Honda GXV140 - something loose in piston assembly

[bwdbrn1]

You wont' need to worry about pulling the flywheel off from the PTO end. If that happens, Honda does sell a very complete line of replacement engines.:biggrin: When the blade holder let's loose, it will happen in one of two ways. It will either come off slowly, or suddenly pop off. Just to let you know in case it's the second.

We haven't discussed this yet, and in case you haven't done so, do drain all gasoline and oil out of the engine before you start moving it around at the angles you'll need to to get the blade holder off. I'd also recommend you put the bolt back into the PTO shaft, loosened a bit, for the gear puller to push against, and not just the open end of the PTO.

Robert, would you recommend putting a gear puller on the blade holder, applying some pressure on it, then striking the end of the gear puller shaft with a hammer to get the holder off? Not like you're going to ring the bell at one of those carnival he man sledge hammer things, but similar to the method recommended for getting an aluminum flywheel off of the GCV160.

 

[robert@honda]

... putting a gear puller on the blade holder, applying some pressure on it, then striking the end of the gear puller shaft with a hammer to get the holder off?

I can tell you Honda shop manual procedures specifically say NOT to whack stuff like flywheel nuts, crankshaft bolts, etc. to loosen 'em, even if it is common practice with most service shops. That's all I can say about that. :wink:

 

[bwdbrn1]

Sorry, striking was too harsh a word.:tongue: The word used was "tap".:thumbsup:

 

[robert@honda]

Sorry, striking was too harsh a word.:tongue: The word used was "tap".:thumbsup:

Okay, as long as you use a Metric hammer :laughing:

 

[chance123]

Anytime I have to use a hammer on the end of a crankshaft, I will always use a sacrificial nut or bolt. I actually rarely use a puller. One good wack with a hammer usually breaks the FW from the taper. Briggs and Tec actually have a tool to put over the crankshaft end that you hit with a hammer. Briggs tool slips over the starter clutch shank and the Tec, screws on the crank threads. On other pulling projects, I will use an air hammer, again,, on a sacrificial nut or bolt.

I actually think that a puller puts more strain on the parts because it is a gradual process. Using a hammer "shocks" the FW off with little effort

 

[bwdbrn1]

Okay, as long as you use a Metric hammer :laughing:

We'll save the whacking for the HRX decks.:wink:

 

[CM-NC]

Unless rusted/seized onto the crankshaft, a bit of penetrating oil, overnight soaking and maybe a little heat ought to loosen it enough to pull off without excessive force. The blade holder can be bent/damaged if you get too aggressive with it.

I have a feeling this is rusted on the crankshaft, and after last night's soaking, no success today. Fortunately, I can't get too aggressive on it, the angle and proximity to the engine precludes getting anything behind the blade holder that can actually produce force.

Forgive this possible silly question: The bolt on the end of the blade holder, what is its purpose? I would imagine that, when I look into the hole, I am looking at the crankshaft and the bolt retains the blade holder.

The reason I ask is because, if this is the case, there is nothing on the blade holder that I could attach a sacrificial nut and bolt to. For the record, the retaining bolt is off, but the holder is seized/rusted on to the shaft.

Another: What is a PTO?

You guys are fantastic,
-CM

 

[robert@honda]

I have a feeling this is rusted on the crankshaft

Sure sounds like it; keep soaking, and maybe some heat? Be sure the mower is FULLY drained of all fuel and oil!

Forgive this possible silly question: The bolt on the end of the blade holder, what is its purpose? I would imagine that, when I look into the hole, I am looking at the crankshaft and the bolt retains the blade holder.

Correct. I've never personally had one of these apart, but looking at the shop manual and parts catalog, I think you are spot-on with the function of the bolt.

Another: What is a PTO?

Power Take-Off; an industry term to describe the tip of the engine's crankshaft where power is "taken off" and used to turn some device (mower blades, tiller transmission, generator head, etc.)

 

[chance123]

Forgive this possible silly question: The bolt on the end of the blade holder, what is its purpose? I would imagine that, when I look into the hole, I am looking at the crankshaft and the bolt retains the blade holder. -CM

and the blade too

The reason I ask is because, if this is the case, there is nothing on the blade holder that I could attach a sacrificial nut and bolt to.-CM

You screw a sacrificial bolt through the blade retainer and into the crankshaft itself. (You use a "sacrificial" bolt so you don't ruin the original heat treated bolt.) You also use this bolt when using a puller. You might not have an air compressor and air hammer, but if you do, just pulling by hand the hub, and at the same time using the air hammer on the sacrificial bolt, they usually come off quite easy. When re assembling, always use anti seize compound to avoid this problem in the future.
In effect, what you are doing is "pushing" the crank shaft out of the hub (with the hammer or puller screw) while you are pulling (by hand or the jaws of the puller) the hub off of the crank shaft

edit:
I just thought of something. Does your machine have a BBC? (blade brake clutch)

 

[bwdbrn1]

CM-NC, here's what the Power Take Off end of the GXV140 looks like, without the blade holder, of course, and the bolt you have should look something like this one. It screws into the end of the PTO. (Pictured below)

If the blade holder you have does look like part #7 in that parts diagram, if I remember right, it is a blade holder/belt pulley all in one package. I think the single bolt you are talking about is the one that holds it to the PTO. The cutting blade(s) were held to that blade holder by two bolts. If you have access to a harmonic gear puller, you might be able to use the two holes for the blade bolts to hold the "wings" of the puller, and use another bolt for the center of the puller to push against to protect the end of the PTO and threads inside it.

Sorry I don't have that blade holder that was on mine any more to show you how to set it up. Just keep putting the penetrating oil on it and letting it soak. It may take a few days, actually.