ENGINE OIL

[gfp55]

[/B]
Maybe take your own advice ya.
There is none of the engine brands that are sold new with synthetic oil in the crank case.
All of them state in their manual not to use synthetic for the first 3 oil changes.

The best way to prolong engine life and extend oil life is to install a bypass spinner filter.

You most be talking about small engines, I'm talking about all MY engines, small or large, cars,trucks,tractors(small&large). All factory filters are bypass filters. Do you know why they are called bypass filters?

 

[DSepe]

Haven't done 3000 mile oil changes ever, always 5k. 1995 Suburban 158k miles 1999 Ford Crown Victoria 166k miles 2000 Plymouth(lol) Van 223k miles, I will admit I got this off my uncle be he still did 5k oil changes...all on conventional oil. 2007 Jetta 90k synthetic change every 10k with Mobil One and this is manufacturers recommendation. So bash me for not doing 3k changes but I bet my cars/trucks outlasted most other peoples.

P.S Note I said MOST people nobody on this forum should think it's a personal attack.

 

[gfp55]

Haven't done 3000 mile oil changes ever, always 5k. 1995 Suburban 158k miles 1999 Ford Crown Victoria 166k miles 2000 Plymouth(lol) Van 223k miles, I will admit I got this off my uncle be he still did 5k oil changes...all on conventional oil. 2007 Jetta 90k synthetic change every 10k with Mobil One and this is manufacturers recommendation. So bash me for not doing 3k changes but I bet my cars/trucks outlasted most other peoples.

P.S Note I said MOST people nobody on this forum should think it's a personal attack.

In my cars/trucks 7,500 miles, oil&filter.

 

[Bison]

You most be talking about small engines, I'm talking about all MY engines, small or large, cars,trucks,tractors(small&large). All factory filters are bypass filters. Do you know why they are called bypass filters?

I am talking about bigger engines like truck and tractors,
I have a host of them, 7 tractors 3 loaders and 5 trucks.(all of them diesels 100 hp or better)
Yes i know about the bypass feature of a lot of filters but not all of them have it, sometimes the by pass is incorporated in the filter base in the block like on my GM 6.5 diesels.

I have 2 older Belarus tractors with just a factory spinner flter on the engine(do you know what a spinner filter is?)and no other cartridge or spin on filter.
The oil in these two engines never gets black no matter if the same oil is left in there for 500 hrs.

 

[gfp55]

[/B]
Maybe take your own advice ya.
There is none of the engine brands that are sold new with synthetic oil in the crank case.
All of them state in their manual not to use synthetic for the first 3 oil changes.

The best way to prolong engine life and extend oil life is to install a bypass spinner filter.

I am talking about bigger engines like truck and tractors,
I have a host of them, 7 tractors 3 loaders and 5 trucks.(all of them diesels 100 hp or better)
Yes i know about the bypass feature of a lot of filters but not all of them have it, sometimes the by pass is incorporated in the filter base in the block like on my GM 6.5 diesels.

I have 2 older Belarus tractors with just a factory spinner flter on the engine(do you know what a spinner filter is?)and no other cartridge or spin on filter.
The oil in these two engines never gets black no matter if the same oil is left in there for 500 hrs.

....Your post 171867;... I know I'm old, but I bought a 1991 GMC Syclone new and it had full synthetic in the crank case, 1993 Typhoon same thing, 1994 Vett same thing plus others over the years. All bought new and they came with synthetic oil in the crank case and said it in the owners manuals. They have been putting full synthetic oil in new engines for a long time now.....Your post 171950;.... As I stated before I always use factory brand filters and they all have bypasses and anti-backflow check valves that a lot of cheapy filters do not have. Bypass filters have a valve that lets oil bypass the filter media if its plugged so the engine is not starved of oil. Spinner filters use threads to mount the filter to the engine unlike a cartridge filter which a lot of makers are changing to.

 

[Nwatson99]

This topic has got me to thinking and researching now.
I have found two discrepancies now about the oil my engine is suppose to run.

1. Direct from JD owners manual:
Use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes.
John Deere TURF-GARD is preferred:

The following oils are also recommended:
John Deere Plus-4
John Deere Plus-50 II

2. Here is the twist, Kawasaki oil recommendation for my engine is:
Kawasaki GENUINE PART K-Tech 10W-30 Engine Oil Quart #99969-6081
Now this oil is Synthetic Blend

So which manual and oil would you guys follow, JD or Kawasaki?

Normally I only follow the equipment manual, but where this is coming from two OEM manuals now I am starting to question and wonder if I should switch to Synthetic?

 

[DSepe]

This topic has got me to thinking and researching now. I have found two discrepancies now about the oil my engine is suppose to run. 1. Direct from JD owners manual: Use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes. John Deere TURF-GARD is preferred: The following oils are also recommended: John Deere Plus-4 John Deere Plus-50 II 2. Here is the twist, Kawasaki oil recommendation for my engine is: Kawasaki GENUINE PART K-Tech 10W-30 Engine Oil Quart #99969-6081 Now this oil is Synthetic Blend So which manual and oil would you guys follow, JD or Kawasaki?

Interesting find...I guess Kawasaki?

 

[Nwatson99]

Interesting find...I guess Kawasaki?

I am also wondering is the 8 hr break in oil also Synthetic since I am cannot find anything at all about that?

 

[gfp55]

This topic has got me to thinking and researching now.
I have found two discrepancies now about the oil my engine is suppose to run.

1. Direct from JD owners manual:
Use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes.
John Deere TURF-GARD is preferred:

The following oils are also recommended:
John Deere Plus-4
John Deere Plus-50 II

2. Here is the twist, Kawasaki oil recommendation for my engine is:
Kawasaki GENUINE PART K-Tech 10W-30 Engine Oil Quart #99969-6081
Now this oil is Synthetic Blend

So which manual and oil would you guys follow, JD or Kawasaki?

Normally I only follow the equipment manual, but where this is coming from two OEM manuals now I am starting to question and wonder if I should switch to Synthetic?

I'd go by the Kawasaki recommendation, but that's just me.

 

[Bison]

....Your post 171867;... I know I'm old, but I bought a 1991 GMC Syclone new and it had full synthetic in the crank case, 1993 Typhoon same thing, 1994 Vett same thing plus others over the years. All bought new and they came with synthetic oil in the crank case and said it in the owners manuals. They have been putting full synthetic oil in new engines for a long time now.....Your post 171950;.... As I stated before I always use factory brand filters and they all have bypasses and anti-backflow check valves that a lot of cheapy filters do not have. Bypass filters have a valve that lets oil bypass the filter media if its plugged so the engine is not starved of oil. Spinner filters use threads to mount the filter to the engine unlike a cartridge filter which a lot of makers are changing to.

I have no use for or do use gas engines(save the lawn tractor and some small one bangers) therefore i don't keep up as to what oil they use nowadays.
I am mainly into diesels.
FYI , SPIN ON filters and SPINNER filters are two whole different animals.
Spin on filters are as you are correct the cans with the treads as used on about any engine since they got away from the cartridge type many years ago.

This is a spinner oil filter.
Spinner II