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Hours on a mower
#1
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
TWO part question:
2013 Kawasaki FR691V 23 hp 10 years old on a Toro MX5060, 350 meter hours. I live in Alabama.
1}What's considered a lot of hours on this mower engine?
2) I've always used Castrol 10w30 conventional oil. Last summer I started using Castrol 20w50 conventional oil. I did so because I asked about it at a dealer and they said it would not hurt it. Does anyone think 20w50 is not ok.
2013 Kawasaki FR691V 23 hp 10 years old on a Toro MX5060, 350 meter hours. I live in Alabama.
1}What's considered a lot of hours on this mower engine?
2) I've always used Castrol 10w30 conventional oil. Last summer I started using Castrol 20w50 conventional oil. I did so because I asked about it at a dealer and they said it would not hurt it. Does anyone think 20w50 is not ok.
#2
S
slomo
Forget what anyone at a mower shop states over the factory engine manual.
S
slomo
349.1}What's considered a lot of hours on this mower engine?
I would follow YOUR engine manual for oil specs. Normally Kawi's take SAE 30w or 10w-30. Out of those I would use SAE 30 and never look back.Does anyone think 20w50 is not ok.
Forget what anyone at a mower shop states over the factory engine manual.
#3
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
350 hours is very low hours. A well maintained Kawasaki engine can run up to 2000 hours without complete rebuild. Just a guideline and emphasis on well maintained. Your mileage may vary.
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Slomo, I’m from the mower repair shop and I say it’s OK to switch most small engines over to the 10W-30 oil. Most engine manufacturers now recommend it, as 30W is getting harder to find.
#5
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Got FR series engines with way over 1000 hrs on them, some with over 2000 hrs al running fine
The only ones I have has problems with were ones that the owner serviced and did the air filer clamp up too tight which allowed dust to be sucked into the engine wearing the rings .
So 2 have been re-ringed & now they have Donaldson filters on them, both are running fine , both of these were baggers
Four have needed a head repair because the single clamp bolt on the rocker housing came loose so I now check it is tight every service .
Car oils have different formulations to mower oils, but 20w 50 will not cause an engine failure the one caveat on that is to change it on the final mow for the season, every season .
The reason for this is mower oils have more corrosion inhibitors, water dispersants & anti-sludging agents than car oils because the engine sits around for 3 to 7 months each year depending upon how long the off season is in your region.
And FWIW Kawakasi Australia specify 10w40 and market their own branded 10w40
Got lots of customers who run the same oil as their car uses so they only have one oil in their shed and it stays fresh
An old addage from the vintage motorcycling movement
The best oil is what you have just drained out and the more often it is drained the better it becomes
The only ones I have has problems with were ones that the owner serviced and did the air filer clamp up too tight which allowed dust to be sucked into the engine wearing the rings .
So 2 have been re-ringed & now they have Donaldson filters on them, both are running fine , both of these were baggers
Four have needed a head repair because the single clamp bolt on the rocker housing came loose so I now check it is tight every service .
Car oils have different formulations to mower oils, but 20w 50 will not cause an engine failure the one caveat on that is to change it on the final mow for the season, every season .
The reason for this is mower oils have more corrosion inhibitors, water dispersants & anti-sludging agents than car oils because the engine sits around for 3 to 7 months each year depending upon how long the off season is in your region.
And FWIW Kawakasi Australia specify 10w40 and market their own branded 10w40
Got lots of customers who run the same oil as their car uses so they only have one oil in their shed and it stays fresh
An old addage from the vintage motorcycling movement
The best oil is what you have just drained out and the more often it is drained the better it becomes
#6
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
Kawasaki has a 20W50 oil it is the one with the blue top. They reccomend it in hotter climates. I would adjust the valves in the engine if you have not already done it. Kawasaki reccoments adjusting them @ 300 hours. I have seen them pop the heads off the valves if this is not done. To me this is the weakest part of the engine. Don't like they way they have to adjust the valves poor design on the smaller engines.
#7
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
I would not begin to know how to adjust valves or what to look for.Kawasaki has a 20W50 oil it is the one with the blue top. They reccomend it in hotter climates. I would adjust the valves in the engine if you have not already done it. Kawasaki reccoments adjusting them @ 300 hours. I have seen them pop the heads off the valves if this is not done. To me this is the weakest part of the engine. Don't like they way they have to adjust the valves poor design on the smaller engines.
#8
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
Alabama. But anywhere in the deep South it is often in the 90+ degree range.Kawasaki has a 20W50 oil it is the one with the blue top. They reccomend it in hotter climates. I would adjust the valves in the engine if you have not already done it. Kawasaki reccoments adjusting them @ 300 hours. I have seen them pop the heads off the valves if this is not done. To me this is the weakest part of the engine. Don't like they way they have to adjust the valves poor design on the smaller engines.
#9
J
jcworks
**Question for you** : You said some folks clamp the air filter too tight allowing dust to be sucked in. I tighten mine fairly tight with a flathead screwdriver. Did you mean to say "did NOT do it too tight ?
J
jcworks
Bert, I didn't know there was a "mower" oil. I've just used the Castrol off the shelf oil at Walmart or an auto parts store.Got FR series engines with way over 1000 hrs on them, some with over 2000 hrs al running fine
The only ones I have has problems with were ones that the owner serviced and did the air filer clamp up too tight which allowed dust to be sucked into the engine wearing the rings .
So 2 have been re-ringed & now they have Donaldson filters on them, both are running fine , both of these were baggers
Four have needed a head repair because the single clamp bolt on the rocker housing came loose so I now check it is tight every service .
Car oils have different formulations to mower oils, but 20w 50 will not cause an engine failure the one caveat on that is to change it on the final mow for the season, every season .
The reason for this is mower oils have more corrosion inhibitors, water dispersants & anti-sludging agents than car oils because the engine sits around for 3 to 7 months each year depending upon how long the off season is in your region.
And FWIW Kawakasi Australia specify 10w40 and market their own branded 10w40
Got lots of customers who run the same oil as their car uses so they only have one oil in their shed and it stays fresh
An old addage from the vintage motorcycling movement
The best oil is what you have just drained out and the more often it is drained the better it becomes
**Question for you** : You said some folks clamp the air filter too tight allowing dust to be sucked in. I tighten mine fairly tight with a flathead screwdriver. Did you mean to say "did NOT do it too tight ?
#10
S
slomo
SAE 30 is just that. A 30 grade oil all day long.
SAE 30 is at every wallymart I know of. How much easier can it get?
Being a shop guy like yourself, you want one oil to do it all. I get it. As well as you do not OWN said equipment looking for max life and so on. I get it.
Use what you like. That 10w-30 is better than a dry sump.
