Grinding noise or metal sound when blade engaged

[JimP2014]

I appreciate this additional comment about the break it's interesting because it's like you just slightly take your foot off the brake and the thing shoots off like a jackrabbit it's like I'm trying to figure out how to tone it down a bit which might be a separate issue I don't know. But here's what I can say so I drove it around the yard with no mower deck engaged + I didn't really hear the noise that much it's constant like a ringing noise which seems to only occur when the blades are engaged but it's not as bad as it was say yesterday. It also feels like when I do engage blades the mower engine is working a little harder than normal when the mower deck is perfectly fine I don't know for sure on this but I'll know if I blow another head gasket this is true.

Jim

I appreciate this additional comment about the break it's interesting because it's like you just slightly take your foot off the brake and the thing shoots off like a jackrabbit it's like I'm trying to figure out how to tone it down a bit which might be a separate issue I don't know. But here's what I can say so I drove it around the yard with no mower deck engaged + I didn't really hear the noise that much it's constant like a ringing noise which seems to only occur when the blades are engaged but it's not as bad as it was say yesterday. It also feels like when I do engage blades the mower engine is working a little harder than normal when the mower deck is perfectly fine I don't know for sure on this but I'll know if I blow another head gasket this is true.

Jim

So I went to get on on the riding mower just to start it up I pressed a break in and then I take my foot off the brake there's this weird kind of loud clanging noise I've never actually heard it before I don't know what that means? I will try and upload a video to YouTube soon

Thanks
Jim

 

[JimP2014]

So I went to get on on the riding mower just to start it up I pressed a break in and then I take my foot off the brake there's this weird kind of loud clanging noise I've never actually heard it before I don't know what that means? I will try and upload a video to YouTube soon

Thanks
Jim

Just to follow up on this I never actually started the engine I just sat on the seat and kept pressing the brake

 

[JimP2014]

Just to follow up on this I never actually started the engine I just sat on the seat and kept pressing the brake

I see there's a lot of videos to watch on the lt2000 brake clutch assembly hopefully this solves the problem but thanks for various individuals helping me so far

 

[Johner]

I just made this video you can hear the grinding or whatever that noise is + the mower deck is shaking and something weird with the pulleys.

Jim

I would say the idler pully is bad, is what you are hearing is the bearing.

 

[JimP2014]

I would say the idler pully is bad, is what you are hearing is the bearing.

Hi Thanks for your reply, the idler pulley is part of the mower deck, you meant it this way? I have never looked up parts for the drive train but a quick search yields this:

I have 2 brand new mower deck pulleys, just arrived yesterday - I have yet to install them.

Me to Google: Does the drivetrain for the lt2000 have an idler pulley? <-- this link is a real search link not spam, etc.
Answer: ( from Google )

Search Labs | AI Overview

Yes, the Craftsman LT2000 drivetrain system utilizes idler pulleys
. These pulleys play a crucial role in maintaining proper tension on the drive belt and ensuring its correct routing and alignment around other components like the engine and transmission pulleys. This helps prevent belt slippage and promotes efficient power transfer to the wheels, according to JustAnswer.
A common type of idler pulley found in lawn mowers, including the LT2000, is the flat idler pulley, designed to work with flat belt systems and provide a smooth surface for belt contact. You may find different variations of idler pulleys depending on the specific model and year of your Craftsman LT2000, as some manuals may show differences in the number and placement of these pulleys.
If you are experiencing issues with belt slippage or improper tensioning on your LT2000, it's recommended to consult the mower's manual for the correct belt routing diagram and inspect the idler pulleys for smooth rotation and proper tension.

 

[JimP2014]

Hi Thanks for your reply, the idler pulley is part of the mower deck, you meant it this way? I have never looked up parts for the drive train but a quick search yields this:

I have 2 brand new mower deck pulleys, just arrived yesterday - I have yet to install them.

Me to Google: Does the drivetrain for the lt2000 have an idler pulley? <-- this link is a real search link not spam, etc.
Answer: ( from Google )

Search Labs | AI Overview

Yes, the Craftsman LT2000 drivetrain system utilizes idler pulleys
. These pulleys play a crucial role in maintaining proper tension on the drive belt and ensuring its correct routing and alignment around other components like the engine and transmission pulleys. This helps prevent belt slippage and promotes efficient power transfer to the wheels, according to JustAnswer.
A common type of idler pulley found in lawn mowers, including the LT2000, is the flat idler pulley, designed to work with flat belt systems and provide a smooth surface for belt contact. You may find different variations of idler pulleys depending on the specific model and year of your Craftsman LT2000, as some manuals may show differences in the number and placement of these pulleys.
If you are experiencing issues with belt slippage or improper tensioning on your LT2000, it's recommended to consult the mower's manual for the correct belt routing diagram and inspect the idler pulleys for smooth rotation and

I just wanted to mention if it is a brake related issue, this guy created a pretty amazing video on the topic, I am endorsing it but I have no clue who he is.

Jim

 

[JimP2014]

I just wanted to mention if it is a brake related issue, this guy created a pretty amazing video on the topic, I am endorsing it but I have no clue who he is.

Jim

3. Adjust the Linkage:
If the spring is not at the correct tension: Loosen the jam nut on the linkage rod. Adjust the other nut to achieve the desired spring compression (e.g., 1 1/2 inches).
Retighten the jam nut: to secure the adjustment.

Hello I got to the part where I'm going to try and adjust the ground drive break the regular brake that stops the riding mower + when I took off the right rear wheel the configuration I got doesn't even look like this there is no jam nut or the other bolt it's just cotter pin that holds a spring that goes back to where the brake disc area is so I can't tell there is no adjustment maybe you have to bend this spring that hooks into where the disc brake rotor plate is I don't got it does anybody know this. Also when I was talking about this clanging noise when you put your foot on the brake it has to do with that metal linkage rod near the right rear wheel you can just move it back and forth and it makes a clanging noise it's like loose so when the brake is at rest I would think that linkage should not be moving dss back towards the rear wheels and up towards the front wheels it slides back and forth and the horizontal plane in the horizontal plane like how do you tighten that up I think I should start there?

Thanks,

Jiin

 

[JimP2014]

3. Adjust the Linkage:
If the spring is not at the correct tension: Loosen the jam nut on the linkage rod. Adjust the other nut to achieve the desired spring compression (e.g., 1 1/2 inches).
Retighten the jam nut: to secure the adjustment.

Hello I got to the part where I'm going to try and adjust the ground drive break the regular brake that stops the riding mower + when I took off the right rear wheel the configuration I got doesn't even look like this there is no jam nut or the other bolt it's just cotter pin that holds a spring that goes back to where the brake disc area is so I can't tell there is no adjustment maybe you have to bend this spring that hooks into where the disc brake rotor plate is I don't got it does anybody know this. Also when I was talking about this clanging noise when you put your foot on the brake it has to do with that metal linkage rod near the right rear wheel you can just move it back and forth and it makes a clanging noise it's like loose so when the brake is at rest I would think that linkage should not be moving dss back towards the rear wheels and up towards the front wheels it slides back and forth and the horizontal plane in the horizontal plane like how do you tighten that up I think I should start there?

Thanks,

Jiin

 

[JimP2014]

Part 159 is the cotter pin and then there's a washer behind it that is part 15

 

[JimP2014]

Part 159 is the cotter pin and then there's a washer behind it that is part 15

Maybe I answered my own question just get either a shorter spring or the same size spring assuming that spring is so old that it's no good anymore does that sound right it's the only thing I could come up with?