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Husqvarna YTH 2348 - Bringing it back to life
#1
benaford
benaford
New poster here. I've enjoyed reading this forum over the years, but never made any posts, but I'm in need of some advice.
Background: A few years ago, I bought a Husqvarna YTH2348 with a Briggs engine for $500 from a guy who was moving away and needed to offload it. Right up front, he told me that it would not start without a shot of starter fluid, and that was true. It never started easily. I used the mower for grass cutting and leaf mulching for two seasons and then it just stopped starting all together. I attempted to rebuild the carb, but I could never get it to start and run again. I ran out of time an mental bandwidth to keep messing with such a fussy mower. Fast forward three years, the mower has been sitting idle, gathering dirt and rust under my deck because I just never got the energy tackle the repair.
Now, to the present day. I've decided to either get this thing running again or sell it as salvage. I pulled the hood, seat, and removed the deck and pressure washed the dirt and debris from the chassis. Then I parked it in my garage where I can spend time cleaning and digging into the motor. Yesterday, I pulled the carburetor, spark plugs (2), fuel pump, coils (2), valve covers (2), battery and starter. My plan is to work through a troubleshooting flowchart beginning with battery and working my way through the ignition system.
Engine Start Troubleshooting Flow:
1. Battery voltage: yes/no
2. Spark plugs: firing yes/no
3. Coils multimeter check: within range yes/no
4. Fuel pump pushing gas: yes/no
5. Carburetor (after getting a rebuild) sending fuel: yes/no
What else should be in my troubleshooting process? Should I remove the flywheel and sand it down? It's very rusty - see images.
Images
Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer. I've seen quite a few posts on here about this particular mower, but none about bringing one back from the dead. I thought it might be an interesting thread for someone else down the line.
Background: A few years ago, I bought a Husqvarna YTH2348 with a Briggs engine for $500 from a guy who was moving away and needed to offload it. Right up front, he told me that it would not start without a shot of starter fluid, and that was true. It never started easily. I used the mower for grass cutting and leaf mulching for two seasons and then it just stopped starting all together. I attempted to rebuild the carb, but I could never get it to start and run again. I ran out of time an mental bandwidth to keep messing with such a fussy mower. Fast forward three years, the mower has been sitting idle, gathering dirt and rust under my deck because I just never got the energy tackle the repair.
Now, to the present day. I've decided to either get this thing running again or sell it as salvage. I pulled the hood, seat, and removed the deck and pressure washed the dirt and debris from the chassis. Then I parked it in my garage where I can spend time cleaning and digging into the motor. Yesterday, I pulled the carburetor, spark plugs (2), fuel pump, coils (2), valve covers (2), battery and starter. My plan is to work through a troubleshooting flowchart beginning with battery and working my way through the ignition system.
Engine Start Troubleshooting Flow:
1. Battery voltage: yes/no
2. Spark plugs: firing yes/no
3. Coils multimeter check: within range yes/no
4. Fuel pump pushing gas: yes/no
5. Carburetor (after getting a rebuild) sending fuel: yes/no
What else should be in my troubleshooting process? Should I remove the flywheel and sand it down? It's very rusty - see images.
Images
Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer. I've seen quite a few posts on here about this particular mower, but none about bringing one back from the dead. I thought it might be an interesting thread for someone else down the line.
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Checking coil with multi meter NO. Today’s coils cannot be tested with a multi meter. After you reassemble everything, make sure that you throttle control cable is completely closing the choke butterfly. Can’t count the hard starting problem is caused by a cable which is not completely closing the choke on startup. Let us knew what you find.
#3
benaford
benaford
Wow, I didn't realize that you can't test these with a meter. What about videos like this one ? I've used multimeter to test coils on my pushmower - they aren't new but definitely not ancient.
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Any ignition system which does not have points has a Hall Effect trigger embedded in the coil. You need a very, very $$$$ piece of equipment to test them. I know that everything you see on U-tube videos is the absolute truth, but this is the one time those idiots got it wrong.
#5
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Honda is the only one that I know of that list testing the coils with the meter and gives resistance readings.
#6
benaford
benaford
Any ignition system which does not have points has a Hall Effect trigger embedded in the coil. You need a very, very $$$$ piece of equipment to test them. I know that everything you see on U-tube videos is the absolute truth, but this is the one time those idiots got it wrong.
This part got me laughing out loud - Thanks for the info. I'm learning something every day."I know that everything you see on U-tube videos is the absolute truth..."
#7
benaford
benaford
What is the best way to get a replacement carb that will fit my exact model of mower?
#8
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Post all engine numbers, model, type and code and we should be able to find you an exact replacement.
#9
StarTech
StarTech
First a lot times just the throttle cable needs readjusting as it might not be fully closing the carburetor choke.
And here is some info the new Briggs Magnetron Coils.
The configuration of new Magnetron coil may look like they removed the triggering device but in fact
it is just a redesign. Now to answer your question what is inside the coil.
1 ea 13mm x 34.5mm single sided circuit board.
5 ea SMD transistors.
