Should be a P/N-587420001
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Husqvarna LC221RH drive cable PN
- Thread starter oliver_cfc
- Start date
More options
Export threadIf we had length and end description ( barrel, s or eye) we might be able to find one.Should be a P/N-587420001
P/N has superceded to a 589813201 appears to come with the control handles and a steel z bend. Appears it's a HOP part not used on Poulan.If we had length and end description ( barrel, s or eye) we might be able to find one.
That's not the P/N i'm coming up with, are you sure it's right?Amazon has 3 of the cables 587421102
It says it fits your model search the number and look at the pic. ereplacement.com has pic but not amazonThat's not the P/N i'm coming up with, are you sure it's right?
oliver_cfc
Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2011
- Threads
- 7
- Messages
- 23
587421102 is the cable I bought but it's different. There's a pic at https://i.postimg.cc/44DBgzYx/two-cables.jpg
The one on the bottom (with the cable intact) is the new one and you'll see that the screw part is wider. It's wide-enough that it doesn't sit nicely in the handle housing like the old one. The real problem I have with it though is that after connecting to the transmission and installing into the handle housing there's still a couple of inches of slack meaning that squeezing the handles doesn't have enough pull to engage the wheels/blade.
I'm a novice, so I may be way off here but I thought the only adjustment I had was the nut/bolt part and it's just not enough.
I'm tending to think Husq is going to make me buy the whole housing and then crossing my fingers that it's the right length.
Unfortunately, the old cable snapped so I don't know for sure how long it should be. Do they come in standard lengths because it probably snapped close to where it was connected. The other end has a ball on it that connects to a bit of metal I attached to the transmission.
The one on the bottom (with the cable intact) is the new one and you'll see that the screw part is wider. It's wide-enough that it doesn't sit nicely in the handle housing like the old one. The real problem I have with it though is that after connecting to the transmission and installing into the handle housing there's still a couple of inches of slack meaning that squeezing the handles doesn't have enough pull to engage the wheels/blade.
I'm a novice, so I may be way off here but I thought the only adjustment I had was the nut/bolt part and it's just not enough.
I'm tending to think Husq is going to make me buy the whole housing and then crossing my fingers that it's the right length.
Unfortunately, the old cable snapped so I don't know for sure how long it should be. Do they come in standard lengths because it probably snapped close to where it was connected. The other end has a ball on it that connects to a bit of metal I attached to the transmission.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,702
Fit the new cable with the adjuster screwed as far back as it will go.
Pull the inner through and cut the drum off just past the end of the lever
Fit a new drum
Most motorcycle shop will have an assortment of them .
You tube is full of instructions on how to solder a cable end on.
I have a bird cage punch so when I come across a case like this I cut the cable end off & fit a clamp on drum ( also availible from motorcycle shop ) then move the clamp on fitting up the wire till the cable works as intended , then I cut the cable a fit floating drum in that position.
FWIW when you pull on a cable, the cable tries to twist because of the lay ( twist ) in the strands )
This twisting action is supposes to be accomodated by fitting a ball end to one end of the cable.
In practice this does not work and the regular twisting of the cable causes it to fail due to fatigue near where the drum ( or ball ) end is soldered on.
Putting a free rotating drum on the drum end means that the cable can rotate at both ends and usually will now last forever .
I have motorcycles that I made cables for over 50 years ago and they are still working fine .
Some Lanolin based cable lube or dry teflon lube ( pushbike shop ) will prevent rust and keep it going forever .
Never ever use WD 40 on cables.
Pull the inner through and cut the drum off just past the end of the lever
Fit a new drum
Most motorcycle shop will have an assortment of them .
You tube is full of instructions on how to solder a cable end on.
I have a bird cage punch so when I come across a case like this I cut the cable end off & fit a clamp on drum ( also availible from motorcycle shop ) then move the clamp on fitting up the wire till the cable works as intended , then I cut the cable a fit floating drum in that position.
FWIW when you pull on a cable, the cable tries to twist because of the lay ( twist ) in the strands )
This twisting action is supposes to be accomodated by fitting a ball end to one end of the cable.
In practice this does not work and the regular twisting of the cable causes it to fail due to fatigue near where the drum ( or ball ) end is soldered on.
Putting a free rotating drum on the drum end means that the cable can rotate at both ends and usually will now last forever .
I have motorcycles that I made cables for over 50 years ago and they are still working fine .
Some Lanolin based cable lube or dry teflon lube ( pushbike shop ) will prevent rust and keep it going forever .
Never ever use WD 40 on cables.