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Grinding noise or metal sound when blade engaged
#1
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Hello had a similar post maybe last week + I'm adding this post also. I was hoping to get a clarification on something so I'm watching a YouTube video + what I need to know is if the mower deck is not engaged and everything sounds okay and then I engage the mower deck and I hear this grinding or metal sound that it has to be coming from something on the mower deck r the mower deck belt the video I watched seems like he's saying it could be coming from the other belt that has nothing to do with the mower deck just the drive belt I guess you should call it.
Could someone please give me a clarification on this issue?
Thanks,
Jim
Could someone please give me a clarification on this issue?
Thanks,
Jim
#2
J
JimP2014
I just made this video you can hear the grinding or whatever that noise is + the mower deck is shaking and something weird with the pulleys.
Jim
J
JimP2014
I just made this video you can hear the grinding or whatever that noise is + the mower deck is shaking and something weird with the pulleys.
Jim
#3
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
My guess would be either there is a bad/burnt spot in the belt which is narrower than the rest of the belt, or something stuck in the groove of one of the spindle V pulleys.
#4
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Thank you so much I really do appreciate this. I was planning on getting a new belt and then I thought I didn't have to because the issue was the head gasket but now I'm definitely getting a new belt for it thanks again.My guess would be either there is a bad/burnt spot in the belt which is narrower than the rest of the belt, or something stuck in the groove of one of the spindle V pulleys.
Jim
#5
Cusser
Cusser
That idler pulley is really bouncing around. If mine, I'd remove the mowing belt (or the entire deck) and spin all the pulleys by hand (you will need to manually pull back on some pulley "brakes" to do this) and feel if any are noisy or binding. I'd also clean/lube the track/slot the idler pulley rides in. And of course a spare kevlar belt (or two) is always good to have around. Make sure that no belt guards are bent and making contact with a pulley when they should not.
On my 2005 LT1000, I remove the plastic guard over the left mowing spindle and can then R&R a mowing belt without removing the deck (the mower instructions state to remove the entire deck for this).
On my 2005 LT1000, I remove the plastic guard over the left mowing spindle and can then R&R a mowing belt without removing the deck (the mower instructions state to remove the entire deck for this).
#6
J
JimP2014
This is what I ordered November of 2024
" I'd also clean/lube the track/slot the idler pulley rides in" <--- will try this, never did this before.
And thank-you for your info on this.
Jim
J
JimP2014
Drive Deck Belt 1/2" x100 1/4"
This is what I ordered November of 2024
Yes I actually did that. I replaced one spindle with a brand new one. I spun each one individually. They seem fine. I could not figure it out. If the new belt does not fix the problem, I will repeat all the steps again.That idler pulley is really bouncing around. If mine, I'd remove the mowing belt (or the entire deck) and spin all the pulleys by hand (you will need to manually pull back on some pulley "brakes" to do this) and feel if any are noisy or binding. I'd also clean/lube the track/slot the idler pulley rides in. And of course a spare kevlar belt (or two) is always good to have around. Make sure that no belt guards are bent and making contact with a pulley when they should not.
On my 2005 LT1000, I remove the plastic guard over the left mowing spindle and can then R&R a mowing belt without removing the deck (the mower instructions state to remove the entire deck for this).
" I'd also clean/lube the track/slot the idler pulley rides in" <--- will try this, never did this before.
And thank-you for your info on this.
Jim
#7
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
One thing I would like to mention is the belt that works is actually is unknown to me:
197253 429636 Mower Belt Replaces Craftsman poulan 42 Mower Belt 197253 532197253 592855001 AYP 197253 532197253 592855001,Ariens 21546422 21547025 (1/2"x101"). The problem is I do not know if the last belt I ordered in 2024 is the one currently on the machine, which is black. The one I ordered is a red kevlar belt which is
Drive Deck Belt 1/2" x100 1/4". So I am not sure what is on the mower deck now. I bought so many, the second to the last one might be the correct length and I just reordered the last one I bought.