8 ea SMD resistors, inductors, and/or capacitors.
(SMDs were destroyed upon board removal so actually identification wasn’t possible.)
1 ea D13003 transistor.
Primary Winding reading is 1.5 - 1.7 Ω.
Secondary Winding reading is about 6 KΩ +- several hundred ohms.
The kill terminal is directly connected to the non-ground side of the primary; hence, explains why you
or anyone else can NOT test the primary trigger circuit. Otherwords this means you can not test to find
out if a Magnetron coil is good or not without installing it in most cases unless you have a specialized
coil tester.
The D13003 emitter is connected to non-grounded side of the coil’s primary via two SMD resistors in
parallel with total resistance value of 1.0 Ω. (One these SMD resistors marked with the 1R0 code for a
1.0 Ω resistor was ½ watt size.) The collector is connected the coil’s primary winding that is grounded.
The base is connected to the rest of the trigger circuitry.
The coil’s transformer turns ratio is approximately 1 to 18 with secondary closest to the core.
In theory if the output D13003 transistor should short the collector-emitter junction and the coil’s
primary winding is still good the ohms reading will drop to 0.5 Ω - 0.7 Ω. If the coil’s primary winding
should short then the ohms reading should be near zero. If the coil’s primary winding should open then
the reading will be well above 1.7 Ω. Applying any voltage to the kill terminal would result in either
coil’s primary winding shorting or opening due to high current experienced. And this don't cover other electrical failures.
Applying voltage also can short out the electronics thus making the coil useless. It is also expected that a cold solder joint
connecting the external kill terminal to circuit board would lead to a non kill operation.
Also the high tension lead can be replaced if you wish to fight the glue considering the price of
aftermarket versions of this coil.
This info was acquired through the destruction of the new OEM version of this coil. It also explains the
configuration differences as they have gone to SMD trigger version.
Now for those that wondering why we put diodes in the kill circuit of the dual coil models it because of
the feedback loop created causing one coil to kill the other. This explains why they are destroyed when
12V is applied as these is no built-in reverse bias protection. Now with this in mind you might think
Kohler coils would be the same wiring. Not so as these diodes are incorporated into coil itself thus
preventing many of the problems that the Briggs have because they don’t incorporate these diodes.
And here is some info the new Briggs Magnetron Coils.
The configuration of new Magnetron coil may look like they removed the triggering device but in fact
it is just a redesign. Now to answer your question what is inside the coil.
1 ea 13mm x 34.5mm single sided circuit board.
5 ea SMD transistors.
8 ea SMD resistors, inductors, and/or capacitors.
(SMDs were destroyed upon board removal so actually identification wasn’t possible.)
1 ea D13003 transistor.
Primary Winding reading is 1.5 - 1.7 Ω.
Secondary Winding reading is about 6 KΩ +- several hundred ohms.
The kill terminal is directly connected to the non-ground side of the primary; hence, explains why you
or anyone else can NOT test the primary trigger circuit. Otherwords this means you can not test to find
out if a Magnetron coil is good or not without installing it in most cases unless you have a specialized
coil tester.
The D13003 emitter is connected to non-grounded side of the coil’s primary via two SMD resistors in
parallel with total resistance value of 1.0 Ω. (One these SMD resistors marked with the 1R0 code for a
1.0 Ω resistor was ½ watt size.) The collector is connected the coil’s primary winding that is grounded.
The base is connected to the rest of the trigger circuitry.
The coil’s transformer turns ratio is approximately 1 to 18 with secondary closest to the core.
In theory if the output D13003 transistor should short the collector-emitter junction and the coil’s
primary winding is still good the ohms reading will drop to 0.5 Ω - 0.7 Ω. If the coil’s primary winding
should short then the ohms reading should be near zero. If the coil’s primary winding should open then
the reading will be well above 1.7 Ω. Applying any voltage to the kill terminal would result in either
coil’s primary winding shorting or opening due to high current experienced. And this don't cover other electrical failures.
Applying voltage also can short out the electronics thus making the coil useless. It is also expected that a cold solder joint
connecting the external kill terminal to circuit board would lead to a non kill operation.
Also the high tension lead can be replaced if you wish to fight the glue considering the price of
aftermarket versions of this coil.
This info was acquired through the destruction of the new OEM version of this coil. It also explains the
configuration differences as they have gone to SMD trigger version.
Now for those that wondering why we put diodes in the kill circuit of the dual coil models it because of
the feedback loop created causing one coil to kill the other. This explains why they are destroyed when
12V is applied as these is no built-in reverse bias protection. Now with this in mind you might think
Kohler coils would be the same wiring. Not so as these diodes are incorporated into coil itself thus
preventing many of the problems that the Briggs have because they don’t incorporate these diodes.
#10
benaford
Product: 289571 Model: YTH2348 Serial: 042210A001055 (bottom right hand of tag is another number: 199684)
benaford
I apologize for my ignorance if I'm saying something dumb here, but I looked at the tag under the seat and this is what I have:Post all engine numbers, model, type and code and we should be able to find you an exact replacement.
