You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Have 12+ volts, but still- starting problem
- Thread starter rigoletto
- Start date
More options
Export threadNot only that, but the small terminal wire on solenoid is orange/white, and it does not go to the starter switch. It goes to the safety switch under the big mower blades control lever. No way to test continuity from starter switch wires directly to that small terminal.
You are correct. That switch is the PTO safety switch. Make sure the it is closing to complete the circuit. Next you must find the brake safety switch and check to see if it is working properly.
Change in wire color means that it is spliced somewhere, as it goes to three safety switches involved.
Thanks, Riv.
But sheesh, I spent hours tonight on this, mosquito bitten, back ache, and so far, heres what I got:
1) Solenoid is still good as it clicks when jumper wire goes from pos to small terminal (right?)
2) I tested ohms on BOTH safety switches (cracked the tab on the hard to reach one) , and I got 0.4-0.5 Ohms on both. I got this value by touchiing one meter lead to one connector, and the other meter lead to one other. the other 2 tabs showed no resistivity reading at all (why?). Reading was obtained with the plastic "pin" depressed, of course. Are theese then good safety switches?
3) They say its rare for a ign switch to be bad. Continuity from orange wire on S terminal on ign switch to small term on solenoid showed no ohms. Again, color does not match, and we know the solenoid wire goes to the safety switch not the ign switch. So, not sure if this test is any worth.
You are correct. That switch is the PTO safety switch. Make sure the it is closing to complete the circuit. Next you must find the brake safety switch and check to see if it is working properly.
Thnaks again, Man. (now youre "Man", not Riv). But if I didnt figure this out from my description in 2) above (0.4 ohms test), how else could one test safety switches?
Yes solenoid is good. Testing safety switches can get tricky. Some are NC and others NO. You have to figure yours out. You said you tested four switches. Can you tell us where each was located, how you tested it and what reading you got. Ex. Tested brake safety switch, pin depressed, reading .04 ohms. Pin open, reading infinite. This will allow us to tell you if we think it is good or bad. I know this is going to take time, but you are our eyes, ears and hands in this operation, we need to see what you feel.
Yes solenoid is good. Testing safety switches can get tricky. Some are NC and others NO. You have to figure yours out. You said you tested four switches. Can you tell us where each was located, how you tested it and what reading you got. Ex. Tested brake safety switch, pin depressed, reading .04 ohms. Pin open, reading infinite. This will allow us to tell you if we think it is good or bad. I know this is going to take time, but you are our eyes, ears and hands in this operation, we need to see what you feel.
OK. At least my mind is clear away from the solenoid.
To be clearer: Yes, I removed BOTH safety switches (SS), BOTH tested with same results, on bench, as follows:
Pin not depressed- one blade end to another one ONLY, got 0.4 ohms. Other 2 blade ends showed no ohms (infinity?)
Pin depressed only slightly, ohms on same 2 blades showed infinity. Both SS had exact same results. Too much coincidence for them to test exact same and one be bad, right? Just a hunch.
You said you tested four switches. .
Just to help clarify more- when I said 4 switches, I meant I touched all 4 blade ends on the safety switch. So, its not 4 switches, but rather 4 terminal blade ends on EACH safety switch.....
Only found a ohms reading when connecting only 2 of the blade terminals, though. (explained this earlier, but not sure if I made it clrear)