Blades Frozen Bolt

[KyGolfer]

That is yet another advantage of the Scag mower. If you were in the bind with a mower that the bolt was threaded in from the bottom you would replace a spindle. ON the Scag you can cut the bolt into on the nut side which is on top of the deck. We have done it and be running again in 15 to 20 minutes. We haul a 4 1/2" side grinder on the truck with a this cutter blade on it and have a small generator and also carry an extra blade bolt and nut. Scag mowers have so many advantages over their competition.

Thanks again everyone. Have not had a chance to work on it again. I do appreciate all the comments though.

 

[qrtrhrs]

I removed the blades to sharpen for the first time on my new TTII the other day. Whoa! The torque spec is 75 ft lb when replacing but it took a lot more grunt than that to loosen them.

As someone suggested, brace the blade with a block of wood against the deck. I did that then put a 1/2 inch drive flex head ratchet with a three foot piece of pipe on the nut. I turned it just a bit then put my 3/4 drive on the bolt head. Still took some grunt but turning just the nut seemed to be better than just going at it with both ratchets from the start.

I was working solo but I would think in your case an extra set of hands would be helpful?

 

[tigercat]

If you don't have a cutting wheel, maybe use a drill and drill out the nut, then strike it with a chisel to snap the nut apart and off the 5/8 bolt.

 

[DK35vince]

That is yet another advantage of the Scag mower. If you were in the bind with a mower that the bolt was threaded in from the bottom you would replace a spindle. ON the Scag you can cut the bolt into on the nut side which is on top of the deck. We have done it and be running again in 15 to 20 minutes. We haul a 4 1/2" side grinder on the truck with a this cutter blade on it and have a small generator and also carry an extra blade bolt and nut. Scag mowers have so many advantages over their competition.

I guess.
In 40 years of mowing the lawn with blades bolted from the bottom on multiple different mowers I have never had that happen.
I spin them off and back on with an air gun = done.

 

[jekjr]

I removed the blades to sharpen for the first time on my new TTII the other day. Whoa! The torque spec is 75 ft lb when replacing but it took a lot more grunt than that to loosen them.

As someone suggested, brace the blade with a block of wood against the deck. I did that then put a 1/2 inch drive flex head ratchet with a three foot piece of pipe on the nut. I turned it just a bit then put my 3/4 drive on the bolt head. Still took some grunt but turning just the nut seemed to be better than just going at it with both ratchets from the start.

I was working solo but I would think in your case an extra set of hands would be helpful?

I bought a new Tiger Cat II earlier this year and it was that way on the first blade change. We had to replace the bolt when we got it off. Since it was brand new I did not cut the bolt I was in town with the mower and let the dealer get that one off.

 

[jekjr]

I guess.
In 40 years of mowing the lawn with blades bolted from the bottom on multiple different mowers I have never had that happen.
I spin them off and back on with an air gun = done.

I have seen more than one that had done something similar and when they finally came loose it messed the threads up in the spindle. Then the whole spindle had to be changed.

 

[JGGMC]

I only have used a long wrench and had to push on the wrench with my foot on one bolt. I have never even had an impact wrench. lol

 

[shiftsuper175607]

I only have used a long wrench and had to push on the wrench with my foot on one bolt. I have never even had an impact wrench. lol

Well, you are a lady (by picture)
We are just dumb, weak men.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I guess.
In 40 years of mowing the lawn with blades bolted from the bottom on multiple different mowers I have never had that happen.
I spin them off and back on with an air gun = done.

It is not a problem if you regularly remove the blades to sharpen them nor is it a problem with mowers that have a square, diamond, toothed blade holes or multiple bolts
On blades with plain round holes the the load on the blade resists the spindle rotation so the blade bolt tightens up in use.
More so if you rough mow, hit a lot of branches , roots or rocks.
One of my commercial customers has a council contract to mow the road verges in a semi rural area.
He mows over whatever is there, building waste, car parts , road kill, household garbage and his blades regularly need to be cut off.
OTOH the mower he uses for house yards is never a problem.

 

[jekjr]

It is not a problem if you regularly remove the blades to sharpen them nor is it a problem with mowers that have a square, diamond, toothed blade holes or multiple bolts
On blades with plain round holes the the load on the blade resists the spindle rotation so the blade bolt tightens up in use.
More so if you rough mow, hit a lot of branches , roots or rocks.
One of my commercial customers has a council contract to mow the road verges in a semi rural area.
He mows over whatever is there, building waste, car parts , road kill, household garbage and his blades regularly need to be cut off.
OTOH the mower he uses for house yards is never a problem.

Exactly