hydro-gear problems

[bertsmobile1]

I sent an email to get a price for the Hydro-Gear 400506 356-0510 Trans axle. The reply was--NO LONGER AVAILABLE! I assume that they still have some parts???

So you send them another email asking what you can do to get around this .
Make sure you send them the full model & serial numbers of your mower
I have bought parts from them in the past because full US retail + freight is still cheaper than Australian wholesale by quite a long way

 

[StarTech]

I sent an email to get a price for the Hydro-Gear 400506 356-0510 Trans axle. The reply was--NO LONGER AVAILABLE! I assume that they still have some parts???

Yes most of the parts are still available. Here is the IPL for the HG 400506

 

[fred93]

I went to the Sears Parts website. I got into their chat and they said that they have the trans axle. The cost including shipping & tax would be $826.46. So the situation that I have is do I buy a new unit or do I try to rebuild the unit that I have??? I actually have two units at this point and one other unit that is all apart. Decisions, decisions!!!

 

[StarTech]

I wonder if Sears actually told you the truth. They have lied to me several times lately about having the parts and when I order the parts, acouple weeks later they tell they don't have the parts after all. Until someone goes and puts their little greedy hands on one I would take what they said with a grain of salt.

 

[Berniebac]

I always run the mower wide open when cutting but when I stop I turn off the blades and I put the engine at idle. I do not pull anything with the mower. I have a golf cart to pull a small trailer. See pix for the property. I do not have a lot of dust while cutting the grass--just a lot of grass clippings, which I vacuum off after cutting the grass.View attachment 65437View attachment 65437View attachment 65439View attachment 65455

Beautiful property!!!!!

 

[grumpyunk]

Fred, have you done the test(park on a hill...)? You may want to try changing the working fluid, most likely 20W50 motor oil. The 'VI' used in the oil can break down, and the viscosity at temperature may be too low for effective use. Some units are equipped with filters, so I would check if you have done, and perhaps consider replacing if equipped along with changing the fluid.
If worn out completely, the input pulley on top generally has a fan built in. If the trans is covered with clippings or debris, it can hinder airflow used to keep the temperature within reason. The clippings etc should be removed on a regular basis if there is a buildup. It might pay to check the linkage for wear and looseness as that will affect control, and getting the unit into actual 'neutral', where it is not dead-head pumping while sitting still.(causes heat)
When I had a hydro, I used the shift control lever to slow down on hills rather than the brake pedal. If you do use the brake pedal, you also are disconnecting the power input to the trans, and it is no longer pumping fluid... again, could cause overheat.
If you get the mount dimensions and the shift control linkage setup, you should be able to find a substitute trans that would be a mostly 'bolt-in' replacement. (if you cannot find an exact replacement) Many have the same mount dimensions and the same linkage, making swapping in another unit/brand not super difficult.
tom

 

[TobyU]

Hills, rough crammy use, low engine speed, and poor cooling from debris and build up is what kills hydros.

Far too many people make the mistake of mowing for an hour plus and getting their engine and transmission up to full operating temperatures and then when they're done mowing they will turn off the blades and then they will lower the engine speed down when they drive it back to their barn or shed. This is a terrible thing to do!
You spike the temperature severely.

If the mower is mowing or even just moving, it needs to be at full operating speed.
It would also be nice to check it with an RPM gauge to make sure it's at the proper speed which is probably around 3,200 RPM maybe closer to 3400.
Then you need to make sure there's no build up around the fence on top of the hydro near the cooling fan as that can get highly built up with grass and grimy stuff.
Then the last thing is you need to drive it like it's a Cadillac and you're not wanting to spill your beer!
I had a guy bring me a crash from one time with a bad transmission making a whining sound and I told him he usually don't see that unless people slam it forward in reverse very quickly.

He says.. oh..
Then proceeds to show me where he had cut the little plastic notch out of the right side speed handle selector because it was slowing him down getting from reverse to forward!!!
So they're not made to pop willie's, or pull shrubs out of the ground or even tow those little lawn carts.

Just having hills and inclines are bad enough for their life expectancy.
I really hate them but they are so user friendly and people like them I often tell people that have a five or six speed to never use an automatic or hydromower because then they will hate theirs and never want to use it again.
The old speeded ones and the MTD double sheave pulley are darn near bulletproof and you'll usually break a belt before you will damage the transmission but not the case with hydros..

 

[TobyU]

I see now where there was a post someone saying they mow and when they get done they turn off their blades and lower the engine speed to idle. This is just asking for trouble so everyone needs to stop doing it.
Just because one, or a few people have been doing it for decades on multiple machines and have not had any transmission failures does not mean it's not bad on the machines. It's a terrible practice.

Just like people who tout synthetic oil in their car saying I got over 250,000 miles on my car and never had any internal engine repairs....
Well, guess what?? You could have probably used standard mineral oil and still had 250,000 MI on that engine because car engine simply got a whole lot better over the years up until recently.
They make claims and statements like they are scientific fact but there has been no scientific method or laboratory or actually controlled test done at all so their specific experience means nothing and forecasting the future or for others.

 

[Kenneth]

I see now where there was a post someone saying they mow and when they get done they turn off their blades and lower the engine speed to idle. This is just asking for trouble so everyone needs to stop doing it.
Just because one, or a few people have been doing it for decades on multiple machines and have not had any transmission failures does not mean it's not bad on the machines. It's a terrible practice.

Just like people who tout synthetic oil in their car saying I got over 250,000 miles on my car and never had any internal engine repairs....
Well, guess what?? You could have probably used standard mineral oil and still had 250,000 MI on that engine because car engine simply got a whole lot better over the years up until recently.
They make claims and statements like they are scientific fact but there has been no scientific method or laboratory or actually controlled test done at all so their specific experience means nothing and forecasting the future or for others.

Not the op, but I just learned something here! Why is this not in the owners manual? For years I thought I was just cooling it down for the ride back. And lowering the noise too, a double win! Lol, live and learn. You guys are the best

 

[grumpyunk]

To echo a bit of what Toby said, I used to run my engine at 'lower than notch' speed.... I was talking to a co-worker, and he said, and I quote: "Don't baby it. Run it at top speed. That is what it was designed to do." I will add that running at idle or slower speeds will also cut down on the oil splash lubrication to the moving parts, which in turn will reduce the oil ability to absorb heat and carry it away to the sump to be dissipated through the pan, walls, etc. If full pressure oiling, with lowered RPM, you get less flow to the bearings and through the filter. All that was a good enough argument for me to NOT run at idle, and run at full-tilt-boogie when mowing. I do not know how well one engine runs at idle as I have never used it.
tom