S
slomo
That is a 10 grade oil (thin), with viscosity index improvers, acting like a 30w, when hot (212F). Let that soak in.I say it’s OK to switch most small engines over to the 10W-30 oil.
SAE 30 is just that. A 30 grade oil all day long.
SAE 30 is at every wallymart I know of. How much easier can it get?
Being a shop guy like yourself, you want one oil to do it all. I get it. As well as you do not OWN said equipment looking for max life and so on. I get it.
Use what you like. That 10w-30 is better than a dry sump.
#11
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
Thanks Tiger, thats what I needed to know.350 hours is very low hours. A well maintained Kawasaki engine can run up to 2000 hours without complete rebuild. Just a guideline and emphasis on well maintained. Your mileage may vary.
#12
S
slomo
S
slomo
Briggs makes mower oil. Made by someone else no doubt.Bert, I didn't know there was a "mower" oil. I've just used the Castrol off the shelf oil.
#13
S
slomo
S
slomo
One can trash an engine in 3 minutes. Loan yours to a neighbor and find out LOL.
I feel hour meters are not required and have no useful purpose other than lightening your wallet. One of those oh, good to know is all.
You need to worry about clean oil, valve adjustments and cooling fins.
I feel hour meters are not required and have no useful purpose other than lightening your wallet. One of those oh, good to know is all.
You need to worry about clean oil, valve adjustments and cooling fins.
#14
B
bertsmobile1
The BEST mower oils are those blended for mowers however mower engines are very crude & lazy so do not put a lot of stress on their oils
Change it at the end of every season & it will be fine
The only engine damage I have seen that was attributed to oil ( apart from the lack of it ) was a customer who was running 2 sroke marine oil in his mower because he had a 5 gallon drum left over from his old ski boat
Now the air filter
The elbow should have had a wing nut on it
And you tighten it just enough till the air filter will not turn in the rubber elbow.
The other end is fine because it clamps onto aluminium bit the filter end you are clamping onto the plastic filter that deforms and allows unfiltered air to be sucked in.
Not too big a disaster if you throw but mulching creates a lot more dust around the engine and of course bagging covers everything with dust that gets sucked in
If the filter is working properly then a damp white cotton cloth will come up clean if run around the carb mouth.
My advise s always get a tub of rubber grease and apply a smeer to the filter ( not the elbow ) insert the filter & do up finger tight .
IT is a fundamentally bad design and would work better is the filter side was smaller diameter and you had to push the filter in hard to stretch the elbow .
To be on the safe side change that elbow every 3 to 5 years because once the rubber goes a bit hard it will not be able to make an airtight seal
B
bertsmobile1
Firstly oils a blended with different chemicals for different end usesBert, I didn't know there was a "mower" oil. I've just used the Castrol off the shelf oil at Walmart or an auto parts store.
**Question for you** : You said some folks clamp the air filter too tight allowing dust to be sucked in. I tighten mine fairly tight with a flathead screwdriver. Did you mean to say "did NOT do it too tight ?
The BEST mower oils are those blended for mowers however mower engines are very crude & lazy so do not put a lot of stress on their oils
Change it at the end of every season & it will be fine
The only engine damage I have seen that was attributed to oil ( apart from the lack of it ) was a customer who was running 2 sroke marine oil in his mower because he had a 5 gallon drum left over from his old ski boat
Now the air filter
The elbow should have had a wing nut on it
And you tighten it just enough till the air filter will not turn in the rubber elbow.
The other end is fine because it clamps onto aluminium bit the filter end you are clamping onto the plastic filter that deforms and allows unfiltered air to be sucked in.
Not too big a disaster if you throw but mulching creates a lot more dust around the engine and of course bagging covers everything with dust that gets sucked in
If the filter is working properly then a damp white cotton cloth will come up clean if run around the carb mouth.
My advise s always get a tub of rubber grease and apply a smeer to the filter ( not the elbow ) insert the filter & do up finger tight .
IT is a fundamentally bad design and would work better is the filter side was smaller diameter and you had to push the filter in hard to stretch the elbow .
To be on the safe side change that elbow every 3 to 5 years because once the rubber goes a bit hard it will not be able to make an airtight seal
#15
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
Most all engine manufactures have an oil branded for them. This oil is high zink that helps lubricate the valve trane. Most of them are synthetic blends. I use the Kawasaki 10W40 in my Kohler CV20 and 33 hp Generac. I always reccomend small engine oil it is designed to operate at the higher operating tempratures of the air cooled engine. Just my 2 Cents worth. Been doing this 47 years.
#16
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
Thanks Bert. The hose clamp that holds my air filter doesn't have a wingnut, but instead it has a flathead screw which I've been tightening maybe more than I should. Sounds like good advice; and changing the rubber elbow too. I'll just tighten it down firm in the future and go with that. Due to this new info about mower oils that I was not aware of I think I'm going to change to Kawasaki oil at the end of the season. Probably their 10w40. It'll no doubt cost more but I'll pay it.Firstly oils a blended with different chemicals for different end uses
The BEST mower oils are those blended for mowers however mower engines are very crude & lazy so do not put a lot of stress on their oils
Change it at the end of every season & it will be fine
The only engine damage I have seen that was attributed to oil ( apart from the lack of it ) was a customer who was running 2 sroke marine oil in his mower because he had a 5 gallon drum left over from his old ski boat
Now the air filter
The elbow should have had a wing nut on it
And you tighten it just enough till the air filter will not turn in the rubber elbow.
The other end is fine because it clamps onto aluminum bit the filter end you are clamping onto the plastic filter that deforms and allows unfiltered air to be sucked in.
Not too big a disaster if you throw but mulching creates a lot more dust around the engine and of course bagging covers everything with dust that gets sucked in
If the filter is working properly then a damp white cotton cloth will come up clean if run around the carb mouth.
My advise s always get a tub of rubber grease and apply a smeer to the filter ( not the elbow ) insert the filter & do up finger tight .
IT is a fundamentally bad design and would work better is the filter side was smaller diameter and you had to push the filter in hard to stretch the elbow .
To be on the safe side change that elbow every 3 to 5 years because once the rubber goes a bit hard it will not be able to make an airtight seal
#17
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
Thanks man. Due to this new info about mower oils that I was not aware of I think I'm going to change to Kawasaki oil at the end of the season. Probably their 10w40. It'll no doubt cost more but I'll pay it.Most all engine manufactures have an oil branded for them. This oil is high zink that helps lubricate the valve trane. Most of them are synthetic blends. I use the Kawasaki 10W40 in my Kohler CV20 and 33 hp Generac. I always reccomend small engine oil it is designed to operate at the higher operating tempratures of the air cooled engine. Just my 2 Cents worth. Been doing this 47 years.
