Grinding noise or metal sound when blade engaged

[JimP2014]

Freddie I will I have done that a dozen times or more and here is what I know:

I have a brand new 'pretty' red colored belt that got a black stripe right away. I have had the entire deck away from the riding mower at least 6 times. I can't figure it out. The black stripe is on the outside of the belt, not the inside from what I can tell.

I am getting these today:

532196106 Husqvarna Idler Pulley with 532177968 Idler Pulley Replaces 532197379 Husqvarna Idler Pulley, 196106 Idler Pulley Craftsman, 197379 177968 193197 for Husqvarna Z254 YTH20K46 Mowers.​

Sears refers to one as:
#36 from deck diagram
"Flat idler pulley
Part #197379

The other pulley is this one:
#145 from deck diagram
Mower deck diagram
Lawn tractor blade idler pulley
Part #193197
Replaced by #532177968

Whatever that means but the bottom line is 2 new pulleys. I already have 2 new spindles and 1 red 100.25" x 5/8" belt.

I am reprinting this below, I found a few weeks ago. I think I need to someone else to look at this machine in person.

From Google AI search:
"A black stripe on the outside of a brand-new mower deck belt typically indicates
friction and potential overheating due to a misalignment or obstruction in the belt system.
Here are the most likely causes:

• Belt rubbing against a belt guide or part of the mower deck: Misaligned idler pulleys, worn or bent deck mounts, or improper belt installation can cause the belt to rub against something it shouldn't. This friction generates heat and can leave a black mark on the belt's surface.
• Damaged or seized pulley/idler bearings: When a pulley or idler's bearings wear out, it can cause the component to wobble, not spin freely, or even seize, increasing friction with the belt. This can also result in black marks or even black, stringy material coming from the pulley/idler area.
• Incorrect belt tension: While proper tension prevents slipping, overtightening can also cause rubbing and premature belt damage.

What to do:

• Turn off the mower and disconnect the spark plug wire for safety.
• Visually inspect the entire belt system for any signs of rubbing or misalignment, including belt guides, pulleys, and the mower deck itself.
• Check if all pulleys spin freely and don't wobble or have excessive play.
• Ensure the belt is correctly routed around all pulleys and idlers according to the manufacturer's diagram.
• Check the belt tension according to your mower's manual. A belt should be taut but have a little bit of give.

Important Safety Note: Always ensure the mower is turned off and the spark plug wire is disconnected before performing any inspections or maintenance on the belt system.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

i would make sure the blade brakes aren't contacting the spindles when in the engaged position.

 

[jes_in_sac]

My very old LT1000 gets a lot of hard use cutting weeds on my rough 5 acres, and has been modified and repaired often... but that old Kohler 16.5hp engine keeps on chugging. I've lost count on the number of spindles I've replaced [usually when I hit something hard hidden in the weeds], along with bearings. The easiest is to pull the desk off and check every component, and lube where needed... every spring, brakes, blades, spindles and pulleys. It only takes 5 min to pull the whole deck off. Be careful using WD-40, as it will gum up. I prefer dry lube or SuperLube synthetic Teflon grease. I've had spindle housings crack or break, springs break or come loose, brakes rubbing, engagement cable loosen or break, and pulleys loosen and slip on the spline. They are extremely durable and easy to work on, but will wear and break. At lease parts are cheap and easy to get for them... and I've had no problem with the aftermarket parts for them. And I always keep a spare deck belt or two. A belt that is ready to go or stretched will make things bounce around. The grinding noise has usually been brakes dragging when they didn't release properly because something was preventing it, and the brake pad material was gone. I ending up removing a section of pad from some old disc brake pads from the car and using JB Weld to replace the pad material on the deck brakes.

 

[JimP2014]

i would make sure the blade brakes aren't contacting the spindles when in the engaged position.

I did look at that a wek ago. But I was actually thinking about looking at that again today, you convinced me. I actually only have one right now it is the blade brake for the left spindle. Which is brand new spindle from yesterday. The blade brake for that is spindle is brand new from say 3 weeks agao.

