Hours on a mower

[jcworks]

TWO part question:
2013 Kawasaki FR691V 23 hp 10 years old on a Toro MX5060, 350 meter hours. I live in Alabama.

1}What's considered a lot of hours on this mower engine?

2) I've always used Castrol 10w30 conventional oil. Last summer I started using Castrol 20w50 conventional oil. I did so because I asked about it at a dealer and they said it would not hurt it. Does anyone think 20w50 is not ok.

 

[slomo]

1}What's considered a lot of hours on this mower engine?

349.

Does anyone think 20w50 is not ok.

I would follow YOUR engine manual for oil specs. Normally Kawi's take SAE 30w or 10w-30. Out of those I would use SAE 30 and never look back.

Forget what anyone at a mower shop states over the factory engine manual.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

350 hours is very low hours. A well maintained Kawasaki engine can run up to 2000 hours without complete rebuild. Just a guideline and emphasis on well maintained. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Rivets]

Slomo, I’m from the mower repair shop and I say it’s OK to switch most small engines over to the 10W-30 oil. Most engine manufacturers now recommend it, as 30W is getting harder to find.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Got FR series engines with way over 1000 hrs on them, some with over 2000 hrs al running fine
The only ones I have has problems with were ones that the owner serviced and did the air filer clamp up too tight which allowed dust to be sucked into the engine wearing the rings .
So 2 have been re-ringed & now they have Donaldson filters on them, both are running fine , both of these were baggers
Four have needed a head repair because the single clamp bolt on the rocker housing came loose so I now check it is tight every service .

Car oils have different formulations to mower oils, but 20w 50 will not cause an engine failure the one caveat on that is to change it on the final mow for the season, every season .
The reason for this is mower oils have more corrosion inhibitors, water dispersants & anti-sludging agents than car oils because the engine sits around for 3 to 7 months each year depending upon how long the off season is in your region.
And FWIW Kawakasi Australia specify 10w40 and market their own branded 10w40

Got lots of customers who run the same oil as their car uses so they only have one oil in their shed and it stays fresh
An old addage from the vintage motorcycling movement
The best oil is what you have just drained out and the more often it is drained the better it becomes

 

[hlw49]

Kawasaki has a 20W50 oil it is the one with the blue top. They reccomend it in hotter climates. I would adjust the valves in the engine if you have not already done it. Kawasaki reccoments adjusting them @ 300 hours. I have seen them pop the heads off the valves if this is not done. To me this is the weakest part of the engine. Don't like they way they have to adjust the valves poor design on the smaller engines.

 

[jcworks]

Kawasaki has a 20W50 oil it is the one with the blue top. They reccomend it in hotter climates. I would adjust the valves in the engine if you have not already done it. Kawasaki reccoments adjusting them @ 300 hours. I have seen them pop the heads off the valves if this is not done. To me this is the weakest part of the engine. Don't like they way they have to adjust the valves poor design on the smaller engines.

I would not begin to know how to adjust valves or what to look for.

 

[jcworks]

Kawasaki has a 20W50 oil it is the one with the blue top. They reccomend it in hotter climates. I would adjust the valves in the engine if you have not already done it. Kawasaki reccoments adjusting them @ 300 hours. I have seen them pop the heads off the valves if this is not done. To me this is the weakest part of the engine. Don't like they way they have to adjust the valves poor design on the smaller engines.

Alabama. But anywhere in the deep South it is often in the 90+ degree range.

 

[jcworks]

Got FR series engines with way over 1000 hrs on them, some with over 2000 hrs al running fine
The only ones I have has problems with were ones that the owner serviced and did the air filer clamp up too tight which allowed dust to be sucked into the engine wearing the rings .
So 2 have been re-ringed & now they have Donaldson filters on them, both are running fine , both of these were baggers
Four have needed a head repair because the single clamp bolt on the rocker housing came loose so I now check it is tight every service .

Car oils have different formulations to mower oils, but 20w 50 will not cause an engine failure the one caveat on that is to change it on the final mow for the season, every season .
The reason for this is mower oils have more corrosion inhibitors, water dispersants & anti-sludging agents than car oils because the engine sits around for 3 to 7 months each year depending upon how long the off season is in your region.
And FWIW Kawakasi Australia specify 10w40 and market their own branded 10w40

Got lots of customers who run the same oil as their car uses so they only have one oil in their shed and it stays fresh
An old addage from the vintage motorcycling movement
The best oil is what you have just drained out and the more often it is drained the better it becomes

Bert, I didn't know there was a "mower" oil. I've just used the Castrol off the shelf oil at Walmart or an auto parts store.

**Question for you** : You said some folks clamp the air filter too tight allowing dust to be sucked in. I tighten mine fairly tight with a flathead screwdriver. Did you mean to say "did NOT do it too tight ?

 

[slomo]

I say it’s OK to switch most small engines over to the 10W-30 oil.

That is a 10 grade oil (thin), with viscosity index improvers, acting like a 30w, when hot (212F). Let that soak in.

SAE 30 is just that. A 30 grade oil all day long.

SAE 30 is at every wallymart I know of. How much easier can it get?

Being a shop guy like yourself, you want one oil to do it all. I get it. As well as you do not OWN said equipment looking for max life and so on. I get it.

Use what you like. That 10w-30 is better than a dry sump.