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Hours between oil changes
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
I would recommend changing your oil every 50 hours or if you don't use it that often, then the beginning of each season. If you are working in a dusty/dirty environment or extreme heat, you might want to reduce that to every 35 hours. Don't forget the air filter also.
#3
MBDiagMan
MBDiagMan
I would agree with rivets, but if it is air cooled, I would use synthetic. It deals much better with the higher oil temperature seen in an air cooled engine.
Larry
Larry
#4
Ric
Ric
Change your oil and filter every fifty hours or If you are working in a dusty/dirty environment more often. I'd go with what the manual and the manufacturer says to run. Most all the manufacturers call or recommend a detergent oil of SG, SH, SJ or SL for oil type, not a synthetic. I don't think I've ever seen a manual that recommended synthetic oil for a mower. 
#5
MBDiagMan
MBDiagMan
Ric,
I was trying to download a .pdf of the Kohler Command Pro 25 Owners Manual to show you, but it only downloads part of it. I have a copy on my IPad at home.
I ASSURE you that it is very clear in it's approval of the use of synthetic oil in the correct Viscosity range. It warns not to extend the oil change interval if used.
If the OP has an air cooled engine it is likely a Kohler Command Pro.
Larry
I was trying to download a .pdf of the Kohler Command Pro 25 Owners Manual to show you, but it only downloads part of it. I have a copy on my IPad at home.
I ASSURE you that it is very clear in it's approval of the use of synthetic oil in the correct Viscosity range. It warns not to extend the oil change interval if used.
If the OP has an air cooled engine it is likely a Kohler Command Pro.
Larry
#6
Carscw
Mine says you can run synthetic
I run 10w30 and change it every Saturday and filter every two weeks
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
Carscw
Change your oil and filter every fifty hours or If you are working in a dusty/dirty environment more often. I'd go with what the manual and the manufacturer says to run. Most all the manufacturers call or recommend a detergent oil of SG, SH, SJ or SL for oil type, not a synthetic. I don't think I've ever seen a manual that recommended synthetic oil for a mower. <img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17317"/>
Mine says you can run synthetic
I run 10w30 and change it every Saturday and filter every two weeks
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
#7
Ric
Yes I know what it says, I have the manuals for the Kohler Courage 20 and 22hp engines and both my manuals Recommend a High Quality Detergent oil of API service class SG,SH, SJ or higher. It does say in the Temperature table that USE of synthetic oil having 5w20 or 5w30rating is acceptable. Now I don't know about anyone else but being acceptable is not the same as being Recommended in my book. I run the Mobil 5000 10w30 and I have for years and never had any problems in air cooled engines.
Ric
Mine says you can run synthetic
I run 10w30 and change it every Saturday and filter every two weeks
View attachment 17319
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
Yes I know what it says, I have the manuals for the Kohler Courage 20 and 22hp engines and both my manuals Recommend a High Quality Detergent oil of API service class SG,SH, SJ or higher. It does say in the Temperature table that USE of synthetic oil having 5w20 or 5w30rating is acceptable. Now I don't know about anyone else but being acceptable is not the same as being Recommended in my book. I run the Mobil 5000 10w30 and I have for years and never had any problems in air cooled engines.
#8
MBDiagMan
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but a synthetic with an SG, SH, SJ or higher would seem to be a "High Quality Detergent" oil. I personally have been slow to get on the synthetic band wagon, but now that I have run a few vehicles in excess of 250,000 miles and one to 333,000 miles on the stuff, I have gotten to be a believer.
One of the real advantages of synthetic is it's ability to deal with high oil temperature. It would seem that this characteristic would be quite well suited for an air cooled engine in the event that some strange condition gets the fins plugged with grass or trash, there is some extra margin until the fins are cleaned out. I believe that Mobil 5000 is also a good choice.
I really don't like oil threads that get contentious. I think that what leads to this is that today, all premium oils are of quite high quality as opposed to the crap that we had to use in the fifties and sixties. For this reason there are many oils out there that have served people very well, so they want to share their experiences of success with others.
My $0.02,
Larry
MBDiagMan
Yes I know what it says, I have the manuals for the Kohler Courage 20 and 22hp engines and both my manuals Recommend a High Quality Detergent oil of API service class SG,SH, SJ or higher. It does say in the Temperature table that USE of synthetic oil having 5w20 or 5w30rating is acceptable. Now I don't know about anyone else but being acceptable is not the same as being Recommended in my book. I run the Mobil 5000 10w30 and I have for years and never had any problems in air cooled engines.
