You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
I'm no mechanic, need help...
#1
R
Retired404
R
Retired404
Background:
Cub Cadet Z42
Kohler 7000se.
Had issues with the carburetor last fall & stored over winter with the carb disassembled.
This week I replaced the carb, plugs, fuel pump oil & filter.
It fired right up and but smoked a lot initially, but subsided and won’t idle smoothly.
Suggestions?
Thanks
Cub Cadet Z42
Kohler 7000se.
Had issues with the carburetor last fall & stored over winter with the carb disassembled.
This week I replaced the carb, plugs, fuel pump oil & filter.
It fired right up and but smoked a lot initially, but subsided and won’t idle smoothly.
Suggestions?
#2
S
slomo
S
slomo
Oil level too high? On those engines I think, you park the stick on top of the threads. You don't screw the oil dipstick in to check the level. Double check me on that.
Carb needle and seat need attention? Pressure test the carb. Should hold a max of 7psi.
Do you have good fuel delivery AT the carb?
Do you have spark AT each plug grounded to the engine block?
Carb needle and seat need attention? Pressure test the carb. Should hold a max of 7psi.
Do you have good fuel delivery AT the carb?
Do you have spark AT each plug grounded to the engine block?
#3
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Won't idle smoothly ?
does it rev up then slow down then rev up again in endless cycles , which is called surging
or
Does it miss occasionally ?
Does the exhaust blow smoke, if so what colour ?
Replaced the carb ?
put the old one back together & replaced it ?
Bought a new one & fitted it ?
If it was a new one where did you get it from ?
Why did you take it off in the first place ?
does it rev up then slow down then rev up again in endless cycles , which is called surging
or
Does it miss occasionally ?
Does the exhaust blow smoke, if so what colour ?
Replaced the carb ?
put the old one back together & replaced it ?
Bought a new one & fitted it ?
If it was a new one where did you get it from ?
Why did you take it off in the first place ?
#4
D
DaveTN
D
DaveTN
From listening to your video the first thing that
came to mind was a blown head gasket. I've
seen them smoke and surge like that before,
but check out what 'Slomo' and 'Bert' say 1st.
Yes, I'm curious why you took off the carb to
begin with. What was the compression on both
cylinders? Plugs fouled from oil or carbon from
over rich mixture? Good Luck and Welcome to
The LMF!
came to mind was a blown head gasket. I've
seen them smoke and surge like that before,
but check out what 'Slomo' and 'Bert' say 1st.
Yes, I'm curious why you took off the carb to
begin with. What was the compression on both
cylinders? Plugs fouled from oil or carbon from
over rich mixture? Good Luck and Welcome to
The LMF!
#5
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
He probably took the carburetor off because everyone often seems to think it’s the carburetor. So the parts changing begins…From listening to your video the first thing that
came to mind was a blown head gasket. I've
seen them smoke and surge like that before,
but check out what 'Slomo' and 'Bert' say 1st.
Yes, I'm curious why you took off the carb to
begin with. What was the compression on both
cylinders? Plugs fouled from oil or carbon from
over rich mixture? Good Luck and Welcome to
The LMF!
#6
C
ChrisBFRPKY
C
ChrisBFRPKY
Check your choke adjustment. It looks like the choke butterfly is almost closed in the video. It's flooding.
#7
D
Dougmc
D
Dougmc
Just a thought
With carb left off for long period time
Would leave the intake valve less protected maybe rust around seat of the valve ?
With carb left off for long period time
Would leave the intake valve less protected maybe rust around seat of the valve ?
#8
Z
Zue
Z
Zue
In your video, it appears that the engine is not idling, but the throttle is wide open. It also shows in your video that the choke seems to be mostly closed. This sounds like the engine is running too rich and the smoke coming from the engine is because it has too much fuel. Find out why your choke is closed while the engine is running wide-open. This seems to be your problem.Background:
Cub Cadet Z42
Kohler 7000se.
Had issues with the carburetor last fall & stored over winter with the carb disassembled.
This week I replaced the carb, plugs, fuel pump oil & filter.
It fired right up and but smoked a lot initially, but subsided and won’t idle smoothly.
Suggestions?Thanks
#10
CubbyCommando
CubbyCommando
Adding to the thought process of ZUE. The Kohler 7000 has the "smart choke" that uses an "air vane" to open up the choke once it starts. You need to pull the shroud and make sure the "air vane" linkage isn't bound up or bent or sticking.
One last note to keep in mind. If you do find something amiss with the air vane and correct it, be sure to put the shroud back on before testing because it must be on for the air vane to operate correctly. Good luck.
One last note to keep in mind. If you do find something amiss with the air vane and correct it, be sure to put the shroud back on before testing because it must be on for the air vane to operate correctly. Good luck.
#12
F
ft_motors
F
ft_motors
Your engine runs lean. Did you replace your carb with a genuine Kohler carb or knock off carb? The knock off carbs are manufactured poorly therefore the air/fuel ratio is incorrect.Background:
Cub Cadet Z42
Kohler 7000se.
Had issues with the carburetor last fall & stored over winter with the carb disassembled.
This week I replaced the carb, plugs, fuel pump oil & filter.
It fired right up and but smoked a lot initially, but subsided and won’t idle smoothly.
Suggestions?Thanks
#13
J
Jim363
J
Jim363
Possibility some of smoke and fuel line debris is blocking exhaust. Might check muffler and clean it outBackground:
Cub Cadet Z42
Kohler 7000se.
Had issues with the carburetor last fall & stored over winter with the carb disassembled.
This week I replaced the carb, plugs, fuel pump oil & filter.
It fired right up and but smoked a lot initially, but subsided and won’t idle smoothly.
Suggestions?Thanks
#14
J
Johner
J
Johner
Did not read all the responses, had a similar problem , Tiny O rings on the main jet could be the problem idling.
#15
Tiger Small Engine
Engine is not running rich, it is running lean and hunting and surging. Check “smart choke” if equipped as suggested first for proper function. Then check for air leaks in intake gaskets. Then start trying to adjust air/fuel mix on carburetor if equipped. Then you have to drill out jet as last resort. Aftermarket carburetors on Kohler engines specifically are hit and miss. Otherwise, this engine will never run right or make proper power. Or, get original carb working properly or bite the bullet and buy sniOEM carburetor.
Tiger Small Engine
Kawasaki engine you screw oil dipstick to left until it drops on threads then check. Briggs and a Kohler you screw in all the way. Honda take out dipstick and place it in without screwing it to read proper oil level.Did not read all the responses, had a similar problem , Tiny O rings on the main jet could be the problem idling.
Engine is not running rich, it is running lean and hunting and surging. Check “smart choke” if equipped as suggested first for proper function. Then check for air leaks in intake gaskets. Then start trying to adjust air/fuel mix on carburetor if equipped. Then you have to drill out jet as last resort. Aftermarket carburetors on Kohler engines specifically are hit and miss. Otherwise, this engine will never run right or make proper power. Or, get original carb working properly or bite the bullet and buy sniOEM carburetor.
#16
chuckpen
chuckpen
I did not see a governer spring on the governer rod/shaft. Get one if missing and replace. There is some black tie wire or such, get that off. Choke is closed in video, as others have mentioned. The choke assembly is not assembled correctly. broken, and / or not properly connected to the carb, or, the choke mechanism on the other end is not installed correctly / hung up / broken. This link gives a lil overview of Kohler auto-choke on a mower but not specific to yours. This may help you understand how these chokes work.
#17
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
The only one on your list that screw the dipstick in is the Briggs. Kohler is set on top of the threads also. There was an issue with one engine that they said to screw the dipstick in but that changed after the dipstick replacement service bulletin That engine went from 64 oz to 56 oz oil capacity.Kawasaki engine you screw oil dipstick to left until it drops on threads then check. Briggs and a Kohler you screw in all the way. Honda take out dipstick and place it in without screwing it to read proper oil level.
Engine is not running rich, it is running lean and hunting and surging. Check “smart choke” if equipped as suggested first for proper function. Then check for air leaks in intake gaskets. Then start trying to adjust air/fuel mix on carburetor if equipped. Then you have to drill out jet as last resort. Aftermarket carburetors on Kohler engines specifically are hit and miss. Otherwise, this engine will never run right or make proper power. Or, get original carb working properly or bite the bullet and buy sniOEM carburetor.
