Everide Warrior 60" wont start. Lost.

[AVB]

The solenoid is help with the after fire noise on shut down. Shouldn't have anything to do with the noise during start up.

 

[Chughes2009]

I removed it to eliminate the possibility of it stuck closed, not letting fuel come in. But that obviously isnt the problem since it wont even fire with starting fluid. I might as well put it back on.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Double check that timing key
It is easy to break them when tightening the flywheel bolt
I have done it more than once.
If there is the tiniest piece of debris or rust on either taper they do not lock together.
Lapping them in very fine grinding paste is a regular type job down here.
Also the taper must be dry.
If you put anything on it like grease, anti-sieze or even WD 40 it will not lock so the first time the engine cranks the key will shear.
Some times I have needed to resort to stuffing a cylinder with rope so I can get the bolt tight without shearing the key.
In these cases I use a paint pen to draw a line down the flywheel & across one coil arm with the cylinder at TDC so I know it did not shift when tightening the flywheel bolt.
I have also been caught out with debris in the bottom of the bolt hole so was just compressing the debris & not bearing down on the taper.

magneto coils are also handed so they have a right & wrong way to be fitted.

 

[Chughes2009]

Double check that timing key
It is easy to break them when tightening the flywheel bolt
I have done it more than once.
If there is the tiniest piece of debris or rust on either taper they do not lock together.
Lapping them in very fine grinding paste is a regular type job down here.
Also the taper must be dry.
If you put anything on it like grease, anti-sieze or even WD 40 it will not lock so the first time the engine cranks the key will shear.
Some times I have needed to resort to stuffing a cylinder with rope so I can get the bolt tight without shearing the key.
In these cases I use a paint pen to draw a line down the flywheel & across one coil arm with the cylinder at TDC so I know it did not shift when tightening the flywheel bolt.
I have also been caught out with debris in the bottom of the bolt hole so was just compressing the debris & not bearing down on the taper.

magneto coils are also handed so they have a right & wrong way to be fitted.

Thank you, I will check this. I bought me a jaw puller so it's cake getting the flywheel off now.

 

[bertsmobile1]

They are best removed by placing a pry bar under the flywheel and prying up then with your other hand give the loose nut / bolt a strong "tap"
Pullers have a bad habit of warping flywheels.

 

[AVB]

I removed it to eliminate the possibility of it stuck closed, not letting fuel come in. But that obviously isnt the problem since it wont even fire with starting fluid. I might as well put it back on.

At least you didn't cut the tip off like DYIers do, destroying a perfectly good solenoid.

Don't laugh folks either; new solenoids do fail to retract. I had three brand new Brigg's solenoid that fail to retract straight out of the package. My distributor refused to replace them say Briggs changed their policy and that I had to get a local delaer to warranty them. Well that doesn't work around here as all the I contacted refused to honor the warranty even with proof of purchase from the distributor because I didn't buy the part from them. So I am out over 150 usd for the parts.

The failure of the part was that it would not retract; unless, you bumped the pin. It was as if they 24 vdc versions instead of 12vdc. Anyways the customers mower and one my personal mower have been repaired with used solenoid recovered from blown engines.

And Chughes2009 Reinstalling it would be fine.

They are best removed by placing a pry bar under the flywheel and prying up then with your other hand give the loose nut / bolt a strong "tap"
Pullers have a bad habit of warping flywheels.

Personally I prefer using a harmonic balancer puller, tighten up. If flywheel is stubbornly stuck on the taper then using a brass 2 lb hammer smack the center forcing screw to shock the flywheel off, may need a few re-tightening of the center forcing screw. Anyways it is better than the possible crankcase or under the flywheel components damage. Some the newer engines have might thin crankcases and I have seen the pry bar method to break the crankcases.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I am in the bert camp on tbis one. I can get most flywheels off with the hammer method. I have a half dozen different pullers but the hammer gets most the work. Tappy tap tap.

 

[Chughes2009]

i have not got around to pulling the flywheel yet but i was wondering. is there any safety interlocks that would keep it from firing? The parking brakes have to be engaged for it to turn over and the same goes for the PTO, it must be disengaged or it wont crank. anything else you could think of?

 

[AVB]

You said you have spark. But if you don't then it can be the seat switch [NO] or the seat switch relay but since it is cranking they are not play as both motion control arm are in park. Note this has 12 passing through it so they have more of tendency to go bad.

The following manual has the schematics.
Warrior OM and IPL

 

[Chughes2009]

so i pulled the flywheel. i pulled the stator as well. the key was still intact and the stator showed no signs of damage, just a little dirty. i also put new plugs in it. i went ahead and took some emery cloth to both coils and the coil on the flywheel. still nothing. i did notice though, the tiniest chip was broken off the corner of one of the flywheel magnets. im talking less that 1/4'' though.

I am really stumped with this thing. I'm still leaning towards an ignition/spark problem. correct me if i'm wrong but even if it was extremely out of time or something else was wrong it would do SOMETHING with starting fluid being poured to it. instead it is doing NOTHING. NOTHING. the few times it has backfired im guessing it just filled up with so much fuel it either fired from compression/heat build up or the plug finally fired from being drowned in fuel.

im at the point now where im thinking of just replacing the entire ignition system starting from the stator down to the coils. but the odds of both coils failing at once is probably the same odds of hitting the lottery. i really dont know what else to do with it though.

is there any concrete way to test the coils or the stator?

i checked the wiring schematic but im not the greatest at reading them. would the voltage regulator being bad prevent it from firing? from what i gathered from the schematic, looks like it just controls the charge to the battery