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but a synthetic with an SG, SH, SJ or higher would seem to be a "High Quality Detergent" oil. I personally have been slow to get on the synthetic band wagon, but now that I have run a few vehicles in excess of 250,000 miles and one to 333,000 miles on the stuff, I have gotten to be a believer.
One of the real advantages of synthetic is it's ability to deal with high oil temperature. It would seem that this characteristic would be quite well suited for an air cooled engine in the event that some strange condition gets the fins plugged with grass or trash, there is some extra margin until the fins are cleaned out. I believe that Mobil 5000 is also a good choice.
I really don't like oil threads that get contentious. I think that what leads to this is that today, all premium oils are of quite high quality as opposed to the crap that we had to use in the fifties and sixties. For this reason there are many oils out there that have served people very well, so they want to share their experiences of success with others.
My $0.02,
Larry
#9
djdicetn
I hear ya.....I've bantered back & forth in threads debating synthetic/non-synthetic and it's pretty pointless. Either, if changed regularly(commonly agreed upon as 50 hours or seasonal, whichever comes first), will keep an engine like new. However, the point I tend to get "argumentative" about if using non-synthetic is that a single viscosity(i.e. SAE30) will over the years prevent oil consumption versus a 10w30, etc. multi-viscosity and I believe most small engine manufacturers' engine owner manuals will concur to the accuracy of that. I too, would prefer not to escalte that opinion into a debate:0)
djdicetn
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but a synthetic with an SG, SH, SJ or higher would seem to be a "High Quality Detergent" oil. I personally have been slow to get on the synthetic band wagon, but now that I have run a few vehicles in excess of 250,000 miles and one to 333,000 miles on the stuff, I have gotten to be a believer.
One of the real advantages of synthetic is it's ability to deal with high oil temperature. It would seem that this characteristic would be quite well suited for an air cooled engine in the event that some strange condition gets the fins plugged with grass or trash, there is some extra margin until the fins are cleaned out. I believe that Mobil 5000 is also a good choice.
I really don't like oil threads that get contentious. I think that what leads to this is that today, all premium oils are of quite high quality as opposed to the crap that we had to use in the fifties and sixties. For this reason there are many oils out there that have served people very well, so they want to share their experiences of success with others.
My $0.02,
Larry
I hear ya.....I've bantered back & forth in threads debating synthetic/non-synthetic and it's pretty pointless. Either, if changed regularly(commonly agreed upon as 50 hours or seasonal, whichever comes first), will keep an engine like new. However, the point I tend to get "argumentative" about if using non-synthetic is that a single viscosity(i.e. SAE30) will over the years prevent oil consumption versus a 10w30, etc. multi-viscosity and I believe most small engine manufacturers' engine owner manuals will concur to the accuracy of that. I too, would prefer not to escalte that opinion into a debate:0)
#10
Ric
As much of a believer as you are in synthetic, I'm just the opposite. I see no advantage to running synthetic. If synthetic oil is called for in a car or a mower engine the manufacturer would say so and not list it as an alternative. People go out and spend from $7 to $11 a quart for the stuff depending what you buy and believe me that's great if you want to spend that much money to make yourself feel good, but if you change oil as often as I do, in five different mowers you'd change your tune in a hurry. I mean really 26 plus dollars a change for each or both my ZTR's every three weeks or fifty hours can get rather expensive when you consider it cost me less than $12 with a filter now.
Ric
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but a synthetic with an SG, SH, SJ or higher would seem to be a "High Quality Detergent" oil. I personally have been slow to get on the synthetic band wagon, but now that I have run a few vehicles in excess of 250,000 miles and one to 333,000 miles on the stuff, I have gotten to be a believer.
One of the real advantages of synthetic is it's ability to deal with high oil temperature. It would seem that this characteristic would be quite well suited for an air cooled engine in the event that some strange condition gets the fins plugged with grass or trash, there is some extra margin until the fins are cleaned out. I believe that Mobil 5000 is also a good choice.