#18
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
Looks like you're choke is in the closed position and it's only being forced open because many of those are on a spring and they can work against the spring and yours is bouncing back and forth as the engine surges.
This could just be that the choke adjustment from the cable needs to be proper so the choke won't be forcibly closed all the time on its spring or you could still have a partial restriction in the carburetor and it may need some choke to continue to run because surging is the first sign of that but that's the main problem now.
You also need to check your oil and make sure it's not overfilled and not thinned out with gasoline because often a bad carburetor will allow fuel to migrate into the crankcase which is referred to as fuel migration or oil dilution.
If your oil is just oil and add a safe level like not over 3/16 of an inch above the full mark then it certainly not going to harm it to run smoking like that as it will probably clear up but you can see the black soot on the side of the frame back there from the choke being closed because it's running excessively rich and Rich equals black smoke too but over the course of last year and such you could have got some oil puddling in your muffler and that will take about 20 to 30 minutes to burn off.
Even if you have a blown head gasket the only thing it's going to hurt is it's going to carbon up your plug but I highly doubt you have a blown head gasket on a 7000 series Kohler.
You can see that butterfly in the throat of the carburetor and it should be only closed fully when the engine is turned off and you pull the choke lever or set your control to full choke.
As soon as you turn off the choke which should be after you start the mower or as soon as you put the throttle speed in the full running position if it's a combination choke throttle lever then that butterfly should be completely open which means horizontal in the throat so it does not block any air flow.
It's also very possible you have some linkage issues or it's installed incorrectly. I never recommend people take carburetors off their mower or actually take anything apart because it's just far too easy to mess them up..
Most every car clean out or repair can be done with the carburetor still on the machine so there's really no reason to remove the carburetor and it removes the potential for other problems non-related to the actual first problem.
This could just be that the choke adjustment from the cable needs to be proper so the choke won't be forcibly closed all the time on its spring or you could still have a partial restriction in the carburetor and it may need some choke to continue to run because surging is the first sign of that but that's the main problem now.
You also need to check your oil and make sure it's not overfilled and not thinned out with gasoline because often a bad carburetor will allow fuel to migrate into the crankcase which is referred to as fuel migration or oil dilution.
If your oil is just oil and add a safe level like not over 3/16 of an inch above the full mark then it certainly not going to harm it to run smoking like that as it will probably clear up but you can see the black soot on the side of the frame back there from the choke being closed because it's running excessively rich and Rich equals black smoke too but over the course of last year and such you could have got some oil puddling in your muffler and that will take about 20 to 30 minutes to burn off.
Even if you have a blown head gasket the only thing it's going to hurt is it's going to carbon up your plug but I highly doubt you have a blown head gasket on a 7000 series Kohler.
You can see that butterfly in the throat of the carburetor and it should be only closed fully when the engine is turned off and you pull the choke lever or set your control to full choke.
As soon as you turn off the choke which should be after you start the mower or as soon as you put the throttle speed in the full running position if it's a combination choke throttle lever then that butterfly should be completely open which means horizontal in the throat so it does not block any air flow.
It's also very possible you have some linkage issues or it's installed incorrectly. I never recommend people take carburetors off their mower or actually take anything apart because it's just far too easy to mess them up..
Most every car clean out or repair can be done with the carburetor still on the machine so there's really no reason to remove the carburetor and it removes the potential for other problems non-related to the actual first problem.
#19
T
TobyU
I tell people all the time to stay away from that and away from that rabbit hole because most every video I see either does things the wrong way completely or at least they do things the hard way.
Most people do come up with the proper diagnosis but that's because we can come up with that right now. About 80% of all starting and running issues on lawn mowers especially push mowers are caused from lack of proper fuel delivery specifically lack of enough fuel which is almost always caused by the carburetor not doing what it should or being as clean as it needs to be.
So they've got the diagnosis right but it's their method of going about fixing it that is either flawed or just done the hard way.
Anyone who thinks they're competent enough to take off the carburetor and install a new one should be just as competent to fix the problem and leave the carburetor still on the machine.
I literally do hundreds of these in an eight-month cutting season and I don't remove 10% of them from the mowers.
The fastest is on the old school Briggs which I can do in 6 to 8 minutes but let's just say 8 minutes max.
The new briggs takes me 10 to 12 if I'm not in a hurry.
These people on YouTube take the carburetor off and lay it out on the table and everything like that and by the time they have it all back on the machine and running they spent between 30 if we're lucky to typically at least 45 minutes.
I don't really have time for that as I have 50 other mowers sitting there to fix but regardless it's just a waste of time.
That expression works smart or not harder it's not really what I'm saying I'm saying work smarter! Work smarter and work quicker. Sometimes it is a little harder but it gets the job done and it does it more quickly and it's actually less work it's just a little more tedious work in some situations.
But let's face it, anyone who is replacing a carburetor or working on these small engines who can't handle tedious work, probably should "step away from the toolbox".
T
TobyU
Yes, and most of this is because of the evil youtube!He probably took the carburetor off because everyone often seems to think it’s the carburetor. So the parts changing begins…
I tell people all the time to stay away from that and away from that rabbit hole because most every video I see either does things the wrong way completely or at least they do things the hard way.
Most people do come up with the proper diagnosis but that's because we can come up with that right now. About 80% of all starting and running issues on lawn mowers especially push mowers are caused from lack of proper fuel delivery specifically lack of enough fuel which is almost always caused by the carburetor not doing what it should or being as clean as it needs to be.
So they've got the diagnosis right but it's their method of going about fixing it that is either flawed or just done the hard way.
Anyone who thinks they're competent enough to take off the carburetor and install a new one should be just as competent to fix the problem and leave the carburetor still on the machine.
I literally do hundreds of these in an eight-month cutting season and I don't remove 10% of them from the mowers.
The fastest is on the old school Briggs which I can do in 6 to 8 minutes but let's just say 8 minutes max.
The new briggs takes me 10 to 12 if I'm not in a hurry.
These people on YouTube take the carburetor off and lay it out on the table and everything like that and by the time they have it all back on the machine and running they spent between 30 if we're lucky to typically at least 45 minutes.
I don't really have time for that as I have 50 other mowers sitting there to fix but regardless it's just a waste of time.
That expression works smart or not harder it's not really what I'm saying I'm saying work smarter! Work smarter and work quicker. Sometimes it is a little harder but it gets the job done and it does it more quickly and it's actually less work it's just a little more tedious work in some situations.
But let's face it, anyone who is replacing a carburetor or working on these small engines who can't handle tedious work, probably should "step away from the toolbox".
#20
T
Tork Ranch
T
Tork Ranch
Have a Kohler, it ran nice for 5 min. then started coughing surging and smoking. Took it to the small engine repair shop, they charged $160.oo said they did a carb job and changed the oil. I took it home , started it up 5 min later it was doing the same thing. I checked oil the next day, crank case was "full" (of oil/gas mixture). I changed the oil and fuel pump (pump had a hole in the diaphragm, and was pumping most of the gas into the crank case). It runs like a dream now. Good luck.
#21
Tiger Small Engine
So you are saying you can successfully clean a carburetor without taking it off the mower, trimmer, chainsaw, pressure washer, generator, etc? Can you tell me how you can do this in 8 minutes? Taking out the pilot jet, main jet, emulsion tube etc.
Tiger Small Engine
Yes, and most of this is because of the evil youtube!
I tell people all the time to stay away from that and away from that rabbit hole because most every video I see either does things the wrong way completely or at least they do things the hard way.
Most people do come up with the proper diagnosis but that's because we can come up with that right now. About 80% of all starting and running issues on lawn mowers especially push mowers are caused from lack of proper fuel delivery specifically lack of enough fuel which is almost always caused by the carburetor not doing what it should or being as clean as it needs to be.
So they've got the diagnosis right but it's their method of going about fixing it that is either flawed or just done the hard way.
Anyone who thinks they're competent enough to take off the carburetor and install a new one should be just as competent to fix the problem and leave the carburetor still on the machine.
I literally do hundreds of these in an eight-month cutting season and I don't remove 10% of them from the mowers.
