Exmark Kawasaki FX730V not starting

[Jimmac]

Check the timing key

I’m not sure how to do this?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Remove the finger guard over the flywheel & remove the nut / bolt that retains the flywheel.
You will see a square hole that is 1/2 in the flywheel & 1/2 in the crankshaft
The 2 sides must come together to make a perfect square if not then the flywheel has slipped on the crankshaft & the spark is happening at the wrong time
It only has to be a few thou out & the engine will run fine WFO but be near impossible to start

 

[Gord Baker]

When you turn the key to ON, you should hear a faint 'click' from the front of the engine beneath the Float Bowl.
It is the Fuel Shut Off Solenoid opening. If you don't hear that, check further. There is a multi wire connection under the 'dash' near the Ignition switch. Sometimes there is a disconnect there. Undo the connector and inspect then spray with Electrical contact cleaner. Listen again for the click. If you don't hear it, it won't start.
If it does not fire when spraying Quick Start directly into the carb while cranking, it is an electrical problem. If it starts and then shuts off it is a Fuel problem. Did you replace the Fuel Pump? Try taking a deep breath and blowing into the Fuel Tank, hold pressure as long as you can. Replace Fuel Filter.

 

[RevB]

I have a Lazer Z with the Kawasaki FX730 motor. It was surging and stalling frequently. Would run choked even with PTO engaged but eventually die.
I replaced the easy stuff (fuel pump, filter, air filter) and then changed the oil and oil filter. Still having problems so I tested the spark plugs, they were both sparking but one of the coils was reading a short.
Replaced both ignition coils and carburetor.

Now, it’ll turn over but not start. It’s low on fuel but there’s enough that it should start. All connections (electrical, mechanical and fuel lines) are as they should be. I’m scratching my head…

Any suggestions?

Did you adequately space the coil faces from the flywheel or just eyeball it?

 

[Jimmac]

Did you adequately space the coil faces from the flywheel or just eyeball it?

Used a business card as a spacer.

Also the solenoid is new, it clicks.

Someone said that if it struggled to turn over after it was ran, it could be gas getting into the oil? I plan to check the timing as suggested above.

 

[RevB]

Used a business card as a spacer.

Also the solenoid is new, it clicks.

Someone said that if it struggled to turn over after it was ran, it could be gas getting into the oil? I plan to check the timing as suggested above.

Gas in oil is highly unlikely.
Your timing should be fixed but the coil to face is slightly variable. Make sure there is no rubbing of the flywheel against the coils. It'll still run but not the way the parts should be set up. Business card is a good approximation.

 

[RevB]

Gas in oil is highly unlikely.
Your timing should be fixed but the coil to face is slightly variable. Make sure there is no rubbing of the flywheel against the coils. It'll still run but not the way the parts should be set up. Business card is a good approximation.

Also, my 730 water cooled likes choke when cold and no choke when warm. Just depends on the degree of "warmness".
Also had a problem with the original Kawasaki coil wires....they are carbon track "wires" meaning that there is a carbon impregnated string that forms the current carrying member of the cable. In my case the engine, for some time before failure, would have much reduced power and finally just quit firing on one side. The coil itself is fine it's just the cable. After OHMing out the cable and finding it was an open circuit, cut off the plug boot and found that the cable didn't have any string in the center and the carbon just fell out of the hole. Probed and cut the cable back a bit and found the string was there....manufacturing defect. There was enough cable left to attach the boot imaged below, which just screws on to the cable. Now, I'm not saying this is your problem but bad, new parts are known to occur rarely. And some old seemingly reliable parts just quit working. And, no...this is not my favorite failure as some folks seem to have....you just have to follow the clues to your resolution.

Keyways seem to be other's favorite.....unless you whacked something really hard it takes a ton of force to make a key fail.

NGK (8328) LB01EP Spark Plug Cap , Black​

 

[RevB]

Gas in oil is highly unlikely.
Your timing should be fixed but the coil to face is slightly variable. Make sure there is no rubbing of the flywheel against the coils. It'll still run but not the way the parts should be set up. Business card is a good approximation.

When you say "struggled" are you referring to cranking or just once started, running.

 

[Jimmac]

When you say "struggled" are you referring to cranking or just once started, running.

Struggled to start.

BUT… good news. Went to check the battery before checking the timing today and noticed the fuel filter was cracked where the “spout” meets the main barrel. Battery was fine, so I changed the fuel filter and mowed about 2 acres with no issues. Even stopped a couple times and restarted fine hopefully it was just the filter!

 

[Gord Baker]

You should also check your Valve Lash while you are into it. Get new gaskets first.
Glad you are rotating again!