bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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You can download them from Briggs & Stratton for free.
Very handy particularly for putting carbs back together.
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Engine wont prime gas
- Thread starter rigoletto
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Export threadYou can download them from Briggs & Stratton for free.
Very handy particularly for putting carbs back together.
If you feel that you cannot start the engine by manually chocking it with a piece of paper over the air horn opening, then you will have to open up the carb and find out why. You must remember that the priming system on this engine is just an air pump. When you push the bulb, you are forcing air pressure on top of the fuel in the float bowl. This should force fuel up the nozzle into the air horn. You are not pumping fuel, just pushing air which pushes on the fuel. It can only push the fuel so far, because of the small amount of air you are pushing. If this came into the shop, this is what I would do. I would clean and rebuild the carb using the following procedure.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
If my memory is still in tac, the new needle and seat part number should be 398188. You must be sure that the seat is seating at bottom of the inlet opening.
OK, Riv, I did do most of what you suggested above including:
remove carb, flush out all orfices, soak for 24 hrs or so, in solvent, check float , and it had no fuel inside, so reused it. I did not do the new seat, but its passages are clear/free of obstruction. If you feel a new seat is my achiles heel, please let me know. All orfices are freed/clear. Re installed, and as I posted, engine starts easily with your paper in front of carb intake method.
So, what else would cause bowl to have below optimal level of fuel? Mower ran for 10 min or so, with no sputtering, etc. If I have to buy new carb, heck, I will. Im bedoozzled as to why float is too low (apparently) to allow bulb to prime.
Thnaks again, Riv (and other members)
As IL said a swollen seat will throw off the float level. That is why in my procedure I recommend removing the old seat and installing a new one. Also, you didn't say whether you checked the float level. This must be done for this procedure to help you. If you don't set the float level properly you are just wasting your time and money.
First, if you see fuel in the air horn when priming, there is no need to check the float level. Try this trick. Cut a stiff piece of paper or thin cardboard to a size that you can cover the carb throat with the air filter back still in place. Prime unit three times, place paper over carb throat, have someone start the engine. If the engine starts and continues to run when you remove the paper, I'm betting you have old fuel which is not volatile enough to burn at low RPM's.
OK, Gotta say, Im a bit confused. I did the above and engine started with paper in front of carb, but there was no fuel visible before pulling the cord. No way I have old gas. It is fresh.
Also, Another post above said if after taking apart the carb, held upside down, float should be level. I did this and man, I think we're finally getting somewhere, as the float is NOT level!! It is aiming "up", meaning, the hinge end is lower. Gotta be a bad swollen rubber seat, right Riv??
You are correct in suspecting/advising I should replace that rubber. Will buy one locally and try to pop it out with my compressor.......
Thanks.
Carb cleaner has a bad habit of making that seat swell as well as other chemicals. it can also make is crumble is some cases
thanks. good tip. will try to pop it out with compresed air. hope it works........
thanks. good tip. will try to pop it out with compresed air. hope it works........
Sheesh, good thing it's not cutting season!
I popped out the seat, but al the shops nearby are out of business! So, figured Id order it online, but I dont know the exact carb # I have. But, I have these numbers, people:
On the plate above the muffler is : 125K02-0243-E1 (space) 03081157. I believe thats the model # for the Briggs engine. Should that be enough to identify the carburetor? Now, on the carb itself, are #'s: 6150, also 2183. also 8105, also 214122. So many #'s!
If someone here can let me know, I can order a kit.
Thanks