The fastest is on the old school Briggs which I can do in 6 to 8 minutes but let's just say 8 minutes max.
The new briggs takes me 10 to 12 if I'm not in a hurry.
These people on YouTube take the carburetor off and lay it out on the table and everything like that and by the time they have it all back on the machine and running they spent between 30 if we're lucky to typically at least 45 minutes.
I don't really have time for that as I have 50 other mowers sitting there to fix but regardless it's just a waste of time.
That expression works smart or not harder it's not really what I'm saying I'm saying work smarter! Work smarter and work quicker. Sometimes it is a little harder but it gets the job done and it does it more quickly and it's actually less work it's just a little more tedious work in some situations.
But let's face it, anyone who is replacing a carburetor or working on these small engines who can't handle tedious work, probably should "step away from the toolbox".
TobyU-Yes, and most of this is because of the evil youtube!
I tell people all the time to stay away from that and away from that rabbit hole because most every video I see either does things the wrong way completely or at least they do things the hard way.
Most people do come up with the proper diagnosis but that's because we can come up with that right now. About 80% of all starting and running issues on lawn mowers especially push mowers are caused from lack of proper fuel delivery specifically lack of enough fuel which is almost always caused by the carburetor not doing what it should or being as clean as it needs to be.
So they've got the diagnosis right but it's their method of going about fixing it that is either flawed or just done the hard way.
Anyone who thinks they're competent enough to take off the carburetor and install a new one should be just as competent to fix the problem and leave the carburetor still on the machine.
I literally do hundreds of these in an eight-month cutting season and I don't remove 10% of them from the mowers.
The fastest is on the old school Briggs which I can do in 6 to 8 minutes but let's just say 8 minutes max.
The new briggs takes me 10 to 12 if I'm not in a hurry.
These people on YouTube take the carburetor off and lay it out on the table and everything like that and by the time they have it all back on the machine and running they spent between 30 if we're lucky to typically at least 45 minutes.
I don't really have time for that as I have 50 other mowers sitting there to fix but regardless it's just a waste of time.
That expression works smart or not harder it's not really what I'm saying I'm saying work smarter! Work smarter and work quicker. Sometimes it is a little harder but it gets the job done and it does it more quickly and it's actually less work it's just a little more tedious work in some situations.
But let's face it, anyone who is replacing a carburetor or working on these small engines who can't handle tedious work, probably should "step away from the toolbox".
So you are saying you can successfully clean a carburetor without taking it off the mower, trimmer, chainsaw, pressure washer, generator, etc? Can you tell me how you can do this in 8 minutes? Taking out the pilot jet, main jet, emulsion tube etc.
#22
C
ChrisBFRPKY
Don't hate on the Tubers TobyU! There's a few here that do good work.
C
ChrisBFRPKY
Toby is probably talking about dropping the bowl and giving it a squirt of carb cleaner. Which is fine in many cases but not fine when you have one that's been run and stored on Ethanol fuel and the carb is rotten and pitted inside. No need to clean those, drop 'em in the trash and invest $10-$12 in another carb you can rot out with Ethanol fuel. Or go to the trouble of removing the Ethanol from your gas. 10% Ethanol means out of that 10 gallons of gas you only get 9 gallons back when you remove the Ethanol. Carbs are cheaper.TobyU-
So you are saying you can successfully clean a carburetor without taking it off the mower, trimmer, chainsaw, pressure washer, generator, etc? Can you tell me how you can do this in 8 minutes? Taking out the pilot jet, main jet, emulsion tube etc.
Don't hate on the Tubers TobyU! There's a few here that do good work.
#23
T
TobyU
I would say over 80% of them that I have seen either do things the wrong way or the hard way.
T
TobyU
Problem is there are only a FEW that do good work as you just said.Toby is probably talking about dropping the bowl and giving it a squirt of carb cleaner. Which is fine in many cases but not fine when you have one that's been run and stored on Ethanol fuel and the carb is rotten and pitted inside. No need to clean those, drop 'em in the trash and invest $10-$12 in another carb you can rot out with Ethanol fuel. Or go to the trouble of removing the Ethanol from your gas. 10% Ethanol means out of that 10 gallons of gas you only get 9 gallons back when you remove the Ethanol. Carbs are cheaper.
Don't hate on the Tubers TobyU! There's a few here that do good work.
I would say over 80% of them that I have seen either do things the wrong way or the hard way.
#24
T
TobyU
On the old Briggs with aluminum carb there's no separate pilot jet or emulsion tube etc to get these things running.
I just push the mower handles to the ground so the front wheels are off and so the carb won't leak when I take the bowl off from the half inch jet bolt.
Then clean out the bowl and run my cleaning wires through the jet and blast off the float and the gasket with carburetor spray.
I usually sit the mower back down and let some fuel come through the float and work it up and down a few times.
Then very carefully put the bowl back on so no dirt gets into it or I will sometimes hold it on with my finger and let it fill up after I place the lower back down and then shake the mower back and forth to sloshing around and then take my finger out the hole to let it dump out and take all the debris with it in case a couple of little specks got in there.
Regardless, but the jet back in and tighten it up and the things run like new.
Occasionally if one is more dirty I will blast carb cleaner to the two small holes in the front of the carb and even run a wire down there and then blast compressed air in when I have the bowl off but this normally isn't necessary.
On the new Briggs with the plastic carb I had to order a special 7 mm (or maybe it's 6mm can't remember) gear wrench because nobody had one locally and then I had to grind down the outer head of it so it would fit onto the carburetor and not touch the plastic.
So now I can put my wrench on and hold it with my finger and zap the screws loose much faster than I could with a quarter inch drive socket until I can pull them out in my fingers.
Then pop the bowl off with a screwdriver and use flat nose pliers to pull the jet tube assembly out.
Briggs want you to replace that so they can make $6 but I just run my wires to it and blast it with carb cleaner and compressed air being careful not to blow a little brass jet out because the one on the top right will blow out easily and fly across the room.
Then I usually use the carb cleaner straw and last car cleaner through the small holes on the left and right side of the inside throat of the carburetor and sometimes up in the bottom too and then I clean off the float and everything so there's no dirt down there and then wipe off the deck with my oily rag from where the car cleaner just touched it so it doesn't damage the paint.
Then press the jet tube back into place and put the bowl back on.
They almost always fire up by the second or third pull after this.
I then get my digital tach and set the RPMs because these newer briggs tend to be all over the place and the older ones almost always have stretched springs so they're slower than they should be.
I did a pressure washer today with a Huayi carb.
That has both Jets and the emulsion tube.
Still very quick and easy though as long as it's not extremely rusted up or the bowls all destroyed or whatever but many time it's just something clogging the main jet.
10 mm to take the bowl off and then unscrew the jet with my special screwdriver that's only one inch long so I can always get it underneath when it's on a mower deck.
Then remove the jet and the emulsion too and clean everything out and I blast car cleaner up through the bottom and compress air also.
Then put it back together and see if it surges. If it doesn't You're Gold but about 30 to 50% of the time you have to take out the secondary jet which I think you referred to as a pilot yet and I also think a lot of people call them and idle jet but you have to take that out and run a small wire through the end of that but that's just the one I will stop screw and then lift it up clean it out blow it out put it back in you're done.
It's under 10 minutes.
T
TobyU
Yes, I do it all the time.TobyU-
So you are saying you can successfully clean a carburetor without taking it off the mower, trimmer, chainsaw, pressure washer, generator, etc? Can you tell me how you can do this in 8 minutes? Taking out the pilot jet, main jet, emulsion tube etc.
On the old Briggs with aluminum carb there's no separate pilot jet or emulsion tube etc to get these things running.
I just push the mower handles to the ground so the front wheels are off and so the carb won't leak when I take the bowl off from the half inch jet bolt.
Then clean out the bowl and run my cleaning wires through the jet and blast off the float and the gasket with carburetor spray.
I usually sit the mower back down and let some fuel come through the float and work it up and down a few times.
Then very carefully put the bowl back on so no dirt gets into it or I will sometimes hold it on with my finger and let it fill up after I place the lower back down and then shake the mower back and forth to sloshing around and then take my finger out the hole to let it dump out and take all the debris with it in case a couple of little specks got in there.
Regardless, but the jet back in and tighten it up and the things run like new.