#9
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
This is the belt from the machine. Red kevlar. The entire length of the "outside" of the belt has a black stripe. I wonder if somehow the belt was inside out on the mower deck. This is the belt that was on the machine up to yesterday. So it is a "V" belt the widest part has the black stripe. The narrower part has some fraying but no black stripe.
#10
J
JimP2014
I sprayed some WD-40 on the all the pulleys top part and I put the belt on maybe it was inside out it's better but there's still some noise that I can't identify where it's coming from.
Jim
J
JimP2014
I sprayed some WD-40 on the all the pulleys top part and I put the belt on maybe it was inside out it's better but there's still some noise that I can't identify where it's coming from.
Jim
#11
J
JimP2014
Hello this is the latest just replaced the mower deck belt with the identical one and the belt is perfect but there's this weird noise when engaging the blades it might be a pulley I don't know what it is but individually they all spin when you remove the deck completely away from the machine it's just everything's all hooked up the problem seems to surface but this is it if anybody has any ideas based on sound I would appreciate it greatly.
J
JimP2014
Hello this is the latest just replaced the mower deck belt with the identical one and the belt is perfect but there's this weird noise when engaging the blades it might be a pulley I don't know what it is but individually they all spin when you remove the deck completely away from the machine it's just everything's all hooked up the problem seems to surface but this is it if anybody has any ideas based on sound I would appreciate it greatly.
#12
J
JimP2014
Thanks,
Jim
J
JimP2014
I believe that they all rotate perfectly the pulleys just based on what you're hearing does it sound like a specific pulley? Or something else?
Hello this is the latest just replaced the mower deck belt with the identical one and the belt is perfect but there's this weird noise when engaging the blades it might be a pulley I don't know what it is but individually they all spin when you remove the deck completely away from the machine it's just everything's all hooked up the problem seems to surface but this is it if anybody has any ideas based on sound I would appreciate it greatly.
Thanks,
Jim
#13
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Today I should be getting another brand new spindle + maybe I don't need it but this Craftsman lt 2000 42-in deck will now have two brand new spindles made a video yesterday where there's a grinding noise + the more I thought about it it's possible because I reduced the tension on that spring for the PTO lever itself so I'm wondering if the transition from the brake against the pulley to no break against the pulley it's taking a lot longer and that is the grinding noise that I'm hearing I imagine when you move that lever to engage the blades that the break should be completely away from the pulley and very quickly but I'm not positive but it's just something if someone reads this it might help them. So in summary I think by adjusting that slide bracket which mounts to the mower deck clutch that there's a lot more play in it it could be preventing the brake from moving away from the pulley very quickly. So it's just that slide bracket so a slight movement of the PTO lever causes the pulley brake to move away pretty much right away.
Jim
Jim
#14
J
JimP2014
Latest video and mostly audio. I have replaced both spindles, brand new belt and only one pulley. Everything seems to spin fine, meaning 2 pullets, 2 spindles and one belt.
The audio when using a phone is much louder for some reason.
It might come down to someone who has heard this many times before, but that ain't me.
Jim
J
JimP2014
Latest video and mostly audio. I have replaced both spindles, brand new belt and only one pulley. Everything seems to spin fine, meaning 2 pullets, 2 spindles and one belt.
The audio when using a phone is much louder for some reason.
It might come down to someone who has heard this many times before, but that ain't me.
Jim
#16
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
So today the same problem when you engage the blades there's this grinding type of noise then it goes away and then it's a constant metal kind of noise with spinning blades or spindles or pulleys whatever but what I'm wondering the mower deck has two pulleys + if you look at each pulley one has a shaft that is raised and one has a shaft that is recessed maybe I have those on backwards maybe the schematic from Sears is incorrect I will be looking at tomorrow I wonder if anyone with an LT 2000 mower deck 42 in ran across the same problem with the pulleys they don't seem to be identical at all
Jim
Jim
#17
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
What I mean to say is in all the schematics on paper one seems raised shaft and the other seems recessed shaft I got to figure out what I got going on on my mower deck I don't know the answer that one right now but that might be part of it so when the grinding noise goes away after a couple seconds then there is this constant spinning metal grinding noise high pitchedSo today the same problem when you engage the blades there's this grinding type of noise then it goes away and then it's a constant metal kind of noise with spinning blades or spindles or pulleys whatever but what I'm wondering the mower deck has two pulleys + if you look at each pulley one has a shaft that is raised and one has a shaft that is recessed maybe I have those on backwards maybe the schematic from Sears is incorrect I will be looking at tomorrow I wonder if anyone with an LT 2000 mower deck 42 in ran across the same problem with the pulleys they don't seem to be identical at all
Jim
#19
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
If you notice it's rusted it's been this way for years it never made a noise and now that everything's perfect there's constant grinding when the blade is engaged and when it's running there's this constant noise.