#18
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
Slomo, as for the cooling fins, I talked about this some in another thread. I started out intending to take the plastic housing off, got all the screws off and got to the point of removing (I forgot the name for the gizmo on the side with 3 wires on it) and at that point it looked like the housing wasn't going to come off as easily as I hoped so I just put all the screws back in. In addition, the manual said something about the housing should not be bent more than 70 degrees. That concerned me, so I just left well enough alone because a visual look at the fins that were visible on the bottom showed to be clean. No debris. Also, looking through the square holes by the air filter the portion of the fins that were visible were not clogged up. Only maybe a very small dusting was on them. So I blew a leaf blower through the square holes a bit and around the visible bottom of the fins too and let it go at that. After the season is over I'll make another attempt to remove the housing and inspect them thoroughly. But it all looked fine to me. I'm not a mower mechanic; just a consumer.One can trash an engine in 3 minutes. Loan yours to a neighbor and find out LOL.
I feel hour meters are not required and have no useful purpose other than lightening your wallet. One of those oh, good to know is all.
You need to worry about clean oil, valve adjustments and cooling fins.
#19
F
fixit1ddh
F
fixit1ddh
I have a 2015 with kt735 7000 snd it's only has around 650 hour's. And I expect to get atleast 2000 hour's from it. It still has original air filter. It all depends on how there taken care of. Biggest thing on long-term running on any air cooled engine is keeping the cooling fins cleaned, & idling after running it to let engine temp to stability & keep engine oil at full line.TWO part question:
2013 Kawasaki FR691V 23 hp 10 years old on a Toro MX5060, 350 meter hours. I live in Alabama.
1}What's considered a lot of hours on this mower engine?
2) I've always used Castrol 10w30 conventional oil. Last summer I started using Castrol 20w50 conventional oil. I did so because I asked about it at a dealer and they said it would not hurt it. Does anyone think 20w50 is not ok.
#20
S
slomo
I've never seen a used slash new to me mower with clean fins or block. Normally oil is all over the top with a nice fat bug, grass, dirt dobber, slime, grit layer on there, whew. Most mowers are filthy.
When I say clean I mean like a new engine block. Think of it as you just bought said mower and you just looked at the fins clean. Clean as in hospital clean, down to bare metal clean.
This is a yearly maintenance item in EVERY air cooled small engine manual known to us all.
Lots of posts on here where guys state that oh the fins are clean. Later they post a picture of their carb for example. And what do we all see in the background? Oil slimmed over cooling fins.
S
slomo
I hear you. You must get the cover off.Slomo, as for the cooling fins, I talked about this some in another thread. I started out intending to take the plastic housing off, got all the screws off and got to the point of removing (I forgot the name for the gizmo on the side with 3 wires on it) and at that point it looked like the housing wasn't going to come off as easily as I hoped so I just put all the screws back in. In addition, the manual said something about the housing should not be bent more than 70 degrees. That concerned me, so I just left well enough alone because a visual look at the fins that were visible on the bottom showed to be clean. No debris. Also, looking through the square holes by the air filter the portion of the fins that were visible were not clogged up. Only maybe a very small dusting was on them. So I blew a leaf blower through the square holes a bit and around the visible bottom of the fins too and let it go at that. After the season is over I'll make another attempt to remove the housing and inspect them thoroughly. But it all looked fine to me. I'm not a mower mechanic; just a consumer.
I've never seen a used slash new to me mower with clean fins or block. Normally oil is all over the top with a nice fat bug, grass, dirt dobber, slime, grit layer on there, whew. Most mowers are filthy.
When I say clean I mean like a new engine block. Think of it as you just bought said mower and you just looked at the fins clean. Clean as in hospital clean, down to bare metal clean.
This is a yearly maintenance item in EVERY air cooled small engine manual known to us all.
Lots of posts on here where guys state that oh the fins are clean. Later they post a picture of their carb for example. And what do we all see in the background? Oil slimmed over cooling fins.
#21
S
slomo
S
slomo
Use what your engine manual says to use, for your, outdoor ambient temps.Thanks man. Due to this new info about mower oils that I was not aware of I think I'm going to change to Kawasaki oil at the end of the season. Probably their 10w40. It'll no doubt cost more but I'll pay it.
#22
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
OK, I'll see about doing it then >>>> when this deep South, Alabama heat and humidity lets up. 
. Even so, as bad as it is today its not even close to what its like in south La., where I moved from. That place needs to be somewhere down in the Amazon
. Even so, as bad as it is today its not even close to what its like in south La., where I moved from. That place needs to be somewhere down in the Amazon
#23
M
MParr
M
MParr
350 hours over ten years isn’t what I would call a lot of hours.
Now to the oil. Kawasaki recommends 10W40 under normal conditions. 20W50 is acceptable in high temperatures or if it’s using oil. Kawasaki 10w40 is fine. 10w40 4T motorcycle oil will work. 20w50 v-twin motorcycle oil will work. Valvoline VR-1 20w50 will work. Mobil 1 15w50 will work.
15w40 HDEO (Diesel oil) will work. I’m currently using Rotella T5 15w40 in my Kohler. The oils that I listed are high in zinc and phosphorus content, over 1100 ppm of both additives.
Now to the air filter. @bertsmobile1 has given good advice on the air filter. I would like to add to his advice. If you are not currently using a foam pre-filter over the standard filter, you should get one. Remove the foam pre-filter every 25 hours, wash in hot soapy water, let dry, and apply a light coat of foam filter oil, before reinstalling. Most motorcycle shops carry foam filter oil in spray cans.
It’s 100F today in my part of Georgia so, I know about the summer heat you are experiencing.
Now to the oil. Kawasaki recommends 10W40 under normal conditions. 20W50 is acceptable in high temperatures or if it’s using oil. Kawasaki 10w40 is fine. 10w40 4T motorcycle oil will work. 20w50 v-twin motorcycle oil will work. Valvoline VR-1 20w50 will work. Mobil 1 15w50 will work.
15w40 HDEO (Diesel oil) will work. I’m currently using Rotella T5 15w40 in my Kohler. The oils that I listed are high in zinc and phosphorus content, over 1100 ppm of both additives.
Now to the air filter. @bertsmobile1 has given good advice on the air filter. I would like to add to his advice. If you are not currently using a foam pre-filter over the standard filter, you should get one. Remove the foam pre-filter every 25 hours, wash in hot soapy water, let dry, and apply a light coat of foam filter oil, before reinstalling. Most motorcycle shops carry foam filter oil in spray cans.
It’s 100F today in my part of Georgia so, I know about the summer heat you are experiencing.
#24
S
slomo
Most push mowers get like 25 to 40 hours a year. 0-turns typically have better engines than pushers.
