My 128 was stalling when throttling up, very typical of the many complaints I've read. Like many owner i replaced and cleaned every part removable and it continued stalling. I removed the new carb i had replaced and inspected the gasket between the carb base and engine wall, it had a small tear, i replaced the gasket and viola! That 8 year old machine runs like new. I don't believe all those old parts replaced with new ones was necessary.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Husqvarna 128LD Will Not Stay Running
- Thread starter DerekF
- Start date
More options
Export threadi have the same weed eater and i have the same problem. The answer i got from the dealer is that model is known to have this issue and they no longer work on them due to the poor quality that it came from the factory with problems. If anyone has found the fix for this it would make alot of people happy includeing me. i have no clue what to do next. i have also done everything he did and i adjusted the carbs both the rebuilt and the new ones.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 24,995
Find a new dealer ,
Hand held 2 strokes are dirt simple in operation & in repair
Like many shops their repair cost probably exceeds the replacement cost
I don't like working on single ring engines because that single ring has to do way too much work
So they tend to wear quickly and replacing a piston rung has a higher labour charge than the replacement costs
Apart from correctly adjusting the carb and fitting new gaskets you really have very little else to prevent it working
When I first started repairs was new to cube carbs & the previous owner was big on fitting new D & G kits.
A couple of years down the track I learned the proper way to do it
And that starts with pressure & vacuum testing the fuel tank, then fuel lines, then carb then crankcase seals, then rings.
Flow testing the carb consists of sliding it off while still connected and blowing high volume low pressure air through it , checking for a strong atomised fuel flow out the engine end.
Since then I have fixed so many "unrepairable" trimers because they had a faulty fuel cap .
2 strokes will tell you what is wrong all you have to do is listen
If the engine note gets harsher & higher pitch that is the engine telling you it is running lean
If the note gets lower , breaks up a bit then goes soft & stops then it is too rich
If it just shuts off which no change in the exhaust note then it is electrical .
Hard to start cold but will restart no problems when hot points towards leaking crank seals
The trick in not going mad is to work out why it is failing first rather than do as the first poster did and fit a bucket load of new parts particularly if it was an EvilPay AmmoZone "tune up kit" many of which are an assembly of defective parts .Read the whole thread
1) Henry , had a leaking manifold gasket ,,,,, Fixed
2) Danmasi bad spark plug,,,,,, Fixed
3) Hold my beer Bad spark plug,,,,,Fixed
4) Dereck no fuel filter to hold the fuel line down so was sucking air,,,,,,Fixed
The only common thing is none of then understood how these engine work .
So which one of these problems have you decide is exactly the same as yours ?
Hand held 2 strokes are dirt simple in operation & in repair
Like many shops their repair cost probably exceeds the replacement cost
I don't like working on single ring engines because that single ring has to do way too much work
So they tend to wear quickly and replacing a piston rung has a higher labour charge than the replacement costs
Apart from correctly adjusting the carb and fitting new gaskets you really have very little else to prevent it working
When I first started repairs was new to cube carbs & the previous owner was big on fitting new D & G kits.
A couple of years down the track I learned the proper way to do it
And that starts with pressure & vacuum testing the fuel tank, then fuel lines, then carb then crankcase seals, then rings.
Flow testing the carb consists of sliding it off while still connected and blowing high volume low pressure air through it , checking for a strong atomised fuel flow out the engine end.
Since then I have fixed so many "unrepairable" trimers because they had a faulty fuel cap .
2 strokes will tell you what is wrong all you have to do is listen
If the engine note gets harsher & higher pitch that is the engine telling you it is running lean
If the note gets lower , breaks up a bit then goes soft & stops then it is too rich
If it just shuts off which no change in the exhaust note then it is electrical .
Hard to start cold but will restart no problems when hot points towards leaking crank seals
The trick in not going mad is to work out why it is failing first rather than do as the first poster did and fit a bucket load of new parts particularly if it was an EvilPay AmmoZone "tune up kit" many of which are an assembly of defective parts .Read the whole thread
1) Henry , had a leaking manifold gasket ,,,,, Fixed
2) Danmasi bad spark plug,,,,,, Fixed
3) Hold my beer Bad spark plug,,,,,Fixed
4) Dereck no fuel filter to hold the fuel line down so was sucking air,,,,,,Fixed
The only common thing is none of then understood how these engine work .
So which one of these problems have you decide is exactly the same as yours ?