Occasionally if one is more dirty I will blast carb cleaner to the two small holes in the front of the carb and even run a wire down there and then blast compressed air in when I have the bowl off but this normally isn't necessary.
On the new Briggs with the plastic carb I had to order a special 7 mm (or maybe it's 6mm can't remember) gear wrench because nobody had one locally and then I had to grind down the outer head of it so it would fit onto the carburetor and not touch the plastic.
So now I can put my wrench on and hold it with my finger and zap the screws loose much faster than I could with a quarter inch drive socket until I can pull them out in my fingers.
Then pop the bowl off with a screwdriver and use flat nose pliers to pull the jet tube assembly out.
Briggs want you to replace that so they can make $6 but I just run my wires to it and blast it with carb cleaner and compressed air being careful not to blow a little brass jet out because the one on the top right will blow out easily and fly across the room.
Then I usually use the carb cleaner straw and last car cleaner through the small holes on the left and right side of the inside throat of the carburetor and sometimes up in the bottom too and then I clean off the float and everything so there's no dirt down there and then wipe off the deck with my oily rag from where the car cleaner just touched it so it doesn't damage the paint.
Then press the jet tube back into place and put the bowl back on.
They almost always fire up by the second or third pull after this.
I then get my digital tach and set the RPMs because these newer briggs tend to be all over the place and the older ones almost always have stretched springs so they're slower than they should be.
I did a pressure washer today with a Huayi carb.
That has both Jets and the emulsion tube.
Still very quick and easy though as long as it's not extremely rusted up or the bowls all destroyed or whatever but many time it's just something clogging the main jet.
10 mm to take the bowl off and then unscrew the jet with my special screwdriver that's only one inch long so I can always get it underneath when it's on a mower deck.
Then remove the jet and the emulsion too and clean everything out and I blast car cleaner up through the bottom and compress air also.
Then put it back together and see if it surges. If it doesn't You're Gold but about 30 to 50% of the time you have to take out the secondary jet which I think you referred to as a pilot yet and I also think a lot of people call them and idle jet but you have to take that out and run a small wire through the end of that but that's just the one I will stop screw and then lift it up clean it out blow it out put it back in you're done.
It's under 10 minutes.
#25
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Ok, so push and self-propelled mowers, and some pressure washers you can do this on. I already know about this method, it’s called the “quick and dirty “ carburetor cleaning method. The bowl gasket is sometimes difficult to line up, just cleaning the main jet and emulsion tube doesn’t always work, it does not apply to handheld equipment, or for that matter some riding and zero turn mowers. I work on not many push and self-propelled mowers in comparison to all different types of equipment. Youtube guys do use the “quick and dirty”. That is how I learned about it years ago.Yes, I do it all the time.
On the old Briggs with aluminum carb there's no separate pilot jet or emulsion tube etc to get these things running.
I just push the mower handles to the ground so the front wheels are off and so the carb won't leak when I take the bowl off from the half inch jet bolt.
Then clean out the bowl and run my cleaning wires through the jet and blast off the float and the gasket with carburetor spray.
I usually sit the mower back down and let some fuel come through the float and work it up and down a few times.
Then very carefully put the bowl back on so no dirt gets into it or I will sometimes hold it on with my finger and let it fill up after I place the lower back down and then shake the mower back and forth to sloshing around and then take my finger out the hole to let it dump out and take all the debris with it in case a couple of little specks got in there.
Regardless, but the jet back in and tighten it up and the things run like new.
Occasionally if one is more dirty I will blast carb cleaner to the two small holes in the front of the carb and even run a wire down there and then blast compressed air in when I have the bowl off but this normally isn't necessary.
On the new Briggs with the plastic carb I had to order a special 7 mm (or maybe it's 6mm can't remember) gear wrench because nobody had one locally and then I had to grind down the outer head of it so it would fit onto the carburetor and not touch the plastic.
So now I can put my wrench on and hold it with my finger and zap the screws loose much faster than I could with a quarter inch drive socket until I can pull them out in my fingers.
Then pop the bowl off with a screwdriver and use flat nose pliers to pull the jet tube assembly out.
Briggs want you to replace that so they can make $6 but I just run my wires to it and blast it with carb cleaner and compressed air being careful not to blow a little brass jet out because the one on the top right will blow out easily and fly across the room.
Then I usually use the carb cleaner straw and last car cleaner through the small holes on the left and right side of the inside throat of the carburetor and sometimes up in the bottom too and then I clean off the float and everything so there's no dirt down there and then wipe off the deck with my oily rag from where the car cleaner just touched it so it doesn't damage the paint.
Then press the jet tube back into place and put the bowl back on.
They almost always fire up by the second or third pull after this.
I then get my digital tach and set the RPMs because these newer briggs tend to be all over the place and the older ones almost always have stretched springs so they're slower than they should be.
I did a pressure washer today with a Huayi carb.
That has both Jets and the emulsion tube.
Still very quick and easy though as long as it's not extremely rusted up or the bowls all destroyed or whatever but many time it's just something clogging the main jet.
10 mm to take the bowl off and then unscrew the jet with my special screwdriver that's only one inch long so I can always get it underneath when it's on a mower deck.
Then remove the jet and the emulsion too and clean everything out and I blast car cleaner up through the bottom and compress air also.
Then put it back together and see if it surges. If it doesn't You're Gold but about 30 to 50% of the time you have to take out the secondary jet which I think you referred to as a pilot yet and I also think a lot of people call them and idle jet but you have to take that out and run a small wire through the end of that but that's just the one I will stop screw and then lift it up clean it out blow it out put it back in you're done.
It's under 10 minutes.
#26
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
So how does this 10 minute fix repair a cracked manifold tube whih is probably the most common cause of older walk behinds with B & S engines surging .
There are lots of Quick & dirty short cuts and most of them are as deplorable and when the flaking corrosion around the main jet come loose a week latter and the mower starts surging again my reputation is down the toilet , or another bit of the grit in the fuel tank ends up blocking the float needle because the mower has no fiter or the accumulated water in the fuel tanks end up back in the carb again or the failing fuel line dumps some more rubber into the carb etc etc etc .
And lets not forget oil leaking out of the dip stick seal .
Now If I was flipping mowers for maximum profit with a tough luck if it stops when you get it home attitude I might adopt these types of practices but my reputation & relationships with my customers is far more important than scamming them for 1/2 hour of labour & doing shoody work.
It takes me about an hour to remove the carb & toss it in the ultra sound , drian & clean the fuel tank, replace the blades , change the engine oil, lube the control cables & wheels . Then rebuild the carb with new parts and put it back on , usually with new fuel lines to boot .
Then I know the mower will work fine today tomorrow next week next month and for the full 6 months that I guarantee my work so they will recommend me to others because they are so happy with my work rather than tlling all their friends than all back yard mower mechanics are shysters .
I replace a lot of Honda main jets because people have tried these sorts of fixes and strip the slot out of the main jet
There are lots of Quick & dirty short cuts and most of them are as deplorable and when the flaking corrosion around the main jet come loose a week latter and the mower starts surging again my reputation is down the toilet , or another bit of the grit in the fuel tank ends up blocking the float needle because the mower has no fiter or the accumulated water in the fuel tanks end up back in the carb again or the failing fuel line dumps some more rubber into the carb etc etc etc .
And lets not forget oil leaking out of the dip stick seal .
Now If I was flipping mowers for maximum profit with a tough luck if it stops when you get it home attitude I might adopt these types of practices but my reputation & relationships with my customers is far more important than scamming them for 1/2 hour of labour & doing shoody work.
It takes me about an hour to remove the carb & toss it in the ultra sound , drian & clean the fuel tank, replace the blades , change the engine oil, lube the control cables & wheels . Then rebuild the carb with new parts and put it back on , usually with new fuel lines to boot .
Then I know the mower will work fine today tomorrow next week next month and for the full 6 months that I guarantee my work so they will recommend me to others because they are so happy with my work rather than tlling all their friends than all back yard mower mechanics are shysters .
I replace a lot of Honda main jets because people have tried these sorts of fixes and strip the slot out of the main jet
#27
T
TobyU
I find that most YouTube videos take the whole thing apart and lay on the table because you know they are trying to do an instructional video so it's easier to show what's going on if that's what they're trying to do.
