Exmark / Kawasaki charging amps

[LawnWizard]

The current capacity is a function of the strength of the magnets, the speed the magnets pass the coils and the number of turns of wire in the coils .
If the regulator matches the stator it matters not if you have a 1 amp or 100 amp system.
You need to be supplying more amps than the mower draws or eventually the battery will go flat
Running with a flat battery can cause the stators to overheat and char ( not burn ).
Regulators regulate that is why they are called regulators so they fully charge the battery then turn off.
The only difference is a bigger system will be on for less time than a smaller system
Electric clutches draw around 10 A when first switched on then 2 to 3 amps while it is running so you need that + a bit more to recharge the battery
The bigger the system the faster it charges the battery
However the bigger the system then more energy it takes away from the blades
So if say you had a 100A system then the engine would labour for 5 minutes and run slow after you start till the battery is charged & the alternator turns off

Thank you very much for clearing that up.

 

[jabCaudills]

When we start going through a harness to find "hillbilly" changes, and reach a count of two, we consider that the harness is compromised and replace it. (Even at MSRP, the harness can cause so many problems that it is worth replacing. If you can find an Ebay-used harness, look at the reputation score before you buy. We did replace a JD harness with a used harness last spring, and it was a success story. (The owner had passed away leaving a mouse-eaten mess for his wife. We replaced the main harness and fixed several other problems.)

...This way, you have a lead on part numbers, which can help determining which switches also need replaced. And considering NO/NC issues, it's better compare answers between sources and don't hesitate to contact the source for help (particularly if it is a reseller or distributor). (When purchasing replacement switches and similar components, the resellers keep track of equivalent part numbers. Most switches used are made by Delta, and there are standards online, which tell you NO/NC.)

...Schematics should also be consulted, and these should be available online, or a local dealer may point you in the right direction. (We do.)

 

[txmowman]

The part number of the carburetor will tell what hp the engine is. It will have engraved either a 5 digit number likely beginning with 4, or could have the whole number beginning with 1500. (1500x-xxxx).

 

[100 td]

I have an FR691, FR and FS series have a single barrel carby, the FX series come with a two barrel carby with dual stage canister air cleaner.
The 651, 691, 730 are all 726CC engines, roughly 21.5, 23 & 24hp in the FR series, the FX has a slight reduction in hp.
Quite a few years ago I searched for parts variations between the engines as in many engine configurations, a carby difference, a cam difference, a partially blanked intake gasket are the only differences in many engines. The only difference I could find between them (in the single barrel FR 651/21.5 hp, 691/23hp, 730/24hp) was the throttle shaft, all jets/venturis were the same size etc. So I had a look at my carby and found that the butterfly didn't fully open, I expect due to the shaped stop on the end of the shaft, and since that was the only part difference, I took a die grinder to the aluminum stop on the carb to make sure it could go fully open. Did it improve it, well I can say the seat of pants feel said "yes when under heavy load", but we all know the pseudo effect, so no, I don't have definitive proof, but when the load is on, it appears to handle things slightly better, and I work it very hard. This is on a 50" cut Toro. So I expect your 48" with slightly less cut should work with any of these without the need to go the next step to a bigger CC engine, as many 48's come with the 651. YMMV