#20
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
Follow the path of the belt around the complete deck. Look for signs of it rubbing on the deck itself or other components, such as brake linkages or keepers. Make sure you are running the spindle pulley covers as they are keepers in themselves. If you don't find anything, try mowing and see what the results are.
#21
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Freddie I will I have done that a dozen times or more and here is what I know:
I have a brand new 'pretty' red colored belt that got a black stripe right away. I have had the entire deck away from the riding mower at least 6 times. I can't figure it out. The black stripe is on the outside of the belt, not the inside from what I can tell.
I am getting these today:
#36 from deck diagram
"Flat idler pulley
Part #197379
The other pulley is this one:
#145 from deck diagram
Mower deck diagram
Lawn tractor blade idler pulley
Part #193197
Replaced by #532177968
Whatever that means but the bottom line is 2 new pulleys. I already have 2 new spindles and 1 red 100.25" x 5/8" belt.
I am reprinting this below, I found a few weeks ago. I think I need to someone else to look at this machine in person.
From Google AI search:
"A black stripe on the outside of a brand-new mower deck belt typically indicates
friction and potential overheating due to a misalignment or obstruction in the belt system.
Here are the most likely causes:
I have a brand new 'pretty' red colored belt that got a black stripe right away. I have had the entire deck away from the riding mower at least 6 times. I can't figure it out. The black stripe is on the outside of the belt, not the inside from what I can tell.
I am getting these today:
532196106 Husqvarna Idler Pulley with 532177968 Idler Pulley Replaces 532197379 Husqvarna Idler Pulley, 196106 Idler Pulley Craftsman, 197379 177968 193197 for Husqvarna Z254 YTH20K46 Mowers.
Sears refers to one as:#36 from deck diagram
"Flat idler pulley
Part #197379
The other pulley is this one:
#145 from deck diagram
Mower deck diagram
Lawn tractor blade idler pulley
Part #193197
Replaced by #532177968
Whatever that means but the bottom line is 2 new pulleys. I already have 2 new spindles and 1 red 100.25" x 5/8" belt.
I am reprinting this below, I found a few weeks ago. I think I need to someone else to look at this machine in person.
From Google AI search:
"A black stripe on the outside of a brand-new mower deck belt typically indicates
friction and potential overheating due to a misalignment or obstruction in the belt system.
Here are the most likely causes:
- Belt rubbing against a belt guide or part of the mower deck: Misaligned idler pulleys, worn or bent deck mounts, or improper belt installation can cause the belt to rub against something it shouldn't. This friction generates heat and can leave a black mark on the belt's surface.
- Damaged or seized pulley/idler bearings: When a pulley or idler's bearings wear out, it can cause the component to wobble, not spin freely, or even seize, increasing friction with the belt. This can also result in black marks or even black, stringy material coming from the pulley/idler area.
- Incorrect belt tension: While proper tension prevents slipping, overtightening can also cause rubbing and premature belt damage.
- Turn off the mower and disconnect the spark plug wire for safety.
- Visually inspect the entire belt system for any signs of rubbing or misalignment, including belt guides, pulleys, and the mower deck itself.
- Check if all pulleys spin freely and don't wobble or have excessive play.
- Ensure the belt is correctly routed around all pulleys and idlers according to the manufacturer's diagram.
- Check the belt tension according to your mower's manual. A belt should be taut but have a little bit of give.
