Your symptoms definitely indicate a lean running engine on startup. When you close the, choke you are increasing the richness of the fuel/air ratio. As the engine warms up, it does not need as rich a mixture, so you open the choke. As I posted earlier, you need to rebuild this carb and after reinstalling it you will have Togo through the adjustment procedure unlined in the manual. As for your cmpression reading, they are a bit low, but if the engine is cold that could be a factor in the low readings. I doubt that the carb on you HM100 is a Chinese knockoff. It was produce long before we had the influx of knockoffs. Post the spec numbers of your engine and I'll find you a new carb.
Engine Surges/Falters Under Load
- Thread starter SkiFletch
- Start date
Thanks for your help Rivets. The reason I'm pretty sure I don't have an original carb is cause I ordered Tecumseh #631021 rebuild kit. When I dis-assemble my carb, it does not have a rubber seat in the needle hole. Instead where the seat should sit is just solid metal and the needle itself has a rubber tip. Every Tecumseh carb rebuild video I've watched all over youtube shows a full metal needle with a rubber seat. Furthermore, the washer that is supposed to fit between the bottom of the bowl and the lower adjustment from the carb kit does not fit the carburetor that I have.
Here's a picture of the code atop the engine. It's off a John Deere TRS 32 whose manual indicates the engine is a Tecumseh Snow King HMSK100. I'll take a pic of the carb I have when I get home tonight, but for now, here's the engine info which I happen to have on my phone
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As to your thoughts regarding the compression, yes, this was done with the engine at atmospheric temp (not warmed at all); which since I've been transported from Buffalo to the planet Hoth this winter (you guys in Wisconsin feel the temperature pain) was around 0 degrees F at time of testing.
Thanks again for your help, it's MUCH appreciated. Off to buy a spark plug to get through another snowstorm this weekend :thumbdown:.
Here's a picture of the code atop the engine. It's off a John Deere TRS 32 whose manual indicates the engine is a Tecumseh Snow King HMSK100. I'll take a pic of the carb I have when I get home tonight, but for now, here's the engine info which I happen to have on my phone
. As to your thoughts regarding the compression, yes, this was done with the engine at atmospheric temp (not warmed at all); which since I've been transported from Buffalo to the planet Hoth this winter (you guys in Wisconsin feel the temperature pain) was around 0 degrees F at time of testing.
Thanks again for your help, it's MUCH appreciated. Off to buy a spark plug to get through another snowstorm this weekend :thumbdown:.
Checked your numbers and have found that carbs are still available. The carb you need is #632370A. You should be able to get it through your local repair shop, if you want to go that route or order it online. Depending on which route you go prices range from $50-$100. Good luck and if you need more help, post back. PS: Temp this morning -16, wind 21 MPH, nice day to work outside.
Thanks for tracking down the part number. So I went out after work and got a replacement spark plug. Tossed it in there, primed it up and gave it a pull. It started running a bit at full choke but then died out on me. Not unexpected since I had it dialed very rich. So I backed the carb needle out a little, re primed and tried pulling. It felt a little stuck. So I gave a harder pull, and it turned over and ripped the starter chord out the engine. It sputtered a bit then spat exhaust gas out the carb for maybe 3 cycles before stopping. Thoughts while I fix the starter chord?
Sounds like the float needle has given it's last gasp, not shutting off properly. Cylinder filled with gas. Check the oil level and make sure the crankcase has not filled with gas. If no gas in the oil, you can run the unit.
Understood. What would I see on the dipstick if it's got gas in it? A strange runny appearance?
Edit. Looks like the kick back broke the spring in the starter cable. It won't wind anymore. Guess I'll be purchasing that too
Edit. Looks like the kick back broke the spring in the starter cable. It won't wind anymore. Guess I'll be purchasing that too
OK, checked the dipstick, looks like good oil only in there, proper level. Of course my pull cable is still not working. Here's where things get fun. My father tells me that he just threw away a snowblower with a Tecumseh engine that had compression problems (things that could have been brought to my attention yesterday!). So what did I do? Go dumpster diving for parts in -30 wind chills. Hah. Cut the belts, removed the 4 mounting bolts and just took out the whole engine. It was mercifully not windy inside the dumpster. Anyways, get it home and find DOH, it's not an HMSK100. It's an HMSK90 . The recoil does not fit in the fitting on the flywheel of my engine. And I don't have a pipe wrench big enough to grab the fitting to loosen them and swap. So I'm back to square one leaving me with two questions:
First, any chance anybody knows the part number for the recoil on my engine? I'll call around locally and see what I can find tomorrow and pray someone has one. Cause it's gonna snow again sat night and I REALLY don't want to try and shovel and pick snow up 7' over Mt Skifletch.
Second, would any of the parts from this HMSK90 fit on my 100? Or, in a crazy option, could I just swap engines on the snowblower assuming I can get this other one to run? Go full on franken snowblower
Thanks for all your help
. The recoil does not fit in the fitting on the flywheel of my engine. And I don't have a pipe wrench big enough to grab the fitting to loosen them and swap. So I'm back to square one leaving me with two questions:First, any chance anybody knows the part number for the recoil on my engine? I'll call around locally and see what I can find tomorrow and pray someone has one. Cause it's gonna snow again sat night and I REALLY don't want to try and shovel and pick snow up 7' over Mt Skifletch.
Second, would any of the parts from this HMSK90 fit on my 100? Or, in a crazy option, could I just swap engines on the snowblower assuming I can get this other one to run? Go full on franken snowblower
Thanks for all your help
Part number for starter is 590689B. Sorry to say, but there are parts that will interchange between the two engines, although not any of the ones you need. Local shop may have a used starter around, I would check with them before ordering.
Thanks Rivets. I was unable to find one locally but did manage to repair it myself by removing the pin, taking it apart, re attaching the spring, re winding and re assembling. Blower ran much better with a new spark plug but is still back firing out the carb especially on startup. Looks like the weather is breaking here soon and I can try a new carb on it. Praying there isn't an exhaust valve or cam problem that's contributing
So I just had an epiphany. What if the reason it's ripping the handle out of my grasp when starting is because the flywheel key is messed up? Would that cause the problem? Furthermore, anybody know the part number for the flywheel key?