Export thread

Help. Anyone have any ideas on how I can get a frozen bolt lose from my zero turn blade. I Have a 61a Wildcat. I accidently hit a water meter cover, and it bent my blade. ( Also broke my deck belt. Had spare for that.) I have an extra set of blades. But, since I hit the cover and bent the blade, the bolt on top won't break lose. Used breaker bar, hammered it even. Tighter than a …. well, we all know what that is. Thought about trying to grind it off with a angle grinder. That would take forever, I Think. Always thought that heat from a torch would help. I only have small propane soldering torch. How hot would it need to get , if this is possible? Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

You don't have any of the thin cutting blades for your angle grinder?

That is what I would do on the blade side...it will ruin the blade..I guess it is the one bent already.

I would angle in just where the bolt head and blade meet and not cut too deep...keep angle flat as possible.

You could try heat on your nut...watch out for fire.

another thought..
You can't be sure it will come out the top...hopefully it would.

My theory on heating is you are trying to heat the nut to expand it...before the bolt gets hot and expands... this creates a relief of pressure.

have tools ready to try and loosen.
Do you have and air impact?

shiftsuper175607 said:

You don't have any of the thin cutting blades for your angle grinder?

That is what I would do on the blade side...it will ruin the blade..I guess it is the one bent already.

I would angle in just where the bolt head and blade meet and not cut too deep...keep angle flat as possible.

You could try heat on your nut...watch out for fire.

another thought..
You can't be sure it will come out the top...hopefully it would.

My theory on heating is you are trying to heat the nut to expand it...before the bolt gets hot and expands... this creates a relief of pressure.

have tools ready to try and loosen.
Do you have and air impact?

Click to expand...

Sorry, no impact air tools. No thin cutter blades for angle grinder. Just have a Dremel tool for small things. Thanks for your input!

Block the blade so it will not turn. Take a wrench put it on top so it won't turn. Take a half inch breaker bar with pipe on it to break it loose or the other way around.

The bolts self tighten in use and even more when you smack into something hard.
For on site jobs I have 6' length of rectangle hollow bar that slips over the blade then a 3/4 drive socket & breaker bar which Is held onto the bolt hed with a car jack the it is a case of some grunt.
In the workshop when one won't shift with the impact gun it is out with the angle grinder & off with the head.
Never ever had one that was thread bound and usually when the head is knocked off the bolt can be screwed out by hand.
The top nut does not need to be touched.

I have taken a wafer thin blade on a 4 1/2" side grinder and cut them off right at the bottom of the nut on tip on more than one occasion. Just make sure you don't cut below the nut. It won't take but a short time to cut it off. Cut it off and if it is bent you might have to tap it out with a hammer and punch. We have had to do this several times over the years.

jekjr said:

I have taken a wafer thin blade on a 4 1/2" side grinder and cut them off right at the bottom of the nut on tip on more than one occasion. Just make sure you don't cut below the nut. It won't take but a short time to cut it off. Cut it off and if it is bent you might have to tap it out with a hammer and punch. We have had to do this several times over the years.

Click to expand...

Thanks everyone for some great ideas. I will inform you all next week on how things turn out. Again, appreciate the comments.

Next week u must be in a dry part of the bluegrass???

Just wanted to mention that if you do have a blade bolt get stuck hard it's a good idea to replace it if you do get it freed up. If you inspect it closely you will usually see chatter marks on the threads. This can cause it to get stuck again.

That is yet another advantage of the Scag mower. If you were in the bind with a mower that the bolt was threaded in from the bottom you would replace a spindle. ON the Scag you can cut the bolt into on the nut side which is on top of the deck. We have done it and be running again in 15 to 20 minutes. We haul a 4 1/2" side grinder on the truck with a this cutter blade on it and have a small generator and also carry an extra blade bolt and nut. Scag mowers have so many advantages over their competition.

jekjr said:

That is yet another advantage of the Scag mower. If you were in the bind with a mower that the bolt was threaded in from the bottom you would replace a spindle. ON the Scag you can cut the bolt into on the nut side which is on top of the deck. We have done it and be running again in 15 to 20 minutes. We haul a 4 1/2" side grinder on the truck with a this cutter blade on it and have a small generator and also carry an extra blade bolt and nut. Scag mowers have so many advantages over their competition.

Click to expand...