#22
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
i would make sure the blade brakes aren't contacting the spindles when in the engaged position.
#23
jes_in_sac
jes_in_sac
My very old LT1000 gets a lot of hard use cutting weeds on my rough 5 acres, and has been modified and repaired often... but that old Kohler 16.5hp engine keeps on chugging. I've lost count on the number of spindles I've replaced [usually when I hit something hard hidden in the weeds], along with bearings. The easiest is to pull the desk off and check every component, and lube where needed... every spring, brakes, blades, spindles and pulleys. It only takes 5 min to pull the whole deck off. Be careful using WD-40, as it will gum up. I prefer dry lube or SuperLube synthetic Teflon grease. I've had spindle housings crack or break, springs break or come loose, brakes rubbing, engagement cable loosen or break, and pulleys loosen and slip on the spline. They are extremely durable and easy to work on, but will wear and break. At lease parts are cheap and easy to get for them... and I've had no problem with the aftermarket parts for them. And I always keep a spare deck belt or two. A belt that is ready to go or stretched will make things bounce around. The grinding noise has usually been brakes dragging when they didn't release properly because something was preventing it, and the brake pad material was gone. I ending up removing a section of pad from some old disc brake pads from the car and using JB Weld to replace the pad material on the deck brakes.
#24
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I did look at that a wek ago. But I was actually thinking about looking at that again today, you convinced me. I actually only have one right now it is the blade brake for the left spindle. Which is brand new spindle from yesterday. The blade brake for that is spindle is brand new from say 3 weeks agao.i would make sure the blade brakes aren't contacting the spindles when in the engaged position.
#25
J
JimP2014
The belt is 7 days old and first time out ended up with black stripe around the outside of it.
J
JimP2014
I think removing the deck at least 10 times, so far I got it down to under 3 mins. I remove the chute guard, place an old air matress below the deck remove the pins ( 5 of then really quick no pliers needed ), slide the deck towards the left side and sort of angle it so I don't have to remove the cable and then lean it against the left side front tire mostly.My very old LT1000 gets a lot of hard use cutting weeds on my rough 5 acres, and has been modified and repaired often... but that old Kohler 16.5hp engine keeps on chugging. I've lost count on the number of spindles I've replaced [usually when I hit something hard hidden in the weeds], along with bearings. The easiest is to pull the desk off and check every component, and lube where needed... every spring, brakes, blades, spindles and pulleys. It only takes 5 min to pull the whole deck off. Be careful using WD-40, as it will gum up. I prefer dry lube or SuperLube synthetic Teflon grease. I've had spindle housings crack or break, springs break or come loose, brakes rubbing, engagement cable loosen or break, and pulleys loosen and slip on the spline. They are extremely durable and easy to work on, but will wear and break. At lease parts are cheap and easy to get for them... and I've had no problem with the aftermarket parts for them. And I always keep a spare deck belt or two. A belt that is ready to go or stretched will make things bounce around. The grinding noise has usually been brakes dragging when they didn't release properly because something was preventing it, and the brake pad material was gone. I ending up removing a section of pad from some old disc brake pads from the car and using JB Weld to replace the pad material on the deck brakes.
The belt is 7 days old and first time out ended up with black stripe around the outside of it.
#26
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
So I made the clutch cable tighter, and that lever slide to engage the blades happens now without any noise. I know better not say this actually, cuz the next time out the tractor blows up. But maybe I can say, I think your were on to something with respect to the blade brake making contact with the spindle's pulley. As you slide the mower deck lever say 1" the blade brake needs to move away from the pulley say 1/32". I am just making these numbers up but the point is when the pto lever is all the way as far as it can go and this is from my machine the blade brake is maybe 1/2" away from the pulley right now. The brake is on the RHS. I have all the hardware for brakes plus 2 new pulleys coming today. So if I think I can get everything together without breaking something else, I might try. I changed strategy and for the slide bracket I went extreme tight and saw the clearance and then backed it off so now the bolt is at 3/4 position, full position would be where the pto lever would be almost impossible to move. But now when I cut there is other noise so I stop the machine and the noise seems to go away. Maybe it is something else like the axles or the wheels on the mower deck. I am not positive about this it still might be deck related.I think removing the deck at least 10 times, so far I got it down to under 3 mins. I remove the chute guard, place an old air matress below the deck remove the pins ( 5 of then really quick no pliers needed ), slide the deck towards the left side and sort of angle it so I don't have to remove the cable and then lean it against the left side front tire mostly.