Product: 289571 Model: YTH2348 Serial: 042210A001055 (bottom right hand of tag is another number: 199684)
#11
StarTech
StarTech
917.289571 (YTH 2348) - Craftsman Yard Tractor (2010-04) And according to the serial it is a 2010 model. According the Craftsman owners manual it came with a B&S Model . 445577-1187-B1 engine.
#12
benaford
benaford
Ok, another dumb question - "Craftsman Yard Tractor"? Is this a situation where the manufacturer just label slaps different brands on the same tractor?917.289571 (YTH 2348) - Craftsman Yard Tractor (2010-04) And according to the serial it is a 2010 model. According the Craftsman owners manual it came with a B&S Model . 445577-1187-B1 engine.
#13
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Briggs model numbers should be stamp3d into the metal OHV valve cover. On V twin the one without fuel pump
#14
benaford
benaford
Got it:
- Model: 445577
- Type: 1187 B1
- Code: 091114YG
#15
benaford
benaford
Last night, I pulled off the rest of the guards and housings around the engine block for cleaning. I also pulled the fuel tank (no easy task!) and flushed it out. There was quite a bit of gunk - even an entire leaf - not sure how that got in the fuel tank. I pressure washed and scrubbed down the engine and frame an then wiped down to get rid of excess water.
Here's a picture of the before and after.
I'm getting ready to start putting everything back together, but I was wondering if there's something I can spray or pour into the intakes or spark plug holes to clean out internal corrosion and buildup left by water getting into there. Maybe just put a shop vac on there and try to pull out loose debris?
Thanks -
Here's a picture of the before and after.
I'm getting ready to start putting everything back together, but I was wondering if there's something I can spray or pour into the intakes or spark plug holes to clean out internal corrosion and buildup left by water getting into there. Maybe just put a shop vac on there and try to pull out loose debris?
Thanks -
#16
D
Davisrf
D
Davisrf
So lets go back to your # 1 - # 5 steps. You don'tg need to test the coil if the spark plugs are sparking blue (indicating enough high voltgage from the coil) , If no spark or not blue, replace the coil. So, # 1 - 4 is easy to check, and make sure they are all ok. # 5, seeing how you have taken the carb apart, put it back together, doesn't work then buy a new carg. But yes, be sure that the butterfly is shutting on the original carb, so you get full choke, before you buy a new carb. Also make sure that the accelerator linkage is not causing the idle to be too high. Let us know what the solution is. good luckNew poster here. I've enjoyed reading this forum over the years, but never made any posts, but I'm in need of some advice.
Background: A few years ago, I bought a Husqvarna YTH2348 with a Briggs engine for $500 from a guy who was moving away and needed to offload it. Right up front, he told me that it would not start without a shot of starter fluid, and that was true. It never started easily. I used the mower for grass cutting and leaf mulching for two seasons and then it just stopped starting all together. I attempted to rebuild the carb, but I could never get it to start and run again. I ran out of time an mental bandwidth to keep messing with such a fussy mower. Fast forward three years, the mower has been sitting idle, gathering dirt and rust under my deck because I just never got the energy tackle the repair.
Now, to the present day. I've decided to either get this thing running again or sell it as salvage. I pulled the hood, seat, and removed the deck and pressure washed the dirt and debris from the chassis. Then I parked it in my garage where I can spend time cleaning and digging into the motor. Yesterday, I pulled the carburetor, spark plugs (2), fuel pump, coils (2), valve covers (2), battery and starter. My plan is to work through a troubleshooting flowchart beginning with battery and working my way through the ignition system.
Engine Start Troubleshooting Flow:
1. Battery voltage: yes/no
2. Spark plugs: firing yes/no
3. Coils multimeter check: within range yes/no
4. Fuel pump pushing gas: yes/no
5. Carburetor (after getting a rebuild) sending fuel: yes/no
What else should be in my troubleshooting process? Should I remove the flywheel and sand it down? It's very rusty - see images.
Images
Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer. I've seen quite a few posts on here about this particular mower, but none about bringing one back from the dead. I thought it might be an interesting thread for someone else down the line.
#17
StarTech
StarTech
Just the color of the spark can vary depending on the chemical make of the surrounding air. For example in Hawaii the spark are usually bright orange due the salt (sodium) content of the air.
And just because you get a good spark outside the compression zone doesn't mean everything is fine. I have good sparks due still have no fire in the cylinder. Usually good spark outside is good but are rare occasions that it is not.
And just because you get a good spark outside the compression zone doesn't mean everything is fine. I have good sparks due still have no fire in the cylinder. Usually good spark outside is good but are rare occasions that it is not.
#18
S
Shoesole
S
Shoesole
Or you could simply pull a spark plug, hook up the plug wire to it and ground the plug body, spin the engine over and see if the plug sparks. Very simple way to check for spark. Also, I notice that nobody (unless I missed it) has suggested that a compression test be done.....If it won't fire off with starting fluid, then you either most likely have no spark or no compression.... And, of course you could also have a sheared flywheel key, happens all the time....Which results in no spark or spark at the wrong time.
