Hours on a mower

[slomo]

Thanks man. Due to this new info about mower oils that I was not aware of I think I'm going to change to Kawasaki oil at the end of the season. Probably their 10w40. It'll no doubt cost more but I'll pay it.

Use what your engine manual says to use, for your, outdoor ambient temps.

 

[jcworks]

OK, I'll see about doing it then >>>> when this deep South, Alabama heat and humidity lets up. . Even so, as bad as it is today its not even close to what its like in south La., where I moved from. That place needs to be somewhere down in the Amazon

 

[MParr]

350 hours over ten years isn’t what I would call a lot of hours.
Now to the oil. Kawasaki recommends 10W40 under normal conditions. 20W50 is acceptable in high temperatures or if it’s using oil. Kawasaki 10w40 is fine. 10w40 4T motorcycle oil will work. 20w50 v-twin motorcycle oil will work. Valvoline VR-1 20w50 will work. Mobil 1 15w50 will work.
15w40 HDEO (Diesel oil) will work. I’m currently using Rotella T5 15w40 in my Kohler. The oils that I listed are high in zinc and phosphorus content, over 1100 ppm of both additives.
Now to the air filter. @bertsmobile1 has given good advice on the air filter. I would like to add to his advice. If you are not currently using a foam pre-filter over the standard filter, you should get one. Remove the foam pre-filter every 25 hours, wash in hot soapy water, let dry, and apply a light coat of foam filter oil, before reinstalling. Most motorcycle shops carry foam filter oil in spray cans.
It’s 100F today in my part of Georgia so, I know about the summer heat you are experiencing.

 

[slomo]

350 hours over ten years isn’t what I would call a lot of hours.

Guys, I was JOKING when I said 349 was a lot of hours. Tough crowd......

Most push mowers get like 25 to 40 hours a year. 0-turns typically have better engines than pushers.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Guys, I was JOKING when I said 349 was a lot of hours. Tough crowd......

Most push mowers get like 25 to 40 hours a year. 0-turns typically have better engines than pushers.

Hours: Hours on equipment is like miles on a car. So it tells a lot about general life expectancy.
Oil: Change oil and filter every 50 hours. Book says 100 hours on oil and 200 on filter. Many people have gone to the 50 hour time table. Keep your oil level at full and check often. Changing oil and keeping level correct is more important than your fancy Kawasaki high zinc $10/quart oil.
Cooling fins: Book says check and clean cooling fins and top of engine once a year. Some engines are lucky if they get checked once a lifetime. I see a lot of dirty engines and a few that overheat and cause damage every year. It is an air cooled engine. The cooling fins are the radiator. Dirty fins is like running with a defective/damaged radiator in a car.
Air filter: Check/clean/replace air filter when necessary. Make sure all connection points are firm and tight. Dusting down an engine will kill it quicker than fancy $10/quart Kawasaki oil will “save it”.
Keep your equipment clean and do visual checks. Use some common sense and take pride in what you have worked hard to acquire in life.

 

[MParr]

Hours: Hours on equipment is like miles on a car. So it tells a lot about general life expectancy.
Oil: Change oil and filter every 50 hours. Book says 100 hours on oil and 200 on filter. Many people have gone to the 50 hour time table. Keep your oil level at full and check often. Changing oil and keeping level correct is more important than your fancy Kawasaki high zinc $10/quart oil.
Cooling fins: Book says check and clean cooling fins and top of engine once a year. Some engines are lucky if they get checked once a lifetime. I see a lot of dirty engines and a few that overheat and cause damage every year. It is an air cooled engine. The cooling fins are the radiator. Dirty fins is like running with a defective/damaged radiator in a car.
Air filter: Check/clean/replace air filter when necessary. Make sure all connection points are firm and tight. Dusting down an engine will kill it quicker than fancy $10/quart Kawasaki oil will “save it”.
Keep your equipment clean and do visual checks. Use some common sense and take pride in what you have worked hard to acquire in life.

Good advice!
The OP is averaging 35 hours per year so, he’s good at changing the oil yearly.
Checking the oil level before each use is a must.

 

[RayMcD]

Ya need thin oil to get in small places, if the oil is to thick to get in the small places, the small places become larger, AKA "Wear". JMHO. Cheers, Ray

 

[bertsmobile1]

Ya need thin oil to get in small places, if the oil is to thick to get in the small places, the small places become larger, AKA "Wear". JMHO. Cheers, Ray

Ray it is a mower not a Nascar top fueler
Ten years ago they were total splash lubrication
The bigger problem is
Too thin and it won't stay in

 

[slomo]

Ya need thin oil to get in small places, if the oil is to thick to get in the small places, the small places become larger, AKA "Wear". JMHO. Cheers, Ray

Take a standard push mower. Simple as mowing gets. No hidden tricks. That (good running) engine will get to full operational temp in roughly 1-3 minutes. Talking air cooled push mower. So any oil that got thinned was either diluted with fuel or someone used the wrong type, being a multi grade oil.

Talking about small places, that oil, any oil, is at full temp very rapidly. This is not a concern with a mower engine. It's hot and flowing in short order.

 

[Cajun power]

Got FR series engines with way over 1000 hrs on them, some with over 2000 hrs al running fine
The only ones I have has problems with were ones that the owner serviced and did the air filer clamp up too tight which allowed dust to be sucked into the engine wearing the rings .
So 2 have been re-ringed & now they have Donaldson filters on them, both are running fine , both of these were baggers
Four have needed a head repair because the single clamp bolt on the rocker housing came loose so I now check it is tight every service .

Car oils have different formulations to mower oils, but 20w 50 will not cause an engine failure the one caveat on that is to change it on the final mow for the season, every season .
The reason for this is mower oils have more corrosion inhibitors, water dispersants & anti-sludging agents than car oils because the engine sits around for 3 to 7 months each year depending upon how long the off season is in your region.
And FWIW Kawakasi Australia specify 10w40 and market their own branded 10w40

Got lots of customers who run the same oil as their car uses so they only have one oil in their shed and it stays fresh
An old addage from the vintage motorcycling movement
The best oil is what you have just drained out and the more often it is drained the better it becomes

OR just use a standard full synthetic? just asking your opinion...most ppl are happy and fine with using standard auto oil on their air cooled 4 strokes...I've always used full synthetic...simply because it has a better thermal property and will not break down over time due to heat. also noting: few people "pickle" their engines for the winter...I smoke the upper cylinder every year with the same synthetic oil ...