help with 54" husky steering gear?

[Fish]

Let's try this...

 

[Fish]

At least look at this pic....

 

[Fish]

At least look at this pic....

Or not......

 

[bertsmobile1]

this is why i need a manual lol.............but anyway fish i`am poitive of this,the bolts that hold on the big gear are under the gas tank and behind the dash,the seat is no where near the bolts or gear in question,i can see the bolts from underneath
the mower but cannot see the tops of ethier bolt,and dont laugh and im not saying i have to since i have no manual,but it almost looks like i have to remove engine and pto pully just to get to top of bolts and remember i cant see them just assuming
so untill i can get a repair manual or someone that has taken off the gear on this model to tell me how im stuck lol,im not pulling motor to do this.keep up the info and we`ll get this i hope? thnx bb

There is not much in the way of actual repair manuals for MTD mowers.
Not having done that particular model I should have done a full frame check before writing my post.
Checking the frame page https://polr.partstree.com/v1/iplimage.php?ir=YToyOntzOjk6ImltYWdlUGF0aCI7czoyNDoiYlhSa0x6YzJPVEF5TXpRelhEQXdNRFE9IjtzOjc6Im9wdGlvbnMiO2E6MTp7czo1OiJ3aWR0aCI7aToxMDAwO319
It is apparent that the fasteners you need to access are bolted to a plate that is under the main frame not above it as earlier thought so there is no access from the top of the mower. Sorry about the misdirection.
These are an even bigger PIA to access

By now you should have the deck off, is not do it.
the easy, but complicated way is to unbolt the plate ( which does not seem to have a part number ) from the side rails of the frame there are 4 or 6 self tappers holding it in place.
On some it will drop down a few inches if the gear on the bottom of the steering shaft ( # 11 ) is removed first.
To get it down further you usually have to remove all of the control pedals and you want to avoid that is possible.
This will drop it about 2" at the front so you can get at the heads.
Downside is the target fasteners are now not supported so you need a rattle gun on one end and a ring on the other.

The other way is to slip your fingers between this plate & the frame.
You can feel the fastener heads but will need a 0 offset ring spanner to get on to them.
The bannana or cresent shaped ones work best because there is not much room.
Don't even think about using an open ender. although I have resorted to using a flare nut wrench on one mower because the spanner was too thick to pass over the top of the nut & under the frame.
The bolt ( # 1 ) is captive if the plate is not dropped so it can not fall out.
To replace the nut, which is close to the open end you can jamb it into the end of the spanner using tissue paper or cling film.
I have done some with needle nosed lock jaw wrenches to get the nut started.

With a lot of these type of jobs I stand the mower up vertical because it is easier working sitting down in front than laying down underneath.
If you go that way, put cling wrap over the fuel tank outlet the do the cap up tight ( or drain the tank ) & remove the battery to prevent messy spills.

 

[Fish]

There is not much in the way of actual repair manuals for MTD mowers.
Not having done that particular model I should have done a full frame check before writing my post.
Checking the frame page https://polr.partstree.com/v1/iplimage.php?ir=YToyOntzOjk6ImltYWdlUGF0aCI7czoyNDoiYlhSa0x6YzJPVEF5TXpRelhEQXdNRFE9IjtzOjc6Im9wdGlvbnMiO2E6MTp7czo1OiJ3aWR0aCI7aToxMDAwO319
It is apparent that the fasteners you need to access are bolted to a plate that is under the main frame not above it as earlier thought so there is no access from the top of the mower. Sorry about the misdirection.
These are an even bigger PIA to access

By now you should have the deck off, is not do it.
the easy, but complicated way is to unbolt the plate ( which does not seem to have a part number ) from the side rails of the frame there are 4 or 6 self tappers holding it in place.
On some it will drop down a few inches if the gear on the bottom of the steering shaft ( # 11 ) is removed first.
To get it down further you usually have to remove all of the control pedals and you want to avoid that is possible.
This will drop it about 2" at the front so you can get at the heads.
Downside is the target fasteners are now not supported so you need a rattle gun on one end and a ring on the other.

The other way is to slip your fingers between this plate & the frame.
You can feel the fastener heads but will need a 0 offset ring spanner to get on to them.
The bannana or cresent shaped ones work best because there is not much room.
Don't even think about using an open ender. although I have resorted to using a flare nut wrench on one mower because the spanner was too thick to pass over the top of the nut & under the frame.
The bolt ( # 1 ) is captive if the plate is not dropped so it can not fall out.
To replace the nut, which is close to the open end you can jamb it into the end of the spanner using tissue paper or cling film.
I have done some with needle nosed lock jaw wrenches to get the nut started.

With a lot of these type of jobs I stand the mower up vertical because it is easier working sitting down in front than laying down underneath.
If you go that way, put cling wrap over the fuel tank outlet the do the cap up tight ( or drain the tank ) & remove the battery to prevent messy spills.

LOl...

Or you could just remove the seat and the bolts off of the rear fender, after removing the seat!!!!

 

[Fish]

Or not.....

 

[Fish]

Or not.....

Or you could dick around as described, but the best way is to lift the wheel wells up so you can easily put a wrench on those bolts/nuts....

 

[Fish]

But hey, I have wasted enough time already....

I am way off base.....

Ignore what I have said...

 

[bertsmobile1]

LOl...

Or you could just remove the seat and the bolts off of the rear fender, after removing the seat!!!!

Not trying to be argumentative or difficult but.
Have a good look.
You are still on top of the frame and the sub assembly is under the frame.
Even using the big hole for the tranny, you will still be on the wrong side of the steering stem to access the offending fasteners and all of the control rods will be in your way as will be the tranny & the tranny belt.
Never done that particular model but usually to remove the rear fender you have to loosen or remove the dash turret first because the fender goes under it and is captive by it.

 

[beachbumtroy]

ok bertmobile, it seems like ur on spot with what i have to do ill keep looking at it, removing the pedals is not going to happen lol so i`am going to try and lower the plate that might get me into the bolt also that the pto is partially covering,i`ll let
all of u kno how it goes cant start on it till thurs or friday but wwill keep u guys updated thnx and to fish and all others really thnx for ur input as well really,who knows fish might still have to take off seat and fenders and motor lol will keep
u informed thnx and dont stop now keep the ideas coming.