Fuel

[RevB]

Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weedeater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weedeater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eated earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-ethynol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and time!

Assessment of the Effectiveness of Three Aftermarket Gasoline Fuel Stabilizers in Preventing Gum Formation and Loss of Oxidation Stability

Fuel stabilizers have long been marketed to consumers to prevent oxidation and gum formation. In the past, gasoline storage for long periods of time was commonly limited to off-road equipment that was used infrequently. Cars and trucks that were driven regularly consumed the fuel in their tanks rapi

www.sae.org

Again, no to "stabilizers" unless you insist on letting the fuel sit for over 12 months....unlikely in most all cases.

 

[RevB]

If you are near or in a state that sells E0 at the pump, that's the way to go. It's high $4 a gallon around here in NY, NH, VT, and ME.

Totally unnecessary unless you are running equipment more than 40+ years old whose rubber components have not been changed to Buna N or hoses made in the stone age. And every new piece of gas powered vehicle has been changed over since at least 1979, 3 years after ethanol was re-introduced (used to be run in the 30s and 40s....WW2 stuff) into the market in 1976 and problems with rubber components was uncovered. Again.

 

[RevB]

Yes, this has been a very controversial topic over the years.
There are two aspects to this issue: personal / professional experience and chemistry.
Simply put, experience has demonstrated that ethanol gas does damage small engine components.
Next, the corrosive capacity of ethanol in the small engine system is well documented.
I'm not going to elaborate on these topics....you all have read and sometimes have experienced the negative effects of ethanol gas.

Several years ago I switched to non-ethanol gas in all of my small engines.
NO problems since...all start easily, even after sitting over the winter.
I have documented one thig. I used to have to stop mowing to add more ethanol gas to my push mower before I finished cutting my lawn.
Switched to non-ethanol and now I cut my complete lawn and still have gas left over in the tank.

No need to discuss this further. We all know the political and economical concerns that drive this.

I will continue to pay a little more to use non-ethanol gas for all of my 2 and 4 cycle needs.
In the 'long run', it is really more economical. The few $'s that I save at the pump doesn't compare the the problems that result and the personal time involved.

Your engine, your time, your money. Your Call.

...and your responsibility to provide those SAE links to prove your contention. Not taking info or opinion from Billy Bob's gasoline stories.

 

[RevB]

Gas with ethanol will create water so my suggestion would be to use a fuel additive and quality synthetic engine oil.

"Create" ....science matters and this isn't it.

 

[RevB]

I find that the 2-cycle small engines such as those on a String Trimmer, Leaf Blower, Mini Mantis Tiller, Chainsaw, and Edgers do need Ethanol-free Gasoline. If regular gasoline is used, the metering diaphragm and fuel pump diaphragm in the Carburetor will lose their flexibility. Corrosion can also result which requires a new Carburetor to fix. Many larger engines do OK on regular gasoline as long as there isn't a bunch of rubber parts in the Carburetor and. My Honda HR-215 Mower made from the late 80's to early 90's still has the original Carburetor. The regular gasoline absorbs water (ethanol). When it cannot absorb any more, than you have water sitting in the gas tank and Carburetor. This will corrode the Carburetors. So when the piece of equipment is parked for the season, run it out of gasoline and it will be fine. I like it when People use regular gasoline and don't drain it or leave it in a 2-cycle Engine since I repair small engines. I see dollar signs.

Bullshit. Every piece of equipment 4)+ years old has already been converted to bunaN or other ethanol proof materials.
Prove your "corrosion" story with links to SAE reports.

 

[Craiger]

Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weedeater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weedeater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eated earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-ethynol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and time!

Being a chemist I know a bit about EtOH (chemist's term for ethanol) in gas. Here's a quick summary.
1) It's added to regular gas mainly to keep the corn farmers happy and profitable. not to mention Cargill etc. Great example of how powerful a lobbyist can be.
2) This is simple chemistry. A gallon of EtOH has less energy than a gallon of gas, therefore your fuel economy will suffer. Some older fuel systems have components which are damaged by EtOH mainly because of the water it attracts.
3) As for small engines, I am in an area where EtOH free gas is a lot more expensive by a dollar or more extra so I use gas with 10% EtOH in my small engines. It runs fine when relatively fresh.
4) I agree with others who post that you'll be OK if you don't let the EtOH fuel sit in your engine for too long. Never over a few months. If you can afford it, get the EtOH free stuff, it's your money and it can't hurt anything. I'd use it if it wasn't so expensive here. Price gouging?
5) Fuel stabilizer is helpful but won't prevent the gas from absorbing moisture from the atmosphere. Beware if you live in a humid area. Don't buy too much gas at one time. Buy from a busy station.
6) To avoid off season storage problems I always run my engines ouf of fuel before storing. This has worked for me for over 50 years.
Happy mowing, snowblowing etc.

 

[RickBob]

Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weedeater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weedeater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eated earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-ethynol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and time!

Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weedeater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weedeater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eated earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-ethanol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and !time!

I had a Quickie saw that I was always having the carburetor worked on. 12 years ago I started using Ethanol Shield. I have not had any fuel related problems since. I don't drain the fuel in the winter either.

 

[Boomer49]

Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weedeater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weedeater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eated earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-ethynol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and time!

