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help with 54" husky steering gear?

#1

B

beachbumtroy

hey guys i just got a husky 54" tractor cheap because it had no steering,well it turns out the big steering gear(not little one on end of steering wheel shaft) is wore out, there are 2 nuts hold on the drag linx then there are 2 more bolts that hold the gear on,well i cant see anyway to get to the top of the bolts to hold with a wrench to take off? and 1 of the bolts the head is partially under the pto and dont see how to get that off ethier. and ive searched and searched to no avail for a free pdf repair manual can u help me find one or explain to me in GREAT DETAIL :) how to get that gear off? i thank u in advance for any and all help in this matter below is all the info of the mower thnx very much bb
husky supreme SGT5400 garden tractor
body model#14AP805K730
ser#10186H30016

eng spec#PS-SV720-0016
eng ser#3609713543 kohler 23 hp/725cc twin cylinder
54 inch triple blade auto trans hi/low range


#2

Fish

Fish

Here is a link to a parts list pic so we can discuss it better.


https://www.partstree.com/parts/mtd...-garden-tractor-2006-tractor-supply/steering/


#3

Fish

Fish

If it is like the ones that I have cussed over, you need to remove the seat and the bolts on the panel/wheelwells, to be able to get a wrench on the top bolt/nuts.
Otherwise you will waste a few hours of cussing, and trying things, untill you finally decide to do just that.


#4

B

beachbumtroy

it is part#10 in the diagram 10

MTD 717-1550F (replaces 717-1550E)

Gear, Steering, 11/90 Ratio and fish, i dont believe u have to remove seat because i believe everything is under or by steering column under gas tank but it is #10 in the parts list let me kno thnx bb


#5

Fish

Fish

it is part#10 in the diagram 10

MTD 717-1550F (replaces 717-1550E)

Gear, Steering, 11/90 Ratio and fish, i dont believe u have to remove seat because i believe everything is under or by steering column under gas tank but it is #10 in the parts list let me kno thnx bb

If your problem is getting a wrench on the top locknuts to remove the assembly, then yes, you will have to raise the fender/wheel well assy. and have to remove the seat to do this.


#6

B

bertsmobile1

If you are talking about nut part # 7 or the bolt part # 1 shown in the diagram that Gonzo posted, then it is accessed from under the fuel tank.
Removing the fuel tank will make it accessible using a 3/8 drive .
Being able to hang from the ceiling will also make it easier :laughing:
You will also need to replace the pivot bushes part 17 ( 2 of them ).
IT is very rare for the fan gear to be so worn that it requires replacement and the steering gear, part # 11 not to be worn excessively.
And the bush , part # 20.
I would replace 20 steering bushes for every steering gear.
And steering gears are always replaced as a set.

Due to the geometry of the steering system turning it one way pulls the gears together and the other way pushes them apart.
The usual complaint I get is "it turns left but won't turn right " or visa versa


#7

Fish

Fish

it is part#10 in the diagram 10

MTD 717-1550F (replaces 717-1550E)

Gear, Steering, 11/90 Ratio and fish, i dont believe u have to remove seat because i believe everything is under or by steering column under gas tank but it is #10 in the parts list let me kno thnx bb

Be sure to get back to us...


#8

B

beachbumtroy

this is why i need a manual lol.............but anyway fish i`am poitive of this,the bolts that hold on the big gear are under the gas tank and behind the dash,the seat is no where near the bolts or gear in question,i can see the bolts from underneath
the mower but cannot see the tops of ethier bolt,and dont laugh and im not saying i have to since i have no manual,but it almost looks like i have to remove engine and pto pully just to get to top of bolts and remember i cant see them just assuming
:( so untill i can get a repair manual or someone that has taken off the gear on this model to tell me how im stuck lol,im not pulling motor to do this.keep up the info and we`ll get this i hope? thnx bb


#9

Fish

Fish

this is why i need a manual lol.............but anyway fish i`am poitive of this,the bolts that hold on the big gear are under the gas tank and behind the dash,the seat is no where near the bolts or gear in question,i can see the bolts from underneath
the mower but cannot see the tops of ethier bolt,and dont laugh and im not saying i have to since i have no manual,but it almost looks like i have to remove engine and pto pully just to get to top of bolts and remember i cant see them just assuming
:( so untill i can get a repair manual or someone that has taken off the gear on this model to tell me how im stuck lol,im not pulling motor to do this.keep up the info and we`ll get this i hope? thnx bb

If it is like the models I am familiar with, the rear wheel wells go from the seat and also include the footrests...


