Husqvarna YTH 2348 - Bringing it back to life

[StarTech]

917.289571 (YTH 2348) - Craftsman Yard Tractor (2010-04) And according to the serial it is a 2010 model. According the Craftsman owners manual it came with a B&S Model . 445577-1187-B1 engine.​

 

[benaford]

917.289571 (YTH 2348) - Craftsman Yard Tractor (2010-04) And according to the serial it is a 2010 model. According the Craftsman owners manual it came with a B&S Model . 445577-1187-B1 engine.​

Ok, another dumb question - "Craftsman Yard Tractor"? Is this a situation where the manufacturer just label slaps different brands on the same tractor?

 

[ILENGINE]

Briggs model numbers should be stamp3d into the metal OHV valve cover. On V twin the one without fuel pump

 

[benaford]

Got it:

• Model: 445577
• Type: 1187 B1
• Code: 091114YG

(Confirming what StarTech correctly pointed out earlier in this thread. Kudos.)

 

[benaford]

Last night, I pulled off the rest of the guards and housings around the engine block for cleaning. I also pulled the fuel tank (no easy task!) and flushed it out. There was quite a bit of gunk - even an entire leaf - not sure how that got in the fuel tank. I pressure washed and scrubbed down the engine and frame an then wiped down to get rid of excess water.

Here's a picture of the before and after.

I'm getting ready to start putting everything back together, but I was wondering if there's something I can spray or pour into the intakes or spark plug holes to clean out internal corrosion and buildup left by water getting into there. Maybe just put a shop vac on there and try to pull out loose debris?



Thanks -

 

[Davisrf]

New poster here. I've enjoyed reading this forum over the years, but never made any posts, but I'm in need of some advice.

Background: A few years ago, I bought a Husqvarna YTH2348 with a Briggs engine for $500 from a guy who was moving away and needed to offload it. Right up front, he told me that it would not start without a shot of starter fluid, and that was true. It never started easily. I used the mower for grass cutting and leaf mulching for two seasons and then it just stopped starting all together. I attempted to rebuild the carb, but I could never get it to start and run again. I ran out of time an mental bandwidth to keep messing with such a fussy mower. Fast forward three years, the mower has been sitting idle, gathering dirt and rust under my deck because I just never got the energy tackle the repair.

Now, to the present day. I've decided to either get this thing running again or sell it as salvage. I pulled the hood, seat, and removed the deck and pressure washed the dirt and debris from the chassis. Then I parked it in my garage where I can spend time cleaning and digging into the motor. Yesterday, I pulled the carburetor, spark plugs (2), fuel pump, coils (2), valve covers (2), battery and starter. My plan is to work through a troubleshooting flowchart beginning with battery and working my way through the ignition system.

Engine Start Troubleshooting Flow:
1. Battery voltage: yes/no
2. Spark plugs: firing yes/no
3. Coils multimeter check: within range yes/no
4. Fuel pump pushing gas: yes/no
5. Carburetor (after getting a rebuild) sending fuel: yes/no

What else should be in my troubleshooting process? Should I remove the flywheel and sand it down? It's very rusty - see images.

Images

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer. I've seen quite a few posts on here about this particular mower, but none about bringing one back from the dead. I thought it might be an interesting thread for someone else down the line.

So lets go back to your # 1 - # 5 steps. You don'tg need to test the coil if the spark plugs are sparking blue (indicating enough high voltgage from the coil) , If no spark or not blue, replace the coil. So, # 1 - 4 is easy to check, and make sure they are all ok. # 5, seeing how you have taken the carb apart, put it back together, doesn't work then buy a new carg. But yes, be sure that the butterfly is shutting on the original carb, so you get full choke, before you buy a new carb. Also make sure that the accelerator linkage is not causing the idle to be too high. Let us know what the solution is. good luck

 

[StarTech]

Just the color of the spark can vary depending on the chemical make of the surrounding air. For example in Hawaii the spark are usually bright orange due the salt (sodium) content of the air.

And just because you get a good spark outside the compression zone doesn't mean everything is fine. I have good sparks due still have no fire in the cylinder. Usually good spark outside is good but are rare occasions that it is not.

 

[Shoesole]

Or you could simply pull a spark plug, hook up the plug wire to it and ground the plug body, spin the engine over and see if the plug sparks. Very simple way to check for spark. Also, I notice that nobody (unless I missed it) has suggested that a compression test be done.....If it won't fire off with starting fluid, then you either most likely have no spark or no compression.... And, of course you could also have a sheared flywheel key, happens all the time....Which results in no spark or spark at the wrong time.

 

[Freddie21]

Good list, but keep it basic. Start by checking, and maybe, changing the oil. Clean the gas tank and replace fuel filter and lines, if necessary. See if pump will pump gas at the carb. Check for spark then prime with cleaner to see if it sputters. Clean the side of the flywheel and coil with sandpaper or brush. Set the coil gap. Replace the plug. If it sputters with cleaner thru carb, then remove carb, clean all internal and external parts with carb cleaner and air. Run small wires thru all jets nd openings. Clean again and blow with air. Replace carb with new gaskets. See what happens.

 

[Air4Dave]

Boy, you've got a lot to deal with now but...with cost of new mowers these days, the old ones are worth putting SOME money into, but be careful to take stock of the entire mower's condition: is the deck itself in good working order (pulleys free, deck wheels, blade spindles spin smoothly, and belt usable), how is the steering linkages as to alignment and not too worn, front wheel bearings good?, and the seat, starter engages, and tires. Carbs are comparably cheap nowadays but make sure you get the number off the carb! Replace the plugs and air cleaner. The battery needs to be replaced after that long - do yourself a favor here! By all means, clean up that flywheel and adjust the gap. Change the fuel and filter. After replacing the above mentioned, see if it will start and run...it should if you've done the above AND, like a previous poster said...make sure the throttle cable fully closes the choke! If it runs, then go ahead and change the oil and filter. Hopefully, for less than $200 you can get it running and working again!