 

[JimP2014]

My very old LT1000 gets a lot of hard use cutting weeds on my rough 5 acres, and has been modified and repaired often... but that old Kohler 16.5hp engine keeps on chugging. I've lost count on the number of spindles I've replaced [usually when I hit something hard hidden in the weeds], along with bearings. The easiest is to pull the desk off and check every component, and lube where needed... every spring, brakes, blades, spindles and pulleys. It only takes 5 min to pull the whole deck off. Be careful using WD-40, as it will gum up. I prefer dry lube or SuperLube synthetic Teflon grease. I've had spindle housings crack or break, springs break or come loose, brakes rubbing, engagement cable loosen or break, and pulleys loosen and slip on the spline. They are extremely durable and easy to work on, but will wear and break. At lease parts are cheap and easy to get for them... and I've had no problem with the aftermarket parts for them. And I always keep a spare deck belt or two. A belt that is ready to go or stretched will make things bounce around. The grinding noise has usually been brakes dragging when they didn't release properly because something was preventing it, and the brake pad material was gone. I ending up removing a section of pad from some old disc brake pads from the car and using JB Weld to replace the pad material on the deck brakes.

I think removing the deck at least 10 times, so far I got it down to under 3 mins. I remove the chute guard, place an old air matress below the deck remove the pins ( 5 of then really quick no pliers needed ), slide the deck towards the left side and sort of angle it so I don't have to remove the cable and then lean it against the left side front tire mostly.

The belt is 7 days old and first time out ended up with black stripe around the outside of it.

 

[JimP2014]

I think removing the deck at least 10 times, so far I got it down to under 3 mins. I remove the chute guard, place an old air matress below the deck remove the pins ( 5 of then really quick no pliers needed ), slide the deck towards the left side and sort of angle it so I don't have to remove the cable and then lean it against the left side front tire mostly.

The belt is 7 days old and first time out ended up with black stripe around the outside of it.

So I made the clutch cable tighter, and that lever slide to engage the blades happens now without any noise. I know better not say this actually, cuz the next time out the tractor blows up. But maybe I can say, I think your were on to something with respect to the blade brake making contact with the spindle's pulley. As you slide the mower deck lever say 1" the blade brake needs to move away from the pulley say 1/32". I am just making these numbers up but the point is when the pto lever is all the way as far as it can go and this is from my machine the blade brake is maybe 1/2" away from the pulley right now. The brake is on the RHS. I have all the hardware for brakes plus 2 new pulleys coming today. So if I think I can get everything together without breaking something else, I might try. I changed strategy and for the slide bracket I went extreme tight and saw the clearance and then backed it off so now the bolt is at 3/4 position, full position would be where the pto lever would be almost impossible to move. But now when I cut there is other noise so I stop the machine and the noise seems to go away. Maybe it is something else like the axles or the wheels on the mower deck. I am not positive about this it still might be deck related.

Jim

 

[Scrubcadet10]

So I made the clutch cable tighter, and that lever slide to engage the blades happens now without any noise. I know better not say this actually, cuz the next time out the tractor blows up. But maybe I can say, I think your were on to something with respect to the blade brake making contact with the spindle's pulley. As you slide the mower deck lever say 1" the blade brake needs to move away from the pulley say 1/32". I am just making these numbers up but the point is when the pto lever is all the way as far as it can go and this is from my machine the blade brake is maybe 1/2" away from the pulley right now. The brake is on the RHS. I have all the hardware for brakes plus 2 new pulleys coming today. So if I think I can get everything together without breaking something else, I might try. I changed strategy and for the slide bracket I went extreme tight and saw the clearance and then backed it off so now the bolt is at 3/4 position, full position would be where the pto lever would be almost impossible to move. But now when I cut there is other noise so I stop the machine and the noise seems to go away. Maybe it is something else like the axles or the wheels on the mower deck. I am not positive about this it still might be deck related.

Jim

Noise while driving could also be ground drive belt idlers

 

[JimP2014]

Noise while driving could also be ground drive belt idlers

"Noise while driving could also be ground drive belt idlers" < --- thanks for this, they are most likely original from 15yrs ago or more, I got the machine for free maybe 8 yrs ago.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

"Noise while driving could also be ground drive belt idlers" < --- thanks for this, they are most likely original from 15yrs ago or more, I got the machine for free maybe 8 yrs ago.

a quick check for this is to press the clutch/brake pedal in.

 

[JimP2014]

a quick check for this is to press the clutch/brake pedal in.

I appreciate this additional comment about the break it's interesting because it's like you just slightly take your foot off the brake and the thing shoots off like a jackrabbit it's like I'm trying to figure out how to tone it down a bit which might be a separate issue I don't know. But here's what I can say so I drove it around the yard with no mower deck engaged + I didn't really hear the noise that much it's constant like a ringing noise which seems to only occur when the blades are engaged but it's not as bad as it was say yesterday. It also feels like when I do engage blades the mower engine is working a little harder than normal when the mower deck is perfectly fine I don't know for sure on this but I'll know if I blow another head gasket this is true.

Jim