#19
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
Good list, but keep it basic. Start by checking, and maybe, changing the oil. Clean the gas tank and replace fuel filter and lines, if necessary. See if pump will pump gas at the carb. Check for spark then prime with cleaner to see if it sputters. Clean the side of the flywheel and coil with sandpaper or brush. Set the coil gap. Replace the plug. If it sputters with cleaner thru carb, then remove carb, clean all internal and external parts with carb cleaner and air. Run small wires thru all jets nd openings. Clean again and blow with air. Replace carb with new gaskets. See what happens.
#20
A
Air4Dave
A
Air4Dave
Boy, you've got a lot to deal with now but...with cost of new mowers these days, the old ones are worth putting SOME money into, but be careful to take stock of the entire mower's condition: is the deck itself in good working order (pulleys free, deck wheels, blade spindles spin smoothly, and belt usable), how is the steering linkages as to alignment and not too worn, front wheel bearings good?, and the seat, starter engages, and tires. Carbs are comparably cheap nowadays but make sure you get the number off the carb! Replace the plugs and air cleaner. The battery needs to be replaced after that long - do yourself a favor here! By all means, clean up that flywheel and adjust the gap. Change the fuel and filter. After replacing the above mentioned, see if it will start and run...it should if you've done the above AND, like a previous poster said...make sure the throttle cable fully closes the choke! If it runs, then go ahead and change the oil and filter. Hopefully, for less than $200 you can get it running and working again!
#21
S
SamB
There are some wonderful people here and will help all they can. Bad attitude will get that door shut. Hard.
btw, Good luck with your mower!
S
SamB
"I apologize for my ignorance if I'm saying something dumb" Posting something in good faith and with a good attitude is never 'dumb'.I apologize for my ignorance if I'm saying something dumb here, but I looked at the tag under the seat and this is what I have:
Product: 289571 Model: YTH2348 Serial: 042210A001055 (bottom right hand of tag is another number: 199684)
There are some wonderful people here and will help all they can. Bad attitude will get that door shut. Hard.
btw, Good luck with your mower!
#22
benaford
benaford
Thanks for that - I really do appreciate all the comments and suggestions. As time permits this week, I'll begin re-assembly and hopefully this will be a successful job. As a former aircraft mechanic (military) turned desk jockey, this has been a fun way to re-engage the hands-on, mechanical side of my brain. It's also been a bonding experience with my sons as we have gotten to walk through the troubleshooting process together. They live in a digital, disposable world where if something breaks you just throw it away and get a new one. The mower project has allowed me to demonstrate the value of being 'handy' and talk them through the basics of combustion engines and how to select and properly use hand tools. Lots of good things have come from this little summer project regardless of whether or not the mower ever runs again. My grandfather was a tremendous mechanic - he could fix anything. He'd spend hours underneath an old sycamore tree in his yard tearing down, cleaning, painting and re-assembling mowers, weedeaters, tillers and tractors. I always looked up to him for his ability to take any old hunk of junk and make it new again. I'm just trying to honor him by passing a little of that down to my boys. Y'all are a big help with keeping this project going."I apologize for my ignorance if I'm saying something dumb" Posting something in good faith and with a good attitude is never 'dumb'.
There are some wonderful people here and will help all they can. Bad attitude will get that door shut. Hard.
btw, Good luck with your mower!
#23
benaford
benaford
Last night I started putting things back together, but I'm stuck. I was putting the starter motor back on and realized that one of the threaded inserts (heli coil) is stripped out where the starter bolt threads into the engine. I can find the bolt part number, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what size heli coil to buy to repair it with. Does anyone know of a way to make sure I'm ordering the correct replacement size?
Thanks -
Thanks -
#24
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
It goes according to bolt size. If you have a 5/16”-18, you will use a 5/16” HeliCoils. 1/4“-20 use 1/4” and 3/8”-16 use 3/8.
#25
J
Joed756
J
Joed756
I recently got an old Scotts mower in with a similar back story. The oil looked good, it was out of gas. Gave it a squirt of brake clean and it popped and sputtered. This told me that everything but fuel delivery was likely OK. I removed the carb and poured rusty water from it. Cleaned the carb real well in about 10 minutes, reinstalled, shot of brake clean and she is running like a top. It cost nothing.
#26
benaford
benaford
Since I didn't have any other way of measuring the bolt size, I went to the 'nuts and bolts' section of my Lowe's and tried sizes until I determined that it's a 5/16". Ordered that size thread repair kit from Amazon and I'll get to work repairing the heli coil insert when it arrives this week.It goes according to bolt size. If you have a 5/16”-18, you will use a 5/16” HeliCoils. 1/4“-20 use 1/4” and 3/8”-16 use 3/8.
#27
benaford
benaford
Update. Still waiting on the heli coil repair kit, so I started getting the other components installed. Yesterday I was able to install the cleaned out fuel tank, new fuel lines, new fuel filter, and new carb. I was putting the valve covers back on and realized that the vacuum tube on the left side valve cover that connects to the fuel pump was severely cracked and split. The IPL lists this part number as 793147, but when I searched for that part number it has a completely different shape/angle the the existing vacuum tube. I don't think it would even work on my tractor. After some digging, I found another option that looks just like the one currently on my tractor, Part # 596163. Ordered it and a new fuel pump (why not?) last night and now I'll have an entirely new fuel system.