I really don't like oil threads that get contentious. I think that what leads to this is that today, all premium oils are of quite high quality as opposed to the crap that we had to use in the fifties and sixties. For this reason there are many oils out there that have served people very well, so they want to share their experiences of success with others.
My $0.02,
Larry
As much of a believer as you are in synthetic, I'm just the opposite. I see no advantage to running synthetic. If synthetic oil is called for in a car or a mower engine the manufacturer would say so and not list it as an alternative. People go out and spend from $7 to $11 a quart for the stuff depending what you buy and believe me that's great if you want to spend that much money to make yourself feel good, but if you change oil as often as I do, in five different mowers you'd change your tune in a hurry. I mean really 26 plus dollars a change for each or both my ZTR's every three weeks or fifty hours can get rather expensive when you consider it cost me less than $12 with a filter now.
#11
djdicetn
That's another reason(price) that I've never been convinced of the benefits of synthetics(aside from the fact that I have a Chevy Silverado that has 135K miles on the original 350 V8 using regular ole Penzoil and still it's oil consumption is negligible). With my retirement looming, I wouldn't be able to justify the cost of synthetic on a fixed income(of course in reality I've ALWAYS been on a fixed income, just a little more each month:0)
And, the argument of only changing the oil "once a year" with synthetic just won't get it with me....I'm just too "old school" for automotive applications(dirty oil is dirty oil:0) and religiously put fresh oil and new filter every 3,000 miles(even though Ford recommended every 5,000 on the 2001 Lincoln LS I bought my wife). Again, regular Penzoil and with 135k+ miles on it the oil level doesn't drop ANY between oil changes. If it ain't broke.....I'm not gonna fix it:0)
djdicetn
As much of a believer as you are in synthetic, I'm just the opposite. I see no advantage to running synthetic. If synthetic oil is called for in a car or a mower engine the manufacturer would say so and not list it as an alternative. People go out and spend from $7 to $11 a quart for the stuff depending what you buy and believe me that's great if you want to spend that much money to make yourself feel good, but if you change oil as often as I do, in five different mowers you'd change your tune in a hurry. I mean really 26 plus dollars a change for each or both my ZTR's every three weeks or fifty hours can get rather expensive when you consider it cost me less than $12 with a filter now. View attachment 17321
That's another reason(price) that I've never been convinced of the benefits of synthetics(aside from the fact that I have a Chevy Silverado that has 135K miles on the original 350 V8 using regular ole Penzoil and still it's oil consumption is negligible). With my retirement looming, I wouldn't be able to justify the cost of synthetic on a fixed income(of course in reality I've ALWAYS been on a fixed income, just a little more each month:0)
And, the argument of only changing the oil "once a year" with synthetic just won't get it with me....I'm just too "old school" for automotive applications(dirty oil is dirty oil:0) and religiously put fresh oil and new filter every 3,000 miles(even though Ford recommended every 5,000 on the 2001 Lincoln LS I bought my wife). Again, regular Penzoil and with 135k+ miles on it the oil level doesn't drop ANY between oil changes. If it ain't broke.....I'm not gonna fix it:0)
#12
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
To my knowledge, Briggs & Stratton is the only small engine manufacturer that recommends synthetic engine oil in some of their engines. I use B&S 30 weight oil in my Briggs powered Scag, 5W30 synthetic in my Vanguard powered Ingersoll GT, mostly winter use. I use Kawasaki 30 weight in my Kawasaki powered Hustler X-ONE.
Having found some info about the differences in synthetic engine oils between manufacturers, I've decided to use quality fossil oil in my summer use machines and should an engine warranty situation arise, I have the records of what the oil, filters, and change intervals are.
Mad Mackie in CT
Retired aircraft mech!!
Having found some info about the differences in synthetic engine oils between manufacturers, I've decided to use quality fossil oil in my summer use machines and should an engine warranty situation arise, I have the records of what the oil, filters, and change intervals are.
Mad Mackie in CT
Retired aircraft mech!!
#13
MBDiagMan
I lifted the text below from the Kohler owner manual. It is in Kohlers best interest to push the sale of their own oil.
"We recommend use of Kohler oils for best
performance. Other high-quality detergent
oils (including synthetic) of API (American
Petroleum Institute) service class SJ or higher
are acceptable. Select viscosity based on air
temperature at time of operation as shown in
table below."
