Honda Mower Seized Piston

Scrubcadet10 said:
I would take a flat file and smooth out any raised area's on that taper for the flywheel... as well as clean up the edges of the key slot, don't go crazy, ;) doesn't appear to be any damage to the keyway so it should be okay as long as you get the nut tight enough going back on.
If i remember right the actual torque spec for the flywheel nut is 38 ft lbs.
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Thanks. I've managed to get this far without spending much on tools I'm going to use once, but I think I need to invest in a torque wrench. That comes in handy from time to time.

After I get the crankshaft in good shape I need to take stock of how to rebuild this thing. I need to do some major cleaning of everything, for sure, and need to source new parts - piston assembly, assorted gaskets, etc. I guess I need to take apart and inspect the valves to be sure nothing is damaged there, too.

Is there a recommended place to get parts online, for price and quality, OEM?
 
My go to's are
Parts Tree (Austin, Texas)
Jacks Small engines (Maryland)
Pro Parts Direct.net (New Hampshire)
Also, you might look into your local auto part store rent a tool, You pay the price of the tool as a deposit, you use the tool, and return it, and get your money back. they should loan out a good torque wrench.
I don't think you'll need any gaskets, at least on most GCV'S the Crankcase and valve cover are sealed with RTV silicone ( i use permatex ultra black) i would advise replacing the PTO (blade side) oil seal.

That's one that bugs me about the design of these GCV's... any work that involves removing the valve etc, you have to tear down the engine since there is no Cylinder head bolted on to it, it's just made onto the engine block.
 
I'm going to remove the valves today and start looking at cleaning things up. I noticed that the cylinder head is kind of black. Should that be scrubbed clean and if so how without damaging it?
 
So I removed the valves today and spend a few hours on youtube looking at the wrong way to clean the valves... everything from bench grinders to chemicals. One of the valves is black and I thought I'd give it a gentle cleaning with the red scotch brite and WD40. That seems to be pretty safe if you don't overdo it. I also have a Dremel with a wire wheel. Too much? I'll probably try the scotch brite pad with a drill to gently clean the cylinder head, which is very caked up with carbon. I would be careful not to mess with the seats too much, hoping to avoid having to lap them.

Also, will the valves need lapping or is that overkill for a lawn mower engine? I want to do the job right but at the same job anything I buy to do this will probably only be used once for this engine, unless I get into the small engine repair biz.
 
Quick question: I was having a conversation today with a Toyota maintenance instructor about my little engine rebuild. We got onto the subject of how the rod bearing on the crankshaft is lubricated in this engine. As there are no holes or grooves in the journal I wasn't sure. I haven't purchase a replacement rod yet. Are there grooves or holes on the connecting rod part that bolts to the journal so the splash oil can find its way in? Something else?
 
So this is very annoying because something that should be very simple appears not to be. I cannot find my Honda mower model anywhere on parts supply stores. I know I'm not the 1st to have this problem. I have a model HRX2174HZA. I think the 4 might not be important but I can't find any models with the Z either. Anybody know what's going on?
 
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