I don't call it quick and dirty I will say it's a little bit harder to do but it is faster and I find the results are the same.
As you said, you can't do them all this way as if you have a Honda with a clogged up secondary idle jet it's going to surge after you do this and it's possible but very much too tedious and time-consuming to try to clean out that jet with the carburetor still on the machine so you just take the carburetor off at that point or on those to begin with.
The three kinds that I almost always do this way are the old Briggs, the new Briggs with the plastic carb and most of the Hauyi or the clones of those.
These are almost always easily accessible on mowers, pressure washers, generators.
I think I mentioned that I don't do the handheld stuff anymore so that's not a concern for me and doesn't apply to my carb cleanout procedures
But you can do these also and I have many times. Most of them have the primer bulb with the two screw metal ring that holds it on.
After you pop this off you just lift up the little metering block which gets you to the little cellophane like carb part where the fuel pump check valves are.
I blast that out with carb cleaner spray and usually take the screen out for the little bowl is to remove all the frog crap looking stuff in there and then make sure the plastic is good for that piece or replace it if you have one and then put it back together and this almost always does the trick because most of them are just gummed up in that area.
Sure, if you have a ruptured diaphragm on the other side or a inlet needle that's not opening or closing properly you the more than likely will have to take the carburetor off to get to it but for the simple no starts on a string trim or blower I have done many this way without removing the whole carb.
Let's face it, many of these small handheld engines that come in for not running or not running properly only need the fuel mixtures adjusted because they will run with the choke on but die as soon as you turn the choke off or pull the trigger because weren't really adjusted properly from the factory when they left..
All you have to do is adjust the fuel mixture and the machine is better than new!
However, most shops are going to go ahead and tear the carburetor off and do a rebuild or replace the carburetor at a price of around $79 plus parts at least in my area.
The shops would see that is leaving money on the table if you didn't go ahead and do it etc.
I just don't want to take the time to do those as the small items, as you mentioned earlier, often need more disassembly and stuff so they are more time consuming than a push more, pressure washer, generator so that's what I have streamlined my business model to.
Certain riders are certainly not possible to do because of engine position and such but most riders of zero turns you can also drop the bowl and remove the jet and or emulsion tube and even replace the bowl gasket and the bolt gasket and get them running perfectly.
I have done this many times on the Briggs & Stratton two jet carbs, the Nikki, walbro, Kohler (usually walbro), and the newer MTD built engine (prob Loncin engine).
My main point is there's usually multiple ways of doing something to obtain the same desired results.
I'm not criticizing other people's methods as long as it works for them but I am a little critical of people on YouTube telling people how to do things like there's only one way to do something.
Whatever works for a person is fine but they should be open and pay attention to everything and think outside of the box sometimes.
For instance, I used to really take a Honda carburetor off of a machine because at least 80% of the time or higher when I cleaned out from the bottom and screwed the jet and the tube back in it ran perfectly.
BUT THEN, the percentage rate went way down and I found myself off and having to then remove the carburetor because on the Honda it's way too tedious to get the screw out and very hard to run a wire through the holes inside the bore which is on the engine side so I just started taking the carbs off to start with.
So that one's a gamble.
IF you get lucky since the odds are in your favor and get it running perfectly by just cleaning out the main jet and the bowl from the bottom then you save time.
But if it surges and then you have to take the whole car off to clean out the idle circuit then you've spent more time than if you would have just removed the carb to begin with.
Hondas are the loan case that I see this often enough that it's worth consideration.
On all of the other ones it's not even a decision for me, I work a little harder doing it on the machine but for a far shorter period of time so that's what works for me.
Also, you have to be careful by calling it quick and dirty or whatever but I commend you for not criticizing the whole process or saying it was an inferior way of doing it like some people do.
The only thing that matters is the end result and the longevity of the repair etc because so many people screw up other things in the process even if they do it what they're considering the more correct way by removing the carburetor or even replacing a new carburetor.
Mess up one little thing or forget one step and then the end result is pretty poor.
For instance, there's people out there who will take the carb off and clean it out or put a new carburetor on but totally neglect driving and flushing the fuel tank and if that's a problem you're going to have a nice clean or new carburetor not running properly and clogged up in short order.
Then you have those that don't inspect and replace an old crumbling fuel line and then you have pieces flaking off and clogging up the jets quickly.
Then you have those that are in a hurry, or careless or ape-fisted who strip off bolts or damage or tweak things like springs and such when they remove and replace the carburetor.
T
TobyU
I don't find that many of the YouTube guys use this method but it's all over the place on YouTube and that's why I hate bothering with the videos and don't like it when people go there because they typically do more work than they need to do or mess things up and then can't get it fixed on their own.Ok, so push and self-propelled mowers, and some pressure washers you can do this on. I already know about this method, it’s called the “quick and dirty “ carburetor cleaning method. The bowl gasket is sometimes difficult to line up, just cleaning the main jet and emulsion tube doesn’t always work, it does not apply to handheld equipment, or for that matter some riding and zero turn mowers. I work on not many push and self-propelled mowers in comparison to all different types of equipment. Youtube guys do use the “quick and dirty”. That is how I learned about it years ago.
I find that most YouTube videos take the whole thing apart and lay on the table because you know they are trying to do an instructional video so it's easier to show what's going on if that's what they're trying to do.
I don't call it quick and dirty I will say it's a little bit harder to do but it is faster and I find the results are the same.
As you said, you can't do them all this way as if you have a Honda with a clogged up secondary idle jet it's going to surge after you do this and it's possible but very much too tedious and time-consuming to try to clean out that jet with the carburetor still on the machine so you just take the carburetor off at that point or on those to begin with.
The three kinds that I almost always do this way are the old Briggs, the new Briggs with the plastic carb and most of the Hauyi or the clones of those.
These are almost always easily accessible on mowers, pressure washers, generators.
I think I mentioned that I don't do the handheld stuff anymore so that's not a concern for me and doesn't apply to my carb cleanout procedures
But you can do these also and I have many times. Most of them have the primer bulb with the two screw metal ring that holds it on.
After you pop this off you just lift up the little metering block which gets you to the little cellophane like carb part where the fuel pump check valves are.
I blast that out with carb cleaner spray and usually take the screen out for the little bowl is to remove all the frog crap looking stuff in there and then make sure the plastic is good for that piece or replace it if you have one and then put it back together and this almost always does the trick because most of them are just gummed up in that area.
Sure, if you have a ruptured diaphragm on the other side or a inlet needle that's not opening or closing properly you the more than likely will have to take the carburetor off to get to it but for the simple no starts on a string trim or blower I have done many this way without removing the whole carb.
Let's face it, many of these small handheld engines that come in for not running or not running properly only need the fuel mixtures adjusted because they will run with the choke on but die as soon as you turn the choke off or pull the trigger because weren't really adjusted properly from the factory when they left..
All you have to do is adjust the fuel mixture and the machine is better than new!
However, most shops are going to go ahead and tear the carburetor off and do a rebuild or replace the carburetor at a price of around $79 plus parts at least in my area.
The shops would see that is leaving money on the table if you didn't go ahead and do it etc.
I just don't want to take the time to do those as the small items, as you mentioned earlier, often need more disassembly and stuff so they are more time consuming than a push more, pressure washer, generator so that's what I have streamlined my business model to.
Certain riders are certainly not possible to do because of engine position and such but most riders of zero turns you can also drop the bowl and remove the jet and or emulsion tube and even replace the bowl gasket and the bolt gasket and get them running perfectly.
I have done this many times on the Briggs & Stratton two jet carbs, the Nikki, walbro, Kohler (usually walbro), and the newer MTD built engine (prob Loncin engine).
My main point is there's usually multiple ways of doing something to obtain the same desired results.
I'm not criticizing other people's methods as long as it works for them but I am a little critical of people on YouTube telling people how to do things like there's only one way to do something.
Whatever works for a person is fine but they should be open and pay attention to everything and think outside of the box sometimes.
For instance, I used to really take a Honda carburetor off of a machine because at least 80% of the time or higher when I cleaned out from the bottom and screwed the jet and the tube back in it ran perfectly.
