It won’t right if you put it on backwards. Maybe swap sides... but really I’d just replace it since the one on the right looks like it is cracked.
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Honda HRB216TDA can barely pull itself forward
- Thread starter soundchasm
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Export threadIt won’t right if you put it on backwards. Maybe swap sides... but really I’d just replace it since the one on the right looks like it is cracked.
soundchasm
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The one on the right isn't cracked that I can see. It's just completely worn compared to the other one.
I cleaned the axle and the bushings turn freely. Fought the circlips and only had one really close call, so to speak.
But as I'm putting the second rear wheel on, something has gone wonky. The deck may be "sprung" just slightly enough that I can't put on the first circlip on the outside after the round plastic wheel guard. That means no washer, circlip, gear/key, washer, circlip.
I actually had to get a C-clamp to squeeze things a little to get the washer and circlip attached on the transmission side. It's be nice to get it back together and see if it works. I can always replace the gear as soon as I get a chance to get one.
Thanks and will keep you posted.
I cleaned the axle and the bushings turn freely. Fought the circlips and only had one really close call, so to speak.
But as I'm putting the second rear wheel on, something has gone wonky. The deck may be "sprung" just slightly enough that I can't put on the first circlip on the outside after the round plastic wheel guard. That means no washer, circlip, gear/key, washer, circlip.
I actually had to get a C-clamp to squeeze things a little to get the washer and circlip attached on the transmission side. It's be nice to get it back together and see if it works. I can always replace the gear as soon as I get a chance to get one.
Thanks and will keep you posted.
soundchasm
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"No problem, I’d absolutely leave the transmission in place unless I had to remove it. Obviously be sure to check belt condition and see how the trans turns without the bushings. Hopefully smooth. You’re right, most of the videos gloss over some steps that are required to have the whole make sense. Just go slow, take pictures, notes and / or look at the parts diagrams and you should be ok. It’s annoying, but gets easier the more times you do it. Sadly if you plan on keeping it for a while this probably won’t be the only time you have to do it. "
What I did previously was replace the belt and drive pulley. That worked really well for a cycle or two. Then I adjusted the drive cable, and I think it's pretty doggone tight. Concerning the free axle and transmission, I can't get a sense of if its hosed or not. I wouldn't call its rotation "free-wheeling" or anything like that. I've got no baseline other than today to compare to.
I think I screwed up somewhere in reassembly. It's also possible that the axle shrunk considerably. I'll give it a fresh look on Monday.
Unfortunately, though I didn't test during disassembly, I didn't see obvious corrosion. The axle looked pretty good. But I will confirm that the bushings certainly spin freely now.
We'll see where this all leads after reassembly.
Thanks,
Greg
What I did previously was replace the belt and drive pulley. That worked really well for a cycle or two. Then I adjusted the drive cable, and I think it's pretty doggone tight. Concerning the free axle and transmission, I can't get a sense of if its hosed or not. I wouldn't call its rotation "free-wheeling" or anything like that. I've got no baseline other than today to compare to.
I think I screwed up somewhere in reassembly. It's also possible that the axle shrunk considerably. I'll give it a fresh look on Monday.
Unfortunately, though I didn't test during disassembly, I didn't see obvious corrosion. The axle looked pretty good. But I will confirm that the bushings certainly spin freely now.
We'll see where this all leads after reassembly.
Thanks,
Greg
soundchasm
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The transmission has enough movement to allow everything to go back together. Grab it and see if it will slide enough to allow everything to go back together
Well, as you might have expected, Honda engineering doesn't shrink and swell to a great extent. I had a washer in the wrong place. Got that straight and it wasn't too bad.
That dang spring for the pulley is Satan's own invention, though. What I finally did (and this might help somebody [or it's already well-known]), was roll the belt off the drive pulley to the blade side to make some slack. Then it was close. Then my eyeballs told my giant alien brain that the drive shaft was narrower on the other side. I rolled the belt to that side and then attaching the spring was duck soup. But why duck soup? Is it easy because they're already in water? I don't get it.
It rolls backwards freely now. I haven't started it, but here's why.
1. It's late and the wife already thinks I'm crazy
2. I rolled the mower onto the air filter side not knowing that oil will come out. It came out.
I've got a new air filter and I'm getting ready to refill the oil. Should I do anything to mitigate that before I refill and start the engine?
Thanks,
Greg
Well, as you might have expected, Honda engineering doesn't shrink and swell to a great extent. I had a washer in the wrong place. Got that straight and it wasn't too bad.
That dang spring for the pulley is Satan's own invention, though. What I finally did (and this might help somebody [or it's already well-known]), was roll the belt off the drive pulley to the blade side to make some slack. Then it was close. Then my eyeballs told my giant alien brain that the drive shaft was narrower on the other side. I rolled the belt to that side and then attaching the spring was duck soup. But why duck soup? Is it easy because they're already in water? I don't get it.
It rolls backwards freely now. I haven't started it, but here's why.
1. It's late and the wife already thinks I'm crazy
2. I rolled the mower onto the air filter side not knowing that oil will come out. It came out.
I've got a new air filter and I'm getting ready to refill the oil. Should I do anything to mitigate that before I refill and start the engine?