The belt is 7 days old and first time out ended up with black stripe around the outside of it.
Jim
#27
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Noise while driving could also be ground drive belt idlersSo I made the clutch cable tighter, and that lever slide to engage the blades happens now without any noise. I know better not say this actually, cuz the next time out the tractor blows up. But maybe I can say, I think your were on to something with respect to the blade brake making contact with the spindle's pulley. As you slide the mower deck lever say 1" the blade brake needs to move away from the pulley say 1/32". I am just making these numbers up but the point is when the pto lever is all the way as far as it can go and this is from my machine the blade brake is maybe 1/2" away from the pulley right now. The brake is on the RHS. I have all the hardware for brakes plus 2 new pulleys coming today. So if I think I can get everything together without breaking something else, I might try. I changed strategy and for the slide bracket I went extreme tight and saw the clearance and then backed it off so now the bolt is at 3/4 position, full position would be where the pto lever would be almost impossible to move. But now when I cut there is other noise so I stop the machine and the noise seems to go away. Maybe it is something else like the axles or the wheels on the mower deck. I am not positive about this it still might be deck related.
Jim
#28
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
"Noise while driving could also be ground drive belt idlers" < --- thanks for this, they are most likely original from 15yrs ago or more, I got the machine for free maybe 8 yrs ago.Noise while driving could also be ground drive belt idlers
#29
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
a quick check for this is to press the clutch/brake pedal in."Noise while driving could also be ground drive belt idlers" < --- thanks for this, they are most likely original from 15yrs ago or more, I got the machine for free maybe 8 yrs ago.
#30
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
I appreciate this additional comment about the break it's interesting because it's like you just slightly take your foot off the brake and the thing shoots off like a jackrabbit it's like I'm trying to figure out how to tone it down a bit which might be a separate issue I don't know. But here's what I can say so I drove it around the yard with no mower deck engaged + I didn't really hear the noise that much it's constant like a ringing noise which seems to only occur when the blades are engaged but it's not as bad as it was say yesterday. It also feels like when I do engage blades the mower engine is working a little harder than normal when the mower deck is perfectly fine I don't know for sure on this but I'll know if I blow another head gasket this is true.a quick check for this is to press the clutch/brake pedal in.
Jim
#31
J
JimP2014
Thanks
Jim
J
JimP2014
I appreciate this additional comment about the break it's interesting because it's like you just slightly take your foot off the brake and the thing shoots off like a jackrabbit it's like I'm trying to figure out how to tone it down a bit which might be a separate issue I don't know. But here's what I can say so I drove it around the yard with no mower deck engaged + I didn't really hear the noise that much it's constant like a ringing noise which seems to only occur when the blades are engaged but it's not as bad as it was say yesterday. It also feels like when I do engage blades the mower engine is working a little harder than normal when the mower deck is perfectly fine I don't know for sure on this but I'll know if I blow another head gasket this is true.
Jim
So I went to get on on the riding mower just to start it up I pressed a break in and then I take my foot off the brake there's this weird kind of loud clanging noise I've never actually heard it before I don't know what that means? I will try and upload a video to YouTube soonI appreciate this additional comment about the break it's interesting because it's like you just slightly take your foot off the brake and the thing shoots off like a jackrabbit it's like I'm trying to figure out how to tone it down a bit which might be a separate issue I don't know. But here's what I can say so I drove it around the yard with no mower deck engaged + I didn't really hear the noise that much it's constant like a ringing noise which seems to only occur when the blades are engaged but it's not as bad as it was say yesterday. It also feels like when I do engage blades the mower engine is working a little harder than normal when the mower deck is perfectly fine I don't know for sure on this but I'll know if I blow another head gasket this is true.