BUT THEN, the percentage rate went way down and I found myself off and having to then remove the carburetor because on the Honda it's way too tedious to get the screw out and very hard to run a wire through the holes inside the bore which is on the engine side so I just started taking the carbs off to start with.
So that one's a gamble.
IF you get lucky since the odds are in your favor and get it running perfectly by just cleaning out the main jet and the bowl from the bottom then you save time.
But if it surges and then you have to take the whole car off to clean out the idle circuit then you've spent more time than if you would have just removed the carb to begin with.
Hondas are the loan case that I see this often enough that it's worth consideration.
On all of the other ones it's not even a decision for me, I work a little harder doing it on the machine but for a far shorter period of time so that's what works for me.
Also, you have to be careful by calling it quick and dirty or whatever but I commend you for not criticizing the whole process or saying it was an inferior way of doing it like some people do.
The only thing that matters is the end result and the longevity of the repair etc because so many people screw up other things in the process even if they do it what they're considering the more correct way by removing the carburetor or even replacing a new carburetor.
Mess up one little thing or forget one step and then the end result is pretty poor.
For instance, there's people out there who will take the carb off and clean it out or put a new carburetor on but totally neglect driving and flushing the fuel tank and if that's a problem you're going to have a nice clean or new carburetor not running properly and clogged up in short order.
Then you have those that don't inspect and replace an old crumbling fuel line and then you have pieces flaking off and clogging up the jets quickly.
Then you have those that are in a hurry, or careless or ape-fisted who strip off bolts or damage or tweak things like springs and such when they remove and replace the carburetor.
#28
T
TobyU
Being critical of the method of repair when you have no information on the results of those repairs.
Maybe in your experience you have seen it work out differently but I thoroughly researched this through observation and personal experience and found that that was the case for me of what you are saying.
There are things you have to look out for like severe resting, pitting, aluminum ox station, crumbling fuel lines which will cause quick return problems.
Sometimes you can't even save a carburetor and it just must be replaced.
However, with the vast majority of these no starts, these conditions aren't present and there is not flaking, crumbling, or a large amount of corrosion etc.
It's simply stale fuel from not taking extra steps before putting one away for the off season.
Now again back to my comment about you may have seen different things that I have because climates very greatly which affect the off-season storage and duration.
In the vast majority of cases I will not agree that this is any way or type of an inferior repair. Everyone is free to have their own opinions though.
I really can't agree with your theory on a long-term repair etc because many if not most of these items are going to run just fine for the rest of that season and then they're going to be right back in the same boat the beginning of the next cutting season because the people will do the exactly the same thing they did that got them in trouble the first time.
The engine started out nice and clean and running fine when it was new.
Something they didn't do properly or at all caused the carburetor to need cleaned out or serviced etc.
No matter how thorough you are or what kind of superior considered repair you do it won't be any better than it was when it was new and almost 100% clean so whatever it is they didn't do it will probably do again and it's just as likely to have problems with your repair as it was when it was brand new so it makes little difference if you simply clean them out.
Again, these have been the facts as I have observed and witnessed them.
Others may have observed things completely differently so have formed different opinions.
It works great for me so I keep on doing it.
People love it, and they also love my much lower prices than all the competition.
So in similarity to your one statement about the half hour labor or something not being worth your reputation.... The extra half an hour labor income to me isn't worth raising the prices to my customers when I get I'm getting the same results for them and the same duration and durability.
My reputation is stellar. Just yesterday another guy showed up and said: "So you're Toby? You've got awesome reviews!'
I said 'Yes, I know. It's a curse'
I have the highest rated lawn mower repair shop in 75+ mile radius and I have the second or maybe it's 3rd now highest number of reviews.
I was number two a couple of years ago for the number of reviews behind a shop that has been open for 43 years currently. They are much larger facility than I with multiple texts etc and there is another large one too that I believe has surpassed my number of reviews now which is to be expected because I am a one-man show doing it all...and even wasting lots of times each day online Facebook and here. Lol
Almost forgot this cracked intake tubes.
That's not very common in my area for some reason.
I don't even get one per season and I did 620 push mowers last year.
I will occasionally get a loose one also but I don't average one per season.
I always check them for tightness though anytime the shroud is off because they're almost always loose.
You can tell the surge from one of those vs a carb surge though and those Briggs carbs on those rarely surge anyway
T
TobyU
And there we have it and just what I expected from someone..So how does this 10 minute fix repair a cracked manifold tube whih is probably the most common cause of older walk behinds with B & S engines surging .
There are lots of Quick & dirty short cuts and most of them are as deplorable and when the flaking corrosion around the main jet come loose a week latter and the mower starts surging again my reputation is down the toilet , or another bit of the grit in the fuel tank ends up blocking the float needle because the mower has no fiter or the accumulated water in the fuel tanks end up back in the carb again or the failing fuel line dumps some more rubber into the carb etc etc etc .
And lets not forget oil leaking out of the dip stick seal .
Now If I was flipping mowers for maximum profit with a tough luck if it stops when you get it home attitude I might adopt these types of practices but my reputation & relationships with my customers is far more important than scamming them for 1/2 hour of labour & doing shoody work.
It takes me about an hour to remove the carb & toss it in the ultra sound , drian & clean the fuel tank, replace the blades , change the engine oil, lube the control cables & wheels . Then rebuild the carb with new parts and put it back on , usually with new fuel lines to boot .
Then I know the mower will work fine today tomorrow next week next month and for the full 6 months that I guarantee my work so they will recommend me to others because they are so happy with my work rather than tlling all their friends than all back yard mower mechanics are shysters .
I replace a lot of Honda main jets because people have tried these sorts of fixes and strip the slot out of the main jet
Being critical of the method of repair when you have no information on the results of those repairs.
Maybe in your experience you have seen it work out differently but I thoroughly researched this through observation and personal experience and found that that was the case for me of what you are saying.
There are things you have to look out for like severe resting, pitting, aluminum ox station, crumbling fuel lines which will cause quick return problems.
Sometimes you can't even save a carburetor and it just must be replaced.
However, with the vast majority of these no starts, these conditions aren't present and there is not flaking, crumbling, or a large amount of corrosion etc.
It's simply stale fuel from not taking extra steps before putting one away for the off season.
Now again back to my comment about you may have seen different things that I have because climates very greatly which affect the off-season storage and duration.
In the vast majority of cases I will not agree that this is any way or type of an inferior repair. Everyone is free to have their own opinions though.
I really can't agree with your theory on a long-term repair etc because many if not most of these items are going to run just fine for the rest of that season and then they're going to be right back in the same boat the beginning of the next cutting season because the people will do the exactly the same thing they did that got them in trouble the first time.
The engine started out nice and clean and running fine when it was new.
Something they didn't do properly or at all caused the carburetor to need cleaned out or serviced etc.
No matter how thorough you are or what kind of superior considered repair you do it won't be any better than it was when it was new and almost 100% clean so whatever it is they didn't do it will probably do again and it's just as likely to have problems with your repair as it was when it was brand new so it makes little difference if you simply clean them out.
Again, these have been the facts as I have observed and witnessed them.
Others may have observed things completely differently so have formed different opinions.
It works great for me so I keep on doing it.
People love it, and they also love my much lower prices than all the competition.
So in similarity to your one statement about the half hour labor or something not being worth your reputation.... The extra half an hour labor income to me isn't worth raising the prices to my customers when I get I'm getting the same results for them and the same duration and durability.
My reputation is stellar. Just yesterday another guy showed up and said: "So you're Toby? You've got awesome reviews!'
I said 'Yes, I know. It's a curse'
I have the highest rated lawn mower repair shop in 75+ mile radius and I have the second or maybe it's 3rd now highest number of reviews.
I was number two a couple of years ago for the number of reviews behind a shop that has been open for 43 years currently. They are much larger facility than I with multiple texts etc and there is another large one too that I believe has surpassed my number of reviews now which is to be expected because I am a one-man show doing it all...and even wasting lots of times each day online Facebook and here. Lol
Almost forgot this cracked intake tubes.
That's not very common in my area for some reason.
I don't even get one per season and I did 620 push mowers last year.
I will occasionally get a loose one also but I don't average one per season.
I always check them for tightness though anytime the shroud is off because they're almost always loose.