Thanks,
Greg
Sounds great! I'd just get the new filter in and start it... also make sure your level is OK and if you're paranoid you can pull the spark plug out first and pull it through to make sure none got in the cylinder, but I REALLY doubt that. Hopefully this leaves you in good shape. Being able to pull it backwards indicates to me you made some good progress - hopefully it's enough to make the forward work better!
Thanks for the update and can't wait to hear how it works out!
soundchasm
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Well rats. Filled the oil, cleaned the air filter housing and replaced filter. Started mower with a shot of starter fluid.
Waited 4-5 minutes for the oil to burn off. Engine stabilized and exhaust clear. Squeezed the drive handle and nothing. Began adjusting the cable and put it at the shortest adjustment (I think). That's with the shortest amount of threads on the operator side, and the most threads pointing towards the mower.
Lifting the rear end and the wheels do spin in the forward direction, but set the mower down and it's not enough to do anything.
Rolling backwards is effortless.
I'm not sure what the next move is. Any thoughts?
I checked carefully and I don't have any parts left over like I do on most mechanical repairs. ;->
Thanks,
Greg
Waited 4-5 minutes for the oil to burn off. Engine stabilized and exhaust clear. Squeezed the drive handle and nothing. Began adjusting the cable and put it at the shortest adjustment (I think). That's with the shortest amount of threads on the operator side, and the most threads pointing towards the mower.
Lifting the rear end and the wheels do spin in the forward direction, but set the mower down and it's not enough to do anything.
Rolling backwards is effortless.
I'm not sure what the next move is. Any thoughts?
I checked carefully and I don't have any parts left over like I do on most mechanical repairs. ;->
Thanks,
Greg
Last edited:
Well rats. Filled the oil, cleaned the air filter housing and replaced filter. Started mower with a shot of starter fluid.
Waited 4-5 minutes for the oil to burn off. Engine stabilized and exhaust clear. Squeezed the drive handle and nothing. Began adjusting the cable and put it at the shortest adjustment (I think). That's with the shortest amount of threads on the operator side, and the most threads pointing towards the mower.
Lifting the rear end and the wheels do spin in the forward direction, but set the mower down and it's not enough to do anything.
Rolling backwards is effortless.
I'm not sure what the next move is. Any thoughts?
I checked carefully and I don't have any parts left over like I do on most mechanical repairs. ;->
Thanks,
Greg
Ugh! Was hoping for good news. Did you change or move the pinion gears at all? Does it click / ratchet when you push it forward? It should NOT click going backwards and pushing forward should be easier than pulling backwards in all cases. I could see your problem occurring if the gears were backwards. (Ratcheting / clicking when pulling back)
soundchasm
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Ugh! Was hoping for good news. Did you change or move the pinion gears at all? Does it click / ratchet when you push it forward? It should NOT click going backwards and pushing forward should be easier than pulling backwards in all cases. I could see your problem occurring if the gears were backwards. (Ratcheting / clicking when pulling back)
Well, this is the process of elimination, right? So a poopy result has a certain poetic justice to it. ;-)
Backwards is effortless. Frontwards I get the click. During reassembly, with the mower on its side, if I spun the blade the rear wheels would move.
I have not the slightest idea of what's in that transmission or how one works. Is it possible that there are no teeth left on the gears in there and it is truly worn out?
The spring always goes on with a bit of a bang, but I didn't see any obvious carnage as a result.
Unless I hear otherwise, I'll order a new transmission tonight or tomorrow. I don't think it could "only" be a stretched cable, but I'll order a new cable to go with the transmission.
I appreciate all the help. Now if a new tranny doesn't fix it, then I don't know what I'm going to do (yes I do - I'll need a new mower!). Thanks!
Well, this is the process of elimination, right? So a poopy result has a certain poetic justice to it. ;-)
Backwards is effortless. Frontwards I get the click. During reassembly, with the mower on its side, if I spun the blade the rear wheels would move.
I have not the slightest idea of what's in that transmission or how one works. Is it possible that there are no teeth left on the gears in there and it is truly worn out?
The spring always goes on with a bit of a bang, but I didn't see any obvious carnage as a result.
Unless I hear otherwise, I'll order a new transmission tonight or tomorrow. I don't think it could "only" be a stretched cable, but I'll order a new cable to go with the transmission.
I appreciate all the help. Now if a new tranny doesn't fix it, then I don't know what I'm going to do (yes I do - I'll need a new mower!). Thanks!
I looked at pictures of the transmission... it looks pretty simple inside. I think I would try turning the trans pulley while holding the wheel or drive shaft to see if you can get it to slip. If one gear slips, try another, I think it’s got 3 gear sets if the pictures I saw were correct. Considering how expensive they are I wouldn’t buy a new one until you KNOW yours is bad. From what I also read, cable problems are very common. Maybe grab the end of the cable with vice grips to see if pulling it “more” than it’s adjustment range gets it to move. Also maybe carefully open the trans and look around. Stripped gears should be pretty obvious. I think there is a shift fork / pins that engage each gear set.