The important thing for everyone is to use what they see fit. The good news is that most all modern premium oils are very good. It's tough to go wrong.
I am of the belief that synthetic has a higher useful temperature. Right or wrong, this is why I choose synthetic. Changing two quarts every 50 hours costs about $8 or so more money with synthetic. As expen$ive as small engines are these days, I am perfectly willing to lay out a few extra bucks for what I feel is the best insurance.
Larry
MBDiagMan
To my knowledge, Briggs & Stratton is the only small engine manufacturer that recommends synthetic engine oil in some of their engines. I use B&S 30 weight oil in my Briggs powered Scag, 5W30 synthetic in my Vanguard powered Ingersoll GT, mostly winter use. I use Kawasaki 30 weight in my Kawasaki powered Hustler X-ONE.
Having found some info about the differences in synthetic engine oils between manufacturers, I've decided to use quality fossil oil in my summer use machines and should an engine warranty situation arise, I have the records of what the oil, filters, and change intervals are.
Mad Mackie in CT
Retired aircraft mech!!
I lifted the text below from the Kohler owner manual. It is in Kohlers best interest to push the sale of their own oil.
"We recommend use of Kohler oils for best
performance. Other high-quality detergent
oils (including synthetic) of API (American
Petroleum Institute) service class SJ or higher
are acceptable. Select viscosity based on air
temperature at time of operation as shown in
table below."
The important thing for everyone is to use what they see fit. The good news is that most all modern premium oils are very good. It's tough to go wrong.
I am of the belief that synthetic has a higher useful temperature. Right or wrong, this is why I choose synthetic. Changing two quarts every 50 hours costs about $8 or so more money with synthetic. As expen$ive as small engines are these days, I am perfectly willing to lay out a few extra bucks for what I feel is the best insurance.
Larry
#14
djdicetn
You're right it's all about what gives each individual that warm & fuzzy feeling and in our effort to avoid a "contentious thread"........maybe we just need to address the OP's question with a simple "change your oil of choice every 50 hours":0)
djdicetn
I lifted the text below from the Kohler owner manual. It is in Kohlers best interest to push the sale of their own oil.
"We recommend use of Kohler oils for best
performance. Other high-quality detergent
oils (including synthetic) of API (American
Petroleum Institute) service class SJ or higher
are acceptable. Select viscosity based on air
temperature at time of operation as shown in
table below."
The important thing for everyone is to use what they see fit. The good news is that most all modern premium oils are very good. It's tough to go wrong.
I am of the belief that synthetic has a higher useful temperature. Right or wrong, this is why I choose synthetic. Changing two quarts every 50 hours costs about $8 or so more money with synthetic. As expen$ive as small engines are these days, I am perfectly willing to lay out a few extra bucks for what I feel is the best insurance.
Larry
You're right it's all about what gives each individual that warm & fuzzy feeling and in our effort to avoid a "contentious thread"........maybe we just need to address the OP's question with a simple "change your oil of choice every 50 hours":0)
#15
Ric
I agree with you djdicetn use what you want and I think I as much as said that in my last post when I said believe me that's great if you want to spend that much money to make yourself feel good. The side note in the manual about ( synthetic oil) is what made a believer out of me that and my Kohler single. Any way I have nothing more to add to the subject :thumbsup:
Ric
You're right it's all about what gives each individual that warm & fuzzy feeling and in our effort to avoid a "contentious thread"........maybe we just need to address the OP's question with a simple "change your oil of choice every 50 hours":0)
I agree with you djdicetn use what you want and I think I as much as said that in my last post when I said believe me that's great if you want to spend that much money to make yourself feel good. The side note in the manual about ( synthetic oil) is what made a believer out of me that and my Kohler single. Any way I have nothing more to add to the subject :thumbsup:
#16
M
Mad Mackie
Hi Larry,
I just looked at the Kohler website and you are correct. Kohler has updated their website as it has changed and is easy to navigate and indicates that synthetic engine oils are acceptable. Been about 5 years or more since I had reason to go to the Kohler website.
