primerbulb120
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How do you get $5? I have never seen a carb kit that cheap. I have had so many failed carb rebuilds that I prefer to replace the carbs.
Engine Surges/Falters Under Load
- Thread starter SkiFletch
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Tecumseh #631021 and Briggs #398188 are the two kits I use most often and can be purchased for less than $5. Most of the time you don't need new needles and welch plugs if you know how to clean them, using my procedure. Just spraying with carb cleaner and running a wiring through holes won't do the job.
primerbulb120
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I clean my carbs with an ultrasonic cleaner which I got for $60 at Harbor Freight, and then blow them out with compressed air. I stopped using carb cleaner after it ate a hole through the side of a metal carburetor.
If you have read any of my posts, you will see I also use an ultrasonic cleaner with SimpleGreen as my cleaner. Only time I use the gallon bucket of cleaner to soak a carb, is if they are extremely dirty. Ultrasonic gets turned on every morning when I punchin and is always kept hot. Only have to replace less than 10% of the carbs, 90% come clean after one 8 minute cycle.
These are made in China, there is no high speed adj. They work but are not the same as the original Tecumseh carb. I do not think that they will perform as well or last. I would rebuild. Just my 2 cents worth.
primerbulb120
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These days even the OEM carb could be made in China.
Well, I live in Buffalo, and those of you not living in a hole know what it's been like here the last week... Mercifully I was able to tweak the full throttle adjustment on the bottom and get it to run well at full throttle and full load. And full load wasn't a problem with all this Fing snow. Anyways, the snow is finally removed and we're warming up here with a good week break from it, so I just took the carb off. Lo and behold there is no seat for the needle in it. It's just straight up not there. Can't imagine how I was able to get it to work without one, but whatever. Will be replacing it within the hour. One question though if anyone's still reading this. The rebuild kit came with 4 parts. The main bowl ring, needle, needle seat, and another Oring/washer about 3/8" in outside diameter. Is this for the full throttle jet to seal to the bottom of the bowl?
OK well something's fishy here. This snowblower is used to me, so I'm not even sure if it has an original carb on it. I'm guessing it doesnt because there is no seat and the needle itself has a rubber tip. If I insert the seat into the carb, there isn't enough clearance for the needle to sit in it along with the float. It pushes the float too far "down" in normal operation. There are no real markings on the carb itself, just the numbers 516 on the side near the idle speed adjustment screw. I'm gonna go ahead and re-assemble here cause any way you slice it I don't have the parts to fix it and see if you guys have other advice. I can suffer with it working the way it does, but I'd of course rather fix it the right way.
Sorry i didnt get back to you sooner, its deer hunting season in Wisconsin and didn't have Internet access. You are correct, that carb is no original to that engine. If it has a rubber tip, my suggestion at this time is to put the carb back together, with the original carb pieces you have. Set the float height slightly rich, meaning the side of the float away from the float pin, is a little lower than the pin side. Reassemble and install on unit. Adjust the carb as you did before. Once things slow down for you, would you post a picture of the carb and we'll try to identify it and start this process over to help you.
Well, if anyone's still reading this, somehow I remain alive. Buried under more snow than I've ever seen in my life here in Buffalo and that's saying something. Remember that whole, "once things slow down for you" comment? Yeah, well, Mount SkiFletch here pictured at the end will offer some perspective :frown:. Long story short I've managed to limp the snowblower along. I've had to run it for long periods at half choke. Eventually, it warms up enough so it starts actually choking out, I pull the choke off and quickly dial back the carb rich and I'm able to keep it from faltering and run. It's definitely rich. Can smell the unburnt fuel, muffler gets REALLY hot, and the spark plug has gone full carbon by now (roughly 100 hours). Can barely get it to run with the plug like this, though that shouldn't be surprising.
So first off, enough of this cheap Chinese junk carb, where can I find a quality carb that will work with my engine? Don't care what it costs.
Second, When I pulled the plug, I put a compression tester I borrowed from a friend on the engine just to make sure. Having never used one, and not knowing what I should be seeing, here's what I got. One pull, pressure up to 30 lbs, held there. Two pulls up to 60lbs, stayed put. Three pulls up to 90lbs, stayed there too. Couldn't pull it after that. Is that what I should be seeing for this engine?
Thanks again for the info guys
So first off, enough of this cheap Chinese junk carb, where can I find a quality carb that will work with my engine? Don't care what it costs.
Second, When I pulled the plug, I put a compression tester I borrowed from a friend on the engine just to make sure. Having never used one, and not knowing what I should be seeing, here's what I got. One pull, pressure up to 30 lbs, held there. Two pulls up to 60lbs, stayed put. Three pulls up to 90lbs, stayed there too. Couldn't pull it after that. Is that what I should be seeing for this engine?
Thanks again for the info guys