HRR216K10VKAA not starting, how does auto choke system go together?

[philipgonzales3]

So Initially when I'd try to start the mower it would run for 2-3 seconds and turn off. It seemed like it would blow a puff of air right as it died. Of course I did not get any videos of the original symptom.

I drained the gas and filled with new gas. No change in behavior.

I tried cranking it like 30 times and mower would just run 2-3 seconds and then shut itself off.

I recently replaced the spark plug less than a year ago. I made sure the boot was tightly on the spark plug and decided to look at the carb. I have never messed with a carburetor before and this has an auto choke system. I of course have no idea how things went together before I took off the two bolts to the air filter housing.

Can anyone by any chance confirm this is the correct movement? No idea if these parts are together correctly lol.

Now it will run but with very low idle. Not sure if I made the problem better or worse lol.

It seems I can get the mower to rev up pretty well by pushing on the bottom arm that manipulates the choke? Vroom Vroom?

Any ideas on what I should do next? ANY help is greatly appreciated.

 

[philipgonzales3]

Ok,

As usual, it looks like maybe I may have been over complicating it. Once I understood a little better how the system works I was able to determine that this doohickey (governor arm?) was bent!

Seems like it was bent in too much, can anyone confirm?



As you can see in the 3rd picture I moved it out with my hand. The mower ran a little better but was still surging. It stopped and I couldn't get it started again. Only had a few minutes to look at it though. Will troubleshoot some more this PM.

 

[Rivets]

From your description and pics I’m willing to bet that it needs to be cleaned. That said, the price of Honda carbs is cheaper than trying to clean the carb. Part number for a new carb is 16100-Z8B-901 and costs around $22.00.

 

[philipgonzales3]

From your description and pics I’m willing to bet that it needs to be cleaned. That said, the price of Honda carbs is cheaper than trying to clean the carb. Part number for a new carb is 16100-Z8B-901 and costs around $22.00.

Ok, great. I had run across a carb assembly on ebay for around $20 but wasn't sure it is what I needed. Mower is probably a few years old. So it sounds like this is very much a rip and replace operation. Meaning I take out the old one and chunk it and put the new one in it's place? If so heck I'd spend the ~$25-30 after tax and shipping or what not to do it myself and not have to worry about if it is dirty.

 

[philipgonzales3]

Well good news is the mower starts fine now. Starts right up and runs for about 60-90 seconds then the carb valve opens up (I am verifying the valve behind the air filter is opening in case I am saying it wrong) and the governor arms start hunting around and the mower dies and will not start back up until cold.

Still sound like carb or something else? I am going to order one regardless but just wondering if my issue could be something else.

 

[Rivets]

Sounds like it is still running lean, which leads me back to what I originally posted.

 

[philipgonzales3]

Sounds like it is still running lean, which leads me back to what I originally posted.

Ok, great. Ordered, should be here by this weekend. I will report back what I find.

 

[tadawson]

Looks like the gov arm got derped to me and bent. Does not explain choke issues, but certainly does explain the incorrect speed . . . The balance between the gov and those springs determines RPM, and it's bent, that's way off. Canle the crap off where the gov shaft exits the block at the bottom of the lever, and make sure that there are no cracks that would cause it to shift, and if so, replace the arm and set the gov accordingly. If not, see if you can find a photo of one that works . . . bent/mangled/gorilla-fisted gov limks are the fastest way to get instability and surging that I can think of.

 

[philipgonzales3]

Looks like the gov arm got derped to me and bent. Does not explain choke issues, but certainly does explain the incorrect speed . . . The balance between the gov and those springs determines RPM, and it's bent, that's way off. C.ean the crap off where the gov haft exits the block at the bottom of the lever, and make sure that there are no cracks that would cause it to shift, and if so, replace the arm and set the gov accordingly. If not, see if you can find a photo of one that works . . . bent/mangled/gorilla-fisted gov limks are the fastest way to get instability and surging that I can think of.

Ok, I'll have to clean it up and have a look. Does it look bad in this picture? I thought maybe it was good but guess I'll have to hunt down an example photo to verify.

 

[Rivets]

I really don’t see anything wrong with the governor arm.