Husqvarna YTH1842 compression issue?

[StarTech]

The owner indicated he had problems getting it started. With Electric start and new starting components it should be able to Crank, then Start.

Even new components if the ACR failed, the valves are way out adjust, or other electrical it still can crank to the compression zone and stop. Briggs starters are too weak to handle 150 psi +.

 

[StarTech]

As there is a better than average chance I will be the next person to remve the rocker cover I never ever use silicon on them
Even the ones that were siliconed from new
And the customer pays for the gasket in any case .

Well I do use it per the Briggs APSI bulletin. And it is not that hard to remove the rocker covers if RTV in place. All you got to do is to shear the covers off and a little clean up afterwards. And it is a heck alot better than those Kohler cork gaskets on the Courage single engines.

Either with a gasket or RTV the customer pays for the materials.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Some of the big shops around me won't crack an engine open. Labor at $100/hr and 5-6 hours to remove, diassemble, clean, inspect, replace parts, reassemble, reinstall and WARRANTY the engine makes it more cost efficent to replace the engine. I am probably half what a big shop charges but that is still more than some folks is reasonsble. I like to change the head gasket at the same time so it winds up being head, valve cover and case gasket, oil filter and oil, spark plug and camshaft at a minimum for parts. It probably needs an air filter and fuel filter, the blades sharpened, the deck scraped out and the front end greased. So the $100 camshaft turns into $500 or more to get it "mow ready".

 

[cbr7380]

LOL got it home today everyone and guess what it was? The stupid seat safety switch was shorting out! Runs like new now FK them and their "$400" resolution

 

[jbugj]

I guess we're probably all at a loss when compression was talked about, and the problem ends up being a seat safety switch...

 

[StarTech]

See that what we get when we don't get a good of the actual problem and just what some shop said it was.

And we actually needed the 9 digit model number as there are several versions of this model.

 

[mmoffitt]

It usually take at least two hours to do the job. Actually changing out the camshaft only takes 45mins to 1 hour it is the other things that makes the job longer such as removing and installing the engine.

The OEM camshaft currently is about $90 plus gaskets and oil. Then you are paying shop rate on labor. Around most Brick and Mortar shops are around $100 per hr; even I am at $65 per hr. When a DIYer does the job he usually not counting his labor as part of the cost to repair. (Nor does the IRS)

Take the Z925A I am working on. Replaced three engine mounting screws. Disassemble the engine yesterday which took over two hours as I had remove other body parts just to get to the #1 cylinder head. On top that the muffler will have to be replaced. It will probably take 5 hrs to do the job. I am only charging out 4 hrs labor and the job is still $751 with taxes. At least he didn't need a cylinder head.

Sorry things are not priced at the 1960's prices as I just got hit a large price increase from the OEM on parts alone.

 

[mmoffitt]

Not sure how any of you guys can stay in business...you are getting hammered from all sides....65-72 dollars?? an hour here on long Island no one is charging less than 100...with prices going up from there...and I mean up!!!! Try haggling with your doctor...everyone wants it done yesterday for nothing!! I really appreciate the wisdom that is given here so freely and for FREE I have learned a lot from these masters!
Thanks Happy Easter season to all now go raise some prices.. no this AIN'T the SIXTIES anymore!

 

[VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ]

A failed ACR (Automatic Compression Release) should not prevent it from Starting. It only assists starting by lowering the compression for Manual start. Set the valves 0.005" or as close as possible and try it. If that fails, I would recommend changing the Plugs and then the Coil.

So wrong to give this advise. in fact engines are made cheaper by design by using ACR or a cam lobe pre TDC lift so that a cheaper battery and starter and smaller cables and charging system can be used. If no compression release is done the system will have a very hard time cranking past TDC or not at all. I total truth, your statement is correct, that it will run but getting 300rpm cranking speed to get spark is the key to starting and unlikely at full compression even with a jump. That said, every engine model has it's design and compression and quality starting system and battery support and cable size, but seldom enough to defeat my statements.

 

[VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ]

See that what we get when we don't get a good of the actual problem and just what some shop said it was.

And we actually needed the 9 digit model number as there are several versions of this model.

Part of the problem is just that, insufficient or inaccurate diagnostics and symptoms up front with little identity of product. Hard to get these facts clear in writing. In fact the first post needs to be precise for me to bother unless I see a train wreck in the responses