The guy "selling parts" has his own repair shop right there with at least 10 rebuilt mowers for sale on site and has been doing this for 20+ years. I cannt see any of you on this post to tell that you are anything more than posters.
Try giving details when you post "rebuild the carbs" I got the downloads that you and bert both sent and appreciated that. However, you have not been comprehensive in you explanation of what to do. As far as I know I did rebuild the carbs according the
info you guys sent. If I didn't something wrong I wouldn't know it.
I am done with this site as well.
bye bye bye
Jag,
This site has more professional techs on it than any other on the entire web.
I know this because when I bought the repair run 12 years ago there was a big learning curve so I sought out and signed up to over 30 different forums for mowers + more fr chain saws
FWIW I have been into BSA motorcycles since I was 14 & that was 55 years ago
I have engines from 1912 through to 1973 that all run perfectly so I would put myself in the quite knowledgeable category.
OTOH all you need to know about me is what is typed on the screen because this could all be BS
Anything on the web should always be taken at face value and personally evaluated by yourself .
You yourself knew enough to appreciate the "it will use fuel faster than can pass the needle valve when running " was total garbage.
Should that be the case eventually the engine would stop because it was using fuel faster than the carb could refill so the fuel level would start to drop in the float bowl which would make the engine run lean , thus overheat & sieze at the worst or surge so badly it could not be used .
There are hundreds of back yarders who have almost no idea about what they are doing , getting mowers to run then selling a pile of problems to unsuspecting smucks who end up on places like this trying o work out why the mower that seemed to run fine in the shop failed to work a week latter in their yard
Now from our point of view, some of us will happily write pages of information to explain something if a poster asks for it .
All it takes is an "I don't really understand what you are saying and we will expand "
However none of us are going to rewrite the entire engine repair manual 5 times a day so the assumption is if we are not asked to expand then you have understood .
We all know good places to get information from where what is happening is explained quite clearly.
The outdoorpowerinfo site is one such place .
HAving reread your post I would guess than mister back yard bodger slapped a bit of silicon on the old head gasket and reused it and that has now failed internally which is pressureizing the crankcase and causing oil to blow out the crankcase vent that eventually will be overwhelmed
So you end up with 2 problems
1) reduced fuel to burn in the cylinder because 1/2 of it has been pumped into the crankcase
2) oil being pumped into the filter housing which gets into the air filter effectivly blocking the airflow through it
The above causes oil deposits to burn on the spark plug which then makes it short down the insulator nose
And as for you assumption that your backyard bodger must know what he is talking about because he has 10 mowers for sale .
There were a bunch of school kids who used to make mower repair videos at a local recycling depot
They had less than no idea what they were doing but they made a lot of videos .https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/category/briggs-stratton-tutorials/ .
About 1/3 were acceptable , 1/3 were plain wrong and the final 1/3 were dangerous to either the operator or the mower .
But these were so well made and were so successful that they then started selling engine parts on line
THis business was so successful that it paid their way through college before they sold it to a local mower parts retailer
And to prove this there was one video where they "fixed" a mower that had a worn carb valve so was running lean and over reving by stuffing foam into the air supply which effectivly made a choke which this engine did not have.
I have repaired at least a dozen of these engines with this "fix" in them.
The proper repair is either to replace the worn part or fit a shim to restore the running clearances .
Now I have assumed that you are a grown up adult so you have to decide who will provide you with the best information
You should have taken the mower back & got a warranty repair if Mr "I fix mowers & resell them is so good " or a refund or an exchange
You can go to any one of a dozen pay for information sites & pay for the same information that you got here for free ( yes they contact me regularly to sign up with them ) or you can go to dozens of other sites .
It is a free world so you are free to do as you which
Just don't start complaining that we have done the wrong thing by you .
We have done the right thing but if you can not communicate with us we can not elp as all we have to work with is the words you type .