#10

Fish

Fish

If it is like the models I am familiar with, the rear wheel wells go from the seat and also include the footrests...

It is a damn shame I cannot put up a pic/ipl of your mower!!


#11

Fish

Fish

mtd.jpg

Let's try this...


#12

Fish

Fish

At least look at this pic....


#13

Fish

Fish

At least look at this pic....

Or not......


#14

B

bertsmobile1

this is why i need a manual lol.............but anyway fish i`am poitive of this,the bolts that hold on the big gear are under the gas tank and behind the dash,the seat is no where near the bolts or gear in question,i can see the bolts from underneath
the mower but cannot see the tops of ethier bolt,and dont laugh and im not saying i have to since i have no manual,but it almost looks like i have to remove engine and pto pully just to get to top of bolts and remember i cant see them just assuming
:( so untill i can get a repair manual or someone that has taken off the gear on this model to tell me how im stuck lol,im not pulling motor to do this.keep up the info and we`ll get this i hope? thnx bb

There is not much in the way of actual repair manuals for MTD mowers.
Not having done that particular model I should have done a full frame check before writing my post.
Checking the frame page https://polr.partstree.com/v1/iplimage.php?ir=YToyOntzOjk6ImltYWdlUGF0aCI7czoyNDoiYlhSa0x6YzJPVEF5TXpRelhEQXdNRFE9IjtzOjc6Im9wdGlvbnMiO2E6MTp7czo1OiJ3aWR0aCI7aToxMDAwO319
It is apparent that the fasteners you need to access are bolted to a plate that is under the main frame not above it as earlier thought so there is no access from the top of the mower. Sorry about the misdirection.
These are an even bigger PIA to access

By now you should have the deck off, is not do it.
the easy, but complicated way is to unbolt the plate ( which does not seem to have a part number ) from the side rails of the frame there are 4 or 6 self tappers holding it in place.
On some it will drop down a few inches if the gear on the bottom of the steering shaft ( # 11 ) is removed first.
To get it down further you usually have to remove all of the control pedals and you want to avoid that is possible.
This will drop it about 2" at the front so you can get at the heads.
Downside is the target fasteners are now not supported so you need a rattle gun on one end and a ring on the other.

The other way is to slip your fingers between this plate & the frame.
You can feel the fastener heads but will need a 0 offset ring spanner to get on to them.
The bannana or cresent shaped ones work best because there is not much room.
Don't even think about using an open ender. although I have resorted to using a flare nut wrench on one mower because the spanner was too thick to pass over the top of the nut & under the frame.
The bolt ( # 1 ) is captive if the plate is not dropped so it can not fall out.
To replace the nut, which is close to the open end you can jamb it into the end of the spanner using tissue paper or cling film.
I have done some with needle nosed lock jaw wrenches to get the nut started.

With a lot of these type of jobs I stand the mower up vertical because it is easier working sitting down in front than laying down underneath.
If you go that way, put cling wrap over the fuel tank outlet the do the cap up tight ( or drain the tank ) & remove the battery to prevent messy spills.


#15

Fish

Fish

There is not much in the way of actual repair manuals for MTD mowers.
Not having done that particular model I should have done a full frame check before writing my post.
Checking the frame page https://polr.partstree.com/v1/iplimage.php?ir=YToyOntzOjk6ImltYWdlUGF0aCI7czoyNDoiYlhSa0x6YzJPVEF5TXpRelhEQXdNRFE9IjtzOjc6Im9wdGlvbnMiO2E6MTp7czo1OiJ3aWR0aCI7aToxMDAwO319
It is apparent that the fasteners you need to access are bolted to a plate that is under the main frame not above it as earlier thought so there is no access from the top of the mower. Sorry about the misdirection.
These are an even bigger PIA to access

By now you should have the deck off, is not do it.
the easy, but complicated way is to unbolt the plate ( which does not seem to have a part number ) from the side rails of the frame there are 4 or 6 self tappers holding it in place.
On some it will drop down a few inches if the gear on the bottom of the steering shaft ( # 11 ) is removed first.
To get it down further you usually have to remove all of the control pedals and you want to avoid that is possible.
This will drop it about 2" at the front so you can get at the heads.
Downside is the target fasteners are now not supported so you need a rattle gun on one end and a ring on the other.