You can tell the surge from one of those vs a carb surge though and those Briggs carbs on those rarely surge anyway
#29
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Goes like this Toby
You probably do it very well because you know whay you are doing and why you are doing it
If you are very experienced then like a lot of us you can almost do a diagnosis from the sounds the engine makes .
I like to diagnose first then do a repair of the problem, not the symptoms .
For me working on a carb in situ is a lot more difficult because of restricted access in most cases.
And like you I mostly work on walk behinds by standing them up on their back wheels on a stand at a convienant height
For me turning a carb over and looking at it is a lot easier than doing a contortionist twist sideways .
And as I mentioned a lot of the screw in jets have been chewed up by people using the wrong screwdriver.
You are correct that each different type of carb requires a different method but I for one would not be happy to send out any carb that after being diagnosed as needing a clean was not fully dissasembled .
I do see a lot of carbs with clogged primary air passages full of corrosion that have to be mechanically cleaned
If you look at the side of the can of carb cleaner you will note it says "throttle body carb cleaner"
Its one & only job is to soften and remove carbon & gum deposits not corrosion and galvanic debris
Next the air passages should always be blown out backwards as all of them get smaller towards the engine end so "blasting " them from the air filter end can embed the debris so hard that it is near impossible to remove
Now what come through a workshop door will vary depending upon the local grasss & climate
I get a lot of galvanic corrosion and to a lesser extent degraded fuel line debris followed by dust & grass debris
I buy my intake manifolds in batches fo 50 and go through them in about 2 years .
As for cube carbs since I learned to pressure test the tank, cap & lines before I touch the carb the number of carb strips has dropped 30 to 50 percent
The amount of time required to clean around them to the point that one could be pulled apart in situ without introducing a lot of dirt is about 10 times what it takes to pull one off.
I am yet to find one more than 5 years old where the metering diaphragm that has not stiffened and to clean the inernal filter you have to reverse flush it via the needle jet
Blasting the screen from the pump side will obviously blow some if not all of the fine particles it is there to stop through the screen .
Considering a GnD kit is 50¢ direct from the makers there is no excuse for not replacing both of them.
Then to make a proper seal on the old hardened gaskets the screws have to be over tightened which on the single bolt Zamas can distort the pump cover
I probably replace about 1 in 20 of those for that reason
And again the jets on cube carbs need to be back flushed
We obviously have totally different philosophies
I like to do jobs completely so every thing that leaves here is as good as I can make it run.
If for no other reason I warrant my work and most people will not undertand that the pump diaphragm I fixed tody has nothing to do with the jet that blocked up 2 months latter on.
And because my work is so good I have a massive back log that wil not be cleared up till well into winter
Right now I have 8 repairs in the shop right now, five services to pick up next week and 16 repairs waiting to be picked up inthe off season so I can do the job properly .
What I do not want or need is to have anything come back for a 2nd, 3rd or 4th repair .
And I enjoy working on engines
If my one & only mission was to make the maximum amount of mney in the least possible time then I would not waste my time repairing lawn equipment
You probably do it very well because you know whay you are doing and why you are doing it
If you are very experienced then like a lot of us you can almost do a diagnosis from the sounds the engine makes .
I like to diagnose first then do a repair of the problem, not the symptoms .
For me working on a carb in situ is a lot more difficult because of restricted access in most cases.
And like you I mostly work on walk behinds by standing them up on their back wheels on a stand at a convienant height
For me turning a carb over and looking at it is a lot easier than doing a contortionist twist sideways .
And as I mentioned a lot of the screw in jets have been chewed up by people using the wrong screwdriver.
You are correct that each different type of carb requires a different method but I for one would not be happy to send out any carb that after being diagnosed as needing a clean was not fully dissasembled .
I do see a lot of carbs with clogged primary air passages full of corrosion that have to be mechanically cleaned
If you look at the side of the can of carb cleaner you will note it says "throttle body carb cleaner"
Its one & only job is to soften and remove carbon & gum deposits not corrosion and galvanic debris
Next the air passages should always be blown out backwards as all of them get smaller towards the engine end so "blasting " them from the air filter end can embed the debris so hard that it is near impossible to remove
Now what come through a workshop door will vary depending upon the local grasss & climate
I get a lot of galvanic corrosion and to a lesser extent degraded fuel line debris followed by dust & grass debris
I buy my intake manifolds in batches fo 50 and go through them in about 2 years .
As for cube carbs since I learned to pressure test the tank, cap & lines before I touch the carb the number of carb strips has dropped 30 to 50 percent
The amount of time required to clean around them to the point that one could be pulled apart in situ without introducing a lot of dirt is about 10 times what it takes to pull one off.
I am yet to find one more than 5 years old where the metering diaphragm that has not stiffened and to clean the inernal filter you have to reverse flush it via the needle jet
Blasting the screen from the pump side will obviously blow some if not all of the fine particles it is there to stop through the screen .
Considering a GnD kit is 50¢ direct from the makers there is no excuse for not replacing both of them.
Then to make a proper seal on the old hardened gaskets the screws have to be over tightened which on the single bolt Zamas can distort the pump cover
I probably replace about 1 in 20 of those for that reason
And again the jets on cube carbs need to be back flushed
We obviously have totally different philosophies
I like to do jobs completely so every thing that leaves here is as good as I can make it run.
If for no other reason I warrant my work and most people will not undertand that the pump diaphragm I fixed tody has nothing to do with the jet that blocked up 2 months latter on.
And because my work is so good I have a massive back log that wil not be cleared up till well into winter
Right now I have 8 repairs in the shop right now, five services to pick up next week and 16 repairs waiting to be picked up inthe off season so I can do the job properly .
What I do not want or need is to have anything come back for a 2nd, 3rd or 4th repair .
And I enjoy working on engines
If my one & only mission was to make the maximum amount of mney in the least possible time then I would not waste my time repairing lawn equipment
#30
T
TobyU
Also, as I mentioned before apparently people's climates and conditions and other factors greatly influence what you will see or what you need to do.
I have been commercially running a shop for 12 years now and I have replaced only 3 intake tubes!!
Rare for me to get a broken one in
I did 620 push mowers in an 8 month period in either 2020 or 2021 so I've done several thousand of them since I opened my doors.
I'm trying to cut back.
I set the limit of 50 in queue last year but I actually ended up with 52 for a bit.
I don't do any pickups or drop offs.
I used to trying to be nice and help people but I can't help everyone and it was aggravating and this isn't my career or main income so I decided to streamline what I do and offer.
I only do 20-22 inch push or self propelled walk behind mowers and occasionally a pressure washer or generator.
I don't do the "cube" carbs for anyone anymore and frankly, for most brands, that's a positive for everyone involved.
Every shop within 50+ miles will change 79.99 plus parts to fix a non starting string trimmer with average bill being 92-115.
Unless it's a Stihl, Echo, Redmax, Shindaiwa or other better grade one, you are better off to clean it up, put it on marketplace and take the first $25 you get for it and put that toward buying a new one.
You will have a working one without waiting 4-6 weeks and you will have more money in your wallet.
Customers being them to me or I can't help them, although I do give lots of free advice on the phone and several have left me 5 star reviews just for doing that.
I have found that when they hear my price for an annual service or just to make it run properly and then get another shop's price.... they get really resourceful and all of a sudden can get it to me or have someone bring it for them. I joke about this weekly with friends.
I clearly said that my way was the harder way due to tediousness and like you said, contortionist moves....but it's faster for me.
My favorite positioning is on a narrow table or on a pickup truck tailgate. Even easier than mower front wheels in air.
I understand the concern for no comebacks but I have had no issues to address this.
In the 12 years, I have had 4 come back shortly after cleaning and one was 2 weeks later when the lady was cutting her brother's yard after cutting hers twice. Said she did the front and was fine and went to do the back and it died. I asked her if she put gas in it and of course the answer was yes... Right before starting it for the back yard.
I asked her to bring me the gas can we the mower.
When she got there I shined my large spotlight into the can and we saw all kinds of water and amoeba looking floaters along with some grass and dirt specs.
So I dumped her tank and pooped the bowl off and flushed a little of my gas through and she was on her way in under 10 mins.
Overall, I'm very happy with the very small % of issues or repeat problems.
