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I am going to replace the Kawasaki engine on an Exmark Pioneer E series 48" that I bought from a very dishonest POS online. It's a long story but regardless, he posted a pic of the spec tag which showed an FX 730V-CS12. The engine is actually FR651V (according to the air filter cover) and locked up about an hour into the first use. So, my question is: I know that my FX 850s and FX1000's all have 30 AMP charging systems. How do I determine which spec 651 - 730 engine do I order for this mower? Is it a 15 /20 OR 30 AMP? There has already been some hillbilly wiring on the mower (separate kill switch wired in) and the harness has more wires taped off than used but I can sort all that. I would like to return this mower back to original as much as possible with the correct engine (or slightly larger).
The VIN is: PNE651KA482 so I assume it came with a 651 but again, without the proper spec tag, I don't know which spec to order. BTW, I'm a Hustler guy so please forgive my Exmark ignorance.
Thanks in advance for any help / suggestions!

What spec do you currently have?

StarTech said:

What spec do you currently have?

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That's what I don't know. It's a FR651V on the airfilter cover but the spec tag on the engine shroud is FX730V-CS12 (which is what he posted online) which is obviously wrong. (It is not an FX style engine). My pics are too large to post here.

Exmark list the FS730V being used on that model of mower.

According to Emark website IPL lookup the PNE651KA482 came with a FS730V so it possible that someone had changed out the engine to the FX730V but use the engine shroud off another engine as the FR FS and FX 651v, 691v, and 730v all used the same 726cc engine design so it could be possible to swap the engine shrouds.

The thing is the FX, FR and the FS don't use the same air filter cover. Even though the shroud could be changed the air filter cover won't fit the other shroud unless there is some combination that isn't obvious. Looks like the FX uses a heavy duty canister type filter. the FR uses a snap down type air filter cover and the FS uses a twist type air filter cover connector.

Probably going tell me that my 2000 Silverado S1500 8.6" 10 bolt differential don't have a fill plug in the rear cover.

LawnWizard said:

I am going to replace the Kawasaki engine on an Exmark Pioneer E series 48" that I bought from a very dishonest POS online. It's a long story but regardless, he posted a pic of the spec tag which showed an FX 730V-CS12. The engine is actually FR651V (according to the air filter cover) and locked up about an hour into the first use. So, my question is: I know that my FX 850s and FX1000's all have 30 AMP charging systems. How do I determine which spec 651 - 730 engine do I order for this mower? Is it a 15 /20 OR 30 AMP? There has already been some hillbilly wiring on the mower (separate kill switch wired in) and the harness has more wires taped off than used but I can sort all that. I would like to return this mower back to original as much as possible with the correct engine (or slightly larger).
The VIN is: PNE651KA482 so I assume it came with a 651 but again, without the proper spec tag, I don't know which spec to order. BTW, I'm a Hustler guy so please forgive my Exmark ignorance.
Thanks in advance for any help / suggestions!

Click to expand...

I have looked at most all the replacement engines and thought if it had the same spec no. it would have the same crank dimensions but they don't. Looks like the only way to really tell is to measure the crank shaft length and diameter. Most all the FR and FS engines have 15amp charging systems. I would not think that a mower with a FR engine on it would have a charging system larger than 15amps.

Can anyone fully explain what makes a mower a 15A / 20A / 30A mower? I understand the stator / coils and voltage reg on the engine must be correct but is the wiring harness on the mower itself different? What happens if you mount an engine with a 20A setup onto the frame and plug it into the mower that originally came with a 15A? Does the battery not charge correctly? Does it blow up? Is there a risk of a wire harness fire? Just seems like this is more difficult that it really needs to be....

The current capacity is a function of the strength of the magnets, the speed the magnets pass the coils and the number of turns of wire in the coils .
If the regulator matches the stator it matters not if you have a 1 amp or 100 amp system.
You need to be supplying more amps than the mower draws or eventually the battery will go flat
Running with a flat battery can cause the stators to overheat and char ( not burn ).
Regulators regulate that is why they are called regulators so they fully charge the battery then turn off.
The only difference is a bigger system will be on for less time than a smaller system
Electric clutches draw around 10 A when first switched on then 2 to 3 amps while it is running so you need that + a bit more to recharge the battery
The bigger the system the faster it charges the battery
However the bigger the system then more energy it takes away from the blades
So if say you had a 100A system then the engine would labour for 5 minutes and run slow after you start till the battery is charged & the alternator turns off

bertsmobile1 said:

The current capacity is a function of the strength of the magnets, the speed the magnets pass the coils and the number of turns of wire in the coils .
If the regulator matches the stator it matters not if you have a 1 amp or 100 amp system.
You need to be supplying more amps than the mower draws or eventually the battery will go flat
Running with a flat battery can cause the stators to overheat and char ( not burn ).
Regulators regulate that is why they are called regulators so they fully charge the battery then turn off.
The only difference is a bigger system will be on for less time than a smaller system
Electric clutches draw around 10 A when first switched on then 2 to 3 amps while it is running so you need that + a bit more to recharge the battery
The bigger the system the faster it charges the battery
However the bigger the system then more energy it takes away from the blades
So if say you had a 100A system then the engine would labour for 5 minutes and run slow after you start till the battery is charged & the alternator turns off

Click to expand...

Thank you very much for clearing that up.

When we start going through a harness to find "hillbilly" changes, and reach a count of two, we consider that the harness is compromised and replace it. (Even at MSRP, the harness can cause so many problems that it is worth replacing. If you can find an Ebay-used harness, look at the reputation score before you buy. We did replace a JD harness with a used harness last spring, and it was a success story. (The owner had passed away leaving a mouse-eaten mess for his wife. We replaced the main harness and fixed several other problems.)

...This way, you have a lead on part numbers, which can help determining which switches also need replaced. And considering NO/NC issues, it's better compare answers between sources and don't hesitate to contact the source for help (particularly if it is a reseller or distributor). (When purchasing replacement switches and similar components, the resellers keep track of equivalent part numbers. Most switches used are made by Delta, and there are standards online, which tell you NO/NC.)

...Schematics should also be consulted, and these should be available online, or a local dealer may point you in the right direction. (We do.)

The part number of the carburetor will tell what hp the engine is. It will have engraved either a 5 digit number likely beginning with 4, or could have the whole number beginning with 1500. (1500x-xxxx).

I have an FR691, FR and FS series have a single barrel carby, the FX series come with a two barrel carby with dual stage canister air cleaner.
The 651, 691, 730 are all 726CC engines, roughly 21.5, 23 & 24hp in the FR series, the FX has a slight reduction in hp.
Quite a few years ago I searched for parts variations between the engines as in many engine configurations, a carby difference, a cam difference, a partially blanked intake gasket are the only differences in many engines. The only difference I could find between them (in the single barrel FR 651/21.5 hp, 691/23hp, 730/24hp) was the throttle shaft, all jets/venturis were the same size etc. So I had a look at my carby and found that the butterfly didn't fully open, I expect due to the shaped stop on the end of the shaft, and since that was the only part difference, I took a die grinder to the aluminum stop on the carb to make sure it could go fully open. Did it improve it, well I can say the seat of pants feel said "yes when under heavy load", but we all know the pseudo effect, so no, I don't have definitive proof, but when the load is on, it appears to handle things slightly better, and I work it very hard. This is on a 50" cut Toro. So I expect your 48" with slightly less cut should work with any of these without the need to go the next step to a bigger CC engine, as many 48's come with the 651. YMMV