Here's the two different parts - see the very different shape:
I also cleaned off and re-installed the coils, heat shields and cleaned/painted the top part of the flywheel to get rid of the rust. Here's a picture of my progress so far:
Front
Left
Right
Carb
Here's the two different parts - see the very different shape:
I also cleaned off and re-installed the coils, heat shields and cleaned/painted the top part of the flywheel to get rid of the rust. Here's a picture of my progress so far:
Front
Left
Right
Carb
#28
C
ccheatha
C
ccheatha
In reading your initial post, my first thought was that I’d start small; instead of putting all the work into tearing it all down, I’d first see if I could pinpoint the startup issue. If I could do that, then I might go into a mode of total clean-up. At any rate, yeah, when you first took ownership and it would only start with a shot of starter, does sound like a fuel flow issue (whether thru the fuel line or carb). Since you stated that there was so much gunk in the gas tank, I’d probably just replace the carb and go from there. Hope it works out for you. I’m kind of like your grandfather; always fixing old mowers, weed eaters, etc. Good luck.
#29
E
Eggbert
E
Eggbert
Remove the flywheel bolt and look to see if the keyway is out of position (sheared or partly sheared).
#30
B
Brucewayne
B
Brucewayne
First I am not a repair person. I had trouble with my mower shutting off. Just as a wild guess I removed the fuel filter and went to my local advanced auto and purchased the same size fuel filter to fit the hose ends. It does not shut off now. The only point is sometimes it is something very simple.New poster here. I've enjoyed reading this forum over the years, but never made any posts, but I'm in need of some advice.
Background: A few years ago, I bought a Husqvarna YTH2348 with a Briggs engine for $500 from a guy who was moving away and needed to offload it. Right up front, he told me that it would not start without a shot of starter fluid, and that was true. It never started easily. I used the mower for grass cutting and leaf mulching for two seasons and then it just stopped starting all together. I attempted to rebuild the carb, but I could never get it to start and run again. I ran out of time an mental bandwidth to keep messing with such a fussy mower. Fast forward three years, the mower has been sitting idle, gathering dirt and rust under my deck because I just never got the energy tackle the repair.
Now, to the present day. I've decided to either get this thing running again or sell it as salvage. I pulled the hood, seat, and removed the deck and pressure washed the dirt and debris from the chassis. Then I parked it in my garage where I can spend time cleaning and digging into the motor. Yesterday, I pulled the carburetor, spark plugs (2), fuel pump, coils (2), valve covers (2), battery and starter. My plan is to work through a troubleshooting flowchart beginning with battery and working my way through the ignition system.
Engine Start Troubleshooting Flow:
1. Battery voltage: yes/no
2. Spark plugs: firing yes/no
3. Coils multimeter check: within range yes/no
4. Fuel pump pushing gas: yes/no
5. Carburetor (after getting a rebuild) sending fuel: yes/no
What else should be in my troubleshooting process? Should I remove the flywheel and sand it down? It's very rusty - see images.
Images
Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer. I've seen quite a few posts on here about this particular mower, but none about bringing one back from the dead. I thought it might be an interesting thread for someone else down the line.
#31
G
g-man57
G
g-man57
I read thru the posts and didn't see one thing to check - maybe I missed it... But I always like to check the simple things first. You said it used to start but then stopped starting at all. Did you check he safety switch on the seat? Never know... Timing is another thing.
If you have gas and spark, it should fire - especially with a shot of fluid. With a little gas in the hole you are bypassing he carb - at least to see that it trys to fire. Sputter or whatever. You have to get that far before you need to buy a new carb.
This is a fun thread - when you get the problem solved, it would be fun to read what you did.
If you have gas and spark, it should fire - especially with a shot of fluid. With a little gas in the hole you are bypassing he carb - at least to see that it trys to fire. Sputter or whatever. You have to get that far before you need to buy a new carb.
This is a fun thread - when you get the problem solved, it would be fun to read what you did.
#32
poncho144
Bite the bullet dude, save yourself a lotta time and anguish. Simply upgrade to a NEW mower, 'cause I've been there, done that....
poncho144
I thought I was a tight wad when it comes to fix'n stuff that's beyond any reasonable hope, but you have just topped me.New poster here. I've enjoyed reading this forum over the years, but never made any posts, but I'm in need of some advice.
Background: A few years ago, I bought a Husqvarna YTH2348 with a Briggs engine for $500 from a guy who was moving away and needed to offload it. Right up front, he told me that it would not start without a shot of starter fluid, and that was true. It never started easily. I used the mower for grass cutting and leaf mulching for two seasons and then it just stopped starting all together. I attempted to rebuild the carb, but I could never get it to start and run again. I ran out of time an mental bandwidth to keep messing with such a fussy mower. Fast forward three years, the mower has been sitting idle, gathering dirt and rust under my deck because I just never got the energy tackle the repair.
