Help Needed - Zero Turn Radius

[CaptFerd]

Or... I could by pass the module like this guy did...

Iv done the same thing. BS part for a mower.

 

[shreder]

Man, those cheap Toro switches. Brake module switch or seat safety switch.

check the 2 fuses under the key

 

[shreder]

check the 2 fuses under the key

 

[SlopeMan2]

My Bad Boy ZTR acted something like this. The safety switch wire terminal, on the bottom of the control arm, would sometimes touch the frame, and it would die right there. It was different, in that it would blow a fuse. I replaced several fuses before I found it. But, it does sound similar. I wonder if you could have a loose connection in those wires. Good luck. It can sure be frustrating.

 

[MParr]

My Bad Boy ZTR acted something like this. The safety switch wire terminal, on the bottom of the control arm, would sometimes touch the frame, and it would die right there. It was different, in that it would blow a fuse. I replaced several fuses before I found it. But, it does sound similar. I wonder if you could have a loose connection in those wires. Good luck. It can sure be frustrating.

That particular series of Toro mowers is unique. It’s the only series that uses an electronic brake controller. Hustler uses something similar on their mowers. Most mowers use a simple parking brake with a switch attached to the mower. Brake on, plunger on switch is activated.

 

[davisjt1977]

Here is a test that may help confirm or deny your thinking. Most mower engine ignition coils use a ground tab located on the coil which is connected thru the wiring to all the safety circuits & other controls. If you will remove the shroud cover on the engine ( look up the manual/maintenance procedures ), find the coil, disconnect the wire connected to the ground tab. Start the engine (sitting on the seat switch), see if it dies when you move the levers. If it DOES NOT DIE then this confirms the trouble is in the wiring or switches. Re-assemble & continue as needed.

 

[KM Richards]

Well, I went out to tinker with the mower

And, I turned the key on without starting the engine (engine always starts as long as levers are out)

With the key on. I moved the levers in and I can hear the module moving or doing something.

Then, I moved the levers out and I hear the module moving or doing something

So, with the key on I can hear the module doing something each time I move the levers in or if I move the levers out

Then when I started the engine and brought the levers in - it kept running as normal and I'm able to use the mower as normal.

Thru all this, do you think I reset something?

 

[KM Richards]

Reading comments after a video found at

Here's something I need to consider that one guy told of concerning his experience...

FYI - I had this same problem. I disconnected the linkage to the breaks so I could move the machine. I then stopped at a dealership and picked up a new BCM. Only took 10 minutes to install. I thought I was home free. Not so much. With the new BCM installed and connected, I still had problems. The brake actuator would partially move. The mower would start and charge, but engaging the blade killed it after 10 seconds.

I thought I had installed a faulty module but when I went back to the dealership, the tech asked me if it was possible there was corrosion on the pins of the connector. I went home and spent 10 minutes disconnecting the harness to the module, inspected it and found corrosion on 2 of the pins. After a thorough cleaning, I reconnected the module and bang, everything now works fine. In my view, the problem is not a faulty module, but the connection between the harness and the module.

Dirt and moisture can get in even though there is a cover over the assembly. I removed the new assembly and put in the old assembly and it worked fine. Perhaps there are cases where the poor connection can cause the module to fail? I don't think there is a problem with the assembly, there is a problem with the connector and corrosion. I have now completely wrapped the harness and connector to the new assembly with electrical tape to keep it weather and dust proof. Try this before replacing your BCM. It only takes 10 minutes.

 

[Donr]

The seat switch is there to keep you safe and will open if you come off the seat! Jumping out the switch is bad idea as I have seen many safties jumped out and leave the jumper remains in place as long as the mower will run so they leave the jumper installed. The multimeter is the best way to test the set switch, set to the ohms position. With the probes leads touching the pins in the plug push in firmley on the middle of the seat, many meters have a tone setting in the ohms position that will buzz when the switch has pressure applyed you apply pressure to the seat, indiacating the switch is closed. Once you remove pressure from the seat the meter will stop buzzing indiacate an open circuit.
It does not make any difference which way the red or black probe is eather side of the plug.

 

[MParr]

I’m done with this thread. It’s become pointless.