S
slomo
Guys, I was JOKING when I said 349 was a lot of hours. Tough crowd......350 hours over ten years isn’t what I would call a lot of hours.
Most push mowers get like 25 to 40 hours a year. 0-turns typically have better engines than pushers.
#25
Tiger Small Engine
Oil: Change oil and filter every 50 hours. Book says 100 hours on oil and 200 on filter. Many people have gone to the 50 hour time table. Keep your oil level at full and check often. Changing oil and keeping level correct is more important than your fancy Kawasaki high zinc $10/quart oil.
Cooling fins: Book says check and clean cooling fins and top of engine once a year. Some engines are lucky if they get checked once a lifetime. I see a lot of dirty engines and a few that overheat and cause damage every year. It is an air cooled engine. The cooling fins are the radiator. Dirty fins is like running with a defective/damaged radiator in a car.
Air filter: Check/clean/replace air filter when necessary. Make sure all connection points are firm and tight. Dusting down an engine will kill it quicker than fancy $10/quart Kawasaki oil will “save it”.
Keep your equipment clean and do visual checks. Use some common sense and take pride in what you have worked hard to acquire in life.
Tiger Small Engine
Hours: Hours on equipment is like miles on a car. So it tells a lot about general life expectancy.Guys, I was JOKING when I said 349 was a lot of hours. Tough crowd......
Most push mowers get like 25 to 40 hours a year. 0-turns typically have better engines than pushers.
Oil: Change oil and filter every 50 hours. Book says 100 hours on oil and 200 on filter. Many people have gone to the 50 hour time table. Keep your oil level at full and check often. Changing oil and keeping level correct is more important than your fancy Kawasaki high zinc $10/quart oil.
Cooling fins: Book says check and clean cooling fins and top of engine once a year. Some engines are lucky if they get checked once a lifetime. I see a lot of dirty engines and a few that overheat and cause damage every year. It is an air cooled engine. The cooling fins are the radiator. Dirty fins is like running with a defective/damaged radiator in a car.
Air filter: Check/clean/replace air filter when necessary. Make sure all connection points are firm and tight. Dusting down an engine will kill it quicker than fancy $10/quart Kawasaki oil will “save it”.
Keep your equipment clean and do visual checks. Use some common sense and take pride in what you have worked hard to acquire in life.
#26
M
MParr
The OP is averaging 35 hours per year so, he’s good at changing the oil yearly.
Checking the oil level before each use is a must.
M
MParr
Good advice!Hours: Hours on equipment is like miles on a car. So it tells a lot about general life expectancy.
Oil: Change oil and filter every 50 hours. Book says 100 hours on oil and 200 on filter. Many people have gone to the 50 hour time table. Keep your oil level at full and check often. Changing oil and keeping level correct is more important than your fancy Kawasaki high zinc $10/quart oil.
Cooling fins: Book says check and clean cooling fins and top of engine once a year. Some engines are lucky if they get checked once a lifetime. I see a lot of dirty engines and a few that overheat and cause damage every year. It is an air cooled engine. The cooling fins are the radiator. Dirty fins is like running with a defective/damaged radiator in a car.
Air filter: Check/clean/replace air filter when necessary. Make sure all connection points are firm and tight. Dusting down an engine will kill it quicker than fancy $10/quart Kawasaki oil will “save it”.
Keep your equipment clean and do visual checks. Use some common sense and take pride in what you have worked hard to acquire in life.
The OP is averaging 35 hours per year so, he’s good at changing the oil yearly.
Checking the oil level before each use is a must.
#27
R
RayMcD
R
RayMcD
Ya need thin oil to get in small places, if the oil is to thick to get in the small places, the small places become larger, AKA "Wear". JMHO. Cheers, Ray
#28
B
bertsmobile1
Ten years ago they were total splash lubrication
The bigger problem is
Too thin and it won't stay in
B
bertsmobile1
Ray it is a mower not a Nascar top fuelerYa need thin oil to get in small places, if the oil is to thick to get in the small places, the small places become larger, AKA "Wear". JMHO. Cheers, Ray
Ten years ago they were total splash lubrication
The bigger problem is
Too thin and it won't stay in
#29
S
slomo
Talking about small places, that oil, any oil, is at full temp very rapidly. This is not a concern with a mower engine. It's hot and flowing in short order.
S
slomo
Take a standard push mower. Simple as mowing gets. No hidden tricks. That (good running) engine will get to full operational temp in roughly 1-3 minutes. Talking air cooled push mower. So any oil that got thinned was either diluted with fuel or someone used the wrong type, being a multi grade oil.Ya need thin oil to get in small places, if the oil is to thick to get in the small places, the small places become larger, AKA "Wear". JMHO. Cheers, Ray
Talking about small places, that oil, any oil, is at full temp very rapidly. This is not a concern with a mower engine. It's hot and flowing in short order.
#30
C
Cajun power
C
Cajun power
OR just use a standard full synthetic? just asking your opinion...most ppl are happy and fine with using standard auto oil on their air cooled 4 strokes...I've always used full synthetic...simply because it has a better thermal property and will not break down over time due to heat. also noting: few people "pickle" their engines for the winter...I smoke the upper cylinder every year with the same synthetic oil ...Got FR series engines with way over 1000 hrs on them, some with over 2000 hrs al running fine
The only ones I have has problems with were ones that the owner serviced and did the air filer clamp up too tight which allowed dust to be sucked into the engine wearing the rings .
So 2 have been re-ringed & now they have Donaldson filters on them, both are running fine , both of these were baggers
Four have needed a head repair because the single clamp bolt on the rocker housing came loose so I now check it is tight every service .
Car oils have different formulations to mower oils, but 20w 50 will not cause an engine failure the one caveat on that is to change it on the final mow for the season, every season .
The reason for this is mower oils have more corrosion inhibitors, water dispersants & anti-sludging agents than car oils because the engine sits around for 3 to 7 months each year depending upon how long the off season is in your region.
And FWIW Kawakasi Australia specify 10w40 and market their own branded 10w40
Got lots of customers who run the same oil as their car uses so they only have one oil in their shed and it stays fresh
An old addage from the vintage motorcycling movement
The best oil is what you have just drained out and the more often it is drained the better it becomes
#31
T
Timbuktu
T
Timbuktu
Been using 10w-30 all my life in my mowers. Never had any engine problems on any mowers. Don't burn oil and have over 1,200 hours on them. The manufacturer isn't going to recommend 10w-30 if it's going to damage the engine! 30 weight is for small engines like 5hp engines.
#32
S
SamB
S
SamB
Any opinion on Shell Rotella T6 15w40 full synthetic diesel oil?
It supposedly have more anti-wear additives than gasoline engine oils.
It supposedly have more anti-wear additives than gasoline engine oils.