Now, to the present day. I've decided to either get this thing running again or sell it as salvage. I pulled the hood, seat, and removed the deck and pressure washed the dirt and debris from the chassis. Then I parked it in my garage where I can spend time cleaning and digging into the motor. Yesterday, I pulled the carburetor, spark plugs (2), fuel pump, coils (2), valve covers (2), battery and starter. My plan is to work through a troubleshooting flowchart beginning with battery and working my way through the ignition system.
Engine Start Troubleshooting Flow:
1. Battery voltage: yes/no
2. Spark plugs: firing yes/no
3. Coils multimeter check: within range yes/no
4. Fuel pump pushing gas: yes/no
5. Carburetor (after getting a rebuild) sending fuel: yes/no
What else should be in my troubleshooting process? Should I remove the flywheel and sand it down? It's very rusty - see images.
Images
Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer. I've seen quite a few posts on here about this particular mower, but none about bringing one back from the dead. I thought it might be an interesting thread for someone else down the line.
Bite the bullet dude, save yourself a lotta time and anguish. Simply upgrade to a NEW mower, 'cause I've been there, done that....
#33
Mfb
Mfb
Absolutely FANTASTIC info! All my mowers presently work, but I'd love to be able to find something this nice for all the broken stuff I DO have....My compliments to @StarTech... way to go!First a lot times just the throttle cable needs readjusting as it might not be fully closing the carburetor choke.
And here is some info the new Briggs Magnetron Coils.
The configuration of new Magnetron coil may look like they removed the triggering device but in fact
it is just a redesign. Now to answer your question what is inside the coil.
1 ea 13mm x 34.5mm single sided circuit board.
5 ea SMD transistors.
8 ea SMD resistors, inductors, and/or capacitors.
(SMDs were destroyed upon board removal so actually identification wasn’t possible.)
1 ea D13003 transistor.
Primary Winding reading is 1.5 - 1.7 Ω.
Secondary Winding reading is about 6 KΩ +- several hundred ohms.
The kill terminal is directly connected to the non-ground side of the primary; hence, explains why you
or anyone else can NOT test the primary trigger circuit. Otherwords this means you can not test to find
out if a Magnetron coil is good or not without installing it in most cases unless you have a specialized
coil tester.
The D13003 emitter is connected to non-grounded side of the coil’s primary via two SMD resistors in
parallel with total resistance value of 1.0 Ω. (One these SMD resistors marked with the 1R0 code for a
1.0 Ω resistor was ½ watt size.) The collector is connected the coil’s primary winding that is grounded.
The base is connected to the rest of the trigger circuitry.
The coil’s transformer turns ratio is approximately 1 to 18 with secondary closest to the core.
In theory if the output D13003 transistor should short the collector-emitter junction and the coil’s
primary winding is still good the ohms reading will drop to 0.5 Ω - 0.7 Ω. If the coil’s primary winding
should short then the ohms reading should be near zero. If the coil’s primary winding should open then
the reading will be well above 1.7 Ω. Applying any voltage to the kill terminal would result in either
coil’s primary winding shorting or opening due to high current experienced. And this don't cover other electrical failures.
Applying voltage also can short out the electronics thus making the coil useless. It is also expected that a cold solder joint
connecting the external kill terminal to circuit board would lead to a non kill operation.
Also the high tension lead can be replaced if you wish to fight the glue considering the price of
aftermarket versions of this coil.
This info was acquired through the destruction of the new OEM version of this coil. It also explains the
configuration differences as they have gone to SMD trigger version.
Now for those that wondering why we put diodes in the kill circuit of the dual coil models it because of
the feedback loop created causing one coil to kill the other. This explains why they are destroyed when
12V is applied as these is no built-in reverse bias protection. Now with this in mind you might think
Kohler coils would be the same wiring. Not so as these diodes are incorporated into coil itself thus
preventing many of the problems that the Briggs have because they don’t incorporate these diodes.
#34
C
ccheatha
C
ccheatha
You have to understand… some of us just love the challenge! I get the biggest kick out of getting something to run that had stopped running for some reason. It’s like solving a puzzle.I thought I was a tight wad when it comes to fix'n stuff that's beyond any reasonable hope, but you have just topped me.
Bite the bullet dude, save yourself a lotta time and anguish. Simply upgrade to a NEW mower, 'cause I've been there, done that....
#35
D
DABS
D
DABS
Anti backfire valve screwed into the Nikki carb? Lots of times they get gummed up and need help with solventYou have to understand… some of us just love the challenge! I get the biggest kick out of getting something to run that had stopped running for some reason. It’s like solving a puzzle.
#36
poncho144
poncho144
Yeh...feel that way 'bout real old Harleys, Indians and Triumphs...You have to understand… some of us just love the challenge! I get the biggest kick out of getting something to run that had stopped running for some reason. It’s like solving a puzzle.