Maybe I'm just lucky but I see no reason to change when it's working so well.
I'm not trying to instruct and (especially not on crapTube) to do it my way.
I do know exactly what I'm looking for and can literally remove the parts (bowl, jet, emulsion tube) with my eyes closed. I can even do it blindfolded and what one hand BUT the one hand slows me down considerably.
I think I'll make a "me"tube video disassembling one with one hand tied behind my back and blindfold on. Lol
T
TobyU
No doubt everyone has a different philosophy but as I said before there are many ways to do something to obtain the same desired end result.Goes like this Toby
You probably do it very well because you know whay you are doing and why you are doing it
If you are very experienced then like a lot of us you can almost do a diagnosis from the sounds the engine makes .
I like to diagnose first then do a repair of the problem, not the symptoms .
For me working on a carb in situ is a lot more difficult because of restricted access in most cases.
And like you I mostly work on walk behinds by standing them up on their back wheels on a stand at a convienant height
For me turning a carb over and looking at it is a lot easier than doing a contortionist twist sideways .
And as I mentioned a lot of the screw in jets have been chewed up by people using the wrong screwdriver.
You are correct that each different type of carb requires a different method but I for one would not be happy to send out any carb that after being diagnosed as needing a clean was not fully dissasembled .
I do see a lot of carbs with clogged primary air passages full of corrosion that have to be mechanically cleaned
If you look at the side of the can of carb cleaner you will note it says "throttle body carb cleaner"
Its one & only job is to soften and remove carbon & gum deposits not corrosion and galvanic debris
Next the air passages should always be blown out backwards as all of them get smaller towards the engine end so "blasting " them from the air filter end can embed the debris so hard that it is near impossible to remove
Now what come through a workshop door will vary depending upon the local grasss & climate
I get a lot of galvanic corrosion and to a lesser extent degraded fuel line debris followed by dust & grass debris
I buy my intake manifolds in batches fo 50 and go through them in about 2 years .
As for cube carbs since I learned to pressure test the tank, cap & lines before I touch the carb the number of carb strips has dropped 30 to 50 percent
The amount of time required to clean around them to the point that one could be pulled apart in situ without introducing a lot of dirt is about 10 times what it takes to pull one off.
I am yet to find one more than 5 years old where the metering diaphragm that has not stiffened and to clean the inernal filter you have to reverse flush it via the needle jet
Blasting the screen from the pump side will obviously blow some if not all of the fine particles it is there to stop through the screen .
Considering a GnD kit is 50¢ direct from the makers there is no excuse for not replacing both of them.
Then to make a proper seal on the old hardened gaskets the screws have to be over tightened which on the single bolt Zamas can distort the pump cover
I probably replace about 1 in 20 of those for that reason
And again the jets on cube carbs need to be back flushed
We obviously have totally different philosophies
I like to do jobs completely so every thing that leaves here is as good as I can make it run.
If for no other reason I warrant my work and most people will not undertand that the pump diaphragm I fixed tody has nothing to do with the jet that blocked up 2 months latter on.
And because my work is so good I have a massive back log that wil not be cleared up till well into winter
Right now I have 8 repairs in the shop right now, five services to pick up next week and 16 repairs waiting to be picked up inthe off season so I can do the job properly .
What I do not want or need is to have anything come back for a 2nd, 3rd or 4th repair .
And I enjoy working on engines
If my one & only mission was to make the maximum amount of mney in the least possible time then I would not waste my time repairing lawn equipment
Also, as I mentioned before apparently people's climates and conditions and other factors greatly influence what you will see or what you need to do.
I have been commercially running a shop for 12 years now and I have replaced only 3 intake tubes!!
Rare for me to get a broken one in
I did 620 push mowers in an 8 month period in either 2020 or 2021 so I've done several thousand of them since I opened my doors.
I'm trying to cut back.
I set the limit of 50 in queue last year but I actually ended up with 52 for a bit.
I don't do any pickups or drop offs.
I used to trying to be nice and help people but I can't help everyone and it was aggravating and this isn't my career or main income so I decided to streamline what I do and offer.
I only do 20-22 inch push or self propelled walk behind mowers and occasionally a pressure washer or generator.
I don't do the "cube" carbs for anyone anymore and frankly, for most brands, that's a positive for everyone involved.
Every shop within 50+ miles will change 79.99 plus parts to fix a non starting string trimmer with average bill being 92-115.
Unless it's a Stihl, Echo, Redmax, Shindaiwa or other better grade one, you are better off to clean it up, put it on marketplace and take the first $25 you get for it and put that toward buying a new one.
You will have a working one without waiting 4-6 weeks and you will have more money in your wallet.
Customers being them to me or I can't help them, although I do give lots of free advice on the phone and several have left me 5 star reviews just for doing that.
I have found that when they hear my price for an annual service or just to make it run properly and then get another shop's price.... they get really resourceful and all of a sudden can get it to me or have someone bring it for them. I joke about this weekly with friends.
I clearly said that my way was the harder way due to tediousness and like you said, contortionist moves....but it's faster for me.
My favorite positioning is on a narrow table or on a pickup truck tailgate. Even easier than mower front wheels in air.
I understand the concern for no comebacks but I have had no issues to address this.
In the 12 years, I have had 4 come back shortly after cleaning and one was 2 weeks later when the lady was cutting her brother's yard after cutting hers twice. Said she did the front and was fine and went to do the back and it died. I asked her if she put gas in it and of course the answer was yes... Right before starting it for the back yard.
I asked her to bring me the gas can we the mower.
When she got there I shined my large spotlight into the can and we saw all kinds of water and amoeba looking floaters along with some grass and dirt specs.
So I dumped her tank and pooped the bowl off and flushed a little of my gas through and she was on her way in under 10 mins.
Overall, I'm very happy with the very small % of issues or repeat problems.
Maybe I'm just lucky but I see no reason to change when it's working so well.
I'm not trying to instruct and (especially not on crapTube) to do it my way.
I do know exactly what I'm looking for and can literally remove the parts (bowl, jet, emulsion tube) with my eyes closed. I can even do it blindfolded and what one hand BUT the one hand slows me down considerably.
I think I'll make a "me"tube video disassembling one with one hand tied behind my back and blindfold on. Lol
#31
B
Bange
B
Bange
Retired404
Before the carburetor replacement, did the engine smoke?
Did you replace the carburetor with an original one?
If before the engine smoked and you changed the carburetor for a non-genuine one, you may have entered a second problem, as I don't see how changing a carburetor, even a non-genuine one, can cause oil burning.
If before the engine smoked and you changed the carburetor for another genuine one, it will continue to smoke, because burning oil is not due to carburetion.
Of course, burning oil can interfere with correct carburetion… it just depends on the volume of oil entering the chamber.
Why does oil enter the chamber and burn along with fuel?
There are several reasons: breakage or wear of rings, ovalization of the chamber wall, poor sealing of a valve retainer and, as previously mentioned, damage to the fuel pump diaphragm.
I would spend my time researching the oil entry into the chamber… and start with the fuel pump diaphragm as it is simple to check and replace if necessary.
Not being the diaphragm and you don't have your own knowledge and tools, I recommend a good shop or mechanic.
Carburetion is another issue… I recommend fixing the flare first, once that's fixed, go back and report.
Before the carburetor replacement, did the engine smoke?
Did you replace the carburetor with an original one?
If before the engine smoked and you changed the carburetor for a non-genuine one, you may have entered a second problem, as I don't see how changing a carburetor, even a non-genuine one, can cause oil burning.
If before the engine smoked and you changed the carburetor for another genuine one, it will continue to smoke, because burning oil is not due to carburetion.
Of course, burning oil can interfere with correct carburetion… it just depends on the volume of oil entering the chamber.
Why does oil enter the chamber and burn along with fuel?
There are several reasons: breakage or wear of rings, ovalization of the chamber wall, poor sealing of a valve retainer and, as previously mentioned, damage to the fuel pump diaphragm.
I would spend my time researching the oil entry into the chamber… and start with the fuel pump diaphragm as it is simple to check and replace if necessary.
Not being the diaphragm and you don't have your own knowledge and tools, I recommend a good shop or mechanic.
Carburetion is another issue… I recommend fixing the flare first, once that's fixed, go back and report.