#33
J
jcworks
Some on here have made the recommendation to using mower oil because of higher zinc content. I'm not a mechanic but I figured they knew what they're talking about.
J
jcworks
I've wondered about putting synthetic in it; didn't know if that was the thing to do or not.OR just use a standard full synthetic? just asking your opinion...most ppl are happy and fine with using standard auto oil on their air cooled 4 strokes...I've always used full synthetic...simply because it has a better thermal property and will not break down over time due to heat. also noting: few people "pickle" their engines for the winter...I smoke the upper cylinder every year with the same synthetic oil ...
Some on here have made the recommendation to using mower oil because of higher zinc content. I'm not a mechanic but I figured they knew what they're talking about.
#34
M
MowerNick
M
MowerNick
That is not too many hours for that engine but i would definitely use oil made for small engines because most of them have added zinc and i believe automotive oil does not
#35
J
jviews12
J
jviews12
Agree manual wins, do what they say. Nothing wrong with 30 weight.
More important is regular changes, and change at end of season when last run and drain gas until coughs out of gas. Anything else is evil. fresh gas in spring, not last years gas.
filter also. do not trust former owner.
More important is regular changes, and change at end of season when last run and drain gas until coughs out of gas. Anything else is evil. fresh gas in spring, not last years gas.
filter also. do not trust former owner.
#36
S
slomo
S
slomo
I can go 20,000 miles with Amsoil. Cut like 64,825,187 lawns with it.Any opinion on Shell Rotella T6 15w40 full synthetic diesel oil?
It supposedly have more anti-wear additives than gasoline engine oils.
#37
R
RevB
R
RevB
Got proof for that car vs mower oil? Yeah.....thought so.Got FR series engines with way over 1000 hrs on them, some with over 2000 hrs al running fine
The only ones I have has problems with were ones that the owner serviced and did the air filer clamp up too tight which allowed dust to be sucked into the engine wearing the rings .
So 2 have been re-ringed & now they have Donaldson filters on them, both are running fine , both of these were baggers
Four have needed a head repair because the single clamp bolt on the rocker housing came loose so I now check it is tight every service .
Car oils have different formulations to mower oils, but 20w 50 will not cause an engine failure the one caveat on that is to change it on the final mow for the season, every season .
The reason for this is mower oils have more corrosion inhibitors, water dispersants & anti-sludging agents than car oils because the engine sits around for 3 to 7 months each year depending upon how long the off season is in your region.
And FWIW Kawakasi Australia specify 10w40 and market their own branded 10w40
Got lots of customers who run the same oil as their car uses so they only have one oil in their shed and it stays fresh
An old addage from the vintage motorcycling movement
The best oil is what you have just drained out and the more often it is drained the better it becomes
#38
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Well actually I do .
I studied oils as part of an undergraduate course then again in a couple of post graduate diplomas.
I have broken them down physically & chemically
I was part of the team who originally initiated X-Ray diffraction of used oil to work out the actual alloys that were in the oil, their particle size and percentages then this was plotted agains the actual measured wear during prescribed tear downs for inspection on defence helicopter engines & from this work whole new set of maintenance proceedures were derived with substantially longer operational hours between strip downs
Back then those with lots of brass buttons thought it was all some sort of hocus pocus but after the team predicted 6 engine failures almost to the minute they took notice
Then later did some work with Bel-Ray lubricants working on variations of their blends of motorcycle oils.
So yes I do have a far better understanding of oils than the average Face Book hero who has read the sides of one too many bottles of oil or opened a couple of oil filters with a can opener .
And FWIW the last project I did with the Defence Standards Lab, renamed the Material Research Labs post Vietnam when anything military was considered dirty was to use Accoustic Emissions for the testing of pressure vessels and in particular artillery shell casings & hand held rocket but the lab got defunded, outside contracts were all cancelled so the team was disbanded .We were all head hunted to come to the USA to set up the work again but I had committments down here so I stayed put & went into foundry metallurgy then tertiary metallurgy before becoming a workers compensation risk so went into transport & finally mower repair .
But in order to have an intelligent arguement with some one the other party needs to have an open mind and from the nature of your reply I seriously doubt that you fit that criteria
So you can take it or leave it I do not give a wrinkled rats rectum what you think
I studied oils as part of an undergraduate course then again in a couple of post graduate diplomas.
I have broken them down physically & chemically
I was part of the team who originally initiated X-Ray diffraction of used oil to work out the actual alloys that were in the oil, their particle size and percentages then this was plotted agains the actual measured wear during prescribed tear downs for inspection on defence helicopter engines & from this work whole new set of maintenance proceedures were derived with substantially longer operational hours between strip downs
Back then those with lots of brass buttons thought it was all some sort of hocus pocus but after the team predicted 6 engine failures almost to the minute they took notice
Then later did some work with Bel-Ray lubricants working on variations of their blends of motorcycle oils.
So yes I do have a far better understanding of oils than the average Face Book hero who has read the sides of one too many bottles of oil or opened a couple of oil filters with a can opener .
And FWIW the last project I did with the Defence Standards Lab, renamed the Material Research Labs post Vietnam when anything military was considered dirty was to use Accoustic Emissions for the testing of pressure vessels and in particular artillery shell casings & hand held rocket but the lab got defunded, outside contracts were all cancelled so the team was disbanded .We were all head hunted to come to the USA to set up the work again but I had committments down here so I stayed put & went into foundry metallurgy then tertiary metallurgy before becoming a workers compensation risk so went into transport & finally mower repair .
But in order to have an intelligent arguement with some one the other party needs to have an open mind and from the nature of your reply I seriously doubt that you fit that criteria
So you can take it or leave it I do not give a wrinkled rats rectum what you think
#39
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Seems like this thread has evolved into “I know more than you do“, and “my oil is better than your oil”. OP’s questions have been answered many times.
#40
L
Lilranch2001
L
Lilranch2001
Well actually I do .
I had to say that’s one of the best phrases I have read on a message board!I do not give a wrinkled rats rectum what you think
#41
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Profanities should not be used on open public forums or open radio channels
IT is some thing I picked up from a radio dispatcher decades ago
IT gets very frustrating when people who obviously do not know what they are talking about demand proof that I know they would not understand even if they could access it and of course defence documents are not publically available and university papers are all behind pay walls , if they are actually available from pre internet days
Even the simplist of people can go to any oil blender and most will happily show them how they blend their secret formulas and a general idea about what is in them.
There are literally millions of molecules that can get added to oils to modify the behaviour of the base oil and they are needed because the chemistry of base oils differ depending upon where they come from.
