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I have a 1996 Honda EM-2500X generator that has been a bugger to start since new. I only run it occasionally, really haven't had a real need to use it, but want it ready in case of an emergency. Here in northern Minnesota, starting some small engines in colder weather can be a real chore. Today I tried to start the engine and when I didn't start, I took of air filter and squirted some starting fluid. It started but it would only continue to run on full choke. When I had run it for a reasonable length of time and engine was warm, I tried to open the choke to normal operating position. As soon as I started to move the choke lever the engine started to starve for fuel. It will only run on full choke, which isn't recommended. What the heck can be the problem. A plugged jet? I'm not a mechanic and I can only guess.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Normally in this case I would be recommending removing the carb and cleaning plus rebuilding it. NOT THIS TIME. Carbs on these units a cheaper to replace than rebuild. Post all your model numbers and we will be able tell you the part number and approximate cost. Robert@Honda will probably chime in and be able to give you some other ideas, but he will need all those numbers also.

This is an EM-2500, frame serial number: EZCN-1049312, engine serial number: 3854913. I hope this helps.

Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate the help.

Generator ten to just set around till needed. The gas just go's bad. Try to drain out the old gas and install fresh gas just to see what happens. I have had several generator's come into my shop that I just clean the carburetor without spending any money for parts. Some times the needle valve will go bad but it doesn't sound like that is your problem. I would say if you can't repair it yourself then maybe the new carburetor would be the way to go.

I have been using non-oxygenated gas, 91 octane, with either Sea-Foam or StarTron enzyme gas additive. I have used this for a while. I only start and run this generator about 3 times a year so I have been pretty picky about what kind of gas I use. I would suspect that the jets need to be cleaned out. From what I have been reading on the forums, that seems to be the general consensus.

reynoldston said:

Generator ten to just set around till needed. The gas just go's bad. Try to drain out the old gas and install fresh gas just to see what happens. I have had several generator's come into my shop that I just clean the carburetor without spending any money for parts. Some times the needle valve will go bad but it doesn't sound like that is your problem. I would say if you can't repair it yourself then maybe the new carburetor would be the way to go.

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I have been using non-oxygenated gas, 91 octane, with either Sea-Foam or StarTron enzyme gas additive. I have used this for a while. I only start and run this generator about 3 times a year so I have been pretty picky about what kind of gas I use. I would suspect that the jets need to be cleaned out. From what I have been reading on the forums, that seems to be the general consensus.

mucksiegooma said:

I have been using non-oxygenated gas, 91 octane, with either Sea-Foam or StarTron enzyme gas additive. I have used this for a while. I only start and run this generator about 3 times a year so I have been pretty picky about what kind of gas I use. I would suspect that the jets need to be cleaned out. From what I have been reading on the forums, that seems to be the general consensus.

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Just because you add junk to your gas its still go's bad. Start small and work up to the bigger things. I just suggest to start with the simple things first like fresh fuel. Jets just don't plug by themselves with clean fuel. Yes clean the carburetor would be my second step. Them if that doesn't work as first suggested new carburetor. Instead of all the additives I would install a fuel filter. Sorry I am just a nonbeliever of additives and high octane gas because I find they do more harm then good. The only additive I do install in a small amount is dry gas.

reynoldston said:

Just because you add junk to your gas its still go's bad. Start small and work up to the bigger things. I just suggest to start with the simple things first like fresh fuel. Jets just don't plug by themselves with clean fuel. Yes clean the carburetor would be my second step. Them if that doesn't work as first suggested new carburetor. Instead of all the additives I would install a fuel filter. Sorry I am just a nonbeliever of additives and high octane gas because I find they do more harm then good. The only additive I do install in a small amount is dry gas.

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Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure what "dry gas" is. I will install a fuel filter and have the carburetor cleaned.

mucksiegooma said:

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure what "dry gas" is. I will install a fuel filter and have the carburetor cleaned.

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Dry gas is for moisture in the fuel and any auto parts store has it, just ask for it.

reynoldston said:

Dry gas is for moisture in the fuel and any auto parts store has it, just ask for it.

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Are you talking like "Heet", or isopropal alcohol?

mucksiegooma said:

This is an EM-2500, frame serial number: EZCN-1049312, engine serial number: 3854913. I hope this helps.

Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate the help.

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That is an EM2500X (K1) which is a slightly updated version of the original model (K0). K1 changes were to make the engine compliant with California Air Resources Board rules.
This specific serial number was wholesaled by Honda to a dealer in Burnsville MN, on 2/12/1996. There is no records of the first retail sale/customer on file. If you'll send me a PM with your name add address, I can update the database to show you as the current owner. Honda asks for this information in the unlikely event there is ever a Product Safety Recall and Honda can contact you.

"Only runs on full choke" is a classic symptom of a clogged main jet and or main nozzle (see highlighted parts):



Sometimes a good quality fuel system cleaner can flush out the slime/debris, but it may required the carburetor to be removed and completely cleaned. This can be done with some spray carb cleaner and compressed air, or, have the entire carb spend a few hours in a ultrasonic cleaning tank. As a last resort, it can sometime be cheaper/faster/easier just to replace the carburetor, but this list price on a whole new one is $51.87, so a cleaning might be best to try first.

The carb should be removed from the engine for a proper job. This is quite straightforward on the EM2500, and be sure to have a clean well-lit workspace when tearing down the carburetor. A shop manual will help tremendously with this job, and Honda sells paper copies on eBay and Amazon, either with free shipping.

Honda Power Equipment Shop Manuals on eBay
Honda Power Equipment Shop Manuals on Amazon

I fix a lot of these carbs as they are fitted to fire pumps that are fitted into residential street fire trailers all over the state & I have a contract with the maintenance company.
When not used for a long while they seem to suffer really badly from both galvanic corrosion & bacterial infestation if left with fuel in the float bowls.
On a newer engine it is off with the float bown , out with the main jet & emulsion tube.
These 3 items go into the ultrasound for a 1/2 hour cook , rinse in boiling water then carb cleaner & blow dry.
About 1 in 40 need the carb itself to be removed and cleaned it is nearly always in the float bowl .
Be really careful with the screwdriver you use to remove the main jet , the sot is easily damaged and there is usually substantial corrosion on the threads in the carb.
I use one of those ratchet drivers with a short 3" driver like a socket driver so I can apply heavy upward pressure on the driver head with my thumb while doing the turning with the other hand so the main jet knocks the crud off the thread as it comes out.

If the zinc plating on the inside of the float bowl is compromised anywhere, replace the bowl.
I have never had to replace anything other than the bowl itself, the bowl gasket ( every time ) & ocassionally an emulsion tube if they have not been mutilated by prior ham fisted clots.
On some really old carbs the floats stain very badly and seem to get a little heavy & brittle so 1 in 50 might get replaced.
There was a 10 pack of float needles in the take over stock with 9 needles in it and over the 2 years I have used one of them & that was because the customed demanded it get a new needle.
AFAIK the seat is not removable.