I soloed in a Cessna 140A in the late 50s. Got my draft notice in 1961 and volunteered for the US Navy Submarine Service and flying was over until I took a tour with the US Army in 1980 and got involved in aviation, stayed until 1994. I was part owner of a 1978 Cessna 172/Penn Yan Conversion, big engine, constant speed prop, droop wingtips, new avionics, nice aircraft!!!:thumbsup:
Mad Mackie in CT
Retired A&P Mech
M
Mad Mackie
I lifted the text below from the Kohler owner manual. It is in Kohlers best interest to push the sale of their own oil.
"We recommend use of Kohler oils for best
performance. Other high-quality detergent
oils (including synthetic) of API (American
Petroleum Institute) service class SJ or higher
are acceptable. Select viscosity based on air
temperature at time of operation as shown in
table below."
The important thing for everyone is to use what they see fit. The good news is that most all modern premium oils are very good. It's tough to go wrong.
I am of the belief that synthetic has a higher useful temperature. Right or wrong, this is why I choose synthetic. Changing two quarts every 50 hours costs about $8 or so more money with synthetic. As expen$ive as small engines are these days, I am perfectly willing to lay out a few extra bucks for what I feel is the best insurance.
Larry
Hi Larry,
I just looked at the Kohler website and you are correct. Kohler has updated their website as it has changed and is easy to navigate and indicates that synthetic engine oils are acceptable. Been about 5 years or more since I had reason to go to the Kohler website.
I soloed in a Cessna 140A in the late 50s. Got my draft notice in 1961 and volunteered for the US Navy Submarine Service and flying was over until I took a tour with the US Army in 1980 and got involved in aviation, stayed until 1994. I was part owner of a 1978 Cessna 172/Penn Yan Conversion, big engine, constant speed prop, droop wingtips, new avionics, nice aircraft!!!:thumbsup:
Mad Mackie in CT
Retired A&P Mech
#17
MBDiagMan
MBDiagMan
I thought that I wanted the metal wing 140A version when I was looking for mine, but as it turned out with synthetic fabric being so long lived, I'm glad I have a rag wing now. She's like me and has been gaining weight ever since 1948, so any weight savings is welcome. Mine has an O200, a custom IR panel and many other modifications that have decreased my useful load, so I'm glad it was never metalized. The 140A is the only metallized wing I would want because they increased the gross weight number with that model.
A few pics:
A few pics:
Attachments
#18
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Hi Larry,
Nice looking bird, very impressive panel!!!
After the conversion of my 172 it was called a Super Hawk. Lycoming 0-360 and constant speed prop increased performance greatly. I was one of four owners and the only A&P so I was able to save the group some maintenance money. The aircraft was originally located in SE Connecticut, but was moved to several western CT airports and then to New Jersey to a flight school and I wasn't happy with that so I sold my share. It eventually ended up with one owner who sold it to a European buyer in 1995 for big bucks!!!
I initially wanted the group to buy a 182, wider in the front seats, but they didn't like the thought of the maintenance costs. However the cost of the conversion and added maintenance costs made a 182 look very good. I have looked around for some pics but I must have misplaced them, it was white with curved blue feature stripes, tinted windows, wheel pants.
Mad Mackie in CT
Nice looking bird, very impressive panel!!!
After the conversion of my 172 it was called a Super Hawk. Lycoming 0-360 and constant speed prop increased performance greatly. I was one of four owners and the only A&P so I was able to save the group some maintenance money. The aircraft was originally located in SE Connecticut, but was moved to several western CT airports and then to New Jersey to a flight school and I wasn't happy with that so I sold my share. It eventually ended up with one owner who sold it to a European buyer in 1995 for big bucks!!!
I initially wanted the group to buy a 182, wider in the front seats, but they didn't like the thought of the maintenance costs. However the cost of the conversion and added maintenance costs made a 182 look very good. I have looked around for some pics but I must have misplaced them, it was white with curved blue feature stripes, tinted windows, wheel pants.