The other way is to slip your fingers between this plate & the frame.
You can feel the fastener heads but will need a 0 offset ring spanner to get on to them.
The bannana or cresent shaped ones work best because there is not much room.
Don't even think about using an open ender. although I have resorted to using a flare nut wrench on one mower because the spanner was too thick to pass over the top of the nut & under the frame.
The bolt ( # 1 ) is captive if the plate is not dropped so it can not fall out.
To replace the nut, which is close to the open end you can jamb it into the end of the spanner using tissue paper or cling film.
I have done some with needle nosed lock jaw wrenches to get the nut started.

With a lot of these type of jobs I stand the mower up vertical because it is easier working sitting down in front than laying down underneath.
If you go that way, put cling wrap over the fuel tank outlet the do the cap up tight ( or drain the tank ) & remove the battery to prevent messy spills.
LOl...

Or you could just remove the seat and the bolts off of the rear fender, after removing the seat!!!!


#16

Fish

Fish

Or not.....


#17

Fish

Fish

Or not.....

Or you could dick around as described, but the best way is to lift the wheel wells up so you can easily put a wrench on those bolts/nuts....


#18

Fish

Fish

But hey, I have wasted enough time already....

I am way off base.....

Ignore what I have said...


#19

B

bertsmobile1

LOl...

Or you could just remove the seat and the bolts off of the rear fender, after removing the seat!!!!

Not trying to be argumentative or difficult but.
Have a good look.
You are still on top of the frame and the sub assembly is under the frame.
Even using the big hole for the tranny, you will still be on the wrong side of the steering stem to access the offending fasteners and all of the control rods will be in your way as will be the tranny & the tranny belt.
Never done that particular model but usually to remove the rear fender you have to loosen or remove the dash turret first because the fender goes under it and is captive by it.


#20

B

beachbumtroy

ok bertmobile, it seems like ur on spot with what i have to do ill keep looking at it, removing the pedals is not going to happen lol so i`am going to try and lower the plate that might get me into the bolt also that the pto is partially covering,i`ll let
all of u kno how it goes cant start on it till thurs or friday but wwill keep u guys updated thnx and to fish and all others really thnx for ur input as well really,who knows fish might still have to take off seat and fenders and motor lol will keep
u informed thnx and dont stop now keep the ideas coming.


#21

B

beachbumtroy

At least look at this pic....
ok fish, i looked at pic sorry it took so long for me to get back to u the pic is accurate for what u are saying............... but it is not accurate for what i `am talking about i`ll try and post pix of my mower but keep ur ideas coming
cause this is going to be a bear :) thnx

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#22

B

beachbumtroy

Re: help with 54" husky steering gear? OK ALL FIXED

ok guys never did find a manual but with ur help and suggestions, i figured it out turns out, had to use impact to get bolt out of crankshaft to get electric mag off, slid the motor forward and had to cut out a hunk of metal still to get to the 1 bolt that was partially covered by the electric mag,couldnt get a socket or wrench on it without cutting the metal away, did that and got the big gear off,replaced it with 1 ordered along with new small gear and bushings,put it all back together bolted motor in put electric mag back on and LIKE A DUMMIE PUT BOLT BACK IN AND USED IMPACT TO TIGHTEN DOWN AND
SNAPPPPPPPPPPP went the bolt lol....after crying for an hour drilled a hole in bolt and used an easy out came right out luckily,went to rural king got new bolt and tightened down with a ratchet this time and alls well
got 3 more riders im sure will need work soon. thnx bb


#23

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

If your problem is getting a wrench on the top locknuts to remove the assembly, then yes, you will have to raise the fender/wheel well assy. and have to remove the seat to do this.

Fish the nut you are thinking about is the one for the double pulley pivot under the frame. You have to remove the seat, fenders, and pedals to get to that nut. On some of the early models you could access that nut from under the fuel tank but then they moved the nut back about an inch requirement the fenders to be removed.

I have slid a 9/16 box end wrench up into that cavity between the pto and the frame to got onto those nuts but in the end is just easier to remove that plate that the steering is attached to.


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