Jim
Thanks
Jim
#32
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Just to follow up on this I never actually started the engine I just sat on the seat and kept pressing the brakeSo I went to get on on the riding mower just to start it up I pressed a break in and then I take my foot off the brake there's this weird kind of loud clanging noise I've never actually heard it before I don't know what that means? I will try and upload a video to YouTube soon
Thanks
Jim
#33
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I see there's a lot of videos to watch on the lt2000 brake clutch assembly hopefully this solves the problem but thanks for various individuals helping me so farJust to follow up on this I never actually started the engine I just sat on the seat and kept pressing the brake
#34
J
Johner
J
Johner
I would say the idler pully is bad, is what you are hearing is the bearing.
I just made this video you can hear the grinding or whatever that noise is + the mower deck is shaking and something weird with the pulleys.
Jim
#35
J
JimP2014
I have 2 brand new mower deck pulleys, just arrived yesterday - I have yet to install them.
Me to Google: Does the drivetrain for the lt2000 have an idler pulley? <-- this link is a real search link not spam, etc.
Answer: ( from Google )
Search Labs | AI Overview
Yes, the Craftsman LT2000 drivetrain system utilizes idler pulleys
. These pulleys play a crucial role in maintaining proper tension on the drive belt and ensuring its correct routing and alignment around other components like the engine and transmission pulleys. This helps prevent belt slippage and promotes efficient power transfer to the wheels, according to JustAnswer.
A common type of idler pulley found in lawn mowers, including the LT2000, is the flat idler pulley, designed to work with flat belt systems and provide a smooth surface for belt contact. You may find different variations of idler pulleys depending on the specific model and year of your Craftsman LT2000, as some manuals may show differences in the number and placement of these pulleys.
If you are experiencing issues with belt slippage or improper tensioning on your LT2000, it's recommended to consult the mower's manual for the correct belt routing diagram and inspect the idler pulleys for smooth rotation and proper tension.
J
JimP2014
Hi Thanks for your reply, the idler pulley is part of the mower deck, you meant it this way? I have never looked up parts for the drive train but a quick search yields this:I would say the idler pully is bad, is what you are hearing is the bearing.
I have 2 brand new mower deck pulleys, just arrived yesterday - I have yet to install them.
Me to Google: Does the drivetrain for the lt2000 have an idler pulley? <-- this link is a real search link not spam, etc.
Answer: ( from Google )
Search Labs | AI Overview
Yes, the Craftsman LT2000 drivetrain system utilizes idler pulleys
. These pulleys play a crucial role in maintaining proper tension on the drive belt and ensuring its correct routing and alignment around other components like the engine and transmission pulleys. This helps prevent belt slippage and promotes efficient power transfer to the wheels, according to JustAnswer.
A common type of idler pulley found in lawn mowers, including the LT2000, is the flat idler pulley, designed to work with flat belt systems and provide a smooth surface for belt contact. You may find different variations of idler pulleys depending on the specific model and year of your Craftsman LT2000, as some manuals may show differences in the number and placement of these pulleys.
If you are experiencing issues with belt slippage or improper tensioning on your LT2000, it's recommended to consult the mower's manual for the correct belt routing diagram and inspect the idler pulleys for smooth rotation and proper tension.
#36
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
I just wanted to mention if it is a brake related issue, this guy created a pretty amazing video on the topic, I am endorsing it but I have no clue who he is.Hi Thanks for your reply, the idler pulley is part of the mower deck, you meant it this way? I have never looked up parts for the drive train but a quick search yields this:
I have 2 brand new mower deck pulleys, just arrived yesterday - I have yet to install them.
Me to Google: Does the drivetrain for the lt2000 have an idler pulley? <-- this link is a real search link not spam, etc.
Answer: ( from Google )
Search Labs | AI Overview
Yes, the Craftsman LT2000 drivetrain system utilizes idler pulleys
. These pulleys play a crucial role in maintaining proper tension on the drive belt and ensuring its correct routing and alignment around other components like the engine and transmission pulleys. This helps prevent belt slippage and promotes efficient power transfer to the wheels, according to JustAnswer.