Mad Mackie in CT
#19
BWH
The Briggs & Stratton manual that come with my 1992 Grasshopper 612 does have a synthetic or detergent oil listed in its recomendations. I run the first two oil changes with detergent oil then due to cold starts I switched to synthetic never changing back. At this point I have just short of 2000 hours and have never had it opened up plus it stills pulls the 48 inch deck around without laboring the engine at all nor does it use any oil between changes (20 hour intervals)
BWH
Change your oil and filter every fifty hours or If you are working in a dusty/dirty environment more often. I'd go with what the manual and the manufacturer says to run. Most all the manufacturers call or recommend a detergent oil of SG, SH, SJ or SL for oil type, not a synthetic. I don't think I've ever seen a manual that recommended synthetic oil for a mower. View attachment 17317
The Briggs & Stratton manual that come with my 1992 Grasshopper 612 does have a synthetic or detergent oil listed in its recomendations. I run the first two oil changes with detergent oil then due to cold starts I switched to synthetic never changing back. At this point I have just short of 2000 hours and have never had it opened up plus it stills pulls the 48 inch deck around without laboring the engine at all nor does it use any oil between changes (20 hour intervals)
#20
djdicetn
Wow, you must have a real nice customer base and lawn service income cash flow to afford synthetic oil & filter changes every 20 hours(for most commercial guys that would easily be a weekly expense).
djdicetn
The Briggs & Stratton manual that come with my 1992 Grasshopper 612 does have a synthetic or detergent oil listed in its recomendations. I run the first two oil changes with detergent oil then due to cold starts I switched to synthetic never changing back. At this point I have just short of 2000 hours and have never had it opened up plus it stills pulls the 48 inch deck around without laboring the engine at all nor does it use any oil between changes (20 hour intervals)
Wow, you must have a real nice customer base and lawn service income cash flow to afford synthetic oil & filter changes every 20 hours(for most commercial guys that would easily be a weekly expense).
#21
Carscw
Every 20 hours that would be twice a week.
I don't get why people say I'd it's dusty when mowing change your oil more often
Tell me how the dirt gets in the oil
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
Carscw
The Briggs & Stratton manual that come with my 1992 Grasshopper 612 does have a synthetic or detergent oil listed in its recomendations. I run the first two oil changes with detergent oil then due to cold starts I switched to synthetic never changing back. At this point I have just short of 2000 hours and have never had it opened up plus it stills pulls the 48 inch deck around without laboring the engine at all nor does it use any oil between changes (20 hour intervals)
Every 20 hours that would be twice a week.
I don't get why people say I'd it's dusty when mowing change your oil more often
Tell me how the dirt gets in the oil
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
#22
MBDiagMan
Through the crankcase breather. Some engines are more susceptible to this than others.
Larry
MBDiagMan
Every 20 hours that would be twice a week.
I don't get why people say I'd it's dusty when mowing change your oil more often
Tell me how the dirt gets in the oil
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
Through the crankcase breather. Some engines are more susceptible to this than others.
Larry
#23
djdicetn
Is the "crankcase breather"(I am small engine challenged:0) part of the "Donaldson air filter system" on my Kawaski FX691V commercial engine? I don't have "dusty conditions", but would think an engine with a "commercial grade" filtration system(which always makes an engine cost increase by around $200) would be one of those "less susceptible" engine types. Would that be a good guess?????
djdicetn
Through the crankcase breather. Some engines are more susceptible to this than others.
Larry
Is the "crankcase breather"(I am small engine challenged:0) part of the "Donaldson air filter system" on my Kawaski FX691V commercial engine? I don't have "dusty conditions", but would think an engine with a "commercial grade" filtration system(which always makes an engine cost increase by around $200) would be one of those "less susceptible" engine types. Would that be a good guess?????
#24
BWH
Yea your right I got started when it was new and just never lengthen it out (what can I say it was my baby). It was around once a month oil changes in the summer and I had a number of winters that I had some good hours with a snow blower on it and logged some good hours also. I never mentioned I also have always used a high pressure synthetic greese on the mower also and have had good results it seems like the only things that wore were the non lubercated points.
BWH
Wow, you must have a real nice customer base and lawn service income cash flow to afford synthetic oil & filter changes every 20 hours(for most commercial guys that would easily be a weekly expense).
Yea your right I got started when it was new and just never lengthen it out (what can I say it was my baby). It was around once a month oil changes in the summer and I had a number of winters that I had some good hours with a snow blower on it and logged some good hours also. I never mentioned I also have always used a high pressure synthetic greese on the mower also and have had good results it seems like the only things that wore were the non lubercated points.
#25
Carscw
so if it gets in the oil from the breather tube then it is also going into the carb.
Is this not what the pre filter and filter should stop? This is why you need to keep oil on your pre filter.