Near 1/2 of the heavy lubricating oils used in the USA come from Australian oil fields because the crude from Bass Strait is perfect for lubrication as it has a high sulphur contents ( bad for auto & syncromesh boxes )
And then you get the stuff that oil companies like to brag about like ZZDP which is not needed in a mower engine at all as the scuffing forces between the cam lobes and the cam followers is just not high enough unless the owner has fitted high strength valve springs
On top of that a lot of the cams are actually powder pressings so retain enough oil in their pores to maintain boundary lubrication for the time the followers are in contact with the cam and because the whole shooting match is vertical & not horizontal and lubricated by splash & oil mist , not a pressurised flow through a an oil gallery .
IT is some thing I picked up from a radio dispatcher decades ago
IT gets very frustrating when people who obviously do not know what they are talking about demand proof that I know they would not understand even if they could access it and of course defence documents are not publically available and university papers are all behind pay walls , if they are actually available from pre internet days
Even the simplist of people can go to any oil blender and most will happily show them how they blend their secret formulas and a general idea about what is in them.
There are literally millions of molecules that can get added to oils to modify the behaviour of the base oil and they are needed because the chemistry of base oils differ depending upon where they come from.
Near 1/2 of the heavy lubricating oils used in the USA come from Australian oil fields because the crude from Bass Strait is perfect for lubrication as it has a high sulphur contents ( bad for auto & syncromesh boxes )
And then you get the stuff that oil companies like to brag about like ZZDP which is not needed in a mower engine at all as the scuffing forces between the cam lobes and the cam followers is just not high enough unless the owner has fitted high strength valve springs
On top of that a lot of the cams are actually powder pressings so retain enough oil in their pores to maintain boundary lubrication for the time the followers are in contact with the cam and because the whole shooting match is vertical & not horizontal and lubricated by splash & oil mist , not a pressurised flow through a an oil gallery .
#42
R
RevB
R
RevB
Still no proof.Well actually I do .
I studied oils as part of an undergraduate course then again in a couple of post graduate diplomas.
I have broken them down physically & chemically
I was part of the team who originally initiated X-Ray diffraction of used oil to work out the actual alloys that were in the oil, their particle size and percentages then this was plotted agains the actual measured wear during prescribed tear downs for inspection on defence helicopter engines & from this work whole new set of maintenance proceedures were derived with substantially longer operational hours between strip downs
Back then those with lots of brass buttons thought it was all some sort of hocus pocus but after the team predicted 6 engine failures almost to the minute they took notice
Then later did some work with Bel-Ray lubricants working on variations of their blends of motorcycle oils.
So yes I do have a far better understanding of oils than the average Face Book hero who has read the sides of one too many bottles of oil or opened a couple of oil filters with a can opener .
And FWIW the last project I did with the Defence Standards Lab, renamed the Material Research Labs post Vietnam when anything military was considered dirty was to use Accoustic Emissions for the testing of pressure vessels and in particular artillery shell casings & hand held rocket but the lab got defunded, outside contracts were all cancelled so the team was disbanded .We were all head hunted to come to the USA to set up the work again but I had committments down here so I stayed put & went into foundry metallurgy then tertiary metallurgy before becoming a workers compensation risk so went into transport & finally mower repair .
But in order to have an intelligent arguement with some one the other party needs to have an open mind and from the nature of your reply I seriously doubt that you fit that criteria
So you can take it or leave it I do not give a wrinkled rats rectum what you think
#43
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
How about hundreds and hundreds of pieces of equipment being serviced and repaired?Seeing lots of “special” oil that is dirty, low, or overfilled? It is a low compression (usually 8.5 to 1) engine revving to a maximum of 3600 RPMs. How about a nice dab of humility with a splash of common sense? There is your proof.Still no proof.
#45
R
RevB
R
RevB
At this point I'm inclined to call your previous Appeal to Authority pitch on "expertise" complete bullshit and a lie. Your claim of a difference in mower oils and any other oils is hereby rejected. "Because I said so" is not proof and either is this last little bit of puffery.How about hundreds and hundreds of pieces of equipment being serviced and repaired?Seeing lots of “special” oil that is dirty, low, or overfilled? It is a low compression (usually 8.5 to 1) engine revving to a maximum of 3600 RPMs. How about a nice dab of humility with a splash of common sense? There is your proof.
#46
R
RevB
R
RevB
Nah...no history. When statements are made that cannot be backed up with evidence....good hard scientific evidence instead of the Appeal to Authority type of "evidence" then it gets called out.I am going to ass-u-me that revb and Bert has some sort of history on here….
#48
L
Lilranch2001
L
Lilranch2001
Kinda sorta sounds like you enjoy the argumentNah...no history. When statements are made that cannot be backed up with evidence....good hard scientific evidence instead of the Appeal to Authority type of "evidence" then it gets called out.
#49
S
SamB
S
SamB
As in: "My puddle is further from my feet than yours is!" :-DKinda sorta sounds like you enjoy the argument
#50
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
And as previously mentioned
I do not give a wrinkled rats rectum
If you want to believe there is no difference in the additive packages blended into different oils so car and mower oils are all the same just having different coloured dies in them to make them look different so it is all a scam then you are welcome to your beliefs .
I no longer get paid to educate people
And it is good not to take anything read on line as 100% gospel truth .
the information is there if you want to find it there are a lot of oil blenders who will be delighted to explain the differences in great detail and of course why their oil is better than brand X oil
Kohler put a very superficial explaination on You Tube Car Vs mower oil and if you do their certification course there is a more detailed explaination .
Noria ( a company I may or may not have had an association with in the past ) is a specialist industrial plant management company that specializes in fluids ( Lubricants, cutting fluids , oils & greases ) who put out an excellent range of publications that are now mostly on line and have a comprehensive set of publications as well as training courses
On other forums I have used their E-Zine Machinery Lubrication to explain the difference between Detergents & Dispersants which thanks to You Tube idiots now seem to be interchangable , although Detergents are dispersants but dispersants are not detergents and neither of them actually clean a dirty engine , that is the job of solvents & alkanizers
I think it was Simon & Garfunkel who sang "A man hears what he wants to hear & disregards the rest "
And this is generally the mind set of those who come out with a simple "Prove it" and no matter what is said or done they will neither listen nor try to understand.
Some one who want to know will say "Please explain"
After all there is almost 1/3 of the US population believe President Trump actually won the last election to the point some were willing to put their lives on the line to prove it .
There are people who believe that G5 phone towers caused Covid 19 and if you say otherwise they come at your with a "prove it"
And despite what is happening right now the climate change deniers still say "prove it "
And with this I shall bow out of this post as it is no longer serving any useful purpose and will very quickly degenerate into a slinging match .
I do not give a wrinkled rats rectum
If you want to believe there is no difference in the additive packages blended into different oils so car and mower oils are all the same just having different coloured dies in them to make them look different so it is all a scam then you are welcome to your beliefs .
