Hustler Super Z with FH721V - leaking oil- engine replacement?

[Rivets]

Ok, I’ll try to remember each of the steps in order. I’m assuming you have removed the engine.
1. TAKE YOUR TIME AND HAVE THE PATIENCE OF YOUR MOTHER.
2. List of tools. Sharp scratch awl, large and small flat head screwdrivers, ballpeen hammer, rough and extra fine abrasive paper, plastic wrap, (I use something different, but this works in the field) assembly lube, and special tool, (I’ll get into this later)
3. Remove the shroud and flywheel. Take a picture of each seal to reference how deep to drive the new seal back in.
4. Tip the engine over and support it so the crankcase cover is up. Might want to clean the cover before doing this.
5. With the rough abrasive paper clean the PTO end of the crankshaft until shiny And smooth. Repeat with the extra fine abrasive. You want it as smooth as a babies bottom.
6. Wipe clean with soft cloth and what ever cleaner you prefer.
7. Take the scratch awl and pound a hole into the metal portion of the seal.
8. Drive your small screwdriver into this hole and leverage the seal out. Think of a seesaw and lever, might need to find something to put under the screwdriver to act as a fulcrum. Also, might have to switch to a medium or large screwdriver. This is where patience comes in, as some seals can get very tight. Your seal has been ruined so don’t worry about more damage to it. YOU WANT TO AVOID DAMAGING THE AREA OF THE COVER WHERE THE NEW SEAL CONTACTS.
9. Once the seal is out wipe the crankshaft clean and now resand the shaft again with fine paper. Wipe clean again.
10. Now wrap the area of the crankshaft, wear the New seal will come in contact with, with plastic wrap. ClingWrap works best, ask your better half.coat this wrap liberally with assembly lube. I like assembly lube because it is halfway between oil and grease, but messy.
11. Now the special tool, I made. I took a piece of galvanized pipe, 1” ID and cut off an 8” length. Completely demurred both ends, inside and outside, until it wouldn’t catch a piece of Kleenex. I want it smooth. Once you have completed this you now have a bearing and seal driver which will fit over the shaft.
12. Coat the new seal liberally with assembly lube and slide it down the shaft. The lube and wrap will protect it for being cut it you’ve done everything right and go slow. Push down by hand until it stops and then drive it into place with your driver and hammer. Once it is in place slowly and carefully remove the wrap and wipe the area clean.
13. Repeat on the other side.

Like I said earlier, I done it this way more times than I want to count. I’ve probably got a dozen different drivers I’ve made for different size seals and bearings. Sometimes this is the only way it can be done. Whether you decide to try it is up to you, and I won’t feel hurt if you decide to open the engine. Because I’ve done it so many times, I no longer think about try to open things up and driving the seals out, take to much time. Good Luck in your decision and I’ll now wait for someone to tell me I’m stupid for trying this hack job. If you have more questions about this feel free to ask.

 

[StarTech]

Just had good you are at replacing the following seal while the engine is still assemble when you only have 3mm or less of space to work with?

 

[Rivets]

Is this an April Fools joke? Even you know a governor shaft seal that size cannot be done using my method. I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve had to replace that seal. Nice try though.

 

[StarTech]

I only replaced about 12 in the last five years here.

And for two crank seal I would something with an OD nearly large as the seal OD. One is 48mm and the other 62mm on FH721V. And I am pretty sure 1 inch ID is 25.4mm so it wont fit over the nearly 35mm journals of the crankshaft.

 

[Rivets]

Ok, did you read my entire post? I said I have maybe a dozen different size drivers I’ve made. When I get a chance I clean the outside of each driver and label them with the appropriate ID size. I would figure if you’re experienced enough to tackle this job, you’re smart enough to change the size of driver needed. Are you trying to be Korik and get under my hide. It’s my method for replacing seals, if you don’t like it don’t use it. The OP asked how I did and I posted it for him and anyone else who might want to try it. By the way, instead of ClingWrap, I use a microfiche card, but most people have no idea what that is. Is there something wrong with that too?

 

[StarTech]

No problem and no your not stupid; just wise. It just read more like you were suggesting using an one inch pipe for his project. Now of course he will find out it wont work if he don't check the journal before trying. And yes I am constantly making my own arbors too.

Rivet, you got to remember one thing I am currently very busy as my Spring start up seasoon is early this year so if you can forgive me if I am irritating for I don't mean to be.

And boy I haven't seen microfiche film in years. Just telling off just how old you made me feel. What was suggest to me was to use electrical tape to wrap the shafts. But I don't think that will work on the step shaft.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Usual method for doing it in situ is to drill 2 or 3 very small holes in the seal being careful not to scratch the crank or drill into the crankcase
Then put some long self tappers into the holes and use them with a claw hammer to pull the seals out .
Once out polish the shaft will well lubricated steel wool 0 , 00 or 000 grade ( from the wood work section )
Wrap the shaft with cling wrap when putting the new seal in to avoid cutting the lip on the sharp edge of the keyway

 

[Rivets]

I don’t have the time to look up shaft sizes, so just figured a 7/8” size. That’s why I posted that I have many drivers. Even have one for 3” seals on a tractor PTO. My little brother machinist makes them for me. I have used tape in the field, when it was all I had on an odd size seal. Messy cleanup. You think you’re old, when I started we didn’t even have microfiche, had only the 3” thick IPL books. At times I wish I still had them, only have about a dozen back at the shop I retired from. I‘m happy the owner allows me to borrow them when ever I need them, which is about 6 times a year. Yes, I love to work on the old stuff, two years ago I had fun getting a Briggs Model 6 running again. Should have seen the grin on the guys face, felt guilty charging him anything,

 

[StarTech]

That all I ever had access to until about 12 yrs ago when things went to Acrobat files.

As for pullers I made my own as the crappy ones from the local auto parts store fail the very first time I used it.

 

[driveguy]

well. i went the adventurous route (i.e. the cam and crank are now in bags sitting on the workbench). It only took about 2 hours to break the whole engine down. I will be ordering all the gaskets and seals this week.

Any suggestions on how to get the oil cooler mounting "joint" off? it's pretty stuck. anyone know if it's 25mm or 1" or ? reverse or regular threads?