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
Carscw
Through the crankcase breather. Some engines are more susceptible to this than others. Larry
so if it gets in the oil from the breather tube then it is also going into the carb.
Is this not what the pre filter and filter should stop? This is why you need to keep oil on your pre filter.
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
#26
MBDiagMan
MBDiagMan
No the crankcase breather is usually not part of the air cleaner system, but when it is, it leads to an area before the air enters the filter. There is usually a small filter somewhere that vents the crankcase vapors, but filters the air to prevent dust from entering the crankcase. On some small engines there's not even a filter, only a tube that leads away from a valve cover or somewhere. The old OHV Tecumseh comes to mind. It had a baffle that led air away from an area under the valve cover where no oil usually slung around, and then the tube led away and down so that any oil or smoke would be away from the engine.
#27
reynoldston
reynoldston
I know a lot of people don't agree but, 100% synthetic Amsoil 15W40 and filter every 100 hours and anymore then that you are throwing money away. If it makes you comfortable just change it ones a day can't hurt anything but your wallet.
#28
djdicetn
Question....do any synthetics come in a "single weight"(i.e. SAE30)???? Every mower's owner manual and every small engine manual I've ever read stated that the use of multi-viscosity oil leads to oil consumptuion when used at temeratures > 32 degrees(and to check & top up the oil more frequently when using them). Why is that??????
P.S.
The part of that which "stuck in my mind" was that they do not say MAY lead to oil consumption, indicating it's a given. I have read users post how many years they have used 10w40 and never experienced that, but maybe they were "lucky".
djdicetn
I know a lot of people don't agree but, 100% synthetic Amsoil 15W40 and filter every 100 hours and anymore then that you are throwing money away. If it makes you comfortable just change it ones a day can't hurt anything but your wallet.
Question....do any synthetics come in a "single weight"(i.e. SAE30)???? Every mower's owner manual and every small engine manual I've ever read stated that the use of multi-viscosity oil leads to oil consumptuion when used at temeratures > 32 degrees(and to check & top up the oil more frequently when using them). Why is that??????
P.S.
The part of that which "stuck in my mind" was that they do not say MAY lead to oil consumption, indicating it's a given. I have read users post how many years they have used 10w40 and never experienced that, but maybe they were "lucky".
#29
reynoldston
Yes Amsoil diesel oil has a SAE 30, but I have better luck with the 15W40 with engines with a lot of hours. Yes Amsoil oil cost more to buy but seeing you can run it longer in the engine it end up costing the same. No nothing wrong using a cheaper oil other then the labor of buying it and changing it more often. To each his own on this being what makes you feel the best.
reynoldston
Question....do any synthetics come in a "single weight"(i.e. SAE30)???? Every mower's owner manual and every small engine manual I've ever read stated that the use of multi-viscosity oil leads to oil consumptuion when used at temeratures > 32 degrees(and to check & top up the oil more frequently when using them). Why is that??????
P.S.
The part of that which "stuck in my mind" was that they do not say MAY lead to oil consumption, indicating it's a given. I have read users post how many years they have used 10w40 and never experienced that, but maybe they were "lucky".
Yes Amsoil diesel oil has a SAE 30, but I have better luck with the 15W40 with engines with a lot of hours. Yes Amsoil oil cost more to buy but seeing you can run it longer in the engine it end up costing the same. No nothing wrong using a cheaper oil other then the labor of buying it and changing it more often. To each his own on this being what makes you feel the best.
#30
BWH
1920 hours divided by 21 years = 91.428 hours per year divided by 5 months (April 1/2, May, June, July, August, September 1/2 = 18.28 hours per month. Then add in 8 to ten years of winter snow blowing. This is just easy averaging but I do have a compleate log of all service and maintenance that is very accurate.
The contaminents in the oil (dirt) is more related to the internal combustion engine and its carburation ineffency than actual dirt contamination. Altho the air breather systems of the early 1990's left a lot to be desired by todays standard.
I know it was mentioned that it gets costly buying synthetic oil at $8.00+ but in 1992 I was buying it for under $3.00.
I guess in the end it goes back to the old oil commercial that went like this " PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER"
No right no wrong just personal preferences.
BWH
Every 20 hours that would be twice a week.