I no longer get paid to educate people
And it is good not to take anything read on line as 100% gospel truth .
the information is there if you want to find it there are a lot of oil blenders who will be delighted to explain the differences in great detail and of course why their oil is better than brand X oil
Kohler put a very superficial explaination on You Tube Car Vs mower oil and if you do their certification course there is a more detailed explaination .
Noria ( a company I may or may not have had an association with in the past ) is a specialist industrial plant management company that specializes in fluids ( Lubricants, cutting fluids , oils & greases ) who put out an excellent range of publications that are now mostly on line and have a comprehensive set of publications as well as training courses
On other forums I have used their E-Zine Machinery Lubrication to explain the difference between Detergents & Dispersants which thanks to You Tube idiots now seem to be interchangable , although Detergents are dispersants but dispersants are not detergents and neither of them actually clean a dirty engine , that is the job of solvents & alkanizers
I think it was Simon & Garfunkel who sang "A man hears what he wants to hear & disregards the rest "
And this is generally the mind set of those who come out with a simple "Prove it" and no matter what is said or done they will neither listen nor try to understand.
Some one who want to know will say "Please explain"
After all there is almost 1/3 of the US population believe President Trump actually won the last election to the point some were willing to put their lives on the line to prove it .
There are people who believe that G5 phone towers caused Covid 19 and if you say otherwise they come at your with a "prove it"
And despite what is happening right now the climate change deniers still say "prove it "
And with this I shall bow out of this post as it is no longer serving any useful purpose and will very quickly degenerate into a slinging match .
#51
J
jcworks
J
jcworks
MowerNick, thanks. Yes, I have about decided that. I've always used just regular oil off the shelf....good brands of course. But, I think I'll pay the higher price for the mower oil and not have to be concerned. Since its a Kawasaki engine I'll likely just bite the bullet and buy Kawasaki brand 10w40. I'm in the Deep South so I'll just go with the 10w40. If they offer just straight 40w I think I would just do that; but as someone here mentioned its hard to find that.That is not too many hours for that engine but i would definitely use oil made for small engines because most of them have added zinc and i believe automotive oil does not
#52
J
jcworks
'
J
jcworks
Bert, I had no idea you had done that. Thanks a bunch. You've gone to lengths to help out with previous questions I had [especially my question about the hydros if you recall]. That was a huge help. As for my next oil, I'm thinking I'll just bite the bullet and pay a couple dollars more at next oil change (end of season) and go with Kawasaki 10w40. What do you think on that? I assume their oil at the dealer will be a "mower oil". I'm thinking 10w40 because the manual OKs that in the high temps we have in Alabama.Well actually I do .
I studied oils as part of an undergraduate course then again in a couple of post graduate diplomas.
I have broken them down physically & chemically
I was part of the team who originally initiated X-Ray diffraction of used oil to work out the actual alloys that were in the oil, their particle size and percentages then this was plotted agains the actual measured wear during prescribed tear downs for inspection on defence helicopter engines & from this work whole new set of maintenance proceedures were derived with substantially longer operational hours between strip downs
Back then those with lots of brass buttons thought it was all some sort of hocus pocus but after the team predicted 6 engine failures almost to the minute they took notice
Then later did some work with Bel-Ray lubricants working on variations of their blends of motorcycle oils.
So yes I do have a far better understanding of oils than the average Face Book hero who has read the sides of one too many bottles of oil or opened a couple of oil filters with a can opener .
And FWIW the last project I did with the Defence Standards Lab, renamed the Material Research Labs post Vietnam when anything military was considered dirty was to use Accoustic Emissions for the testing of pressure vessels and in particular artillery shell casings & hand held rocket but the lab got defunded, outside contracts were all cancelled so the team was disbanded .We were all head hunted to come to the USA to set up the work again but I had committments down here so I stayed put & went into foundry metallurgy then tertiary metallurgy before becoming a workers compensation risk so went into transport & finally mower repair .
But in order to have an intelligent arguement with some one the other party needs to have an open mind and from the nature of your reply I seriously doubt that you fit that criteria
So you can take it or leave it I do not give a wrinkled rats rectum what you think
'
#53
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
I rarely mention the "previous life" a people should read what is written then independently verify rather than taking anything read as gospel truth.
I can ( and have ) been just as wrong as the next man but my science background makes me appreciate when I am proven to be wrong .
Science is nothing more than the best explaination that we can postulate with the information &/or technology at the time .
So as our understanding changes so do the "facts" .
This is why I have no signature line .
Academic qualification do not mean you are always correct
There were real scientists who said smoking was good for you and funny enough some of the same ones are now saying climate change is a hoax ,
Very few people understand oils and I do not claim to be an expert either , there are a swathe of specialist courses up to Phd level specific to oil.
they understand I just know enough to sort the BS from the facts
There was not much on the tele tonight so I went back & added a few links to the previous reply that you might like to check out .
There used to be a site out of Germany called "The Oil University" or some thing like that along the same lines as "the Battery University " that I was trying to find a ink for so readers other than RevB could read & expand their understanding but I can not find it .
It is amazing how may people will argue black & blue that "detergent oils" clean dirty old engines because they saw it on a TV commercial
I can ( and have ) been just as wrong as the next man but my science background makes me appreciate when I am proven to be wrong .
Science is nothing more than the best explaination that we can postulate with the information &/or technology at the time .
So as our understanding changes so do the "facts" .
This is why I have no signature line .
Academic qualification do not mean you are always correct
There were real scientists who said smoking was good for you and funny enough some of the same ones are now saying climate change is a hoax ,
Very few people understand oils and I do not claim to be an expert either , there are a swathe of specialist courses up to Phd level specific to oil.
they understand I just know enough to sort the BS from the facts
There was not much on the tele tonight so I went back & added a few links to the previous reply that you might like to check out .
There used to be a site out of Germany called "The Oil University" or some thing like that along the same lines as "the Battery University " that I was trying to find a ink for so readers other than RevB could read & expand their understanding but I can not find it .
It is amazing how may people will argue black & blue that "detergent oils" clean dirty old engines because they saw it on a TV commercial
#54
S
SamB
S
SamB
Not to drag you back into the oil discussion, bertsmobile1, but I use the T6 in my OHC Ford non-cat converter 2.5 engine that holds 5 quarts. The oil comes in gallon containers, so I have some on hand after an oil change. It's no doubt overkill in the mowers , but I know Ford had a lot of issues with high wear on the cam and followers due to oil issues, so I use the T6. It's going on 300,000 miles so far.And as previously mentioned
I do not give a wrinkled rats rectum
If you want to believe there is no difference in the additive packages blended into different oils so car and mower oils are all the same just having different coloured dies in them to make them look different so it is all a scam then you are welcome to your beliefs .
