gas in oil Tecumseh OV691EA-600826C

jag66

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Finally got the engine to run more than just on starter fluid. Replaced main jet rubber o rings, cut off pins of the anti kickback solenoid. Also replaced fuel pump and installed fuel shutoff inline.
Now runs 3-4 minutes, then shuts off. Restarts and does the same thing. After several restarts it started puking oil/gas out the breather tube at the front of the engine. Checked breather reed valve, has excess clearance(1/4") from boss. Trying to order one, with filter.
Where is gas in crankcase coming from? Dipstick does not show overfill and gas tank does not appear to be lower on fuel.
Previously had gas in crankcase(assume it was shot diaphragm in fuel pump). Changed oil but not filter(neighbor too cheap). Could the gas we are now seeing have come from being in the filter from the prior episode?
 

Rivets

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Please reread the thread you posted awhile back. Both Bert and I you info on what needs to be done, because all three of your threads are going to get very confusing, as they all deal with the same problem.
 

jag66

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That is why I indicated that "Finally got the engine to run more than just on starter fluid. Replaced main jet rubber o rings." Basically rebuilt the carbs, as you guys indicated, as well as dissabling the anti kickback solenoids which then resulted in the engine finally running on its own for a few minutes, before puking up oil out of the breather hose at the front of the engine and then with the resultant gas in oil, again, problem. According the local parts guy we got the carb parts from, the engine will burn all the gas it is fed while running and not let it into the crankcase since we have a fuel cutoff switch installed now as well as a new fuel pump, gas cannt get into the engine when it is shut off.
Yes it is very confusing for someone who knows nothing about lawnmower, or other engines, that is why I am asking questions.
 

sgkent

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what they are saying is stop creating new threads for the same problem. You will only make it harder on yourself. Keep the chain of events in one thread.
 

Rivets

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Your local parts guy has no idea what he is talking about. The shut off solenoid only shuts off fuel to the main nozzle. The float needle shuts off fuel to the carb. If you are getting fuel in the crankcase the float needle is not shutting off the fuel.
 

slomo

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I'm confused. Where is part 1 to this novel?
 

sgkent

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I'm confused. Where is part 1 to this novel?

 

jag66

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Your local parts guy has no idea what he is talking about. The shut off solenoid only shuts off fuel to the main nozzle. The float needle shuts off fuel to the carb. If you are getting fuel in the crankcase the float needle is not shutting off the fuel.
Thanks for the reply. I specifically asked him what if the float needle wasn't closing completely. He said as long as the engine was running it would burn gas faster than could be pumped in. Sounded funny to me which is why I posted to this site. To me, if he was right then engines could never run rich or flood right? I dont know much about engines in general, I spent almost a week online researching how the carbs on this engine work just to try to understand what I was being told was wrong. I ended up cutting the pins off of the shutoff solenoids(saw that on another site post) and installed a fuel shutoff valve inline between the fuel filter and fuel pump. Even though the solenoids seemed to work, ie pulled the float bowls, unscrewed the solenoids, reconnected to the connectors and turned the switch, pins retracted when activated, when reassembled, we couldn't get the engine to run with more than just starting fluid( a few seconds) until I cut the solenoid pins, effectively shutting them off permanently, which is why the fuel shutoff was installed. Once they were permanently disengaged we got the engine to run longer. Now trying to run down other problems as noted.
 

jag66

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what they are saying is stop creating new threads for the same problem. You will only make it harder on yourself. Keep the chain of events in one thread.
Thanks for that. Thought I was starting thread on a new problem .
 

Rivets

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You came to this forum for help, but refuse to listen to the experienced techs here. That is up to you, but was far as I’m concerned this is my last post in this thread. You would rather listen to DIY guys and watch their videos to do bandaid repairs than fix the problem which is your choice. Cutting off plungers on good solenoids, installing inline shutoffs, you did nothing to solve your hard starting problem. I’ll end with this, you need to clean and rebuild the carb with a new float needle and seat, set float level properly, and check to make sure your choke is closing properly on start up. Good luck with your research and I hope you have enough money left to do the job properly. Bye, Bye, Bye. Maybe talk to and listen to a mechanic instead of a guy selling parts.
 
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