I don't get why people say I'd it's dusty when mowing change your oil more often
Tell me how the dirt gets in the oil
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
1920 hours divided by 21 years = 91.428 hours per year divided by 5 months (April 1/2, May, June, July, August, September 1/2 = 18.28 hours per month. Then add in 8 to ten years of winter snow blowing. This is just easy averaging but I do have a compleate log of all service and maintenance that is very accurate.
The contaminents in the oil (dirt) is more related to the internal combustion engine and its carburation ineffency than actual dirt contamination. Altho the air breather systems of the early 1990's left a lot to be desired by todays standard.
I know it was mentioned that it gets costly buying synthetic oil at $8.00+ but in 1992 I was buying it for under $3.00.
I guess in the end it goes back to the old oil commercial that went like this " PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER"
No right no wrong just personal preferences.
#31
djdicetn
When I met my wife in 1981 she had a 1979 Mustang Cobra that had NEVER had an oil change!!! Needless to say by 1985, after we married, we were trading that car in:0)
djdicetn
1920 hours divided by 21 years = 91.428 hours per year divided by 5 months (April 1/2, May, June, July, August, September 1/2 = 18.28 hours per month. Then add in 8 to ten years of winter snow blowing. This is just easy averaging but I do have a compleate log of all service and maintenance that is very accurate.
The contaminents in the oil (dirt) is more related to the internal combustion engine and its carburation ineffency than actual dirt contamination. Altho the air breather systems of the early 1990's left a lot to be desired by todays standard.
I know it was mentioned that it gets costly buying synthetic oil at $8.00+ but in 1992 I was buying it for under $3.00.
I guess in the end it goes back to the old oil commercial that went like this " PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER"
No right no wrong just personal preferences.
When I met my wife in 1981 she had a 1979 Mustang Cobra that had NEVER had an oil change!!! Needless to say by 1985, after we married, we were trading that car in:0)
#32
reynoldston
They sure have come a long ways since 1979 in cars and oil. It is getting very common to see cars with over 200,000 miles and still going strong and with modern commercial trucks over a million miles. When I first started driving a car you changed the oil every 1000 miles and now I change mine at 20,000 miles.
reynoldston
When I met my wife in 1981 she had a 1979 Mustang Cobra that had NEVER had an oil change!!! Needless to say by 1985, after we married, we were trading that car in:0)
They sure have come a long ways since 1979 in cars and oil. It is getting very common to see cars with over 200,000 miles and still going strong and with modern commercial trucks over a million miles. When I first started driving a car you changed the oil every 1000 miles and now I change mine at 20,000 miles.
#33
P
Packard8
I've been on the fence re syn vs. dino until I recently tuned up a Briggs & Stratton 12.5 HP I/C. I set the idle and governor to 700 RPM idle and 3500 RPM WOT. I then drained the fairly fresh conventional 30 wt and filled with Mobil 1 10W30. Started it up and the tach read 900 RPM idle and 3900 RPM WOT with no adjustment to the carb or governor. To me that indicates less internal friction which should result in longer life and improved fuel efficiency.
Whether the difference in cost is justified is another story.
P
Packard8
I would agree with rivets, but if it is air cooled, I would use synthetic. It deals much better with the higher oil temperature seen in an air cooled engine.
Larry
I've been on the fence re syn vs. dino until I recently tuned up a Briggs & Stratton 12.5 HP I/C. I set the idle and governor to 700 RPM idle and 3500 RPM WOT. I then drained the fairly fresh conventional 30 wt and filled with Mobil 1 10W30. Started it up and the tach read 900 RPM idle and 3900 RPM WOT with no adjustment to the carb or governor. To me that indicates less internal friction which should result in longer life and improved fuel efficiency.
Whether the difference in cost is justified is another story.
#34
PVHIII
Very interesting post...I run Royal Purple in EVERY engine I own
PVHIII
I've been on the fence re syn vs. dino until I recently tuned up a Briggs & Stratton 12.5 HP I/C. I set the idle and governor to 700 RPM idle and 3500 RPM WOT. I then drained the fairly fresh conventional 30 wt and filled with Mobil 1 10W30. Started it up and the tach read 900 RPM idle and 3900 RPM WOT with no adjustment to the carb or governor. To me that indicates less internal friction which should result in longer life and improved fuel efficiency.
Whether the difference in cost is justified is another story.
Very interesting post...I run Royal Purple in EVERY engine I own