I recently came in possession of a hustler fastrak mower, model number 927368. The mower had a binder engine on it but owner replaced it with a Briggs and Stratton. He got the new motor on but gave up during the wiring process. The engine will run off I jump it. However, I need some help with identifying this wires and where to attach them. I have also included pictures from the old Honda engine.
Engine Wire Help
- Thread starter Demons15
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Pictures below. I have been studying wire diagrams as well.
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Well I see one thing that going to be a problem already The Briggs Dual Circuit stator is not going to handle the electric clutch very long as the clutch pulls over 3 amps and the stator only produces 3 amps max without the additional voltage regulator. And even with the voltage regulator it can only produce up to 5 amps.
Also the mower's wiring colors are not matching the circuit schematic so you need to test each wire for what it does. I would suggest having someone in your that is familiar with repowering mowers to look over your wiring. Some of us are familiar with dealing with wiring that don't what the OEM said they used.
Also the mower's wiring colors are not matching the circuit schematic so you need to test each wire for what it does. I would suggest having someone in your that is familiar with repowering mowers to look over your wiring. Some of us are familiar with dealing with wiring that don't what the OEM said they used.
bertsmobile1
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Well according to the wiring diagram ( very bad one at that ) the honda had a rectified, charge indicator & oil warning light
None of which are on your B & S engine
And as Star has already mentioned you will need to swap that alternator for 20 amp one , because it will have the small magnets in it
So you need a stator with 2 yellow wires for starters
The black wire coming from under the engine cover is AC voltage and you have it hooked up to a ground circuit so you may have blown the magneto if you have cranked the engine like that
None of which are on your B & S engine
And as Star has already mentioned you will need to swap that alternator for 20 amp one , because it will have the small magnets in it
So you need a stator with 2 yellow wires for starters
The black wire coming from under the engine cover is AC voltage and you have it hooked up to a ground circuit so you may have blown the magneto if you have cranked the engine like that
bertsmobile1
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The fuse is blowing because one of the ground wires is connected to a power wire or a power wire is connected to ground
It is difficult when some idiot mutilates the wiring
The 2 wires from the stator are the wires I was talking about
They go into a white plug
The red wire is DC to recharge the battery if the diode ( the bulge in the wire just before the plug ) is working
The black wire next to it is AC for lights only
This is why that stator is called a "Duel Circuit" alternator .
Your mower has no AC circuits
Now some times people put a diode on that wire as well and also run it to the battery in order to use the wrong stator.
This is a fools errand as it burns out the stator and usually the diodes regularly fail as they do not have enough capacity to remove the heat they generate .
Mower engines are self powering
Once you start them they require no power to run other than for the carb solenoid .
So getting it to run is no big deal, I do that all the time on my engine stand with a jumper pack & transistor battery for the solenoid .
The approximate wiring diagram is found in the Owners manual which is a free download from Hustler .
Briggs put out a booklet for several years called "the repower guide " which was all about electrical systems and contains generic diagrams for every possible set up
So download the Hustler manual , it is free and that will show you what the MOWER wires colour code is which hopefully should be the same on the engine side of Mr Incompetents joins
Under is the only one I have that is worth posting
It might not be exactly the same as yours but the colours should be the same
It is difficult when some idiot mutilates the wiring
The 2 wires from the stator are the wires I was talking about
They go into a white plug
The red wire is DC to recharge the battery if the diode ( the bulge in the wire just before the plug ) is working
The black wire next to it is AC for lights only
This is why that stator is called a "Duel Circuit" alternator .
Your mower has no AC circuits
Now some times people put a diode on that wire as well and also run it to the battery in order to use the wrong stator.
This is a fools errand as it burns out the stator and usually the diodes regularly fail as they do not have enough capacity to remove the heat they generate .
Mower engines are self powering
Once you start them they require no power to run other than for the carb solenoid .
So getting it to run is no big deal, I do that all the time on my engine stand with a jumper pack & transistor battery for the solenoid .
The approximate wiring diagram is found in the Owners manual which is a free download from Hustler .
Briggs put out a booklet for several years called "the repower guide " which was all about electrical systems and contains generic diagrams for every possible set up
So download the Hustler manual , it is free and that will show you what the MOWER wires colour code is which hopefully should be the same on the engine side of Mr Incompetents joins
Under is the only one I have that is worth posting
It might not be exactly the same as yours but the colours should be the same
First of all, thanks for all the help! I felt that I may have sounded like I was being argumentative and wanted to make sure that was not the case.
I fully understand that this person has completely messed up the wiring with this mower. I feel like there is a solution but is going to take a lot of studying and testing of the wires.
We have tested all the wires and noted where power is coming from and there is no power.
Another problem we found is that the ignition switch was changed out and the wrong one was installed. When we disconnected the clutch, all relays and other wires, the fuse was still blowing. Starting to really think the wrong ignition switch is also an issue.