the other on packed slush, slight grade. Suddenly "click," and no drive. Cycled disengagement "wire," nothing. Cycled electric dash locker switch. Nothing. Next scene pulling machine with car up slight grade and into shelter. Grunt grunt, 800 lb beast. No attempt yet to diagnose. The tractor has never pushed snow and only used locker to evade mud holes. I am hoping (somehow, Murphy) that this is some "minor" linkage problem and not fatique/snap of axle shaft which would be a great disappointment. Please chime in with theory.....ha ha ha (always wait 5 sec after actuating locker switch)

Later. I reread my bloated thread and see a warning about a shear pin weakness on the locker engagement drive. RATS if I have to go in when I have babied this thing. (Probably due to OCD gear oil change when not really necessary)

3/13/23 I am too wimpy to get under the Husqy for initial look (37F, no heat). Prolonged search does not reveal any obvious, or named " shear pins" in rebuild kits or in several (long) youtube K66 rebuild videos. Perhaps something upstream. Any ideas?

 

[motoman]

Finally laid down on cold cement and removed tranny. Pictures . Earlier statement that drain/refill impossible without tranny removal FALSE. Once locker actuator is removed a whole new view /access is revealed of the fill plug (2 drain plugs on bottom easy).

Surprise so far . No metal chips, teeth, broken shafts or pins. Moderate metal powder slime on magnets.
Filter could use a changeout. The rumored shear pin is not to be found. Axle keys good.

The "click" noise was definite so must look further. Probably into "motor" and "pump." ANY TIPS OUT THERE APPRECIATED.

NUTS files too large . Cannot upload. Must refresh on how to reduce. Paint function?

5/6 Only one magnet

 

[motoman]

Finally laid down on cold cement and removed tranny. Pictures . Earlier statement that drain/refill impossible without tranny removal FALSE. Once locker actuator is removed a whole new view /access is revealed of the fill plug (2 drain plugs on bottom easy).

Surprise so far . No metal chips, teeth, broken shafts or pins. Moderate metal powder slime on magnets.
Filter could use a changeout. The rumored shear pin is not to be found. Axle keys good.

The "click" noise was definite so must look further. Probably into "motor" and "pump." ANY TIPS OUT THERE APPRECIATED.

NUTS files too large . Cannot upload. Must refresh on how to reduce. Paint function?

 

[motoman]

The photos went onto a different forum. Tired fighting the restriction here. K66 back together with no problem found. Serious doubt about the carling locker switch. The orig failed after tree branch incident. The replacement is failed after little usage. Dissection does not show any arcing ,pitting of contacts. This switch is $50 from dealer, $25 online . Will try 6 contact rocker widely available @ $10. The 7th pin is an option led, and the 8th is unused. Carling data sheet shows 100,000 actuations expected...that must be without current flowing IMO.

 

[motoman]

The photos went onto a different forum. Tired fighting the restriction here. K66 back together with no problem found. Serious doubt about the carling locker switch. The orig failed after tree branch incident. The replacement is failed after little usage. Dissection does not show any arcing ,pitting of contacts. This switch is $50 from dealer, $25 online . Will try 6 contact rocker widely available @ $10. The 7th pin is an option led, and the 8th is unused. Carling data sheet shows 100,000 actuations expected...that must be without current flowing IMO.

The 6 pin on-off-on rocker (IT-$10) requires an adapter harness bcause the bottomside contacts do not match the female harness plug "amp-packard" (carling). So it is cheaper to buy, but requires a little work. It will control the diff actuator. Also found a Carling VDD1 -6 contact switch ($12) which should fit, but without the LED (# 7 connector contact). Number 8 connector contact cavity is unused in orig.

Edit of 4/24 The Carling 6 contact switch plugs into the female harness plug . Have not applied voltage yet.

 

[motoman]

The mettalic sound was a broken drive belt. The tranny was like new and is installed again. The drive belt is the worst issue ever with this machine . The broken belt was pulled out without noting the routing and this has become a time wasting operation because neither the owners manual or parts list is accurate. Many pics posted on another forum. The drive belt confusion seems to be a generic issue with other Husky models. I was lucky for the belt to last 250 hours. If this all sounds strange...yes, a drive belt should just go on with "some" effort, but not this one. "Discovery" is left up to the owner as to installing the belt on the engine, and how to fit the belt over the tranny fan where there is insufficient clarance for the belt to loop over the fan shaft tip. Issues that should never happen. This situation is reducing the satisfacton level.

 

[motoman]

The mettalic sound was a broken drive belt. The tranny was like new and is installed again. The drive belt is the worst issue ever with this machine . The broken belt was pulled out without noting the routing and this has become a time wasting operation because neither the owners manual or parts list is accurate. Many pics posted on another forum. The drive belt confusion seems to be a generic issue with other Husky models. I was lucky for the belt to last 250 hours. If this all sounds strange...yes, a drive belt should just go on with "some" effort, but not this one. "Discovery" is left up to the owner as to installing the belt on the engine, and how to fit the belt over the tranny fan where there is insufficient clarance for the belt to loop over the fan shaft tip. Issues that should never happen. This situation is reducing the satisfacton level.

The belt was rerouted and seems proper, but have not run yet. Now that it has been done 4 or 5 times a few comments ...If no note of the proper belt routing has been made ( as in "pulled out broken") the owners manual is a deficient guide. (1) The diagram of belt installation shows the narrow portion of the belt loop passing to engine as right of steering shaft. This is not the correct view as looking down from the driver seat (call it engine-oil- filter- side), but I started with it and found it wrong; that path is congested and the belt cannot fit on the 3 middle pulleys. The parts list diagram of the belt is correct -should pass on left side. (2) The owners manual instruction is silent on the engine pulley retainer which is secured with two 9/16" capscrews, nor does the parts list show it. The belt cannot be removed until the retainer is loosened . Turn the tractor wheels one way and another and 2 "secret" access holes will appear thru which a socket extension can be inserted to loosen. (3) In back the fan diameter is too large to loop the belt over onto the pulley, and the fan shaft tip is too close to the bottom of the gas tank for the belt to pass over. Loosen 9 bolts to allow the tranny to sag (4 axle, 1 locker actuator side -flanged- support passing under axle, 4 front tranny mount to frame). Then bend a hook from heavy wire and reach thru slit in rear frame panel. Fuss and pull (still not easy). Now hook belt on far side (you are working from "oil-filter" side) of fan over one blade and rotate fan...repeat as in bicylcle chain maneuver. There is not enough slack to complete fan exercise with belt on engine pulley. After a long, self-imposed learnng curve , this belt replacement is probably now a half day job. It "might" be done without completely removing the deck. By only removing the front "yoke" to allow the belt onto the engine pulley. All this a bit inconvenient, no?

edit 4/28 Running well . A new 6 pin carling sw will not turn on the locker. It may be a harness problem This sw problem is chronic. Considering switch relocation to right side cup holder area with another 6 pin sw.