Thanks again everyone. Have not had a chance to work on it again. I do appreciate all the comments though.

I removed the blades to sharpen for the first time on my new TTII the other day. Whoa! The torque spec is 75 ft lb when replacing but it took a lot more grunt than that to loosen them.

As someone suggested, brace the blade with a block of wood against the deck. I did that then put a 1/2 inch drive flex head ratchet with a three foot piece of pipe on the nut. I turned it just a bit then put my 3/4 drive on the bolt head. Still took some grunt but turning just the nut seemed to be better than just going at it with both ratchets from the start.

I was working solo but I would think in your case an extra set of hands would be helpful?

If you don't have a cutting wheel, maybe use a drill and drill out the nut, then strike it with a chisel to snap the nut apart and off the 5/8 bolt.

jekjr said:

That is yet another advantage of the Scag mower. If you were in the bind with a mower that the bolt was threaded in from the bottom you would replace a spindle. ON the Scag you can cut the bolt into on the nut side which is on top of the deck. We have done it and be running again in 15 to 20 minutes. We haul a 4 1/2" side grinder on the truck with a this cutter blade on it and have a small generator and also carry an extra blade bolt and nut. Scag mowers have so many advantages over their competition.

Click to expand...

I guess.
In 40 years of mowing the lawn with blades bolted from the bottom on multiple different mowers I have never had that happen.
I spin them off and back on with an air gun = done.

qrtrhrs said:

I removed the blades to sharpen for the first time on my new TTII the other day. Whoa! The torque spec is 75 ft lb when replacing but it took a lot more grunt than that to loosen them.

As someone suggested, brace the blade with a block of wood against the deck. I did that then put a 1/2 inch drive flex head ratchet with a three foot piece of pipe on the nut. I turned it just a bit then put my 3/4 drive on the bolt head. Still took some grunt but turning just the nut seemed to be better than just going at it with both ratchets from the start.

I was working solo but I would think in your case an extra set of hands would be helpful?

Click to expand...

I bought a new Tiger Cat II earlier this year and it was that way on the first blade change. We had to replace the bolt when we got it off. Since it was brand new I did not cut the bolt I was in town with the mower and let the dealer get that one off.

DK35vince said:

I guess.
In 40 years of mowing the lawn with blades bolted from the bottom on multiple different mowers I have never had that happen.
I spin them off and back on with an air gun = done.

Click to expand...

I have seen more than one that had done something similar and when they finally came loose it messed the threads up in the spindle. Then the whole spindle had to be changed.

I only have used a long wrench and had to push on the wrench with my foot on one bolt. I have never even had an impact wrench. lol

JGGMC said:

I only have used a long wrench and had to push on the wrench with my foot on one bolt. I have never even had an impact wrench. lol

Click to expand...

Well, you are a lady (by picture)
We are just dumb, weak men.

DK35vince said:

I guess.
In 40 years of mowing the lawn with blades bolted from the bottom on multiple different mowers I have never had that happen.
I spin them off and back on with an air gun = done.

Click to expand...

It is not a problem if you regularly remove the blades to sharpen them nor is it a problem with mowers that have a square, diamond, toothed blade holes or multiple bolts
On blades with plain round holes the the load on the blade resists the spindle rotation so the blade bolt tightens up in use.
More so if you rough mow, hit a lot of branches , roots or rocks.
One of my commercial customers has a council contract to mow the road verges in a semi rural area.
He mows over whatever is there, building waste, car parts , road kill, household garbage and his blades regularly need to be cut off.
OTOH the mower he uses for house yards is never a problem.

bertsmobile1 said:

It is not a problem if you regularly remove the blades to sharpen them nor is it a problem with mowers that have a square, diamond, toothed blade holes or multiple bolts
On blades with plain round holes the the load on the blade resists the spindle rotation so the blade bolt tightens up in use.
More so if you rough mow, hit a lot of branches , roots or rocks.
One of my commercial customers has a council contract to mow the road verges in a semi rural area.
He mows over whatever is there, building waste, car parts , road kill, household garbage and his blades regularly need to be cut off.
OTOH the mower he uses for house yards is never a problem.

Click to expand...