#37
S
Shoesole
S
Shoesole
First thing is to check for spark and if you have spark, then do a compression test (do these before you put any money into it).....I've owned a zero turn Husky for seven years, with the Koehler engine....Great machine!New poster here. I've enjoyed reading this forum over the years, but never made any posts, but I'm in need of some advice.
Background: A few years ago, I bought a Husqvarna YTH2348 with a Briggs engine for $500 from a guy who was moving away and needed to offload it. Right up front, he told me that it would not start without a shot of starter fluid, and that was true. It never started easily. I used the mower for grass cutting and leaf mulching for two seasons and then it just stopped starting all together. I attempted to rebuild the carb, but I could never get it to start and run again. I ran out of time an mental bandwidth to keep messing with such a fussy mower. Fast forward three years, the mower has been sitting idle, gathering dirt and rust under my deck because I just never got the energy tackle the repair.
Now, to the present day. I've decided to either get this thing running again or sell it as salvage. I pulled the hood, seat, and removed the deck and pressure washed the dirt and debris from the chassis. Then I parked it in my garage where I can spend time cleaning and digging into the motor. Yesterday, I pulled the carburetor, spark plugs (2), fuel pump, coils (2), valve covers (2), battery and starter. My plan is to work through a troubleshooting flowchart beginning with battery and working my way through the ignition system.
Engine Start Troubleshooting Flow:
1. Battery voltage: yes/no
2. Spark plugs: firing yes/no
3. Coils multimeter check: within range yes/no
4. Fuel pump pushing gas: yes/no
5. Carburetor (after getting a rebuild) sending fuel: yes/no
What else should be in my troubleshooting process? Should I remove the flywheel and sand it down? It's very rusty - see images.
Images
Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer. I've seen quite a few posts on here about this particular mower, but none about bringing one back from the dead. I thought it might be an interesting thread for someone else down the line.
#38
benaford
benaford
Ha! Yeah, I wish that was an option for me, but it's just not in the cards right now. I'm on a budget that doesn't include the price for a new mower. Someday, though!I thought I was a tight wad when it comes to fix'n stuff that's beyond any reasonable hope, but you have just topped me.
Bite the bullet dude, save yourself a lotta time and anguish. Simply upgrade to a NEW mower, 'cause I've been there, done that....
#39
benaford
benaford
Definitely. There's some kind of kick I get out of fixing something that everyone else would have thrown away. It's just part of my nature, I guess. Glad to know I'm not the only one.You have to understand… some of us just love the challenge! I get the biggest kick out of getting something to run that had stopped running for some reason. It’s like solving a puzzle.
#40
benaford
benaford
Will do!I read thru the posts and didn't see one thing to check - maybe I missed it... But I always like to check the simple things first. You said it used to start but then stopped starting at all. Did you check he safety switch on the seat? Never know... Timing is another thing.
If you have gas and spark, it should fire - especially with a shot of fluid. With a little gas in the hole you are bypassing he carb - at least to see that it trys to fire. Sputter or whatever. You have to get that far before you need to buy a new carb.
This is a fun thread - when you get the problem solved, it would be fun to read what you did.
#41
benaford
benaford
I hadn't thought about the compression test. What does that involve?First thing is to check for spark and if you have spark, then do a compression test (do these before you put any money into it).....I've owned a zero turn Husky for seven years, with the Koehler engine....Great machine!
#42
benaford
benaford
If the safety switch is bad, will the starter engage at all? I'm not sure where it breaks the circuit.I read thru the posts and didn't see one thing to check - maybe I missed it... But I always like to check the simple things first. You said it used to start but then stopped starting at all. Did you check he safety switch on the seat? Never know... Timing is another thing.
If you have gas and spark, it should fire - especially with a shot of fluid. With a little gas in the hole you are bypassing he carb - at least to see that it trys to fire. Sputter or whatever. You have to get that far before you need to buy a new carb.
This is a fun thread - when you get the problem solved, it would be fun to read what you did.
#43
benaford
benaford
Weekend update - using the repair kit I ordered, I was able to drill out the bad starter bolt threads, put in new inserts and mount up the starter. I'm still waiting on the new fuel pump an vacuum tube, but I dropped in my old battery and put some fuel in the tank for a test fire. The starter spun the engine, but would hang up before completing one full revolution. I remembered reading somewhere about someone else who had a battery that was showing good voltage but was not strong enough to crank. I added a jump starter and the starter turned the engine over. Guess the battery is bad after all. At least now I know that the starter does work. Also, I pulled the spark plugs and laid them on the engine - I could definitely see the spark. I sprayed starter fluid into the intake to see if it would fire up, but had no luck with that. Ran out of time to do any more work this weekend, but I'll install the new fuel pump, vacuum tube and buy a new battery this week and keep working my way through the process.
Thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread - here's hoping I get somewhere with this soon.
Thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread - here's hoping I get somewhere with this soon.
#44
D
davis2
D
davis2
Ummm... You do understand that this thread is about REPAIRING lawn equipment???I thought I was a tight wad when it comes to fix'n stuff that's beyond any reasonable hope, but you have just topped me.