 

[Boomer49]

Is it really worth the extra price (Over a dollar a gallon extra) to get ethanol free fuel for mowers? I have a 18 hp Briggs & Stratton engine engine on my riding mower, I have a small small push mower and I have a 2-cycle weedeater. I’m in south Alabama, 65 miles from the coast. The past several years, I’ve cranked up the weedeater during the off growing season just to polish up what I may not have weed-eated earlier – just to run it for a little bit. I may or may not do that for the push mower. The riding mower is used to drag limbs to a burn pile so it gets cranked every so often in the ‘cold’ season. We’re not long out of growing season and we don’t have really cold winters.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do different or is there just no reason for the non-ethynol fuel at my location.
I appreciate your thoughts and time!

This is from Briggs & Stratton "

What is the best small engine or lawn mower gas?​

Fuel for your lawn mower or outdoor power equipment must meet these requirements:

• Clean and fresh - fuel can begin to deteriorate in as little as 30 days
• A minimum of 87 octane/87 Anti-Knock Index (AKI) / 91 Research Octane Number (RON); If operating at high altitude, see below
• Gasoline with up to 10% ethanol (gasohol) or up to 15% methyl tertiary butyl ether (MTBE), is acceptable. Some fuel stations are now selling gasoline with up to 15% ethanol. This E15 product is not recommended or approved for use in small engines.
• A canned fuel product can also be used. This fuel combines ethanol-free unleaded gasoline with a fuel stabilizer to prolong the life of the fuel.
• Fuel Reid Vapor Pressure (RVP) rating, is equally as important as the octane rating. Gasoline refineries raise and lowers fuel RVP ratings (gasoline's volatility) seasonally to account for the differences in temperature. Note: low RVP fuel will cause hard or no start conditions in cold weather conditions.
• Summer Fuel = low RVP rating
• Winter Fuel = high RVP rating
• ** This rating varies from state to state also **

Note: LOOK BEFORE YOU PUMP! Do not use unapproved gasoline, such as E15 and E85. Do not mix oil in gasoline or modify the engine to run on alternate fuels. Use of unapproved fuels will damage the engine components, which will not be covered under warranty.

 

[rivercityman]

From a Web search:
Based on the search results, here's a comprehensive answer regarding ethanol-free gasoline versus regular gasoline for lawnmower engines:

Benefits of Ethanol-Free Gasoline​

Ethanol-free gasoline is generally considered better for lawnmower engines and other small engine equipment for several reasons:

1. Reduced corrosion: Ethanol can be corrosive to metal parts, including carburetors, which can lead to engine damage over time[1][2].
2. Better stability: Ethanol-free gas has a longer shelf life and is less likely to degrade when stored for extended periods[1].
3. Improved performance: Many users report easier starting, more consistent running, and fewer carburetor issues when using ethanol-free gas[3].
4. Less moisture absorption: Ethanol attracts water, which can lead to engine problems. Ethanol-free gas is less likely to absorb moisture from the air[2].

Drawbacks of Ethanol-Blended Gasoline (E10)​

Regular gasoline, which typically contains 10% ethanol (E10), can cause several issues in small engines:

1. Component degradation: Ethanol can degrade plastic and rubber components in the engine[2].
2. Higher operating temperatures: E10 can cause engines to run hotter, potentially leading to increased wear[2].
3. Carburetor problems: Ethanol can lead to gumming and clogging of carburetors, especially when equipment is stored for long periods[3].

Conflicting Information​

It's worth noting that there is some conflicting information regarding the use of ethanol-blended fuels in small engines:

1. Manufacturer recommendations: Many small engine manufacturers have designed their products to run on E10 fuel[5].
2. Water absorption: While some sources claim ethanol increases water-related issues, others argue that E10 can actually help prevent free water formation in the fuel system[5].
3. Fuel shelf life: Some sources suggest that E10 has a minimum shelf life of six months, which may be sufficient for many users[5].

Conclusion​

While there are arguments on both sides, the majority of evidence suggests that ethanol-free gasoline is preferable for lawnmower engines and other small engine equipment. However, if ethanol-free gas is not readily available or is significantly more expensive, using E10 with proper maintenance and storage practices can still be acceptable[3][4].

Recommendations​

1. If available and affordable, use ethanol-free gasoline in your lawnmower.
2. If using E10, consider adding a fuel stabilizer, especially if the equipment will be stored for extended periods[3].
3. Regardless of fuel type, follow proper storage and maintenance procedures, such as running the engine dry or filling the tank completely before long-term storage[5].
4. Consult your lawnmower's manual for specific fuel recommendations from the manufacturer.

By following these guidelines, you can help ensure the longevity and performance of your lawnmower engine, regardless of the fuel type you choose.

Citations:
[1] https://www.bellperformance.com/blo...n-your-lawn-mower-or-not-that-is-the-question
[2] https://www.consumerreports.org/cro...ethanol-can-make-small-engines-fail/index.htm
[3]

https://www.reddit.com/r/lawnmowers/comments/16bua5i

[4] https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/is-ethanol-free-gas-worth-it.479827/
[5] https://www.mncorn.org/2022/03/01/setting-the-record-on-using-ethanol-in-small-engines/