Exactly

Update on my frozen bolt problem. Tried 3 things. #1 was to use a jack against my breaker bar. Nope. #2 Tried heating and removing. Nope. #3 Tried long pipe over beaker bar, wedging against concrete wall and using the torque from the mower itself. Nope. --- Have come to realization that I need to cut it off. Bought a couple metal cutting wheels for angle grinder. Parts on order. Hopefully I will find time to do this this weekend. Pretty busy though. Will keep everyone informed on progress. Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. It is very much appreciated.

KyGolfer said:

Update on my frozen bolt problem. Tried 3 things. #1 was to use a jack against my breaker bar. Nope. #2 Tried heating and removing. Nope. #3 Tried long pipe over beaker bar, wedging against concrete wall and using the torque from the mower itself. Nope. --- Have come to realization that I need to cut it off. Bought a couple metal cutting wheels for angle grinder. Parts on order. Hopefully I will find time to do this this weekend. Pretty busy though. Will keep everyone informed on progress. Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. It is very much appreciated.

Click to expand...

Wish you were close to me. We could get you going in about 10 minutes. I have the tools on the truck and a spare bolt and nut.

well hes at least in the bluegrass don't know were though so they be close. hello neighbor I haven't had one yet to beat the 3/4 gun yet that one might just be its match tho.

Luffydog said:

well hes at least in the bluegrass don't know were though so they be close. hello neighbor I haven't had one yet to beat the 3/4 gun yet that one might just be its match tho.

Click to expand...

The 3/4 gun might take to off but what is going to happen if you can twist it off is the threads are boing to be balled up in the nut. Wafer blade on a 4 1/2" side grinder and just a few seconds and it will be off.

Just make sure that you are not below the nut or you will cut the top of the spindle off. We did that one time on the first one we cut off. Really didn't do any damage other than the new bolt had more thread sticking out than the rest of them had.

if I had that trouble getting it off it would get replaced anyways. if the ole big dog wont break it loose or my big ole bar then theres always the ole never let me down torch :thumbsup:

Luffydog said:

if I had that trouble getting it off it would get replaced anyways. if the ole big dog wont break it loose or my big ole bar then theres always the ole never let me down torch :thumbsup:

Click to expand...

Still the easiest and fastest way is with the 4 1/2" side grinder with the .045 or what ever it is thick cutter blade on it. It will be through the nut in seconds and it will not produce the heat that the torch does.

Just be sure that you do not cut below the bottom of the nut. Fastest, easiest, safest. Had to do it several times over the years.

IF you could get the nut off the threads on the bolt and nut would be gaulded bad.

Success! Was able to use my angle grinder with thin cutting blade, and cut bolt off from bottom of deck. Ordered a new bolt, nut, and washer, along with new blade. Took a matter of 15 minutes to cut it off. Thank you all for your suggestions and support. This site has saved my ***** a few times. Everyone has been great. Thanks again!

KyGolfer said:

Success! Was able to use my angle grinder with thin cutting blade, and cut bolt off from bottom of deck. Ordered a new bolt, nut, and washer, along with new blade. Took a matter of 15 minutes to cut it off. Thank you all for your suggestions and support. This site has saved my ***** a few times. Everyone has been great. Thanks again!

Click to expand...

THANKS Hell.. we want your First-Born and ALL your Golfing gear !! .. Jus kiddin .. :laughing:..:laughing:

jekjr said:

That is yet another advantage of the Scag mower. If you were in the bind with a mower that the bolt was threaded in from the bottom you would replace a spindle. ON the Scag you can cut the bolt into on the nut side which is on top of the deck. We have done it and be running again in 15 to 20 minutes. We haul a 4 1/2" side grinder on the truck with a this cutter blade on it and have a small generator and also carry an extra blade bolt and nut. Scag mowers have so many advantages over their competition.

Click to expand...

One advantage is... They are insanely expensive.:wink:

SidecarFlip said:

One advantage is... They are insanely expensive.:wink:

Click to expand...

You get what you pay for. My neighbor has a Scag that he cuts a good bit of grass with the t he bought new in 1989. Still runs great with very little done to it in all of those years.

jekjr said:

You get what you pay for. My neighbor has a Scag that he cuts a good bit of grass with the t he bought new in 1989. Still runs great with very little done to it in all of those years.

Click to expand...

I agree. I have a CC M60 Tank with over 1200 hours on the meter and nothing other than routine maintenance and consumables. Probably outlast me.