Bite the bullet dude, save yourself a lotta time and anguish. Simply upgrade to a NEW mower, 'cause I've been there, done that....
#45
T
Timtoo
T
Timtoo
I have been following the thread and agree that timing could be your problem with the no-start. Unless I missed it, you never said that you removed the flywheel and checked the key to be sure it wasn't sheered. Have you done this?Weekend update - using the repair kit I ordered, I was able to drill out the bad starter bolt threads, put in new inserts and mount up the starter. I'm still waiting on the new fuel pump an vacuum tube, but I dropped in my old battery and put some fuel in the tank for a test fire. The starter spun the engine, but would hang up before completing one full revolution. I remembered reading somewhere about someone else who had a battery that was showing good voltage but was not strong enough to crank. I added a jump starter and the starter turned the engine over. Guess the battery is bad after all. At least now I know that the starter does work. Also, I pulled the spark plugs and laid them on the engine - I could definitely see the spark. I sprayed starter fluid into the intake to see if it would fire up, but had no luck with that. Ran out of time to do any more work this weekend, but I'll install the new fuel pump, vacuum tube and buy a new battery this week and keep working my way through the process.
Thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread - here's hoping I get somewhere with this soon.
#46
woodstover
woodstover
Compression test and since you had the valve covers off, should be checking the clearances and adjusting if necessary.
#47
benaford
benaford
No, I did not remove the flywheel.I have been following the thread and agree that timing could be your problem with the no-start. Unless I missed it, you never said that you removed the flywheel and checked the key to be sure it wasn't sheered. Have you done this?
#48
smoothmower
smoothmower
I have the same mower and find it does a fantastic cut without accumulating clippings inside the mower deck, easy clean with a leaf blower. Got it without engine and installed a Vanguard 16 hp twin, then gave her a makeup paint. My pictures were too big for the server to process, sorry. If your engine is kaput (do a compression test), the mower is well worth to repower. The 16 hp vanguard twin, inexpensive and ubiquitous, did just fine for me. Use a thin hose to siphon the tranny oil, refill with tractor oil (walmart) and the tranny will reward you with a smooth ride that does not steal power from the mowing deck. Aliexpress has new carburetors for your 23 hp under 35 bucks, coils at 15 bucks and other needs for cheap.Weekend update - using the repair kit I ordered, I was able to drill out the bad starter bolt threads, put in new inserts and mount up the starter. I'm still waiting on the new fuel pump an vacuum tube, but I dropped in my old battery and put some fuel in the tank for a test fire. The starter spun the engine, but would hang up before completing one full revolution. I remembered reading somewhere about someone else who had a battery that was showing good voltage but was not strong enough to crank. I added a jump starter and the starter turned the engine over. Guess the battery is bad after all. At least now I know that the starter does work. Also, I pulled the spark plugs and laid them on the engine - I could definitely see the spark. I sprayed starter fluid into the intake to see if it would fire up, but had no luck with that. Ran out of time to do any more work this weekend, but I'll install the new fuel pump, vacuum tube and buy a new battery this week and keep working my way through the process.
Thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread - here's hoping I get somewhere with this soon.
#49
smoothmower
smoothmower
I have the same mower and find it does a fantastic cut without accumulating clippings inside the mower deck, easy clean with a leaf blower. Got it without engine and installed a Vanguard 16 hp twin, then gave her a makeup paint. The hood came from a craftsman mower. If your engine is kaput (do a compression test, Temu has the tester kit for under 20 bucks), the mower is well worth to repower. The 16 hp vanguard twin, inexpensive and ubiquitous, did just fine for me, larger engines are triple the price. Use a thin hose to siphon the tranny oil, refill with tractor oil (walmart) and the tranny will reward you with a smooth ride that does not steal power from the mowing deck. Aliexpress has new carburetors for your 23 hp under 35 bucks, coils at 15 bucks and other needs for cheap.
#50
benaford
benaford
That's a great job on reclaiming your mower and I appreciate the input. I was googling that motor and I see it around $1,600. I don't think I would be willing to go that far to salvage this mower, but maybe if I found one second hand.
#51
S
SamB
A good friend wanted it. I sold it and bought a brand Honda 750 Four. Took a while to getting used to going that fast that quickly. It never needed a wrench on it, except points and plugs. I did miss just standing around with my HD friends admiring their bikes at most any gas station.
p.s. I also had a Triumph 650 Bonneville. Pushed it home more than once.
S
SamB
I understand, I had a Harley Panhead, 1951 FLH. Chrome springer front end, low riser ape hanger bars. fishtail pipes. Linkert carb. Beautiful bike, lots of chrome, Easy Rider style. Worked on it all the time.Yeh...feel that way 'bout real old Harleys, Indians and Triumphs...
A good friend wanted it. I sold it and bought a brand Honda 750 Four. Took a while to getting used to going that fast that quickly. It never needed a wrench on it, except points and plugs. I did miss just standing around with my HD friends admiring their bikes at most any gas station.
p.s. I also had a Triumph 650 Bonneville. Pushed it home more than once.