I no longer get paid to educate people
And it is good not to take anything read on line as 100% gospel truth .
the information is there if you want to find it there are a lot of oil blenders who will be delighted to explain the differences in great detail and of course why their oil is better than brand X oil
Kohler put a very superficial explaination on You Tube Car Vs mower oil and if you do their certification course there is a more detailed explaination .
Noria ( a company I may or may not have had an association with in the past ) is a specialist industrial plant management company that specializes in fluids ( Lubricants, cutting fluids , oils & greases ) who put out an excellent range of publications that are now mostly on line and have a comprehensive set of publications as well as training courses
On other forums I have used their E-Zine Machinery Lubrication to explain the difference between Detergents & Dispersants which thanks to You Tube idiots now seem to be interchangable , although Detergents are dispersants but dispersants are not detergents and neither of them actually clean a dirty engine , that is the job of solvents & alkanizers
I think it was Simon & Garfunkel who sang "A man hears what he wants to hear & disregards the rest "
And this is generally the mind set of those who come out with a simple "Prove it" and no matter what is said or done they will neither listen nor try to understand.
Some one who want to know will say "Please explain"
After all there is almost 1/3 of the US population believe President Trump actually won the last election to the point some were willing to put their lives on the line to prove it .
There are people who believe that G5 phone towers caused Covid 19 and if you say otherwise they come at your with a "prove it"
And despite what is happening right now the climate change deniers still say "prove it "
And with this I shall bow out of this post as it is no longer serving any useful purpose and will very quickly degenerate into a slinging match .
Attachments
#55
Tiger Small Engine
Servicing one or two pieces of equipment a year versus hundreds often qualifies for more experience (in Disney Land). Please by all means, keep spending extra money for “mower oil.” This is the sort of thing that keeps the economy going.
Tiger Small Engine
You can lead a horse to water…but you can’t make him drink. Prove it.Not to drag you back into the oil discussion, bertsmobile1, but I use the T6 in my OHC Ford non-cat converter 2.5 engine that holds 5 quarts. The oil comes in gallon containers, so I have some on hand after an oil change. It's no doubt overkill in the mowers , but I know Ford had a lot of issues with high wear on the cam and followers due to oil issues, so I use the T6. It's going on 300,000 miles so far.
Servicing one or two pieces of equipment a year versus hundreds often qualifies for more experience (in Disney Land). Please by all means, keep spending extra money for “mower oil.” This is the sort of thing that keeps the economy going.
#56
S
slomo
S
slomo
T6 isn't mower oil, is it???? Shell T6 right?You can lead a horse to water…but you can’t make him drink. Prove it.
Servicing one or two pieces of equipment a year versus hundreds often qualifies for more experience (in Disney Land). Please by all means, keep spending extra money for “mower oil.” This is the sort of thing that keeps the economy going.
#57
S
SamB
S
SamB
Nope, not 'mower oil'. Full synthetic diesel engine oil. It's NOT compatible with catalytic converters, due to additives. Shell Rotella. T6 Recommended for vintage muscle cars.T6 isn't mower oil, is it???? Shell T6 right?
#58
G
GrumpyCat
G
GrumpyCat
I haven't seen it on TV but I will agree detergent motor oils will keep an engine clean, probably not do much to clean a dirty engine. If you disagree then I suggest you consider how dark used motor oil comes out of a diesel engine. This is soot, pure and simple, being kept in suspension by the detergent properties of the motor oil. Used diesel motor oil is nasty stuff to get on anything such as your hands or clothing.It is amazing how may people will argue black & blue that "detergent oils" clean dirty old engines because they saw it on a TV commercial
#59
G
GrumpyCat
Guessing some of the chemistry for neutralizing gasoline combustion byproducts is still in the oil you buy today, but this is only a guess, and is certain to disappear in the future.
You think I am being a conspiracy theorist? In ancient times Mobil-1 decided their automotive oil would be a great product for the aviation market, at a much greater price of course. They made very few changes. Somehow got the oil certified (or self-certified). Then not long after aviation engines started failing prematurely on Aviation Mobil-1. Most aviation engines use leaded gasoline. Mobil-1 was not formulated to handle combustion byproducts from lead. Couldn't neutralize the acids formed or something like that. Mobil-1 bought a lot of new engines for pilots, and exited the market with tail tucked between their legs.
G
GrumpyCat
T6 recently lost it's API gasoline engine S rating. The old T6 was a fantastic "fleet oil", equally good for gasoline and diesel engines. The new is not. The S rating had to be sacrificed to protect expensive diesel emissions equipment such as the DEF and SCR.Nope, not 'mower oil'. Full synthetic diesel engine oil. It's NOT compatible with catalytic converters, due to additives. Shell Rotella. T6 Recommended for vintage muscle cars.
Guessing some of the chemistry for neutralizing gasoline combustion byproducts is still in the oil you buy today, but this is only a guess, and is certain to disappear in the future.
You think I am being a conspiracy theorist? In ancient times Mobil-1 decided their automotive oil would be a great product for the aviation market, at a much greater price of course. They made very few changes. Somehow got the oil certified (or self-certified). Then not long after aviation engines started failing prematurely on Aviation Mobil-1. Most aviation engines use leaded gasoline. Mobil-1 was not formulated to handle combustion byproducts from lead. Couldn't neutralize the acids formed or something like that. Mobil-1 bought a lot of new engines for pilots, and exited the market with tail tucked between their legs.
#60
S
SamB
S
SamB
Remember, I said "Diesel" T6, not T6 Multi engine. Two different oil formulations. T6 Diesel should not be used in any modern gasoline automobile/truck engines. As others have stated, STAY with your engine makers, B&S, Kawasaki, etc, recommended mower oil for peace of mind and warranty protection.T6 recently lost it's API gasoline engine S rating. The old T6 was a fantastic "fleet oil", equally good for gasoline and diesel engines. The new is not. The S rating had to be sacrificed to protect expensive diesel emissions equipment such as the DEF and SCR.
Guessing some of the chemistry for neutralizing gasoline combustion byproducts is still in the oil you buy today, but this is only a guess, and is certain to disappear in the future.
You think I am being a conspiracy theorist? In ancient times Mobil-1 decided their automotive oil would be a great product for the aviation market, at a much greater price of course. They made very few changes. Somehow got the oil certified (or self-certified). Then not long after aviation engines started failing prematurely on Aviation Mobil-1. Most aviation engines use leaded gasoline. Mobil-1 was not formulated to handle combustion byproducts from lead. Couldn't neutralize the acids formed or something like that. Mobil-1 bought a lot of new engines for pilots, and exited the market with tail tucked between their legs.