Hours between oil changes

[djdicetn]

1920 hours divided by 21 years = 91.428 hours per year divided by 5 months (April 1/2, May, June, July, August, September 1/2 = 18.28 hours per month. Then add in 8 to ten years of winter snow blowing. This is just easy averaging but I do have a compleate log of all service and maintenance that is very accurate.

The contaminents in the oil (dirt) is more related to the internal combustion engine and its carburation ineffency than actual dirt contamination. Altho the air breather systems of the early 1990's left a lot to be desired by todays standard.

I know it was mentioned that it gets costly buying synthetic oil at $8.00+ but in 1992 I was buying it for under $3.00.

I guess in the end it goes back to the old oil commercial that went like this " PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER"

No right no wrong just personal preferences.

When I met my wife in 1981 she had a 1979 Mustang Cobra that had NEVER had an oil change!!! Needless to say by 1985, after we married, we were trading that car in:0)

 

[reynoldston]

When I met my wife in 1981 she had a 1979 Mustang Cobra that had NEVER had an oil change!!! Needless to say by 1985, after we married, we were trading that car in:0)

They sure have come a long ways since 1979 in cars and oil. It is getting very common to see cars with over 200,000 miles and still going strong and with modern commercial trucks over a million miles. When I first started driving a car you changed the oil every 1000 miles and now I change mine at 20,000 miles.

 

[Packard8]

I would agree with rivets, but if it is air cooled, I would use synthetic. It deals much better with the higher oil temperature seen in an air cooled engine.

Larry

I've been on the fence re syn vs. dino until I recently tuned up a Briggs & Stratton 12.5 HP I/C. I set the idle and governor to 700 RPM idle and 3500 RPM WOT. I then drained the fairly fresh conventional 30 wt and filled with Mobil 1 10W30. Started it up and the tach read 900 RPM idle and 3900 RPM WOT with no adjustment to the carb or governor. To me that indicates less internal friction which should result in longer life and improved fuel efficiency.

Whether the difference in cost is justified is another story.

 

[PVHIII]

I've been on the fence re syn vs. dino until I recently tuned up a Briggs & Stratton 12.5 HP I/C. I set the idle and governor to 700 RPM idle and 3500 RPM WOT. I then drained the fairly fresh conventional 30 wt and filled with Mobil 1 10W30. Started it up and the tach read 900 RPM idle and 3900 RPM WOT with no adjustment to the carb or governor. To me that indicates less internal friction which should result in longer life and improved fuel efficiency.

Whether the difference in cost is justified is another story.

Very interesting post...I run Royal Purple in EVERY engine I own