A common type of idler pulley found in lawn mowers, including the LT2000, is the flat idler pulley, designed to work with flat belt systems and provide a smooth surface for belt contact. You may find different variations of idler pulleys depending on the specific model and year of your Craftsman LT2000, as some manuals may show differences in the number and placement of these pulleys.
If you are experiencing issues with belt slippage or improper tensioning on your LT2000, it's recommended to consult the mower's manual for the correct belt routing diagram and inspect the idler pulleys for smooth rotation and
#37
J
JimP2014
If the spring is not at the correct tension: Loosen the jam nut on the linkage rod. Adjust the other nut to achieve the desired spring compression (e.g., 1 1/2 inches).
Retighten the jam nut: to secure the adjustment.
Hello I got to the part where I'm going to try and adjust the ground drive break the regular brake that stops the riding mower + when I took off the right rear wheel the configuration I got doesn't even look like this there is no jam nut or the other bolt it's just cotter pin that holds a spring that goes back to where the brake disc area is so I can't tell there is no adjustment maybe you have to bend this spring that hooks into where the disc brake rotor plate is I don't got it does anybody know this. Also when I was talking about this clanging noise when you put your foot on the brake it has to do with that metal linkage rod near the right rear wheel you can just move it back and forth and it makes a clanging noise it's like loose so when the brake is at rest I would think that linkage should not be moving dss back towards the rear wheels and up towards the front wheels it slides back and forth and the horizontal plane in the horizontal plane like how do you tighten that up I think I should start there?
Thanks,
Jiin
J
JimP2014
3. Adjust the Linkage:I just wanted to mention if it is a brake related issue, this guy created a pretty amazing video on the topic, I am endorsing it but I have no clue who he is.
Jim
If the spring is not at the correct tension: Loosen the jam nut on the linkage rod. Adjust the other nut to achieve the desired spring compression (e.g., 1 1/2 inches).
Retighten the jam nut: to secure the adjustment.
Hello I got to the part where I'm going to try and adjust the ground drive break the regular brake that stops the riding mower + when I took off the right rear wheel the configuration I got doesn't even look like this there is no jam nut or the other bolt it's just cotter pin that holds a spring that goes back to where the brake disc area is so I can't tell there is no adjustment maybe you have to bend this spring that hooks into where the disc brake rotor plate is I don't got it does anybody know this. Also when I was talking about this clanging noise when you put your foot on the brake it has to do with that metal linkage rod near the right rear wheel you can just move it back and forth and it makes a clanging noise it's like loose so when the brake is at rest I would think that linkage should not be moving dss back towards the rear wheels and up towards the front wheels it slides back and forth and the horizontal plane in the horizontal plane like how do you tighten that up I think I should start there?
Thanks,
Jiin
#38
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
3. Adjust the Linkage:
If the spring is not at the correct tension: Loosen the jam nut on the linkage rod. Adjust the other nut to achieve the desired spring compression (e.g., 1 1/2 inches).
Retighten the jam nut: to secure the adjustment.
Hello I got to the part where I'm going to try and adjust the ground drive break the regular brake that stops the riding mower + when I took off the right rear wheel the configuration I got doesn't even look like this there is no jam nut or the other bolt it's just cotter pin that holds a spring that goes back to where the brake disc area is so I can't tell there is no adjustment maybe you have to bend this spring that hooks into where the disc brake rotor plate is I don't got it does anybody know this. Also when I was talking about this clanging noise when you put your foot on the brake it has to do with that metal linkage rod near the right rear wheel you can just move it back and forth and it makes a clanging noise it's like loose so when the brake is at rest I would think that linkage should not be moving dss back towards the rear wheels and up towards the front wheels it slides back and forth and the horizontal plane in the horizontal plane like how do you tighten that up I think I should start there?
Thanks,
Jiin
Attachments
#40
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Maybe I answered my own question just get either a shorter spring or the same size spring assuming that spring is so old that it's no good anymore does that sound right it's the only thing I could come up with?Part 159 is the cotter pin and then there's a washer behind it that is part 15